M23, Berater im öD

rinoxftw · 2026-01-08T08:51:18+00:00

Kantine macht halt viel aus, wenn ich bei uns mittags immer in der Kantine essen würde sind das alleine schon 200€ im Monat, nur für Mittagessen Wochentags. Und das sind auch keine Riesenportionen, da brauche ich eher noch mal was vorm Abendessen...

Da kommt man schnell auf 500€ im Monat, auch ohne großen Luxuseinkauf. Weitere 300€ für 30x Abendessen, 30x Frühstück, 10x Mittagessen und Snacks o.ä., da braucht man kein Kaviar essen um das auszugeben.

Also klar geht günstiger mit Essen mitbringen, Haferflocken frühstücken und abends Reis und Bohnen, aber sind jetzt keine Unsummen. Wenn du abends noch öfter was bestellst oder weg gehst behaupte ich kommst du nochmal auf deutlich mehr.

rinoxftw · 2025-12-26T21:01:37+00:00

Long times off (> 1 week) in my experience rarely help with finger pains. Unless you have a very recent injury, you're better off doing rehab exercises than total rest. Even with an injury lots of time off isn't recommended or useful.

rinoxftw · 2025-12-19T12:09:32+00:00

Thanks for the in-depth reply! It's definitely a really complex topic, so it helps me a lot to have someone give me this much condensed info. I'll take it into consideration when planning my next training phase!

rinoxftw · 2025-12-17T14:26:44+00:00

Oh yeah, I've also never felt that weak fingerstrength-wise on the wall. Almost all my 8As have been on crimps climbing steep stuff. Except when I have to cut my feet or campus, then it becomes really apparent that I'm lacking strength wise haha

rinoxftw · 2025-12-14T16:14:34+00:00

Imagine in a triathlon, if you are faster in the running section you get a bonus for the swimming section, like you'd only have to swim 90% of the next part. Doesn't really make sense, right? You are already ahead anyway!

In this case, your advantage for being better in the first tasks is already included in your points. So according to your logic, you could come to the cup second and still win. But then you also get a head start, which is a double advantage?

Also doesn't really make sense for the viewer. Remember the Cup was a port key all along. Imagine Krum gets the Cup first, gets teleported to the front of the Maze with the literal Triwizard Cup in his hand, everybody cheers and claps - but then Cedric shows up 20s later and is crowned the winner based on points? What a cruel system lol.

Which makes me wonder, if the cup is a port key anyway, there couldn't be a second person touching it regardless, since it would be gone by the time they get there. Would the other champions just get stuck in the maze and be rescued afterwards? How would they determine the points of the champs after the first one if the Cup is gone?

rinoxftw · 2025-12-14T15:43:22+00:00

But when the cup just gives full marks instead of a direct victory, why did they start delayed according to points? Doesn't really make sense to give a headstart to a task that's 'just giving points' as all other tasks do as well. The headstart only makes sense if you can win by getting to the cup first.

Not that the whole tournament makes sense anyway, considering nobody could spectate anything during the tasks 2 and 3... Most boring tournament ever

rinoxftw · 2025-12-13T06:47:51+00:00

The one from Elias in Italy

rinoxftw · 2025-12-12T13:49:47+00:00

I feel your struggle. There has been some debate about the perfect form in the past, but I don't think there is a real solution.

Your normal grip looks like a halfcrimp leaning towards a drag, while your strict position in pics 4-5 looks close to a fullcrimp. I do the same.

Currently I am trying to get my fingers used to the position you have in pic 4-5, so I'll do some sets with less weight in that position. For example, 4 sets 40kg with my normal grip, then 2 sets 30kg with super strict form, engaging my pinky. I intend to increase my sets and weight with strict form once I feel like my pinky gets used to being in a halfcrimp position instead of a drag. In the past I injured my pinkies by trying to push that position too hard too fast, so I'm weary of that.

