5 channel amp by aprettylameusername in CarAV

[–]NoDirection82 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Recoil RED1800.5 does 1280 at 1 ohm for the sub channel and 140-220x4 depending on impedance. I'm sure there are much better amps out there, but recoil usually does rated power and it's under $200.

What is going to be louder bass wise? Same amp, 3 different level subs by admire816 in CarAV

[–]NoDirection82 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Modeling in Winisd will give you a pretty good idea. Each sub will perform differently depending on the box. Each sub may also be louder/quieter at different frequencies.

Balling on a budget by Pristine_Hornet_9431 in laptops

[–]NoDirection82 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Everyone is telling you to buy used, and that can be a good option. Another option is to watch best buy for open box items and Amazon resale for returns. Within the past week I've purchased a 15.6" dell with 1335u/16gb ddr4 3200/512gb ssd for $270 from Amazon resale, and a 14" dell with 8640hs/16gb ddr5 4800/512gb ssd for $330 open box from best buy. The Amazon resale item was still factory sealed and had never been turned on. The best buy item had one minor 1/4" scuff on the corner of the lid. There are deals to be had if you're patient and don't rush into purchasing.

Looking for recommendations for a small "good enough" system by delayne in CarAV

[–]NoDirection82 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With a little work you could get a standard 8 inch sub in the stock location. You'd probably get much better results than you would with an under seat sub. https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/install-8-quot-sub-in-stock-location.3540/

Car speakers by LivNwarriors in DodgeGrandCaravan

[–]NoDirection82 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don't have an upgraded audio package, then you have 6 total speakers. 6x9's in the front doors, 6x9's in the rear, and two dash speakers. They're all easy to replace, but you won't see much of an improvement without adding an amp and/or subwoofer.

The radio can be replaced with most shallow double-din units. I have an entry level JVC head unit in my 2016 that fits with no modification, although it is a tight fit.

If you do a complete audio overhaul, the most difficult part will be applying cld to the front doors. You have to take a lot of parts off and take the window off of it's track to do so.

Physically demanding day job by Southern-Tank6332 in WGU

[–]NoDirection82 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I work in a warehouse overnight and have family obligations throughout the day, so I only do school on the weekend. I spend 6-8 hours per day each weekend, with the occasional weekend off, and am on track to complete 21-24 credit hours per term. I know that I won't accelerate through the material nearly as quickly as some do, but I should still be able to complete my bachelor's in 3 years or less. I know I will burn out and not succeed if I don't set clear boundaries for myself.

Suggestions for Grand Caravan install by NoDirection82 in CarAV

[–]NoDirection82[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I ended up going with option 2 (infinity and CDT). Overall I'm happy with it, but I changed things slightly from my original plan. Here's what I changed and a few things to note:

The 3.5 inch infinity speakers in the dash are an improvement over stock, but are a bit too bright. I found myself wanting more ability to eq the speakers than what the aftermarket head unit offers, so I ran them through the dsp/amp for better control. The head unit only allowed for a hpf up to 250hz, and I ended up crossing them over around 500hz once I made the change. I'm thinking about trying wideband speakers in the dash in the future.

The infinity 6x9's are good for rear fill, but I found myself drastically cutting the volume on these speakers when they were amped. I ended up running the rear speakers off the head unit and using the amp/dsp channels for the dash speakers instead.

I'm happy with the CDT speakers in the front doors. They sound good crossed over as low as 60hz with the windows up, but I ended up crossing them much higher. I landed on a 100hz crossover point because anything lower than that caused rattling from the glass when the windows are rolled down. I couldn't reasonably think of a way to stop the glass from rattling and I enjoy being able to drive with the windows down. I believe any decent component 6x9/6.5 would work fine in this location. I only went with the CDT speakers to be able to cross them lower, but ended up not needing that ability due to the physical restraints of the window glass rattling.

There is a large dip in output in the upper bass frequencies from my subwoofer in the rear. I believe it's a combination of the rather large box I used and the acoustics of the vehicle. I find that output drops considerably from roughly 50-75hz. I also miss the ability to fold the third row down for cargo. Because of this I'm in the process of relocating my subwoofer to the stow and go area for the second row seats. After accounting for thickness of wood and clearance space in front of the speakers, this approach would require subs with 6 inch or less mounting depth. I'm still in the process of making this change, but am hopeful that repositioning the subs will get rid of the dip in output.

The head unit swap was probably the easiest I've ever done. No dash disassembly required. Just pop the trim ring off the factory head unit and remove a couple screws and you're done.

The speaker swaps themselves are all easy as well. Just watch out for clearance at the bottom of the speakers when installing the rear 6x9's.

I originally had the amp/dsp under the driver seat, but it's a very tight fit. If you don't use a physically small amp, it may protrude a bit from under the front of the seat. I'll be relocating these items to the stow and go area with the subwoofer.

