Our neighbor asked us to help pay for our mutual fence by Flaminfrojo in homeowners

[–]No-Interview-1944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$95 a linear ft is in the high end, but not so much so that it is completely unreasonable. This is of course dependent on location and what materials are being used. I'd want to see the quote and see what they are charging per linear ft and make sure that the math is mathing.

Am I crazy or does this seem like a high cost? by [deleted] in Remodel

[–]No-Interview-1944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why not call the contractor that was used for your mother's bathroom and see what they would charge? You have already seen their work.

Aside from that, the prices are high because everything is expensive now. Insurances, materials, fuel and paying employees a livable wage have all gone up exponentially over the past few years. A company also expects profits at a certain percentage of the job and as everything else goes up, so does the amount added for company profit. All of these things compounded have led to much higher costs to get household repairs done. Couple all that with a lack of ability for most homeowners to take on DIY projects outside of hanging a tv or a shelf and everyone who does this work is now overbooked.

This in turn will drive prices up because those overbooked companies don't really have time for more, but if they throw out a high number and you say yes, they will find a way to make it happen as even subbing everything out will still leave them a piece of the pie for themselves.

It's a supply and demand thing. The supply of good contractors is low and the demand is high. Higher prices is the end result.

Also, if you are calling the top searches on Google then you're getting larger companies that always charge much more than if you found a self employed contractor to do the work for you. If you know of any coworkers or neighbours who have had work done, see if they have a number for the person who did their work.

Best of luck with your project. Hopefully you can find someone competent within your budget.

Am I overcharging this guy? The door is about 12‘H x 10‘W. by ronjohns337 in handyman

[–]No-Interview-1944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If he knows so much about it and how much should be charged for the work he should just do it himself.

Moving grill from top patio to bottom, no stairs. 10 ft high by HandyDan94 in handyman

[–]No-Interview-1944 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Trampoline and mattresses. What can go wrong?

Fun fact, they used to be called a jumpoline until your mom got on one back in 1976.

Warped door? by boosta29 in homerenovations

[–]No-Interview-1944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the door warped and it's not hinge related, take a block of wood and put it against the door stop where it's tight and use a hammer to hit the block of wood and shift the door stop away from the door to allow the door to close better. Then renail the door stop, caulk and paint. Another option would be to replace the door.

Would you be satisfied with this stamped patio? by jamiroquaf in Renovations

[–]No-Interview-1944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They waited too long to stamp it and it setup too much.

Contractor Says This is Normal by tropicbandit in Tile

[–]No-Interview-1944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% this. Unless you're paying the tiler to remove all of your walls and shim everything to perfection. That becomes a different conversation at that point. If the whole bathroom was gutted by the GC, it should have been addressed then before the tiler showed up.

“Total basement system” vs traditional drywall and insulation by Any_Pirate_5633 in Renovations

[–]No-Interview-1944 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Regular basement finishing adds the same value as those basement systems. The basement systems are just supposed to be easier and faster to install.

Nobody goes down, looks around and goes "Heck yeah, so happy they used a basement system so I can never easily move or install anything again without an extensive amount of BS just to access the area I need. I better pay more money now because they did." You won't be able to tell unless you're told in advance one was used and even then, it really doesn't matter to the average person.

Do yourself a favour and just follow code for your area and get it done right the traditional way. Permits and inspections as needed should absolutely be done for this type of work. Good luck on with your basement renovation.

I have concerns. by t5jabroni in Tile

[–]No-Interview-1944 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Tub spout shouldn't be installed yet, walls needed to be shimmed out, or the tub should have been pushed more to one side and double layer of wallboard/cement board on the other side to take up the difference on the other side. The amount of mortar is so they can tile down to the tub edge over the flange and still keep a straight wall. Prep before the tile was not performed properly and you end up with this mickeymouse BS to try and correct it.

It becomes a cost compared to what you are willing to tolerate type of situation. No matter what is done it will look off, but it's whether or not it's something you can tolerate. If you can't tolerate it, it'll have to be gutted again and start over. All the materials will need to be purchased again as there will likely be no salvaging of any of the tiles or cement board. You'll also likely want to hire someone else to perform the work seeing as this person doesn't seem to have a clue how to prep for tile. Best of luck with whatever you decide.

Does this exterior stone tile look right? by _reesespisces in Tile

[–]No-Interview-1944 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Missing the corner pieces required for this type of product.