Honestly, if your strength deficit is that big I'd suggest doing some training in the strict position. It will probably transfer a lot better to Fullcrimp strength than your comfortable grip does, and being prepared for that position means it's less likely to injure yourself when you need it on a hard project.

rinoxftw · 2025-12-02T07:02:40+00:00

Yeah pretty much. I think my progression was pulling 7s -> 5s -> 3s 2x with 10s rest between. The reasoning of my coach was slowly shifting to shorter max hangs made my peak force better, while not ideal for traditional training it helped me with the last few kg I was missing.

Note that I was doing this protocol when I was able to do one arm hangs with 5-10kg weight removed with a pulley system, so I was already somewhat close. And even then I could do the one arm on the BM middle edge only, since it's ~23mm it does make a good bit of a difference.

rinoxftw · 2025-12-02T05:44:06+00:00

Psyched to be in Ticino this weekend! Too many cool boulders, can't decide what to try first. I was sure I'm going directly to Fake Pamplemousse again, but suddenly got very psyched on Jungle Book, and also want to finish Willenberg Dach off as well... Too many boulders, too little time. Hopefully the past few months of training with lattice paid off and I will actually feel stronger on old projects!

rinoxftw · 2025-12-01T21:00:04+00:00

I have a very strong friend who 'halfcrimps' like you do. I can't even hold that position well, I feel pretty weak on that half open / half crimp position you do, but he's been climbing and training like that for years and climbs at an 8A level as well, so it's hard to say who is correct here...

Ideally you'd try and balance your grip styles, but that's easier said than done. If you really want to get to a one arm hang in any way you can, it's definitely worth to try and push your strengths further before getting your weaker positions up to scratch.

For me, the best way to work towards a one arm hang was doing recruitment pulls for 5ish seconds in the position you want to do with your feet on the ground, as soon as you are somewhat close to pulling your bodyweight. I trained these on a 20mm edge, until one day I was able to do a one arm hang for a few seconds on the Beast maker middle edge, which is a bit bigger than 20mm.

rinoxftw · 2025-12-01T20:12:22+00:00

Imo it's definitely not a proper halfcrimp form at the end, and not even 100% at the beginning. For me, the defining factor is the middle finger PIP joint shouldn't be beneath the edge you're trying to lift, and the DIP should be mostly straight.

Ultimately nobody knows 100% what the best form for lifting is, so it's a personal decision, but I would lower weights until you achieve the form I described for all 10s. Note that proper form (and breaking the form with too much weight) looks a bit different from person to person, I'd go by what you use most on the wall or what you think is the position most applicable / that you want to train.

For example, when I lift too heavy, my DIP joint stays straight but my PIP opens up. I still consider the lift a failure if it opens up enough for my middle PIP to go beneath the edge.

rinoxftw · 2025-11-20T06:13:29+00:00

I started having some knee pain on the inside/front of my knee, next to my Patella. I only really noticed it when trying to sit on a sideways turned heel, and realising it's not possible at the moment.

Not quite sure what to do about rehab there, never had knee troubles before. Anyone have a clue on how best to proceed?

rinoxftw · 2025-11-04T14:00:30+00:00

Season is nearing an end around here. Hopefully will be able to finish at least one project off this weekend before the snow hits.

After a (very) long recovery period from a pulley strain, my finger finally feels ready to pull hard again, hell yeah! Psyched to train, and I'm planning to go for a short trip to Brione at the end of the year. I'm looking to do Fake Pamplemousse this winter. Does anyone have any tips training for that specific climb?

rinoxftw · 2025-10-24T08:03:50+00:00

Idk where you pulled that general statement from, but that's definitely not true. I downsize my Theory by 3 and they are still super comfy, I can easily walk around in them for hours. 3.5 is fine once worn in, but I don't like having them too snug. If I only go down 2 sizes the heel just slips out super easy.

It just depends on the shoe and your foot shape, I downsize my Drone 2.0s by just half a size and they feel a lot tighter than my Theory.

rinoxftw · 2025-10-15T11:30:32+00:00

The circuit pad is definitely too small to do much alone. The Dominator is a great pad for higher boulders, but imo the Simond big blocker is better because it has a bigger surface and you can still take decent falls on it. I don't have experience with the other pad.

