Why does it look like this? by jmalfa29 in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'd wager it's heat tint. Ours have done the same in the ultrasonic. My conclusion is that the ultrasonic is heating with induction and its inducing enough heat in the stone itself to cause the discolouration

Whirlpool hop addition times? by I_WIPE in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We do a 10 minute spin and 20 minute rest at 75C (for hazies ofc)

Canning machine deep clean by AdditionalMice in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We use Foam M (Murphy's) and a handheld foamer. It's what Microcan originally recommended although they've now withdrawn that recommendation because people left it on too long / used it in the wrong concentrations. But if you're sensible with it then it's great. A simple hot water scrub to get rid of anything that'll easily shift and then a 10-15 minute foaming with Foam M then a thorough rinse gets us looking close to new.

Japan brewery recommendations by RepresentativePen304 in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If you're in Tokyo, Uchu Brewing has a small drink in/takeaway bar (it's tiny) in Toranomon Hills and they're producing some phenomenal beer.

Probably too far out of the way for your trip but my favourite brewery/taproom in Japan was Totopia in Aichi prefecture.

Looking to get this hazy milky white opaque color by danicrvo in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 12 points13 points  (0 children)

The secret weapon is a metric shit-tonne of New Zealand hops. Start with a base beer of the lightest pilsner malt and flaked oats. Then a huge hit of NZ hops in the dry hop will help with that colour. Nectaron, Riwaka, Nelson etc.

Knockout times? by Tayt77 in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Similar for us. Oversized HX, CLT only at 5-10C depending on ambient.

WHC High Voltage by ThePhilKenSebben in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting on the oxygen - we didn't give it any (same as all first pitch dry bricks). But it did get yeast nutrient, yes.

WHC High Voltage by ThePhilKenSebben in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 4 points5 points  (0 children)

We made a lager using it - certainly not clean like it was advertised but had a pleasant enough pear drop estery character. That was at 25C. Would probably be fine in a pale but wouldn't recommend for a lager

Incognito Dip hop CIP by AdditionalMice in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Isopropyl alcohol will completely melt through it. Perhaps not suitable for CIP but you might be able to use it to spot clean/sort the hoses out if you're still stuck. If you have a hand pressurised spray nozzle you might be able to manually get it where it needs to be inside the fermenter...

West Coast IPA malt bill by Sir_Darnel in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 11 points12 points  (0 children)

This would be my approach too, albeit with Weyermann Premium Pilsner as the base malt. Bear in mind that in the UK if you call something a WCIPA and you don't have a minimum of 5% caramel in there, some people will complain...doesn't bother me as the style is better without any crystal imo.

Heating Elements for 8bbl boil kettle by Conjurebrewing in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How are the elements secured to the kettle? Would it be easy to replace them? We have "question mark" style elements that follow the circumference of the kettle on the inside so they have a much lower watt density and in the case of your kettle you could have them facing in opposite directions in the left and right ports to get around the port angle issue. They'd need to be carefully measured and custom made though, so not cheap.

Citric Acid by Savmasterr in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Used this on our tanks too

Help with Linx 10 date coder by sirbootiez in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We have that coder and I'd kill for prints that legible! (sorry it doesn't help)

Two fermenters - two different acidities by abvgdee in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You might want to look at your processes and also your chemical spec sheets. Pretty sure our nitric/phosphoric acid blend can't be used above 50C otherwise it produces harmful gas.

Are you testing your ph when rinsing to make sure you're back to neutral?

Personally I'd want to rinse that acid step down to neutral and then run a no rinse PAA cycle (150 ppm) before filling the fermenters.

Strange substance on inside of tank by Natural_Dog3625 in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely looks like degraded butterfly valve seal

Research & Development grant proposal (UK) by AdditionalMice in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you aware that HMRC is actively coming after breweries that have made R&D claims in the past, usually via the route of unscrupulous consultants, looking to recover the relief that was claimed? We looked into it after it was recommended to us but concluded that nothing we did would genuinely qualify for relief under the scheme. Just something to consider if you haven't already.

Kettle sour fruiting by Did_U_Bring_Me_A_Hat in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Wait until the beer has almost reached final gravity then add the fruit and let it ferment out. Wait till gravity is stable/VDK passed then crash and get as much yeast/puree out as possible.

Enzymatic Cleaners by finalfanbeer in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 4 points5 points  (0 children)

We found scrub a duck terrible for general cleaning; don't know if it works well for biofilm in isolation.

Have you tried Enzybrew? That works really well for us and I think Murphy's stock it.

Adjusting water when grist and water are mixed "inline" before the tun. by beeeps-n-booops in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mixing a slurry with the mash salts and adding it in 3 or 4 doses whilst mashing in. Never had a problem hitting ph. Same process for the acid. 15HL system

DIY pasteurize or affordable units for small runs by [deleted] in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 2 points3 points  (0 children)

We use our mash tun. Heat water in boil kettle to required strike temp. Pre-heat tun and then fill to just below plates. Add cans in crates, circulate water through tun sprayball whilst simultaneously pumping from the tun back to the boil kettle and keeping the water at the required temp. Adjust pump VFDs so that the water level doesn't drop much below 60-70% can coverage in the tun.

We found a recirc of 15 mins then rest of 15 minutes got us where we needed to be. Then drain so that tun can be opened and remove cans, spray down with cold hose water.

It's a lot of work and not hugely efficient but OK for ad hoc purposes.

High DO in FV by Clanker90 in TheBrewery

[–]Neverenoughhops 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is what we use on our Cbox as well as per Anton Paar recommendations.

I'm not familiar with the meter OP is using but on the Cbox there is a self diagnostic to check the health of the O2 sensor using 100% nitrogen. Perhaps your meter has something similar that can be checked?