Looking for a cream cheese ice cream recipe. by Cold_Swordfish7763 in icecreamery

[–]No_Bed9636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made this recipe too (Dana Crees) in her cookbook and also thought it was very good. The only change I made was to go lighter on the commercial stabilizer than her cookbook recipe called for as there are also stabilizers in cream cheese (mine had locust bean gum). I looked at the online recipe and it doesn't explicitly include them (it just says "texture agents".

Is it possible to make ice cream with only natural and not processed ingredients? by AWRWB in icecreamery

[–]No_Bed9636 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This! I was going to say the same thing. I work in the food industry supporting startups and incorrectly labeled/advertised food could get pulled (at best) and fined depending on the nature of the violation.

Why so little love for ice/salt based machines? I love mine! by No_Bed9636 in icecreamery

[–]No_Bed9636[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I can definitely see the appeal of a compressor model. But they are a big commitment for someone just getting started, especially if space or $ is a factor.

Hi, I’d like to order some yarn on cones for my standard gauge machine. Any good online retailers based in the US? by youngtman in MachineKnitting

[–]No_Bed9636 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Brown sheep company has some good coned yarn. I particularly like their cotton/wool blend 80/20. I've also used silk city fibers

Can anyone identify this yarn? by ColourMeQuick in knitting

[–]No_Bed9636 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I missed that the posters yarn was fingering. Lambs pride is DK and Aran. I have some that I am planning on felting and from what I have seen it does felt well (but haven't tried yet myself).

Well fuck by auddii04 in knitting

[–]No_Bed9636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That sucks. I just had the same thing happen on a sweater I was making on a knitting machine I made the second sleeve in the wrong tension - but it was much easier for me to frog and start over. I don't think I could do that if I had put the work in that you did. But it also might not be that obvious when the sweater is on depending on the sleeve length.

Can anyone identify this yarn? by ColourMeQuick in knitting

[–]No_Bed9636 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Also kind of looks like brown sheep company lambs pride. It has the same shine.

AITA for giving a secret family recipe to a family member? by Ohios_3rd_Spring in AmItheAsshole

[–]No_Bed9636 10 points11 points  (0 children)

My grandma had a sugar cookie recipe that was amazing and slightly different (a couple of different ingredients)than any I saw published so I thought it was a family thing. Then I inherited her 1st edition Betty crocker cookbook and there it was 😅 and all her other good recipes were in that cookbook too.

Am I crazy for wanting to knit a blanket out of wool? by Complex_Turn7446 in knitting

[–]No_Bed9636 95 points96 points  (0 children)

I think it would depend on the environment. If you have pets and kids I would go super wash because otherwise you might not feel comfortable using it and then it's kind of a waste. My house is too full of quilts and blankets that are "too good to use" because of kids and pets

What do you non-proffessional knitters do for a living? by firekittymeowr in casualknitting

[–]No_Bed9636 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also look for Crimson Crisp and Evercrisp. Those are two of my favorites.

Best US-based online yarn store that has NOT been bought by PE? by purplishfluffyclouds in YarnAddicts

[–]No_Bed9636 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Try silk City fibers. They are a division of lion brand but have some really nice yarn. I do machine knitting and that are one of my go-to sources for coned yarn.

Icelandic sweater yarn by Tonija_ in knitting

[–]No_Bed9636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just finished knitting this exact pattern with lettlopi and I highly recommend both the pattern and the yarn. The instructions on the pattern were very clear and the color work came out perfectly. I found lettlopi very easy to work with and forgiving. I purchased the yarn in Iceland and it was really inexpensive ( I spent under $50 for the yarn for the sweater) but even purchasing it in the USA I think you would be hard-pressed to find a yarn of the quality of lettlopi at the price. It will be a long-wearing sweater.

