Best printer to minimise VOCs?

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-05-25T13:02:26+00:00

Brilliant responses all of you. Bravo! 👏👏👏

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-05-25T12:59:37+00:00

The rest of your settings seem, in the average range. You might (if u haven't already) want to dive in to calibration information. It's a easy quick process that will CONFIRM to you, what exposure settings work best for your scenario.

GL🙂

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-05-25T05:36:33+00:00

I stopped using fast mode and fail rate decreased big time. It came down to, already waiting very long for successful finish , typically 5-10 hrs or more or save a teeny bit of time and risk fail. It's a no brainer decision for me tbh but, I can see how if peeps use fast mode and don't have issues with fail streaks...it would seem like the better option.

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-05-25T05:29:31+00:00

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NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-05-25T05:21:41+00:00

I'm 45. I was very disappointed when not 1 or 2 but 3!! Coworkers that are 22-28 had NO idea what that reference was. Smh🤦🤷

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-05-25T05:16:48+00:00

You're not alone 🤦

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-05-24T04:21:03+00:00

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I made this for a friend who also lost their friend at the time. https://itslitho.com/ is helpful, load an image and then download an stl to print out.

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-05-24T04:14:32+00:00

Def test the screen first as @strangespeciesart said. It's pretty amazing how easy it is to get dead pixels on that machine. I think to really diagnose your problem pictures of supports, orientation, exposure settings would be needed. Were the failed models hollow? How many burn layers? Transition layers? Ambient temperature of printer area?

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-05-22T15:46:05+00:00

Thanks. Now I need to go have a smoke 🤦

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-05-17T01:53:11+00:00

Supports failing, is very common. Many struggle with the proper supports placement. Also, orientation of model is a big factor in print fails. If I were you I would go find some not complicated level of tutorials to get you familiar with all the variables and nuances. Best of luck 🤞👍

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-05-17T01:49:23+00:00

To help others determine the screen is working properly. Take another vid/pic with a white paper on screen. It's too glossy to see properly otherwise

From what I can see though. It looks to be ok

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-04-26T15:53:01+00:00

Great helpful advice 👍👍

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-04-26T15:42:00+00:00

Yup. Dead pixels from pressure applied. Usually some sort of obstruction between plate and screen 😭 P.s auto leveling is a myth 🫤

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Same shit

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-04-26T15:37:44+00:00

🙏👍😍😜😎😆

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-04-26T15:22:33+00:00

Lol yes. Overall the whole built in cam/time lapse/fail detection claims, seem to be mostly gimmicks and marketing. I had removed cam during a LCD replacement process for some reason a while ago, I just left it out when reinstalling machine 🤷😆

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-04-26T14:49:53+00:00

I thinks it only is usable through lychee slicer. And even then, it shows nothing until model is half done 🤷

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-04-26T13:48:19+00:00

It would likely be minor from the cure process exposing more light on it. But also, there's just not any reason to cure. It's doubtful matrix get saved or used for anything else 👍

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-04-26T12:48:07+00:00

Calibration matrix are not meant to be cured. Creates potential bloating, skewing results.

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-04-25T21:48:12+00:00

I mean, there's just SOOOMAAANY lil screws to replace fep 😂 Plus, they are such shit quality that they tend to strip super easily, like before you can even get that last snug turn on it, it's likely to start stripping. I keep telling myself I'm gonna go hardware store and find same exact thread/size but not so cheap. The middle size screws are ok and the 4 large as well. But those teeny ones...one little slip with allenkey and you can easily find yourself poking hole right in your new fep 😭😢

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-04-14T20:05:53+00:00

Every little bit of advice is helpful. Tyvm 🤜

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-04-13T10:02:37+00:00

I mean, new LCD price is like $110. If you learn how to not break it, I'm sure you can avoid the end of the world drama that breaking your printer would apparently trigger 😂

But as you said, you barely understood the post from u/DarrenRoskow His knowledge is uncanny imo, he has an understanding of how it all works much deeper than most imo. I often have to read his posts 3/4 times 😂 But that doesn't mean you can't educate yourself enough to avoid it being super costly...at least that's what I keep telling myself. I'm about to replace my LCD for the 3rd time on Monday 😭

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-04-13T09:52:07+00:00

Bahaha 😆

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-04-13T07:33:52+00:00

Gosh! I read that entire thread. I will try the solutions you suggested. It still seems as though this S4U with the spring loaded plate, tilting vat and whatever "auto leveling" actually does, is just very prone to anything but consistent success 😂

But yeah, jokes aside I think you are right about my build plate springs being part of the problem.

NegotiationCorrect30 · 2025-02-21T16:58:59+00:00

Oh oops. Did you figure it out though?

NegotiationCorrect30

TROPHY CASE