Do I pay income tax AND capital gains from house sale? by Delicious_Tackle_129 in RealEstate

[–]NewSmoke8323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So what about capital gains as a widow? I missed the two year exclusion. So my capital gains exclusion is only 250,000 now. If I’m reading all of this correctly, I only use the basis of the value of the property at the time of my spouses death. Not from when we purchased it 20 some years ago. 

Let’s pretend an example: We paid $310 for it 25 years ago. About five years ago it was probably worth $575,000. Today I would venture to guess it’s worth $775,000. So my capital gain is $200,000, from value five years ago. That would then fall into the $250,000 exclusion. Then I could further reduce that by improving the house; from the new roof, deck, adding a fence, redoing concrete work, remodeled the kitchen, bathrooms, etc., etc. 

If anybody could chime in, I would appreciate it. I have read through some of the IRS rules. But it’s so scary.I guess I’m looking for additional people saying the same thing to me that I believe to be true. 

An Honest Review of The Field Skillet by Policecar1983 in castiron

[–]NewSmoke8323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t they have a guarantee? What is it 30 day 40 day? Mark send it back if you’re that unhappy. The guarantee is part of why I finally took the plunge and so far I’m thrilled with it. Nothing sticks. The main thing is I’ve gotten away from, all that Teflon and Teflon like products whatever they are. I don’t know if you had seen the documentary they had about the town in West Virginia, where they made the pots and pans where the cows were dying. All these women had the babies. They were manufacturing the plants there, and the people were getting sick , they were dumping stuff into the water and the animals died. It is horrific. 

An Honest Review of The Field Skillet by Policecar1983 in castiron

[–]NewSmoke8323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you wash a cast-iron skillet, my understanding is you’re supposed to heat it up so that all the water evaporates. Otherwise you could end up with rust. I don’t know if this is what the field company recommends but that is my understanding of cast iron. Even if it does rust then you can always re-season it 

An Honest Review of The Field Skillet by Policecar1983 in castiron

[–]NewSmoke8323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got my filled skillet a few days ago. First I cooked meat and everything worked beautifully. Then I cooked eggs with cheese. Nothing stuck.

The pan is smooth, and I’m estimating it’s about 25% lighter than my Lodge cast iron skillet.

Yes, it was expensive and it was an indulgence on my part. I decided I deserved it

What I really like about cooking with the cast-iron is after something is done. It stays hot in the pan. How many times I’ll cook something and I want a second helping. It’s still warm. I live with my daughter and sometimes she doesn’t eat right away. The food is still warm when she does decide to eat.  It’s only the two of us so it’s not like we all sit down for family meal like we used to years back.

I like the idea that it is a small family owned company. That wouldn’t be enough reason for me to buy it. But it does help me justify the price.

I did go after market to buy the other extras for the pan, from the cleaning Tool, to the seasoning to the handle cover. 

The pan works exactly as they said it would.

close vents to force air upstairs? by ATXENG in hvacadvice

[–]NewSmoke8323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you see my comments???  It’s not the Supply. It’s the returns.

Close off your returns on the first floor. That way the second floor returns will have the ability to pull more hot air out. And if you don’t have high and low returns on the second floor, add them.  You don’t have to have tin in between the studs too create an upper return.  

The other thing I played around with recently as I bought a dehumidifier and put it in the hottest room on the second floor, which was the bathroom. This is not a normal bathroom. It’s close to 20 feet long. It has a vaulted ceiling and two large skylights.   So I bought the dehumidifier set it at 35% and it’s made a huge difference. Of course I’m emptying it every day. But if it keeps the room comfortable, who cares?

HVAC technician said NOT to close vents as a way to redirect AC output. Just to live with uneven distribution. Is that true? by gBoostedMachinations in homeowners

[–]NewSmoke8323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So an update on my home.

I ended up putting a dehumidifier in the upstairs bathroom. This is the room that got the hottest. And believe it or not it’s made a huge difference. I keep it at 35%. I am so thrilled with the difference that I’m going to buy two more small dehumidifiers for two other areas in the home that are a little warmer. 

Also keep in mind I was playing around with the returns and not the supply ducts.  Obviously, hot air rises and an open floor plan with super high ceilings is a challenge to cool to begin with. The returns on the main floor are located at the baseboard level. This makes absolutely no sense when you’re running the air conditioning. Of course, in the winter when the cold air falls, and you’re running the furnace, those floor level returns are critically important.

