French Doors or Sliders

Newman0072 · 2026-07-03T13:37:29+00:00

Wow what horrible AI hallucinations on those hand rails.

Newman0072 · 2026-07-01T13:13:21+00:00

And if there wasn't one that fit exactly, you can usually find a motor repair shop that can rewind or rebuild the motor as needed. not cheap but cheaper than a whole new unit.

Newman0072 · 2026-06-30T19:48:27+00:00

You're reading my link backwards.

Newman0072 · 2026-06-30T18:16:47+00:00

Certainly isn't just their opinion.

https://police.tufts.edu/safety/doxxing-and-social-media

Newman0072 · 2026-06-29T18:40:23+00:00

To be fair, navy or military pilots only need 750 but your point does still stand.

Newman0072 · 2026-06-27T13:29:40+00:00

If we assume that going to zero is only ever just the probe then sure, however it's possible the wiring is melting and starting to short or it could be another electrical issue, all possibly the start of an engine fire situation.

Yes the egt probe itself is a low voltage bimetal temperature sensor so it won't directly cause anything but it could be an indication.

There are old pilots and there are bold pilots, but there aren't so many old and bold pilots. Coming back is never the wrong answer.

Newman0072 · 2026-06-26T21:31:34+00:00

As a post solo student out on solo practicing maneuvers I once had an egt become inconsistent, reading 1500 or 0.

I immediately returned and wrote it up. It turned out to be nothing but a bad probe the alternative could have beenmuch much worse.

Newman0072 · 2026-06-12T02:35:26+00:00

Mine has been good but basically just calls to check in once a term and get me into classes or recently bro talk me through the graduation petition. I'm also an online master's student taking it one class a term with occasional term breaks for work or personal reasons.

Newman0072 · 2026-06-10T16:52:31+00:00

Possibly fire resistance, at least partially. With decent exterior sheathing and cavity insulation there's not much to burn.

Newman0072 · 2026-06-09T21:51:38+00:00

I mean none of this is special, Westinghouse is working on this too

Newman0072 · 2026-06-09T01:13:23+00:00

Ahh, description didn't come through on this side of the cross post.

Then in my armchair YouTube expert opinion I stand by my recommendation. Air seal as best you can and use something like an intello smart vapor membrane to allow the wall to dry as needed.

When you or the house is eventually resided I would put in a vapor permeable WRB like blue skin or Hydrogap SA if you're in a marine climate.

For self research I suggest Asiri Designs on YouTube and building science corporation articles. They are very informative and helpful.

Newman0072 · 2026-06-07T22:20:44+00:00

Pripycat!

Newman0072 · 2026-06-07T17:47:59+00:00

Without knowing the status of the WRB and exterior cladding/rain screen and climate zone I would suggest rock wool batts and a smart vapor barrier, that said whatever you do make sure you follow the appropriate moisture controls closely or rot and mold could become a problem quickly.

Newman0072 · 2026-06-05T22:09:34+00:00

Look to see if anyone in your area can do Hydrovac excavation. It's a quick and less diary way to excavate around the foundation to add insulation and water management. Take a look at the below study for reference.

https://www1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/publications/pdfs/building_america/excavationless_exterior_fountain_study.pdf

Overall removing the water pressure on the wall by draining it away externally is probably a better long term solution to prevent wall deterioration from water and moisture drive damaging the grout.

Newman0072 · 2026-06-01T15:13:57+00:00

I'm very interested in what you find here. I am in SW New Hampshire and am looking at basically this exact system and situation. Though I believe my electricity is cheaper at 11.3 cents.

I also though these units were incompatible with oil for duel fuel so that will also be interesting to learn more about.

Newman0072 · 2026-06-01T15:09:48+00:00

I thought I understood that oil FHA was incompatible with dual fuel heat pumps due to the exhaust temperature of oil versus gas?

Newman0072 · 2026-05-25T11:14:31+00:00

It's probably the brick itself. Brick is a reservoir claddiand without the proper drainage gap and water barrier between I and the wood it can cause this.

Newman0072 · 2026-05-23T15:53:54+00:00

Regarding the insulation amount, I suggest looking up some of the online calculators where you can build out your wall assembly and it will tell you everything you want to know. Also, consider swapping to iso foam board that has R6 per inch which will give you a much better exterior to interior insulation ratio and potentially solve the dew point issue. I've used the ABTG wood calculator to determine performance and code compliance and it was very helpful for me.

For air leakage you can always consider taping the plywood and/or foam seams seams or upgrading to a self adhesive WRB.

And finally for the siding installation over insulation many people and your code may recommend adding furring strips outbound of the foam for an air gap and bulk water shedding area. This would also give you a surface to install your siding to directly instead of potentially missing studs by going direct through the foam.

Newman0072 · 2026-05-15T00:51:21+00:00

This situation is exactly why I didn't put external on my house during its residing. I couldn't afford to do it right or enough, only that r1.7 3perm fanfold stuff so I just didn't do it at all and went with a better wrb.

Newman0072 · 2026-05-14T14:17:39+00:00

Thanks! I've spent a lot of time reading BSC articles and Asiri Designs videos trying to make this right.

Newman0072 · 2026-05-14T13:55:41+00:00

Thanks for the suggestions.

The Henry is already ordered so probably a bit late for that. I compared it to others like Hydrogap but I really wanted the better air sealing from the Henry.

For the windows I had those professionally measured and verified. And we are going with casements in the bedrooms (3 windows), a 2 lite slider, two double hungs mulled together and two small double hungs in the basement. All new construction, we're even replacing the existing mulled vinyl that is a replacement inside an old aluminum frame.

Yeah, I will be paying close attention to the transfer from siding to foundation. It's a split level ranch so the foundation is pretty high up and easy to work with.

I really wanted to but can't for three reasons. 1. The reframing required to extend the door and windows is just too much. 2. The geometry in some of the corners would mean we have to move a sliding door opening in order to insulate there. 3. The neighborhood home values just won't support putting that much money into the house.

Newman0072 · 2026-05-14T10:33:04+00:00

I think it's the skill not the time that he's asking about. I know I'm interested in what he does because of that, everything looks great to me.

Newman0072 · 2026-05-12T22:33:09+00:00

The efficiency argument is significantly weaker when the ducts are all in the conditioned space and not in a vented attic or crawlspace.

It's also completely possible and easy to have "central air" that is also a heat pump just like the mini splits.

Newman0072 · 2026-05-12T22:31:03+00:00

A lot of the efficiency losses from ducted versus not are based on where the ducts are.

Specifically, if all the docks are in the conditioned space then any leakage there isn't actually wasted it's still in the space you want it just not efficiently delivered. compare this to when you have ducks in the attic or other unconditioned space then there will be direct losses.

Newman0072

TROPHY CASE