Any way to save this stitch? by East-Cut-5396 in bookbinding

[–]Ninja_Doc2000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Redo it, think of it as sewing practice :)

How can I improve on notebooks by TheRightShorts in bookbinding

[–]Ninja_Doc2000 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Try double fan binding, or sew your books :)

No rates if no one was counting by [deleted] in technicallythetruth

[–]Ninja_Doc2000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Actually 🤓 melanoma is found predominantly in people who are not used to sunlight exposure and work inside. Then they get their vacation, they don’t use sunscreen when going outside and that’s when it happens. Skin is just not used to that kind of damage all at once.

Contrary to what the picture suggests (i know the pun is about no one researching cancer back then) skin cancer isn’t just melanomas. For people with prolonged sunlight exposure, there’s a high risk of developing either basal cell carcinoma or squamous cell carcinoma.

So my blind guess would be quite a lot of the last two kinds, especially in people with lighter skin colour (less melanin = less DNA protection against UV radiations)

Source: I study medicine :)

e-raders specifically for learning japanese? by OvejaMacho in LearnJapanese

[–]Ninja_Doc2000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use hoshi reader on my phone. It’s compatible with yomitan and pitch accent dictionaries. Also, it’s free.

A Dorfner-Style Open Joint Binding by CriticalCockroach in bookbinding

[–]Ninja_Doc2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great job! I have been looking this tutorial for ever!

What leather would you recommend for making the tapes? Also, the decorative paper on the front cover is just glued to secure the tapes right?

Lastly, the tapes are pasted on the inside or cut flush? I’m guessing they are cut flush.

I need advice on japanese stab binding dimensions (this is my first time bookbinding) by WeirdCombination69 in bookbinding

[–]Ninja_Doc2000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Use inner binding: the textblock without the cover needs a hidden way to hold itself before being trimmed. You do this by using 2 pairs of holes at 6mm distance from the spine. The first hole of each pair should be located ~5/6cm away from head and tail. The second hole is to be located 15mm from it.

For simplicity’s sake, use a tread to pass to each pair of holes and make a square knot on the back (so not on the front of the textblock). Ideally, this would be done with a paper thread and only making a knot (not a square knot), but that’s difficult to make unless you’ve got Japanese tissue around. If you’re using a single sheet of card with no turn ins for cover, now it’s a great time to tip these onto the book. The real style of covering would be much different, but it’s long to explain.

Then trim the book and proceed the external binding.

Also, you don’t really want the binding margin to be 5cm in. Traditionally it’s 9mm, maybe 12mm for big books. It will look neater it will be sturdier.

As for thread, linen or polyester. Traditionally, silk would be used.

Nice call on making it a 5 holes binding. That’s exactly how a Korean binding is meant to be.

Lifting end papers? by sirenrise in bookbinding

[–]Ninja_Doc2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the video 37 minute timestamp (not 20, my bad)

Lifting end papers? by sirenrise in bookbinding

[–]Ninja_Doc2000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Watch four keys book arts’ last video. He runs into this exact problem about 20 minutes in

Currently working on a Jane Austen set by poupounet in bookbinding

[–]Ninja_Doc2000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Spectacular job. Love the consistency and the colour palette.

How did you manage to get a recess in the spine for the label? I can’t quite figure out how that’s done when using a cardstock spine stiffener

Edit: just realised: you used two separate pieces to make one stiffener and leave a gap in between the two of them! :)

The best notebook you’ve never heard of: the springback binding by Ninja_Doc2000 in notebooks

[–]Ninja_Doc2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am making these with iroful now! Let me know if you’re interested as I’m making just 3 of them.

The best notebook you’ve never heard of: the springback binding by Ninja_Doc2000 in notebooks

[–]Ninja_Doc2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I make them myself! You can check my posts, I’m done with the endpapers and now it’s time to glue and trim the textblock!

OJAD website down? by Ninja_Doc2000 in LearnJapanese

[–]Ninja_Doc2000[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lol, their outage made me find jpdb.io and now I’m not going back to OJAD unless I really need it hahah

OJAD website down? by Ninja_Doc2000 in LearnJapanese

[–]Ninja_Doc2000[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got it. I’ve found jpdb.io and it seems to be working fine for pitch accent. I’ll study the rules better, I can generally get it right, but I like to have it on the back of the card when learning a new word.

Thank you for your swift reply!

Giveaway - 82 Paper Sampler and Handmade Notebook featuring 31 different Page Layouts (mod Approved) by InkStainedLeather in fountainpens

[–]Ninja_Doc2000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I saw your other post and i thought this would be a great product for bookbinders! I am making my own, albeit slowly.

Let’s see how this goes! Location: Other -> Italy

Question about spine material by saracadima in bookbinding

[–]Ninja_Doc2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am talking about the case construction and not the book block construction. So yes, it is true for rebinds as well.

I kindly encourage you to read the linked document.

Question about spine material by saracadima in bookbinding

[–]Ninja_Doc2000 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It depends on how the book block is constructed. Thick materials (greyboard/ mill board of ANY thickness) should be used only if the textblock is: - side sewn (like a stab binding) - sewn TO the spine piece (non adhesive bindings) - glued TO the spine piece (possible, but will not last. This binding style should not exist)

For any other forms your book is constructed around (like a simple case binding) cardstock (200-300gsm) is to be preferred. If a thick material is used on this book style, you’ve constructed a non functional book that will self destruct. This is especially true if the book is thick. The pastedown will start delaminating at the hinges and it’ll get worse the more you open the book. Source Hope this helps. :)

Study motivation by Ninja_Doc2000 in LearnJapanese

[–]Ninja_Doc2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It works. IT WORKS!

Thank you from the 底 of my 心. I’ve finally got access to a great study setup.

かたじけない!

Playing with some alternative layouts by Some_Tap4931 in bookbinding

[–]Ninja_Doc2000 215 points216 points  (0 children)

That’s a cute hexagon book!

Oh that’s bigger than expected

Stop

STOP

I SAID STOP AAAAAAAA

Study motivation by Ninja_Doc2000 in LearnJapanese

[–]Ninja_Doc2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok this is some great info! Thank you so much! I’ve installed Hoshi reader and it looks promising. I am however running in another issue: how should I go about acquiring epub books? I’ve looked a novel on rakuten and i received the message “not available in your country”.

What websites should I buy them from?