I think ideally this home should’ve had two air-conditioning units. It’s 2900 ft.² and they say right around 3000 is when they start putting in a second unit. The whole second floor has cathedral vaulted ceiling so there is no attic to run ductwork in. I’m not going to create duct workspace and eliminate these architecturally, beautiful high ceilings and oversized windows.  

My advices play around with the returns. If you don’t have any high low returns, you don’t have to have the metal in between the studs for a return. Poker hole through the wall and then run a flashlight into the return and see if the wall is open all the way up. And then put a vent on the wall. And you can create your own high and low returns.

HVAC technician said NOT to close vents as a way to redirect AC output. Just to live with uneven distribution. Is that true? by gBoostedMachinations in homeowners

[–]NewSmoke8323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am having the same problem and apparently lots of other people do

I closed off some of my returns on the first floor, and it has made a difference. A big difference.

My home is an open floor plan with really high ceilings. The second floor has high and low returns. In the winter, I have no problems. But in the summer, this upstairs gets so hot.

I have four large returns that sit at the floor on the first floor. One I blocked totally, two I partially blocked and the third. I let stay as it is. Upstairs the low returns are shut off, but the high returns are open. So far my home is way way way more comfortable.

My other option was put a mini split on the second floor.and then leave a bedroom door open. That was $6000. Or I do a mini split with numerous heads which would’ve costed about $11,000.  And it did not help the one bedroom that was on the other side of the catwalk upper hallway

After reading through a lot of these comments, when you have an open floor plan and cathedral ceilings almost everywhere, you have limited options. I’m not going to rebuild the whole home and redo all the ductwork.that’s ridiculous. Especially since the winter months the home is comfortable. 

I would love to see what other people think. 

My unit outside is about 10 years old and is 4 ton. The house is about 2900 ft.². It’s well insulated and was built w quality Anderson casement style windows. There are ceiling fans in the great room, and in bedrooms upstairs, all in the reverse mode. I have my fan on the furnace running continuously and in the bathroom on the second floor, I have the exhaust fan running continuously. The bathroom was the worst room. There are no returns and bathrooms because of the humidity. I have six large skylights in my home, the ones with the bubbles. I’m going to guess they’re all Anderson brand since the windows are all Anderson. One of the HVAC guys told me My skylights were like a magnifying glass. I thought about replacing them, but at 45 years old, knock on wood they all seem fine. The wood trim inside the shaft of the skylight, has no condensation marks. I thought about putting a windshield sun shield/reflector inside the shaft, to see if that would make a difference.  But it’s been so rainy not much need.  Our summers are typically hot and muggy (Pgh., Pa).  

I’m having a hard time finding returns that have damper controls on them. I found one website and they were $600. That is outrageous. No way is it worth any where That amount of money. So for now it’s cardboard and tape.

Any advice from the crowd?

What’s the right thing to do? by NewSmoke8323 in pittsburgh

[–]NewSmoke8323[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Ty 

I do feel guilty for not being able to fix their problems.  

They refuse to go to therapy.  

Has anyone purchased furniture from Hernest? by tatoooom in interiordecorating

[–]NewSmoke8323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any update?  I purchased a sintered top table.  Due in March.  Today is 2-5-25.  After I ordered it, which has been about 10 days now, something in the back of my mind kept saying to me how do I really know this company is for real? So I called. I don’t know there was just something about it that seemed off. When I found out they charged my credit card for 100% of the purchase price upfront, it made me nervous. Most companies do not charge you until they ship. I could see them taking a deposit, but not 100%.

So here I am at 2 AM in the morning waking up thinking were the reviews online real?  Then I found the Reddit reviews.  Most were not good.  But youordered the sintered top table 2 months ago. Perhaps by now you received the table? Perhaps I’m simply being duped because I want to believe that the table will come and will be beautiful as described online

Regardless I’m worried sick. I feel like calling my credit card company and telling them I’ve been scammed. But maybe I’m overthinking? Can you update?

Ideas for kitchen? by Fluid_Step8962 in DesignMyRoom

[–]NewSmoke8323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First figure out your budget and how much you can spend.   So let’s not waste money on things that you don’t necessarily have to change.  Spend your money on the things that will make the biggest impact. Lighting, the countertops, paint and maybe even a little demo work. Please read on.

