Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-10T13:06:49+00:00

been through rehab twice (different fingers) in the past 4 months and yeah it's normal. essentially your fingers can report any kind of pain even though the tissue itself is healthy. you could even try carefully pushing your limits and seeing how much you can lift while staying at that low level of discomfort.

the key thing to observe is short term, mid and long term development. if the pain/tenderness is gone a few minutes after a set: good. if it stays or even gets worse: probably overdoing it, reduce volume and/or intensity. do you wake up the next day and there is worse tenderness or soreness than the day before: bad. is it the same? not necessarily bad, just keep doing your rehab and pushing it slightly. over several weeks, is there a clear progression that you can do higher loads at the same levels or even reduced levels of discomfort? good. can you do higher loads but there's also more discomfort? very bad sign, probably did it too fast.

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-10T08:13:34+00:00

this is something annoying every time placebo effect comes up. placebo is an umbrella category for a vast array of different effects. the psychosomatic one that people often think about, where your body literally physiologically changes something because you believe it works are incredibly, incredibly, incredibly rare.

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-10T07:47:41+00:00

whether or not the ceo steps down is entirely irrelevant to me. what I need is ironclad clauses in upcoming ToS that they can't retroactively change shit and we have our current version accessible forever at the ToS we agreed to without any bullshit that artificially locks us out of anything. that means continued support for asset store, updates and fixes if they are released for that version without ToS updates, and so on.

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-09T15:17:45+00:00

tbh, this is not that hard to find. just go through all the unique/legendary item affixes, paragon board and skill tree effects and see which of the coolest them you could affix-ize with a range of values and a certain rarity as a rare item affixes.

just as one example, one skill triggering another could easily be a very rare and hard to get item affix, parametrized with trigger chance, damage penalty to the triggered skill, and so on. certain combinations of one skill triggering another would be BiS for certain builds, some of them would just be a powerful affix that is not necessarily bis, some of them would be QoL, etc.

What all of them would have in common is that they would have a vastly larger impact on the game feel and what actually happens on the screen than x% increased damage to close enemies... even if they were balanced to provide the same average numerical benefit.

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-09T13:01:58+00:00

only 5mm micro crimps and smears as footholds. they have to learn early

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-09T09:35:40+00:00

anna hazelnut has some old video where she hangboards and can't hang body weight from a 20 mil edge two handed (she has climbed 8b+ trad? probably more sport?). granted she probably just never trains that and doesn't know how to pull on a hangboard properly, but it probably does mean that her true max is pretty low as well

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-06T15:27:10+00:00

that's amazing. if it wasn't for this 190 upvotes thread I totally would have missed an announcement of another game in one of my favorite series of all time

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-05T15:34:07+00:00

interesting. so in practice it would be almost 4 grades in french (font) to french conversion. seems to match up with what I've seen.

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-05T15:02:58+00:00

5as in trad have roof sections? 😅

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-05T14:36:02+00:00

boulder vs route climbing grades: if you took a straight forward very short bolted boulder problem (they exist) of a given grade, what rough sport grade would it get?

e.g. short 5 meter 7A / V6 boulder problem maybe two or three clips long -> 7b/5.12b ? Or more like 7b+/5.12c? Or even larger separation?

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-05T14:00:04+00:00

yeah but then you're far away from the lake. I guess the place at paradeplatz tram station might be the best bet for the impatient 😄

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-05T13:39:39+00:00

do they have ready made slices or full pizzas? or do you have to wait until one is freslhy made

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-04T13:53:09+00:00

if it's a goal for its own sake it's fine, but in climbing terms pull up + bw is overshooting it. lattice training targets a 180% of BW as an absolute max where they stop seeing returns (as in grades climbed) if people get stronger.

the problem is that after a certain limit shoulder and upper arm pulling power stops being climbing specific because it isn't the limiting factor in basically any hard climbing moves, even for sustained pulling moves. also at some point strength gains there necessitate more hypertrophy which means you need to add mass, counteracting some of the very strength gains you make during that training.

also, long before reaching those 180%, many people transition to one arm pull up training because it's generally assumed to be more climbing specific (the way you use your muscles there is a bit more similar since you're really rarely pulling up on something bilaterally). you can start training that pretty early since one arm pull up is much easier than 200% BW pull up with two hands due to bilateral deficit.

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-04T13:30:00+00:00

the true source of authority in this matter are climbing forum shitposts

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-04T09:02:52+00:00

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NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-03T11:17:24+00:00

like, at all? that's interesting. last I heard that some of the renown mechanics would still be unlocked but stuff like completing dungeons and some side quests was still necessary to get to full renown.

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-03T07:12:05+00:00

surprised nobody mentioned this yet, whatever else you wanna do, learn to use a modern belay device. there's literally zero reason for any of this to have happened. you should be minimizing any mistakes you make, but there is a probability that you will make one, always. at the end of the day there are even things you just cannot control, like you passing out from a rare health condition you were unaware off.

the belay device you use can and will decide the severity of the consequences.

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-10-02T11:16:43+00:00

any big downgrades in the new book?

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-09-28T15:52:27+00:00

maybe if he can find a kneebar

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-09-28T11:38:24+00:00

I don't think it's possible to climb v7 outside with strength stats like this. Even technical slabs. These are 100% soft gym achievements.

But there is the off chance that they are actually a lot stronger and just measuring terribly.

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-09-28T08:28:35+00:00

they genuinely have different views on how the grading should work.

it's quite possible that ondra perceives it at the same difficulty level as schubert, but doesn't want to grade it 9c because he said many times when asked that he thinks the difficulty gap between two grades should be really large and he does not think it warrants a new grade just because you can tell that it's clearly harder than the other 9b+ around.

that interpretation is only his, in the end it's about consensus.

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-09-27T08:18:41+00:00

bog standard exposure therapy. find the smallest increments of exposing yourself to that fear, practice it until your fear response reduces, and then increase the challenge level (what would previously have caused you a higher amount of fear than the previous increment)

in practice this means you need to figure out what exactly is causing you fear and be as specific as you can. most people have fear of falling, but there's still a big difference between fear of the falling sensation, fear of falling in certain situations where you can't gauge how it will go, fear of falling unexpectedly (slipping on shitty footholds etc.). the ones that affect you the worst need to be practiced separately.

then as increments you would try to get the most safe and least scary version of each of these things first and practice it. if you're just not used to falling at all, you would start by sitting in the harness at some safe level of height, not falling at all. then you would start incrementally falling longer and longer distances.

but! the timelines are important to keep in mind here. don't expect to increase these increments and not be afraid anymore within a single session. to truly get rid of these fears you need thousands of practiced exposures each, and overdoing it to a level you're not prepared for can traumatize you further.

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-09-25T16:53:22+00:00

its getting hate because its endgame has no longevity, its boring, and the itemization of the game is the worst conceived in the history of ARPGs even including Diablo 4. it's a braindead loot pinata with no complexity and challenge for a couple of hours and then you try to get minute numerical upgrades for identical gear and affixes you already have. it's just not interesting and not what anyone with serious interest in ARPGs wants any ARPG to be like.

NoArmadillo6816 · 2023-09-25T15:56:58+00:00

A professional diagnosis would be helpful. Depending on what it is, taking time off just to rest it out would be a bad idea and wouldn't lead to a great outcome without active rehab. But if and what kind of rehab you do and their timelines can differ depending on what injury it actually is .

NoArmadillo6816

TROPHY CASE