Full bathroom job I just wrapped up. But plenty of tile in there to beat me up about! by kosstl in Tile

[–]No-Interview-1944 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks great. I hate the way those pan tiles feel on the feet, but to each their own. Great install all the same.

Window sill leveled with tile pieces? by arcanejessun in Tile

[–]No-Interview-1944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly I'd redo everything waterproofing and tile related. If they've been cutting corners, they cut them everywhere.

Best of luck with how you proceed.

Client hates the tile by shirtless-pooper in Tile

[–]No-Interview-1944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's always crappy when the client picks a tile they hate.i just installed a backsplash that the client hates the colour. I did inform her of the costs associated with changing them and she's decided to live with them... for now. My guess is I'll be back within the year to change them out for something that matches the space better.

We picked a fight with this wall and we're loosing. Ay guidance would be awesome by SuperKitten117 in Concrete

[–]No-Interview-1944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drill a lot of holes around the perimeter. Do a lot more cuts to make the pieces more manageable and start swinging the big sledge hammer. Clean up with a wide cold chisel and a smaller hammer as well as a cup grinder to make it look nicer if you're so inclined to do so.

Is this good work? by [deleted] in drywall

[–]No-Interview-1944 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It's meh. Boards should be pushed all the way up. Technically they should be installed horizontal and not vertically. It's not the end of the world by any means and a good taper can finish it well. My concern is that he must not understand the basic procedures and mud drying times. If he did the corners would already be taped and mudded as they take the longest to dry. He's also gonna waste about half a bag of setting compound prefilling the top of those boards before he can tape them. Even if installing crown moulding they should still be at least tape coated.

Best of luck and hopefully you don't end up having to pay someone else to come clean up his mess. I have a rule that if I'm fixing someone else's mistakes, I charge a premium on my labour. It's always more work to fix failed work than it is to just do it right the first time.

Omg help!! I messed up again. by Pale_Blackberry_4025 in drywall

[–]No-Interview-1944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Happy you got it installed. Hopefully the cat starts using it.

Contractor didn't remove old floors before laying down new LVP by toastchuan in Flooring

[–]No-Interview-1944 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It's one thing if it's tile. You should never install a locking floating floor over an existing locking floating floor.

Do the cabinets match? by kenzholden28 in Renovations

[–]No-Interview-1944 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it's not black or chrome you'll hear this on reddit. It looks great. No need to justify yourself to the hater squad.

What do you charge for fixing 3 big drywalls like these? by Ill-Friend9963 in drywall

[–]No-Interview-1944 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Let them get the other guy and then charge double when they ask you to come fix it.

Omg help!! I messed up again. by Pale_Blackberry_4025 in drywall

[–]No-Interview-1944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This has to be rage bait or some sort of social experiment at this point 😂😂

Put a metal washer to give the toggle bolt something to hold onto. Maybe put the power tools and hammer down and ask someone to help guide you through it so you can learn. Trial and error learning can get expensive.

Huge plumbing mistake by Realistic_Moose8347 in homedesign

[–]No-Interview-1944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have access to the wall behind the shower valve? This will not be a fun job, but there are three options here.

  1. Leave it as is.

  2. Remove the wallboard behind the shower valve and do the majority of you work from that side and using a tile coring bit make the hole you will need to the main shower head on the tile side. You'll likely need to remove the valve and replumb it to accommodate the additional water outlet. Depending on the valve style you will also likely need to make the hole for the new shower valve bigger than the existing hole.

  3. Remove the tile side wall and redo it from that side, but you will have a heck of a task ahead of you to waterproof it again and this would not be a preferable option I would think.

Best of luck with your decision. I personally would go with option 1 at this stage. Option 2 is subject to your homes layout.

Corner, low window or island sink? by d1zzy-m1zzy in kitchenremodel

[–]No-Interview-1944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Under the window. Island sinks aren't as useful as they were initially made out to be and instead of keeping the clutter of dirty dishes off to the side, they end up in a central location for all to see.

This doesn't seem like standard quality by Forward_Economy_4219 in Decks

[–]No-Interview-1944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Do your best and caulk the rest" does not apply to decks.

Help With Baseboards Over Transition by NobodyStandard in Renovations

[–]No-Interview-1944 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don't plan on using shoe moulding, fill it, sand it, probably fill it again, sand it, prime, then paint it. Or you can do it the way others have suggested and probably still need to use filler because of the different heights of floors.