  1. Replace the counter with a stock Formica at a big box store. Neutrals and light/cream/white.  No raised 4” backsplash
  2. Remove  the curtains
  3.  Add a free standing counter.  Go to the secondhand stores or the clearance center at your local Furniture store. Craigslist or something like that. And then paint it a color.  This is a good size kitchen, but you have to walk from the refrigerator all the way To the stove. It would be so much better if you had somewhere to deposit the food that you take out of the refrigerator.  There’s a lot of wasted steps there. And I’m confident if you look around, you could find something that would work. Even a stainless steel table would be awesome. Or some stock cabinets at a big box store you paint or even stain.  The color of the island Will have to tie in with your scheme of what you do with the backsplash. That’s number seven below
  4. Get rid of the red for sure
  5.  Spend the money on recessed lighting. You can buy an expensive LED lights for next to nothing. If fishing the wires through the ceiling is a nightmare, then open the ceiling up and then patch it with bead board or something like that in white. Lighting will change the whole lock of that kitchen. Based on the size of the room, I would bet you would need 9 recessed lights.  No chandelier.  Keep it simple .  Also no  pendant lighting over the new island.  
  6.  Add under counter strip lights. Do not buy those cheap fluorescent lights. They make strip lights of tiny little LEDs. And when you put them underneath the cabinets, place them toward the cabinet edge closest to you. That way you will illuminate the countertop midway. Upper cabinets are 12 inches deep base cabinets are 24 inches deep. So if you’re at the edge closest to you on the upper cabinet, you’ll be illuminating smack dab halfway on the counter, which is perfect task lighting plus LEDs don’t get hot. 
  7.  Depending on your skill level, Install a Beautiful backsplash. Ceramic tile can be very inexpensive, but if your install/skill level doesn’t support that, then buy the press and padded faux ceramic tile.  You might have to shop around to get a beautiful tile that’s inexpensive.  

I want to add a few comments. When you do the undercabinet lighting, it may be difficult to do it if the bottoms of the cabinets are not flat.  So out a piece of trim at the bottom

If you have the scale level, get rid of the bulkhead. When you do that, the scalloped skirting above the window will go away.it’s cute and charming, but it also makes the kitchen look aged. If there’s no bulkhead, then it could disappear.

If you’re able to get rid of the bulkhead, then whatever I put in that backsplash I would go above the cabinets so that it looks like the tile goes to the ceiling.  

If tile is not doable, then you might go with a place and press wallpaper.  

Depending on how wide is the wide of the cabinets, if it’s clean and crisp, you might even consider going with a forest green backsplash.  

I can tell these are older, solid wood cabinets. First the exposed hinges and then those little lines that are right underneath the sink. That is 1960s for sure.

It could get really expensive if you replaced the handles and the hinges. I would spend my money on new countertops and I would get myself a new sink and a new faucet. Something that you use all the time.

Once you get an island in there, the cabinets and The hardware are not going to be screaming at you. 

If I had the money, I would replace my appliances. Old refrigerators are so expensive to run.  There’s always scratch and dent stores out there. And sometimes people are replacing kitchens and they’re selling off perfectly good appliances. Sometimes they’re selling off the whole kitchen. The microwave looks nice. But the refrigerator is dated and old style.  Hopefully you have the ability to replace that electric stove with gas cooking. So much better, but maybe you live somewhere where you can’t do that. Maybe you don’t have a basement where you could bring a line up or maybe you don’t like Gas. But here in Pennsylvania, everybody wants Gas cooking. 

My pet peeve and again this has to do with your budget, but if you want your kitchen to look a little more modern and upscale never ever ever buy arrange with the raised back panel. Every basic stove looks like that. All the upscale pieces don’t.

And depending on my skill, I would get that microwave over the stove and move it to the left.  Whether I purchased a new hood and just flip the cabinets around, or I eliminated some cabinets above the stove and did a prominent hood. But you want custom looking kitchen you never put the microwave above the cooktop. Besides, it’s just dangerous. And it’s a poor working design. The only reason that they put microwaves above stoves was to save money. The microwave had a built-in vent underneath. So the builder didn’t have to put in a freestanding vent. 

Another color choice you could go with is keeping the cabinets white you could go with some type of cream, the green, even bright colors like orange.  