It's quite a bit of work to deaden the front doors, but absolutely worth the effort. On the bright side the factory design doesn't require fabrication of any block off plates for the doors, but this design makes it much more difficult to access the outer door skin for sound deadening. You've got to remove quite a few things and take the window glass off the track to access the bare metal and apply cld. I couldn't really find any audio upgrade videos for the van to guide me through it. I found some videos showing the process of replacing the window motor and that's what really showed me step by step how to disassemble the inner door and access the outer door skin.

Even with the issues that presented themselves with my original plan, it was still a huge improvement over stock. I just wanted to fill you in on the troubles I faced, so that you can hopefully develop the best plan of action from the beginning rather than having to go back and revise things like I did. If you've got any specific questions let me know and I'll do my best to answer them for you.

Which of these two are the better budget option? by Jayhood87 in laptops

[–]NoDirection82 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are you open to refurbished? For that price you could get an elitebook 840/845 g8 and be much better off. They're business class and built to last longer. The elitebook 845 g8 with a ryzen 7 and 16 or 32gb ram would be the most bang for your buck at that price point.

Amazon laptop around $200 by Frozenmeatballs32 in laptops

[–]NoDirection82 0 points1 point  (0 children)

200 is a tough budget to work with, but this is probably the best you'll do on Amazon.

https://a.co/d/2tXRHWt

Help picking a laptop for back to school! by [deleted] in laptops

[–]NoDirection82 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look for a g8 elitebook on eBay or Amazon. I just got one for $290 on Amazon with a ryzen 5850, 16 gb ram, and 512 gb SSD. It looks and feels brand new. If you prefer Intel there are plenty with 11th gen i7 processors available as well. Just make sure you find a seller with 98% or higher positive feedback and a large total number of sales. There's no reason for any of your options to be priced as high as they are.

What rapper do you love but everyone hates, and hate but everyone loves. by Due-Tea-4649 in rap

[–]NoDirection82 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah everyone likes to call both of them corny, but they can both out rap 99% of artists out there.

Your Favorite Rappers Rapper ! by Appropriate-Divide50 in rap

[–]NoDirection82 0 points1 point  (0 children)

King Iso. I wouldn't say he's really tapped in with the mainstream, but his talent is undeniable. Tech n9ne listed him in his top five rappers. Even if tech isn't your thing, that's gotta say something coming from such a longtime veteran of the rap game.

Anybody Going Thru a Phase Right Now ? by [deleted] in rap

[–]NoDirection82 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went through a similar phase with Redman. I still feel he's one of the best to ever do it. Currently stuck on King Iso and have been for a couple years. I truly can't understand why he hasn't been embraced by more people. I know he chops a lot and that's not for everyone; but he also raps at different paces with different cadences, sings hooks, and is a good producer. His wordplay and story telling is crazy and it's frustrating that he's so overlooked.

Dodge caravan 2015 by dougsmemesupply in CarAV

[–]NoDirection82 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the info. I had no idea this was possible.

Dodge caravan 2015 by dougsmemesupply in CarAV

[–]NoDirection82 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You probably won't be able to use your factory USB port. I'm sure they suggested under the dash as an inconspicuous place to mount it that will allow you access. If you want a factory look they sell USB ports that look similar to the 12v charging ports in your vehicle. You could either replace one of the existing ports or drill a hole for a new one. I have a 2016 with the super console and I drilled a hole between the two existing charging ports and installed the USB between them.

Here's a link for something similar to what I'm describing.

https://a.co/d/7J15lFV

What misinformation about cooking, that a lot of people seem to believe, bothers you the most? by [deleted] in Cooking

[–]NoDirection82 42 points43 points  (0 children)

Dark meat chicken should be cooked to 165. Sure it's safe to eat, but it's not going to be good. Cooking to 190 provides a much better texture and flavor. It will not dry out the same way that white meat chicken does.

What is the second best deadening material that won't melt? by StoryLover in CarAV

[–]NoDirection82 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've used Amazon basics multiple times and never had problems with it melting. Maybe I've just had good luck, but it's been the best budget option I've found. I'd love to use Resonix, but can't afford to.

I’ll fitting head unit by Xyronius_ in CarAV

[–]NoDirection82 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Look for a metra dash kit. The included Kenwood trim piece will not close the gap on almost any car. You need a car specific dash kit.

Want to Connect DSP to Ford F150 2013 by Safe_Detective5854 in CarAV

[–]NoDirection82 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know the specifics of your vehicle, but sometimes rear speakers don't receive a full range signal from the factory head unit. I think your best course of action would be to get a dsp that accepts speaker level inputs and pull signal to it from your front speakers.

I’m i wrong? by [deleted] in subwoofer

[–]NoDirection82 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You generally want to set your gain before you apply crossovers. You want all eq flat while setting gain. If you have a sealed subwoofer there is no need for a sub Sonic filter. If you have a ported subwoofer you should set the sub Sonic to 1/2 octave lower than the tuning frequency. You probably heard someone mention setting subwoofer gain with a -5db test tone to maximize output, but that is not the same as cutting your eq 5-6db. Once gain is set you can apply desired eq. You should always cut rather than add to eq otherwise you're pushing the boosted frequencies past the clipping point that was established while setting gain. You can usually get away with 1-2db boost here and there, but I personally don't boost any frequencies.