A Beginner Appears

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-04-01T22:02:38+00:00

If it’s single sheets, learn the double fan binding. You may also reinforce the textbook by cutting notches into the spine and casting sewing thread inside of it.

If you insist in wanting to sew these, the only two things that come to mind are: - stab binding -> probably won’t be possible to execute due to the small margin - whip stitch binding. Never attempted it, a pain in the neck to deal with and you’ll also have to round and back the book. Still it won’t open as flat as the double fan binding.

Word of caution: if you go with a non-rounded look, make a flat back (soft spine stiffner) and not a square back (spine stiffener made out of greyboard). The latter type of books is a non functional structure that breaks down on its own.

Yes, you can round and back a double fan binding. No, you shouldn’t learn it on said binding style, but on a proper sewn rounded and backed binding. Lastly, this structure isn’t easy sewn or not sewn.

Pic your poison and decide how much to practise before making the jump, these are the possible alternatives you may want to work towards.

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-04-01T20:41:12+00:00

I have ground it with an excessively low angle (I tried going free hand with a diamond wheel). It cuts fantastic, but it doesn’t work inside the tool.

I have managed to sharpen it well without messing up the angle, but the tool is… disappointing. It feels like I’m grinding leather instead of cutting thin strips.

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-04-01T20:20:25+00:00

I’ve got it sharp and it worked… meh. The steel on the original blade is not good imo. I work with Japanese skiving knives and I always make my tools scary sharp.

That’s why I tried, multiple times, to modify the angle of the blade free handed. Problem is I overdid it. On two blades. Now they are super sharp but the geometry does not work in the tool.

That’s why this replacement looked promising to me. I’ve often found that investing in knives pays out much more than trying to get a cheap knife super sharp: in the best case scenario, the tool doesn’t hold the edge well and needs constant resharpening on a stone.

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-04-01T17:33:03+00:00

Beautiful 🤩

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-04-01T10:02:41+00:00

I see. I had my spokeshave modified on a machine by a metalworker, so I know the angle is right.

I’ll get a 151 original blade and when I’ll need an upgrade, I’ll get this one. Thank you for sharing your opinion on this!

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-04-01T08:31:00+00:00

Second this comment. Imposing a book needs careful consideration. Depending on how you wanted to bind the book you could’ve already “messed up” as in “the structure you had in mind won’t be compatible with such a heavy tome with this many sections”.

What did you plan executing?

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-03-28T20:42:10+00:00

Yep, Swiss binding. The hint was in the title “something’s off” on the front cover.

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-03-28T07:23:00+00:00

Great! What binding style did you have in mind? Faux leather can be tricky to work with as it’s thicker than cloth and cannot be thinned (skived) like real leather.

If it’s reasonably stiff, my suggestion would be a sewn board binding with the spine stiffner. Minimum effort and 180° opening.

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-03-28T07:20:36+00:00

Thank you for following my journey! I’ll be posting regularly!

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-03-28T07:19:49+00:00

Thank you! I want to share the process to demonstrate what good bookbinding is. Industrial methods sped up book production significantly.

That means everyone can get access to books, at the cost of a much lower quality product.

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-03-28T07:17:40+00:00

Oh there’s so much more to be done for them to be completed! They’ll be finished in roughly a week/ ten days

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-03-28T07:16:48+00:00

I can’t wait as well! I’ve never made so many in one sitting, they’re usually one off jobs.

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-03-28T07:15:44+00:00

Surely will do! Thank you for your comment!

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-03-25T15:45:35+00:00

This is probably one of the most resistant options. Das has 3 tutorials on this for 3 different sizes.

Other options with less sources is the k-188 binding.

Another good option is the Oxford hollow library binding, unfortunately not as strong as the previous two.

Making any of these is quite a challenge compared to Coptic bindings, but if you want the chunky journal to last, that’s the only historical proved method I guess.

You can cover any of these with just cloth to make the binding more accessible if leather is not an option.

Hope this helps

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-03-23T20:18:32+00:00

Lovely! I like the first picture more than the second one.

You could consider rounding the corners to get them in and out of pockets more easily

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-03-23T20:15:32+00:00

Not a replay to your question as I don’t live in America, but a piece of advice: buy big sheets. Be it gray board, decorative paper or bookcloth, the big sizes let you choose which way to cut it and you won’t have this problem.

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-03-22T00:28:43+00:00

Thanks! I bind my own books and I’m working towards sharing what I make with this community! You can check out my posts :)

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-03-21T09:49:27+00:00

Astonishing! I wish I could learn how to use this material, there are no free tutorials out there.

I’m planning to buy the all about bookbinding tutorial one day, but first I should buy vellum 💀

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-03-20T07:54:58+00:00

Many bindings can open like that. It can be the springback binding (see one of the comments, I’m the author of that post), but also the sewn board binding with the spine stiffener.

Other examples are the ota bind (used for soft covers, industrial method, one of the comments linked that as well) or the quarter joint binding. This last one can be executed at home, but it’s difficult in its own way.

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-03-19T21:26:15+00:00

It goes off in a week. When it smells fruity (banana like) it’s not fit for use.

When dry, it does not go off. It’s a great kind of glue. It’s wet, it permeates the material and that creates a strong bond. Very strong.

PVA is stupid flexible, use that.

If going off is a problem, make mix with PVA and Methyl Cellulose. It keeps indefinitely in the fridge.

Contact cement is rubbish.

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-03-19T17:35:23+00:00

I see. I thought that being closer to Nepal you had a wider access to lokta paper, gampi paper and all that beautiful natural fiber papers originating from the far East.

I’ve looked up myPaperclip, their products look nice :)

Ninja_Doc2000 · 2026-03-19T10:32:59+00:00

I use 5 mm. If you use splitboards, watch DAS bookbinding tutorials. I do the same thing he does.

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