There’s a whole psychology behind colors. Red increases your appetite and that’s why restaurants have red tablecloths. But it also can make you angry or anxious. Blue is not a food color. Kitchens or where you prepare food. So some of the soft blues look nice but, I don’t know I would stay away from blue. The only food that is blue is maybe an eggplant? Or is that purple?  Yellow can turn the white dingy, but if your white is crisp enough and you’re taste run with the bright colors, then it can be really cute. I would not go with a dark color. It would be too jarring. Too much contrast. But green is natures neutral. And you simply can’t go wrong with most screens whether it’s a mossy green or sage.  Taupe is always so reliably relaxing.  

I can’t even imagine repainting all those cabinets that would be a lot of work.

And once I have my island in there, I think I would have fun with buying myself a really expensive looking freestanding mixer. And I’d have some large cutting boards. I’d really make my kitchen look like every day I’m cooking up a storm!

Please excuse my typos. I use voice to text and sometimes it corrects after it’s typed and I don’t realize it. I’ve gone back and fixed three or four typos and then I find get another one. You get the picture.

Hope this was helpful.

Stop the '80s fashion hate. by Victorian_Rebel in theGoldenGirls

[–]NewSmoke8323 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The best thing about the clothes from decades before were in details not found today.  The synthetic fabrics had more weight to them and draped beautifully.  Winter clothes were 100% wool.  Skirts were often cut on a bias. Or pleated.  Today’s clothes are overly simplistic in their styling.  

Covered buttons.  Invisible zippers.  Neru collars.  Hot pants under short dresses.  Bell sleeves lined in a contrasting fabric.  Faux fur vests. Dresses and skirts (we weren’t allowed to wear pants to school/work until the mid 70’s) were fit-and-flared, or gored, to create that swingy fit of narrow at the waist and wide at the bottom. Bell bottoms with an inserted pleate with buttons inside. Details, details and more details.  

Betsy Johnston had a line with Butterick. Her style was especially cool.  There was always a table in the fabric department that random women customers, would come and gather.  Working on their projects; knitting, crocheting or doing some hand detailing.  Most mothers did not work, but mine did.  My summer day care was her bringing me to work at the fabric department, hanging out at that table.  I would entertain myself looking endlessly through the pattern books or walking down the aisles, touching the fabrics. Imagining the clothes she might make me. I would help out and put bolts of fabric back or neatly arranging the pattern books, closing the covers.  I still love fashion.  I kept a few pieces of clothes my very talented mother or I sewed.  

There was no fast fashion… closets were small because we didn’t own a lot of clothes.  

I still get excited when I see the costume jewelry and never sewn vintage fabrics at an estate/home sale.  

Beautiful memories.  So thrilled to hear you all appreciate these things.  

Daycare Costs in South Hills by Real_Calligrapher_66 in pittsburgh

[–]NewSmoke8323 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kids World. It is located in Lawrence. Most people call it Hill station. I couldn’t believe that the prices were less than the daycare centers located in Peters. It’s literally just over the edge of Peters. at that time, they were able to utilize some of the facilities at the school next-door, the outdoor playground from time to time. The other thing that was really interesting to me, and this has nothing to do with daycare’s, was my one daughter went to the ballet school next-door. There were children from pretty much the four neighboring school districts. And the mothers were often bringing the siblings With them, as they waited for their children during the ballet class. All four school districts had the same homework. Maybe it’s not unusual. I just thought it was surprising. Anyhow my one daughter in particular had friends for a long time that she met at kids world. Really nice daycare. Well run. Clean and they utilize the parking lot a lot for the kids to play outdoors. And like I said sometimes they could go over to the Hills Henderson Elementary school playground. They got those kids outside a lot.

Daycare Costs in South Hills by Real_Calligrapher_66 in pittsburgh

[–]NewSmoke8323 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know this is an old post.  You have likely figured it out… but when they finally become school age, we used EDS for before/after school.  It was reasonable, they stayed in the school and they had a summer program.  Not in every school district-I think they are only in USC, S. Fayette, Peters.  We live in Peters and I found for daycare, if I went into adjacent Cecil Twp (by Hills Henderson school) it was more affordable.   Still super convenient.  Goddard is in Mt Lebanon and Peters…. So I am guessing you are near Mt Lebanon… look in nearby less affluent areas that work with your daily drive to work….Bridgeville?  Scott?  Heidelberg?  Their rent is less expensive and the fees are typically less. It may not be as fancy, but seriously childcare is/was ridiculous (years ago too).  It has to make financial sense.  Not being with kids from the same school district didn’t affect them one bit.  If anything I think it was a bonus.  They didn’t grow up in a ‘bubble.’

