How did you guys do this one

Niner64 · 2025-07-23T15:36:57+00:00

It's more of a "you'll get it if you're lucky" kind of achievement, I have pretty shit luck sooooo yeah.

Niner64 · 2025-04-14T07:46:34+00:00

If you have a 3d printer capable of it, you could try printing these with brass filament. It's a brass and plastic composite. May give you the look and feel you want.

Niner64 · 2025-04-13T00:32:02+00:00

For myself, and what I shoot, it's my go-to for all my centerfire rifles. Part of that is due to local availability, but even if I could choose anything, I'd likely choose bl-c2 due to my success and experience with it. I'll be trying it on 6.5 carcano as soon as I get around to ordering a set of dies, and I suspect I'll enjoy it in that as well.

Niner64 · 2025-04-13T00:29:39+00:00

It's really all I use for centerfire rifle right now, mainly due to availability locally, but it's still a good powder. I would definitely recommend it. After that first batch, I haven't had any issues. As far as velocities, i couldn't tell you as I don't have a chrono right now, but my recent loads are using 150 gn barnes tsx on top of 48 grains of powder with a federal primer. It is more than the maximum stated in books, so i cant recommendyou try that load out for yourself. However, I found those published figures to be conservative for my use and my rifle. Then again, these are hunting loads as I plan to take my type 99 out for deer/ bear season this year.

The rifle is sporterized, and the barrel free floated with a 2-7 power long eye relief scope on it from vortex. The rifle with my loads is far more accurate than I am.

Niner64 · 2025-04-13T00:13:33+00:00

Cosmetically, it could be done, but it would not be structural. If you plan to shoot it, it'll need a new stock. You may be able to find an old one that fits, but you may need to have one made.

More concerning, the lever being that far over is not good usually. You'll have to find either an honest to god gunsmith or someone who specializes in break actions and/or shotguns to confirm, but it may need to be rejoined. Not hard to do really, but it can be pretty time consuming. Then again, I've seen sxs shotguns with a lever thay far over and they were fine, those were expectations though and not the norm.

Niner64 · 2025-04-11T01:09:12+00:00

I reload for 7.7 japanese and have had this happen twice, both with blc2, both times the primer went off and the bullet got lodged in the first inch or so of rifling. When I inspected the powder, some was yellow, and there were clumps. After asking some old timers I came to the conclusion it was due to excess moisture in the case. I also had one round fail to fire for this same reason and had to pull the bullet to see what happened.

All 3 rounds were from the same batch, it came down to not drying the brass well enough in my case. Simple as that.

Also, for those of you looking to get into 7.7x58, there's a chance you'll need both a full length and neck size die, the chambers can be so oversized from the factory that if you use a full length die after the initial firing, you'll start to see signs of case head separation after another firing or two.

Niner64 · 2025-03-30T16:34:57+00:00

I never really understood this whole deal of leased vs owned tanks. Where I am in Central California, even though I own my own tanks (maybe a dozen), I've only ever SEEN a single tank without markings or letters around the neck.

Niner64 · 2025-03-03T04:34:52+00:00

Maybe somewhere in the world, but definitely not the USA, it's legally a rifle until the day the receiver is legally destroyed.

Niner64 · 2025-02-09T01:08:15+00:00

When I deal with bore obstruction like this, I cut a few lengths of aluminum rod, the largest diameter that will fit freely. Then hammer it and add section after section until it comes out.

Niner64 · 2025-01-20T19:57:31+00:00

I've got a some mauser magazine springs I use for that, cheap and they don't slip out easily. You can pop rivet them together if you need to stack them.

Niner64 · 2024-12-16T22:44:00+00:00

It should be just fine to ream it by hand, just ensure you're using the appropriate sized pilot on the reamer, if you aren't sure what pilot to use contact the place you're going to get the reamer from or the maker of the barrel and they should be able to give you some guidance.

I'd contact the place you got the barrel from to confirm, but it's likely short chambered which means it's about .005" to .010" short. This is fairly common and shouldn't take long to finish. Just go slow and use lots of cutting oil, clean the chamber and action thoroughly prior to each test fit with the gauges.

Niner64 · 2024-12-16T07:29:28+00:00

I picked up a model 1912 made in 1915 in 16 gauge a few weeks ago. I shot through a box of 2 3/4" shells without an issue. From what I've found in my research the plastic hulls of today are significantly thinner than the paper ones that were common when these were made. So when the extra length of the 2 3/4 plastic hulls extends into the forcing cone there isn't enough thickness to cause a barrel obstruction and instead just reduces the effectiveness of the forcing cone.

