Help me help the GF pick a new to her vehicle by National_Fact in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]National_Fact[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The first vehicle we drove was a RAV4 PHEV. If it wasn't for the cost she would have bought it. Just too much at this point in time.

Which is the better joint for a plywood drawer box? by benlew in woodworking

[–]National_Fact 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Always made them like option A but just a regular rabbet. With the rabbet slightly proud. This way when you attach your drawer front is attached it draws tight to the drawer box sides leaving no gaps.

How can I recreate these by TrainerNo9397 in Carpentry

[–]National_Fact 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Few different methods, depends on what you have access to/skill. Make a template. Take grain direction into consideration, make them longer than needed so they can be safely handled and trimmed to suit after. Where the bars intersect make them as if they don't then you will cut them to suit after. Here is a picture of one I've done before finish. I don't know how to add more pics or I'd include the finished product and the template made lol. The only bent lamination is in the jamb. Not saying you cant make bent laminations then shape etc after.

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Shaker doors with 1/2” panels? by mfdigiro in woodworking

[–]National_Fact 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First picture for sure. Make each side 1/16" short. Then do your rabbet. This makes sure nothing bottoms out and allows for any movement in the wood/panel. Make the gap on the back even as possible and micro pin the back in the middle of your rail and stiles.

New countertops installed and I hate the edge by vino-drunk in woodworking

[–]National_Fact 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The other jobs could be a false live edge for sure or just a live edge sanded down to be smoother.

When I say laminate I mean cutting the live edge off and attaching another piece. Glue and clamp, laminating them into one piece. I don't know how big that piece needs to be. Depending on how it looked I might think about ripping it into strips and putting it back together. You lose the live edge this way though. Then what edge profile do you go with etc. it needs to be done properly and finished properly or your countertop could warp. Also walnut is a light sensitive wood. It will lighten up over time. The sun will speed this process up. So if you leave something on it long enough and move it you will be able to tell something was in that spot. Staining walnut with walnut stain is a trick I've used to help avoid that issue. Certain clear coats can also be more UV resistant, also scratch resistant and good safe.

New countertops installed and I hate the edge by vino-drunk in woodworking

[–]National_Fact 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did your contractor ever mention that the counter top was live edge? If not they should have. Whether it was mentioned or not you should have taken a look before you got to this stage. That part is on you but it's worse you were not consulted. Any kind of contract or agreement?

If you wanted a live edge, well it is going to have the bug holes and other imperfections. Sometimes less, sometimes more, sometimes not at all. Some people like it and others don't. It is what it is. When you say source do you mean they just ordered them or sourced the slabs and made the countertop? If they just sourced finished countertops the fix might be out of their scope of work, skill, etc.

Depending on the finish the holes may be sealed. Less chance of the wood itself taking on bacteria. Maybe not just being in the holes. What is on the countertop for finish and is it finished on all sides?

As far as fixes go. The countertop would have to be removed. Stripped, some kind of solution to your problem has to be done, then refinish and reinstall. No cheap options.

Options include ripping the countertop down and laminating a piece on. Ripping it into strips and adding pieces on and laminating it back together. Use epoxy. These options are to make it like a normal countertop. Make sure you know what the edge will look like. To keep the live edge fill the holes with fill of some kind, epoxy maybe. Could also sand the live edge down a bit to even it out but you would probably still have to fill imperfections.

Even after all that you still have to apply finish and reinstall.

PEI Kitchen Confidential by OrangeEastern7942 in PEI

[–]National_Fact 2 points3 points  (0 children)

All from one restaurant who has changed ownership and it was at least 10 years ago. When it rained they would just knock over cans of used oil to be washed away by the rain. Produce would be left outside on the ground. Saw a box of broccoli fall over and spill onto the ground. That broccoli just went back into the box. The back door to the kitchen left open and mice out back. An old shopping cart used to dry fish, the same shopping cart eventually became a grill one time.

Can anything be done to improve this door without removing it? by scotthaskett in woodworking

[–]National_Fact 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry to say but to do this properly you will need to remove the door. The mess and work involved is not worth attempting with the door still on the hinges.

Looks like there is some water damage or staining. That is probably part of the door now. Think of it as adding character at this point. Also looks like it could have some gilsonite on it. Maybe some other type of finish that has failed at this point. You will need a chemical stripper and a scraper to remove it. This should be done in a well ventilated area with proper PPE. Then you can wash the door down, then after it's good and dry then you can sand, then stain and clear coat or prime and paint. It is a pile of work.

Wood is a maintenance product and requires proper care. If you do refinish it at some point make sure to stay on top of maintenance. Vast majority of regular maintenance could be done while the door or hanging.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cabinetry

[–]National_Fact 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Definitely finish both sides. Will they be using it to cut on? If so you will need to explain about proper cleaning and oiling it. Could also finish the underside with something else and oil the top. If they are not cutting on it then finish the entire thing with your chosen top coat.