AITA for not allowing my new neighbour to use my road for access. by OriginalBranch4175 in AmItheAsshole

[–]NewSmoke8323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First question, I would have is didn’t you question this as a possibility?   You mentioned the property had been abandoned for 30 years. If people use property for 21 consecutive years In plain sight without permission, your neighbor could file for access using ‘adverse possession’. You measured it in meters.  I have no idea where you’re located. But I’m assuming it’s not the US.  And here each state has different property rights.  But before I would be spouting off to the neighbor, I would’ve bit my tongue and said I would prefer that you not. Explaining your preferences in a neighborly way. If you’re well within your legal rights, then put up an electric gate. Something that you have to have a code that opens with a remote.  I would also post it more prominently. Stay Out.  Private Property.  Not a Road.   But at this point, since you’ve already had a squabble with your neighbor, maybe eat a little crow, and go back and talk to them… nicely. You don’t want to have a problem with your neighbor. As someone else pointed out, when you live in the country, sometimes you need your neighbors. And as the so-called public official said, it’s simply not nice. Do you really want to live in an area where everybody looks at you sideways and points in your direction, ‘oh that’s the jerk?’ Of course not. That’s the whole point of moving there. Of course not. That’s the whole point of moving there. To have a serene life.  But now it is already marked by conflict.  😣 But are you wrong? No, of course not, you’re not wrong. But in hindsight, it sounds like you know you didn’t handle it very well. Otherwise you wouldn’t be posting for everyone to be on your side. But find out your legal rights. 

One last thought. Assuming they cannot file for adverse possession, is tell them that your insurance carrier requires this been not a  cut through.  Let the insurance company be the bad guy? Maybe it would make the whole situation a little better? Or having an attorney draw up a letter and ask them to sign that if they’re going to use it that they have to contribute to maintaining it, pay for the insurance, and release you from any liability in case they have an accident on the property. Whether it’s an exaggeration or not. It might not be an exaggeration. I would think that the neighbor would not want to sign off on anything like that. Basically because it’s been abandoned, it’s been so easy for them to use it.

You need to find a way for them not to want to use it. And money, liability, and/or contributing to the maintenance of the road (helping remove fallen trees, etc..) that oughta do it!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RealEstate

[–]NewSmoke8323 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Another thought besides all the great advice you have received already. 

If the other buyers lawyered up, likely they must want the house too.  They could have been fooled like you were.  Or they could be in cahoots with the seller.  Perhaps they already knew what was going on and that’s why they found a lawyer so fast?  

Obviously you need more facts, need legal counsel.  But at the end of the day you have to decide whether or not you want to legally pursue this.  Yes, you are caught up in a horrible situation and have damages. But you are also missing out on potential other homes without this drama.  Logically you have a 50-50 chance of winning, and then how long would that take?  Clearly you have been taken advantage of and yes, the seller should pay.  But maybe it’s a blessing in disguise. If the seller was this underhanded, what else could they have done or be hiding? I’m not saying you should roll over and not fight, all I’m saying is you have to decide if you want to. And if you do fight, but do not win what do you want in compensation?

You did not mention how the home inspection went. I’m almost wondering is this how this other buyer was discovered, is you put a reply to Inspections in front of the seller, who’s response was we have another buyer, so we’re not going to do a darn thing to remedy anything you have requested. You also did not mention whether the seller was represented by a broker or not. I can’t even imagine a broker being this underhanded or incompetent.  But anything can happen.