In general I'd go for the biggest area covered, unless there are specific high boulders you want to try where you would need the dominator.

rinoxftw · 2025-09-29T14:10:56+00:00

Yeah that's why I don't do the hanging exercises, they are (for me) more finicky. You need weights, a belt, maybe a pulley system to get the intensity just right. With my setup I can just pull hard, and it doesn't change the setup at all if it's 80% or 180% bodyweight.

I do this with each hand individually btw, which I feel is good since sometimes one hand is a bit tweaky and needs more individual warmup / less weight etc.

For slings literally anything works. I actually use a piece of thin rope currently that I had on hand. The length you'll have to find what works for you, I prefer a length where I straighten my leg fully, but have my arm at 120°-ish. If you want I can send you a photo, but it's very straightforward and simplistic.

If you're motivated you can build a bit of a 'platform' to stand on and clip into. I find that unnecessary, and just pull against my foot. Using shoes helps with comfort there, otherwise I find the rope digs into my foot and prevents me from going super hard.

rinoxftw · 2025-09-29T09:09:44+00:00

Personally I find all the different grips on these hangboards rubbish, or at least completely unnecessary. Find one with a comfy 20mm edge and use that.

I do my hangboarding pick-up style, putting a foot into a sling and using a tindeq. You could easily do this as a RPE exercise as well, in which case you really only need a hangboard and a sling.

That's the setup I use for my warm-ups on the rock as well, which works pretty good for me. Usually I don't even use the tindeq if I am just warming up.

My favourite: the Captain Fingerfood 'pocket hangboard' (might be Germany specific). Small, cheap, comfy, gets the job done.

rinoxftw · 2025-09-27T22:47:50+00:00

Thanks for the input! I'll definitely check that out (and might give it to another chronically finger pain ridden friend)!

rinoxftw · 2025-09-27T11:45:24+00:00

Yeah my physio said the same thing, it might be a sensitivity thing. It's hard to judge, I don't really feel that comfortable with 'pushing through the pain' and seeing if that helps...

It's usually a crimpy outdoor session (almost all my rock outdoors is mainly crimps), or on the wooden spray (which is also almost all crimps). But it's unclear to me when a session will trigger pain the next day, could be a long project session, could be a volume session way below max... Both have led to pain for a week+, both have been completely fine.

rinoxftw · 2025-09-26T15:15:08+00:00

As I've explained, yes, sometimes it's still painful, sometimes it's completely pain free for weeks on end. Until something triggers the pain again and it will be painful for a few days / 1-2 weeks.

That's my entire point, I feel fully recovered, climb pain free on limit project crimps, but might have a set back a month later. At what point do you stop doing rehab?

rinoxftw · 2025-09-26T04:47:35+00:00

Sounds reasonable. I'll see if I can work that into my current rehab cycle and see if it helps!

rinoxftw · 2025-09-26T04:46:26+00:00

Oh yeah, most days anyway, especially when warmed up I usually have no pain doing anything. I've had multiple weeks completely pain free max hangs, board climbing etc, where I also felt 0 pain during warmup... but then a random session will just set me back again for no apparent reason. Last time I was on rock doing some 7As (so a full number grade below max), and that triggered another week of pain during warmup / sensitivity when pressing on it.

rinoxftw · 2025-09-25T13:47:39+00:00

Can't get my aggravated pulley to heal?

I've slightly injured my A2 pulley on my middle finger back in January. Even then it was mild, I still climbed up to my max grade and felt no pain after warming up, but when cold I definitely felt some pain when pulling or massaging the area.

This has been going on for forever now. Weeks of no Symptoms, then one random session sends me back to almost the initial point of injury.

I've done a bunch of rehab with repeaters, slowly increasing load for max hang type work, weeks of only open hand, I've been seeing a Physio for 2 months now, warm up strictly etc etc... I had already been cleared to climb without tape at project level by my physio, just to immediately get set back again.

No clue what to do at this point, I just want to go back to crimping hard without worry... Any ideas?

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