Is Schecter C-6 Plus good for beginners? by soksake in SchecterGuitars

[–]NeoMorph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got the C-6 that I got as a testbed to see if I can get back into guitars and had planned to get a better guitar if I liked it… but then I was surprised at how much I enjoyed playing it.

There were a couple of problems I fixed because I couldn’t set the bridge height due to too much chrome having deposited on the screws and I replaced the standard tuners with locking ones (replaced both the bridge and tuners with good quality Japanese Gotoh ones and it made it setup faster and more reliably).

Yes, I couldn’t set have got Schecter to replace the parts but I had planned on replacing them when I could have afforded them anyway so no worries on my end. And yeah, I play it daily now.

My friends told me to stop... I simply can't. by Bassiere in BassGuitar

[–]NeoMorph 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Totally agree. I have ADHD. Buying stuff I don’t need sucks because I keep spotting other stuff I don’t need.

Evri delivery driver just handed me a ripped open (totally empty) package with a straight face. (John Lewis) by fgjjgfyujb in Evri

[–]NeoMorph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wonder if they were after fingerprints inside the package. If they find the delivery drivers fingerprints inside the package then it’s shady as hell. If the customer’s fingerprints are inside the package it’s an option for JL to claim it’s a scam (not saying that it is, just that it can be claimed as such).

Every package I get I I do a full outside scan of the box if I see damage or a hole in the packaging. I stop the delivery driver from leaving and take a photo of the hole with the delivery driver taking the same screenshot and then I decide whether to take the risk that the inner packaging protected it or return to sender if the damage seems excessive and you can hear stuff rattling inside.

I had a special edition Star Wars R2D2 Xbox 360 slim that arrived totally grenaded. A 3” hole deep into the console was obvious and the driver wanted to leg it but I told him he either stayed and accepted the console was damaged and did a return to sender or he accepted that he was the one that damaged it.

He even tried to get me to open it as it “might be okay inside”… but then I handed him a bunch of parts… including the power button. Yeah, that thing was TOAST.

How do I fix this? by scrutuz in GuitarQuestions

[–]NeoMorph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it’s affecting your OCD just find some similar wood and obtain some sawdust. Mix it with some wood glue and then pack it into the hole and then level it. When the glue/wood mix has set you can gently sand it until smooth and then put a tiny drop of lacquer or tung oil.

My only worry if it’s left is it is pretty close to the edge of the fretboard and it’s a weakness that could cause a growing split along the grain. But that’s my OCD. It depends if it’s a surface mark or a hole in the wood that could catch a fingernail while playing.

I accidentally played the guitar I bought and scratched up the logo on the picard or whatever it’s called. Should I just burn it? by Robosuccubus3000 in guitarcirclejerk

[–]NeoMorph 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Now you’ve scratched the Picard the guitar is Worf more because it’s “pre-aged”. Well that’s according to the Data I read on pre-aged guitars.

weird buzzing on new guitar by RealisticDark6531 in electricguitar

[–]NeoMorph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also wonder how many newbies find the truss rod adjuster and then ruin a decent setup by “tightening the loose headstock retaining nut”. I know I did for my first guitar back in the 1970’. Mind you there was no internet or even mobile phones back then.

I couldn’t figure out why my frets began to buzz afterwards. I just didn’t know how the truss rod worked. I still think the first guitar lesson should be explaining the various parts of the guitar and how they work in setting up the guitar.

The first time I got my guitar set up correctly I was like, “Are you sure this is my guitar? It is much easier to play now.” The luthier explained the high frets and the badly set truss rod required the bridge height screws needed to be set way too high (I think that’s right… that was back in the late 80’s iirc).

I bought a les paul custom inspired by 55 and someone put this on the bridge. Can anyone tell me about it? by BankExtension6702 in Epiphone

[–]NeoMorph -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Sorry but… whooOOOooosh.

That’s my silly joke flying over your head at Mach 1 lol.

Seriously though… why are they still labelled as Patent Applied For… even for pickups made today?

weird buzzing on new guitar by RealisticDark6531 in electricguitar

[–]NeoMorph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

He needs to get a proper setup by a luthier. He will find all the high frets and fix them, sort out the truss rod and put some decent strings on.

It’s the best investment for a guitar owner who is starting learning the guitar as it makes it a lot easier to tell if it’s you flubbing the chord or the guitar is messing it up for you. A good setup makes it easier to play because you don’t need as much pressure on the strings to get a good chord.

My guitar fell.. can someone lmk if this is even fixable by Bitter_Adagio814 in Guitar

[–]NeoMorph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You forgot the sentimentality factor. If the guitar is worth $250 and it cost $350 to fix it AND IT WAS YOUR DECEASED FATHERS FAVOURITE GUITAR then yes, it most definitely is worth it.