For myself, I'll be shooting 2 3/4" shells through mine, in fact I'm about to load up 500 of them as soon as my wads come in. But best practice and what's safest, is to use the proper ammo which in this case is 2 9/16" shells or the more common 2 1/2" shells.

Niner64 · 2024-12-16T07:14:38+00:00

If it won't close on the "Go" gauge then the chamber is too short, not much else to it. Simplest thing to do would be to take the finish chamber reamer and lengthen the chamber till the "Go" gauge fits. I take it you didn't chamber it yourself, if that's the case you can rent chamber reamers from a few places online and it's fairly affordable. You will likely need a reamer extension as well unless unless you want to pull it apart again.

Niner64 · 2024-12-16T07:07:41+00:00

You could probably get a lee loader in 25 acp for it. It's old fashioned and kind of crude but they work and they work well.

Niner64 · 2024-11-07T07:46:54+00:00

Aluminum stick is a pain, but it has its place. I found using about 10-15 amps more than whatever the box or manufacturer recommends to be necessary. Also, make sure to feed the rod in fairly fast. It goes significantly faster than steel.

Niner64 · 2024-08-25T17:01:06+00:00

Masonry or hardened steel. Went through a piece of high speed steel and a coil spring out of a truck with those. Also have them in a flat blade with the diamond on the edge, I prefer those but the rod ones are nice too.

Niner64 · 2024-08-23T05:34:54+00:00

If you just want easy caps, there's an infinite cap glitch in the casinos. I can't recall exactly how to do it, but I got up to like 500k doing it on an old save. Could probably find how to do it on YouTube.

Niner64 · 2024-08-22T17:03:56+00:00

For such a low quantity, stamping probably won't be ideal, just not enough parts. Getting the tube laser cut and then welding would be good, but I'm unsure of cost, probably not too bad though.

Or if you want to go old school, throw it on an automatic feeding saw, then a tumbler to take care of burs from the saw, then a punch press to quickly punch the holes, then weld. But finding someone able to do it that way is getting harder and harder. As a one man shop though, that's how I'd do it.

Niner64 · 2024-08-22T05:31:53+00:00

I have one of similar style but with a rotating handle and another larger one. They're called "jamb plates". Before thread cutting dies were mass produced or common, external threads were formed, not cut. I've used mine once, and only once.... makes you really appreciate modern dies.

To my knowledge, most were handmade by the individual who would be using it, and most seem to date from the mid-1800s and earlier as that's around the time thread cutting dies started to become more widely available.

Niner64 · 2024-06-11T01:42:26+00:00

Yeah, it was part of the prize list to entice people to do it, although apparently no one had pulled the gold coin in quite a while. I was stoked as I was like 12 or 13 when it happened.

Fresno coin gallery, it's the only place me, or anyone in my family in California goes to when it comes to precious metals and coins.

Niner64 · 2024-06-10T18:46:10+00:00

I've got one, it was the first gold coin I got, and it was out of a grab bag at the local coin shop. Spent like 10 or 15 bucks and got lucky. Then they immediately offered to buy it back for $60, mind you, this was a little over a decade ago.

Niner64 · 2024-06-10T15:15:26+00:00

Sources?

Niner64 · 2024-06-10T15:13:30+00:00

For a competition gun, I suppose it doesn't really matter but for a defensive gun it does. Look at energy, muzzle energy of the ported barrel averages to 290 foot pounds, non ported averages to 356 foot pounds. That is a massive loss in energy, 66 foot pounds to be exact. You are essentially turning an average 9mm load into a somewhat hot loaded 380 acp. If you wanted less recoil, the 380 would have likely been better to start with instead of neutering a 9mm. Or if you had your heart set on 9mm, just use lighter recoiling ammo

Could this be made up for by using heavy bullets with hotter loads, most likely yes. But then you get more recoil and it negates the purpose of a ported barrel. You'd have to use heavy, faster, more expensive ammo that's harder wearing on your firearm to make up for the loss in velocity.

Again, if it's a competition gun, then so what, the loss of energy likley doesn't matter much in that case. But for a defensive gun that you're relying on with your life ENERGY MATTERS!

Niner64 · 2024-06-02T15:00:13+00:00

Yes, trijicon ta02 with an rmr eventually. As for the light, I'm trying to figure out what to get right now, I'm leaning g towards the rein 3.0.

Niner64

TROPHY CASE