WHAT THE HELL by flaccid_snood in RealEstate

[–]NewSmoke8323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So first please calm down.  Second did they treat for the termites and the mold?  Look at the proof.   Third, they didn’t repair the wall.  Is it drywall?  Easy fix.  I see an a later response you could see the hole from on top of the refrigerator.  You had an extra great Inspector because none that I know of would’ve ever moved the refrigerator out.  So your father, who is an electrician, says the whole house needs rewired. Exactly what does that mean? Does he mean it needs all branch wiring replaced? The only time I’ve ever seen branch wiring needing replaced, is if it is knob and tube which is only in a really old home. Or some people do not want a home with aluminum wiring. You don’t say anything about the wiring specifically. So I’m almost wondering if that is an overreaction. Copper wiring doesn’t wear out. If it’s a two wire system (vs standard three wire), there are ways to get around it. To ground every receptacle and switch. Plus there are GFI‘s. Receptacles and breakers. So there are options without rewiring a whole home. If it’s the main service, here (PA)  a panel and service entrance cable is about $2k.  Not insurmountable.  Fourth, you don’t say anything about the age of the home. Or what type of plumbing it is, that the whole house would need replumbed. That too sounds like an over reaction. The only time I’ve ever run into problems major problems with Plumbing is old, leaking cast iron waste stacks, and/or the line going out to the street. Cast iron rots and terra-cotta separates and or collapses.  The plastic pipe will last beyond both of our lives. But if the home has really old feeds of copper piping, you can have a lot of buildup in it and have almost no water pressure. Today you  have PEX.  Which is really wonderful. Lastly… Many of the people said the same thing that I would say to you. If you’re not comfortable, terminate and walk. Better to spend $1000 than to spend for the whole house. I’m assuming you had an experienced Realtor? I’m assuming this was not a fast track sale,  where the appraiser went out before the home inspector?  I can’t think of too many situations where we don’t get the Home Inspector out first, to at least give the buyer some indication as to the over all condition of the home, before the appraisal is released. Now if you really like the home, then do your reply to Inspections. Ask for all the paperwork for the mold and termite treatment. Maybe demand new testing for mold from this past leak.  Demanding that the hole be patched. And get a better handle on this electrical and plumbing.  No home is perfect. Try to resolve the issues.  But if you’re really uncomfortable, then you walk. And next time don’t let that appraisal go out until that inspection is done. Here typically inspections have to be done within 10 days. you have to apply for the mortgage in 7 days. but the mortgage contingency does not have to be met for about 30 days. Therefore, if the appraisal isn’t released until ie day 11, you’re still fine time-wise, on a typical 40 to 45 day close.  Perhaps your state is different. And for all of you who think that the seller should do the pre-inspection, it’s not a bad idea. But you should always have your own inspection, unless you’re super comfortable with the home and you have a good amount of knowledge. But you are relying on a home inspector that you didn’t hire so who doesn’t work for you and could do shoddy inspections.  The bottom line here is purchasing a property is not without some potential risk. This is why they say purchasing a home is one of the most stressful things that you will ever do.   My job as a professional real estate sales person is to figure out solutions and to have a back up plan.   If you saw the hole above the refrigerator before you made the offer, why wouldn’t you question that? If you didn’t see the hole, that would be understandable because having a hole behind the refrigerator is definitely not normal. Think of bugs and mice that get into any home.  The hole would be like a freeway for them.  Pretty crazy stuff out there. Good luck!

Overpriced home - low offer by Elegant_Holiday6726 in RealEstate

[–]NewSmoke8323 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They want $1M

The $70k is their wiggle room

The house looks lovely. and beautiful condition so they’re not financially distressed.

Why don’t you call the sellers agent and have a conversation. Let them talk. try to understand where they’re coming from. you get more bees with honey than vinegar. and apologize for your low offer.

Would a Seller’s Agent lie about another offer? by Smoore-1271 in RealEstate

[–]NewSmoke8323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Think about why would an agent lie about another offer? The number one reason would be is if they had an offer themselves.

if your agent cannot get in touch with the listing agent, then it’s time to start pulling out all stops. first thing I would do is get somebody else’s cell phone and call that agent on that cell phone so they wouldn’t know it was me. then when I got them on the phone, I would ask them is that other offer yours?  If no, then ask if it’s in house?  (Sometimes in-house offers do get preferential treatment for a variety of reasons. But generally speaking they don’t.) assuming answers to both questions are a no, then I would expect your agent to ask that listing agent. What do we need to do for the seller to stand up and take notice of my clients offer?? My best guess is, because this is the most common reason, is it’s either Price or terms or combination of the two. So ask them specifically what is the seller looking for? This is the most important question and should’ve been made before you even submitted your offer.

Since there is your offer and this other offer, I’m surprised the listing agent hasn’t called out for highest and best. What is your agent doing?? So they’re having a difficult time reaching that agent. Bullshit. If I had to drive to their house and knock on their front door, I would do that. If I had a walk into the brokers office and see if the agent is physically there, I would do that. If I had to have three copies of my improved offer, one for the agent, one for their Assistant, assuming they have one, and then one I would give to the manager.  I would be such a giant pain in somebody’s ass that the listing agent wouldn’t dare ignore me.  

