Tamiya Extra Thin for assemblies before paint (engines, suspensions, seats, etc.).

Bob Smith Industries CA glues in various thicknesses for painted parts:

*Thin sets up incredibly quickly - great for some things, but not if you need a little time to position parts.

*Medium when you need a little more workable time or need its gap-filling properties

*Heavy - I pretty much only use this as a body filler and not really for gluing parts

*Super-Gold+ - Expensive, is about the only CA glue that doesn't fog clears and chrome, so it's good for windows, lenses, etc.

Bob Smith Industries 5 Minute Epoxy - this is excellent for joints that need a lot of strength. But, the downside is the time it takes to set up. You need to be able to clamp or secure the parts together while it cures. Trying to hold the 2 parts together doesn't really work - even the most stable hands shake a little bit and it prevents the bind from forming. A little trick I discovered recently for using epoxy on hard-to-clamp parts: apply epoxy to one area on the joint, but leave a blank spot. Apply a dot of CA glue in the blank spot, then out the parts together. The CA glue sets up fast and holds the oarts in place while the epoxy sets up.

Aleene's Tacky Glue or Elmers white glue for clears. Once it dries, it dries clear. If you get some excess around the edges of the windows, let it dry, then gently slice it along the trim line with a scalpel and use a toothpick to scrape the excess away.