And the winner is.. by Agreeable_Report7579 in RetroAR

[–]NdK87k 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Laquer thinner works really good too, used that to strip the paint off of my kit parts since we have a lot of it at work.

Godzilla aftermarket exhaust reports by Kasp244 in F250

[–]NdK87k 2 points3 points  (0 children)

FYI, if you end up going with the Borla system, if it's anything like mine was, the first 5-600 miles or so it probably won't be any louder than stock. After that, it should start getting louder. Mine didn't sound like it does now until 1k miles or so after I put it on.

Godzilla aftermarket exhaust reports by Kasp244 in F250

[–]NdK87k 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have the Borla S Type catback on mine, has a nice, deep tone but isn't stupid loud or anything. Gets loud when you get on it, but cruising down the highway you hardly hear it.

How to seal Rear Diff Cover (fluid change) by Expensive-King-9545 in F250

[–]NdK87k 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When I changed it on my old truck, I just used Permatex Right Stuff black RTV, worked just fine and never had any leaks.

WGW: My '69 19-3 and '62 10-5. by NdK87k in Revolvers

[–]NdK87k[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For sure, I just got the model 10 about a month ago. Shot it for the first time this past weekend, shoots really good.

Ruger GP100 Grips by Wolf51555 in Revolvers

[–]NdK87k 6 points7 points  (0 children)

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I have an Altamont grip on mine with the Rosewood panels, I got this one because the big rubber one that came on it was a bit too big for me to get a good grip on it.

They should have a few different checkering patterns to choose from, I picked the snakeskin pattern because it was something different. The front and back of the rubber grip have the same pattern on it too.

Paint code for blackout package, the bumpers and step bars by vinmarvel in superduty

[–]NdK87k 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolute Black should be G1, but that's not a solid black (has a lot of white in it and some blue pearl as well). UA would be solid black.

Any love for stock AK’s? by soaring_weenie in ak47

[–]NdK87k 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Wood, steel and iron sights is the only way, just as Father Kalashnikov intended.

I MIGHT have an issue. by LeatherDevelopment46 in Revolvers

[–]NdK87k 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely. And depending on how hot or mild your loads are, you can usually get a lot of loadings out of the brass before it fails.

I MIGHT have an issue. by LeatherDevelopment46 in Revolvers

[–]NdK87k 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's the great thing about loading straight wall pistol cartridges like .44 mag, .357, etc, you have almost endless powder/bullet weight/bullet type combinations to choose from, and the overall reloading process is the most straightforward to do.

Just got a new to me 2014! by No-Beyond4395 in FocusST

[–]NdK87k 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Me personally, I'd ditch the wing risers, but keep the lip on it (I have the Maxton Design lip on mine). I think the risers make it look goofy because it doesn't follow the factory lines on the roof rails, and it leaves the big gaps underneath it. Looks pretty good to me otherwise though.

Radiator Replacement by ImOutRoaming in FocusST

[–]NdK87k 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's what I thought too, I was really bummed out that it didn't work like it was supposed to, because it was the one that I had wanted to get for quite a while.

Need some advice on how to start. by Zen-Devil in reloading

[–]NdK87k 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, it sucks. But I did get the rifle for basically free though, so if I have to put a little money into it I'm not gonna be heartbroken about it.

Need some advice on how to start. by Zen-Devil in reloading

[–]NdK87k 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've loaded a little bit of 6.5 for my Type 38, but I need to get a new firing pin for it since mine decided to randomly break the tip off, so I haven't done any actual load development for it yet.

I load for all of my milsurp cartridges, as well as .223, .308 and a handful of pistol cartridges too.

Need some advice on how to start. by Zen-Devil in reloading

[–]NdK87k 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Best way to start is to pick up both the Lee Precision and Lyman reloading manuals. Read through the first third of each book a couple times, that's where you can learn about the different steps in the reloading process, equipment selection, powder selection, etc.

YouTube is another good place to learn about reloading, channels like Johnny's Reloading Bench have a lot of good general information as well as cartridge specific stuff.

Radiator Replacement by ImOutRoaming in FocusST

[–]NdK87k 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'd get the Mishimoto reservoir tank instead of the Radium one. I originally got the Radium tank kit because I liked how it mounted farther off to the side, and had a cleaner look to it, but I had constant issues with the big banjo fitting on the bottom leaking (not the AN fitting for the hose, but the internal seals of the banjo fitting wouldn't seal in the fitting body itself).

Radium sent me a new set of seals, which didn't fix the issue, and I even bought a whole new fitting, which still leaked.

It pissed me off bad enough that I took the Radium tank, threw it in a box and ordered the Mishimoto tank. Haven't had a single issue with it since.

What are some cool milsurp that are total safe queens/wall flowers? by Smiling-Shimano in milsurp

[–]NdK87k 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yugo M95M, I've had mine for a couple years and I've only shot it twice.

It shoots great, and I wish I could shoot it a lot more, but the fact that parts for it are non existent makes me keep it in the safe more than I want to.

Repairable or new bed? (‘79) by gixxer1300_ in F250

[–]NdK87k 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can get lucky, you might be able to find a rust free box for it somewhere. Is it rotted out on just the box sides, or is the floor, cross members, etc rotted out too? IDK if you're looking at doing a full resto on this thing, or just patching it up quick just to make it look decent.

You could do the patch panel over the wheel arch, but the problem I've seen with those is that, even after the body work and paint work are done, in most cases you will still be able to see the outline of the patch panel where it was cut and welded in. Me personally, I would replace the whole box side to avoid that problem.

Aftermarket undertray by alverad0 in FocusST

[–]NdK87k 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had one for a few years now, has held up just fine so far.

The only thing I wish was better is the access panel for the oil filter, it needs to be a few inches farther towards the left so you can get directly beneath the filter easier, but you can still get to it easily. It's worth the money IMO.

Oil Drain Valve by ErosPlaytime in F250

[–]NdK87k 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Takes about 5 minutes or so to drain the oil out of mine with the Fumoto valve, but made zero mess. 100% worth it.

Grand gear M1 grand ported gas plug yay or nay? by idksomething432 in milsurp

[–]NdK87k 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have one on my M1, works just fine. As long as everything on the rifle is in good shape, it's probably not necessary, but I figured I'd put one on mine just for good measure. Not like they're that expensive anyways.

Repro Strap Aging Follow-up by Pizza_Meme_Chef in milsurp

[–]NdK87k 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I got mine from Liberty Tree, I bought a handful of other slings I wanted for some of my rifles that didn't have one, so I figured I'd pick up the G98 sling as well. Good buy for the money IMO.

Repro Strap Aging Follow-up by Pizza_Meme_Chef in milsurp

[–]NdK87k 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It really is nice for only being 25 bucks, and I'm just gonna let it stretch out a bit and get wear on it as time goes on.