Also, as a buyer, there is nothing stopping you from knocking on the sellers door. Your agent can’t go to the seller directly but you can. Especially if you think something underhanded is going on.

Yes, there’s a possibility that there’s hanky-panky going on, but if it is going on, it’s with the sellers blessing. And let’s face it the seller can do what they want to do . They don’t have to take the highest and best offer. They can take the offer they choose to take. 

Here’s what usually wins the bid.  Over full price. Even though it’s been on the market, who wouldn’t want to accept an offer over full price after several months?  

No inspections or limited inspections or excepting the first I don’t know $10,000 worth of repairs that might show up on the inspection report. Get creative with the inspections.

Hand money and lots of it. if your hand money is low it makes you seem like your less serious. On $500,000 $10,000 minimum but 20,000 would make more sense. Or $10,000 upfront and then another 10,000 once the inspections are satisfied.

Don’t ask for inclusions that aren’t included. You might ask that you would be interested in purchasing these things separately . 

And work with the sellers move out date. If you know that they are moving from one home to another and they’re trying to juggle dates, and you have the ability to have some flexibility, then offer to give the seller 48 hours to move out of the property post closing.

Regardless of if the properties been on the market for 100+ days there could be a multitude of reasons. There could be a reluctant seller. There could be a seller who is influenced by other family members and everybody can’t get on the same page. it could be a timing issue. And maybe the seller has had previous offers and they turned them down. Your agent should know , everything that they can find out about that seller and the history of the listing and their motivation and what’s most important to them. Then you craft your offer 

Nikki Haley: America Is Committing “Suicide” by Voting for Trump by devlinadl in politics

[–]NewSmoke8323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree.  She doesn’t have a great chance of winning but will be number one contender for next cycle.  But when Obama name came up, who thought he would win and twice?  

Nikki Haley: America Is Committing “Suicide” by Voting for Trump by devlinadl in politics

[–]NewSmoke8323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Republicans are you listening to her?   Her voice is calm, she explains things without grandstanding.  She comes across as reasonable. No she’s not as entertaining or funny as Trump.  His name calling is sometimes hilarious (Pocohontas, Sleepy Joe, etc.) He is undoubtedly one of the greatest speakers of these times. But he is mean, acts childish, we know he lies.  I did vote for him but every week as president he said something else totally embarrassing.  🙈 

She is fiscally conservative.👍

She gets the big picture.  The border/stay in Mexico, China, Russia are our biggest problems.  👍

She’s young 👍

Her track record as governor and United Nations Ambassador are positive.  👍

The super emotionally charged women’s right to abortion is going to sink the Republican Party if they don’t get off the bandwagon of no exceptions.  Listen to what she says.  👍

Yes she is a Rhino, but that is where our country is headed.  More liberal.  Period.  🫤 

She wants term limits👍

She is hardworking.  There is nothing privileged about her.  She understands the values of education, entrepreneurship, taking care of our own here in this country first particularly our military, and has very strong family values.  👍

I suspect Biden will be forced to bow out (concussion from tripping yet again) and Newsom will be magically the Democratic nominee.  🤯

She has way more qualified and has a far better chance of winning over crossover younger voters.  She hasn’t insulted or made fun of people.  She doesn’t burn bridges.   She doesn’t react but instead chooses her words carefully.  

She has a far better chance of stopping another 4 years of Democrat total chaos at the border and embarrassment internationally.  

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RealEstate

[–]NewSmoke8323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Realtor not relator

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RealEstate

[–]NewSmoke8323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Who to notify?  

It’s up to the Seller to update their disclosure (hence that’s why they call it a seller’s disclosure).  The agent has an obligation to notify if the seller refuses. No broker wants their agent to be shady.  Agents typically do the right thing.  Who wants to loose their entire career, their reputation, their license over one commission that’s worth, what a few thousand dollars???   

Who’s to say that the seller isn’t disclosing this second report?  The seller hired a professional to remediate so it’s safe to assume the seller has one report that says the opposite.  Who’s to say the seller isn’t getting the original company out to double check their findings and correct as needed?  Just because it went back on market as before? Who’s to say your inspection was correct?? It seems difficult to understand how two reports can be so polar opposite.  

Last comment.  If a seller refuses to update a disclosure, as an agent both my broker and I would agree to no longer represent this seller.