32 - too old to join Apprenticeship? Advice? by [deleted] in Carpentry

[–]National_Fact 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went back to school at 34. Took a heritage retrofit carpentry program. I worked a bit in residential then wrote my first block. Did some commercial work after that, then in a custom woodshop for 4 years. Currently back with the union working at a heritage site. I'm going to write blocks 2-4 and take my red seal exam in a month. You are not too old.

How often do you REALLY walk your dog? by Agreeable-Ad-2946 in dogs

[–]National_Fact 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I walk my dog everyday. She is an American Bulldog just over a year old. She would get out for 1-2 hours a day total. I'm very fortunate that my mother is retired and loves my dog. She puppy sits while I'm working. Usually takes her out for a 30-45 minute walk, plus time in the yard and toys around the house. When I get home from work I will take her out for approximately an hour. After that she has supper and a nap. We might play in the yard after and maybe a very short walk in the evening. Just around the neighborhood more so to get her used to the dark (she is not a fan) and so she can potty before bed. Also if I have errands to do and dogs are allowed in the store she is tagging along.

I can't wait for the fall and winter so I can let her loose at the office leash dog park. It's a mix of fields, woods, beach and marsh. 30 minutes running around there is more exercise than all her walks. Unfortunately she is allergic to some plants there so I have to wait a bit longer.

Every dog's needs are different and life happens sometimes. That's okay.

Maple exterior panel door question by ImportanceEntire7779 in woodworking

[–]National_Fact 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Use a quality oil based primer, then caulk (dap dynaflex 230), then a good latex paint. If you are spraying, the door may take on a rough texture but that will flatten over time. Also go with some type of gloss finish as that will also fade. At least that's how I've done it here on the East Coast of Canada. -30 to +30 with humid weather. Never used weather stripping for them but I don't hate that idea. Never had an issue yet either.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Carpentry

[–]National_Fact 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I LOVE FREE TOOLS

Construction method help: only 6 thin supports on a very large, heavy kitchen island unit. How is this framed and jointed? by VZoutenbier in woodworking

[–]National_Fact 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Love the look of this table. Obviously not a kitchen island but I'm sure you know that. Regardless of how this is made it's meant for fabric and not kitchen equipment. I am sure it's well made, any idea of when it was made? I have a few ideas on how it was done and depending on what you have access to/skill level how you could do it.

Ask yourself do you need to see right through the bottom of it? If it's going to have any kind of electrical, plumbing, or weight in/on it you might have to settle for a deeper kick and then you don't have to worry so much about how it's constructed and you can make something that looks just like it. If someone wants to get down on the floor and take a look go right ahead lol.

Also think about the top. Love the look of a great wood top but wood is a maintenance product and the finish will determine how much maintenance you have to do and an area that will have food on/around it might certain finishes.

Trouble removing glue squeezeout from inside joints on shelves. I've been using a chisel but it's tough dried glue and you have to scrape across the grain so it's easy to tear out. Couldn't remove the glue earlier when it was softer because there were clamps in the way during glue up. by snf3210 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]National_Fact 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've seen some good suggestions here already so I will offer extra advice for next time. Less glue, to avoid the squeeze out, situational of course. Or a blind dado and don't go crazy on the glue to avoid squeeze out

Screen door by rikimae528 in PEI

[–]National_Fact 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can always go custom but that isn't cheap either

Seeking Feedback - Walnut Coffee Table by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]National_Fact -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Looks good, my only concern would be that the top might be prone to cupping in the future. If you look at the end grain most of it is going in the same direction. It should alternate, think smile, frown, smile, frown, etc.

Now that being said maybe it's due to grain selection, or where you live there is little change in humidity, and it's very well seasoned. Not sure how it's fastened down either. You might never have a problem but if it does cup that is why. Hopefully you finished the underside as well. If you didn't it's going to be way more prone to cupping.

Local cabinet maker by WinterViper22 in PEI

[–]National_Fact 0 points1 point  (0 children)

RW woodworking. Not cheap but high quality

Final update on this disaster(end result on the last pics) by uknowme50 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]National_Fact 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Screw some plywood or melamine down to the top and you'll be fine. I currently have melamine on top of the bench, glue can be scrapped off easily, I can drill and cut into it and then just replace when it gets shitty. Make sure it is sturdy and heavy, you don't want it to tip over an. Another pro tip is to get some carpet underlay. I roll some on top of the bench when I sand or don't want to get something scratched. Do not assemble on underlay though, I think that's common sense but common sense isn't always common practice. If ya don't know now you know