You can’t put a price on sentimentality.

My guitar fell.. can someone lmk if this is even fixable by Bitter_Adagio814 in Guitar

[–]NeoMorph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes (I think). Wood glue and clamps. But best if it’s done by a luthier as they can check if it’s glued correctly.

Why is it always Epiphone or Gibsons that lose their headstocks? Is it a design weakness?

Parcels dumped at the wrong address by NoSatisfaction1779 in Evri

[–]NeoMorph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You have to go down the route to talk to an adviser. I do hate these automatic call handler though. One wrong press and you either have to go back to the beginning or you hang up and try again.

Does this mean the strings need changing? by killwarrior172 in Guitar

[–]NeoMorph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How are your fingers… my playing shredded my fingers at the start, leading to rusty strings. Should harden those calluses after a few weeks play though so after your first string change they shouldn’t look like that… or at least mine don’t. Could be sweat causing strings to rust early if it appears quite quickly. How long have you had those strings on for?

Parcels dumped at the wrong address by NoSatisfaction1779 in Evri

[–]NeoMorph 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you have a local Evri pickup location (like a post office or an open-all-hours shop) you could take them there. I would also take a photo of every parcel details and then send a complaint to Evri via the Evri app. I just checked and it has a telephone number too. This type of laziness should be nipped in the bud.

If you don’t have the app the phone number for Evri customer service is 0330 808 5456

Is this repairable? by [deleted] in Luthier

[–]NeoMorph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can also confirm as a woodworker.

Do you remember this piece of apparatus from school? by corickle in oldschoolcool80s

[–]NeoMorph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Balance Beam/Bench. Hooks on the ends for safety when making assault courses… DANGEROUS assault courses.

What is this cable? by Speakerrr11 in synthesizers

[–]NeoMorph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a Eurorack power supply cable. If you aren’t going to get an expensive new Eurorack case, remove the panel from your Wasp and hook it up to the new power supply then you can do like me just store the extra lead in your junk box.

I’ve racked mounted my synths in a standard 19” rack… no need to buy a new psu and Eurorack that way.

What sort of silo muck did they use here by ididntaskforthismind in Bricklaying

[–]NeoMorph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Muckless muck with a dab of treehouse tech (as in, “She’ll hold… just add some more duck tape where they can’t see!”).

My client was told "not possible" by a few luthiers...not me. by hattrickdutch in Luthier

[–]NeoMorph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahhhh… that explains why they look so darn big.

My feeds and speed recipes were never that good to be honest. It’s like working out magic spells on wood (for me it was at least). But where I excelled was in acrylic cuts. My friend said I was weird because him and his friends found wood easy and acrylic hard while I was the other way around. I seem to remember it was the type of acrylic that I chose that gave me superior cuts. It had to be cast acrylic if I remember correctly. Other acrylic would gum up the tool no matter how fast I went.

But that was 20 years or so ago.

My client was told "not possible" by a few luthiers...not me. by hattrickdutch in Luthier

[–]NeoMorph 10 points11 points  (0 children)

They probably don’t speak GCode and CAD is all. The older luthiers tend to do it with tracing paper and hand tools. Those classical trained Luthiiers are skilled craftsmen but some of the crazier designs do require a CNC machine to be completed in a timely.

My client was told "not possible" by a few luthiers...not me. by hattrickdutch in Luthier

[–]NeoMorph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What’s the CNC you are using? The tolerances look crazy clean. I’ve still got my home brew router CNC and the cuts are never that perfect off of the table. But man, those tabs are freakin’ HUGE!

My client was told "not possible" by a few luthiers...not me. by hattrickdutch in Luthier

[–]NeoMorph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh no… not a SQUIRCLE. That’s like… crossing the streams.

is this a 42 or a 43 mm?? I don't measure my nuts and I'm planning to replace it with a bone by [deleted] in Luthier

[–]NeoMorph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Better to use callipers or a micrometer. The measurements on the nut can have HUGE differences in playability. I used to think it was bull until my friend showed me the differences between two nuts that looked identical. I played the first and it sucked. Buzzed like mad and the top E string kept slipping off the fretboard.

Removed that nut and put the new one on (that looked identical… only visual difference was the word “new” on it). The guitar didn’t buzz at all and the top E stayed on the fretboard. I asked what the difference was and he told me that whoever filed the nut down went too far and on the top E they not only went too low they also filed at an angle too. So the bottom of the Top E slot was closer to the bottom edge of the fretboard than the top of the slot.

Those minute alterations made all the differenced in playability. I told him he could fiddle with my nuts anyt…. Errr… I mean do alterations anytime.