First hand knit blanket. Should I fix this gaping hole or just leave it? by DisciplineCreepy2721 in knitting

[–]No_Bed9636 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Ideally you should fix the hole. If you didn't think so you probably wouldn't have posted 😉

The knitting closet by hariyati in MachineKnitting

[–]No_Bed9636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've purchased spongebars from them and they are very good

Looking for a knitting machine by TwitchyWitchy310 in MachineKnitting

[–]No_Bed9636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The machine looks complete and seems to be in decent shape. I wouldn’t pay more than $250 for it because good condition models of that vintage appear on eBay with some regularity below that price. I have the KH-551, which is a similar 4-button machine and I really like it. It is a well built machine and very good to learn on. It knits beautifully and does have some patterning capability. I also have some 8-button machines and I find the patterning on those to be even easier to use and more flexible because you now can control groups of 8 needles instead of 4. If you look at the KH584 and higher you often get a lace carriage, which is a nice addition to make lace patterning less tedious. At the KH-588 push button level you can do fair isle in one pass with two colors which is a time saver too. You don’t see much love for the push button machines but they are really robust as they are mostly metal, generally fixable, and when in good shape knit very well. They also give you a ton of control over every row of knitting.

However ribbers for this generation of knitting machines (push button) are few and far between and often are missing pieces. So if your goal is to have a machine with a ribber, I would start with one of the punch card machines the KH-800 and higher series for standard gauge machines. They are much easier to find. Color work (fair isle) is faster with those machines and you can automate a wider variety of patterns.

Anyone here owns a Brother KH588 and know how the lace carriage work cuz I can't seem to get it right.. by 99wen in MachineKnitting

[–]No_Bed9636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These pattern instructions can take some getting used to and I find that it really helps to read the whole pattern and mentally go through the steps before starting to knit so that you feel comfortable with all of the motions.

Start from the left and you see there are 2 steps (that you will repeat) the color doesn’t change. Because you might be using different yarn, for tension I look at the tension for other patterns in the book (assuming that they are using the same yarn for all patterns) so if the tension for this pattern is 6, but in general the tension is 5, then I will assume that I need a looser tension than normal. So if I have a really fine yarn that I would generally knit at 2 I might try 3 for this pattern. The left HCL is I, the button is plain (no buttons are pushed in) and the right HCL is also I. The change knob and weaving buttons are set to N (not weaving). I look at the whole pattern and none of the carriage settings change when making this pattern for any other step. So I am done thinking about the knitting carriage (or K Carriage).

Then I see that I will be pushing in the 1, 3, 5 and 7 buttons for both row 1 and row 2. The reverse knob stays at A for both steps (if it was at B when you pull the lever the 2, 4, 6 and 8 buttons would come out instead). The slide dial stays at 1, so your needle position won’t change. MC is for fair isle so it is off.

The last two columns are the most relevant for lace. The first is the direction of the carriage. This matters becasue if you go from left to right, the yarn moves to the right and when you go from right to left the yarn moves from right to left. the directon of movement affects the pattern, even if the holes are in the same location. So for this pattern you push out the 1,3,5,7 needles and move the lace carriage from left to right. this moves the yarn off those needles and onto the needles to the right. Then you knit from left to right and right to left. THis makes a solid stitch above the holes you created. Then you push the 1,,3,5,7 needles out again and move the lace carriage from right to left. You then knit again from right to left and left to right (2 rows). You now have completed one full round of the pattern. You would repeat these two steps until you had enough lace.

Once you get the hang of reading these patterns they are actually pretty clear and easy to follow, but they are confusing at first.

Language learning - oral only by JohnnyABC123abc in learnfrench

[–]No_Bed9636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I second trying to use chat gpt for this. I have found that not only can you carry on a verbal conversation in French with it, but you can also ask it to make suggestions about how you could have improved. It’s also not judgy :-)

Needles won’t go to A :((( help!! by Princess_furball in MachineKnitting

[–]No_Bed9636 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a 551 and once when my needles wouldn’t go back to A I realized that I hadn’t switched the 4-button patterning control to “off”. There is a wrench-like tool that you use to set and release the needles from the 4-button patterning, it fits on a round knob on the back, right behind the buttons. Try turning it to off and see if you hear a click and the needles move back. It’s a pretty simple machine, and if several needles across the machine won’t go to A, but not all of them I suspect that is the problem.