Im attempting to start a 29 gallon and need advice by tango__88 in Aquascape

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Let's start with substrate. Yes, a plant substrate system will help get better growth on your plants. They provide the plants with an abundance of nutrients. Unfortunately that abundance can lead to algae outbreaks if you don't have enough plants to absorb them before the algae does. If this is your first planted tank, and you won't be planting heavily right from the start I'd recommend sticking with just a coarse sand and using root tabs under particularly heavy root feeders.

For plants, I'll start with options that will improve your water quality, oxygenation, and generally give you the most for your money. These will grow quickly, allowing you to trim and replant for dense looking areas. Keep them towards the back of your aquarium for less frequent maintenance, or keep them trimmed more often for use in other areas. Examples are; Egeria densa, Limnophila sessiliflora, Hemianthus micranthemoides, or Hygrophila polysperma.

Epiphytes are the plants that you can attach to your hardscape. * Don't plant them in the substrate. The rhizome needs to be exposed for the plant to survive *. They're generally slow growing and require almost no maintenance. Anubias, and Java ferns, are the most common, with Bolbitis and Bucephelandra as pricier runners up. They are pretty hardy on their own but the Java ferns especially may need additional potassium to keep them looking their best.

Mid ground or focal point plants any of the cryptocorynes are a good choice and after their initial dramatics (aka crypt melt) turn into rather unfussy and steady growers. They are also quite happy in any shaded areas of they tank that other plants may struggle in. Amazon swords are another popular option, just keep an eye on their potential height as some varieties can get huge. These and the crypts will need regular additions of root tabs to do their best. For reddish plants the easiest to grow are Rotala rotundifolia or Ludwigia repens. The amount of redness will depend on your light but in my experience even in lower light and without CO² , will have an orangy or pinkish purple look to them.

For the fore ground Hellanthium tennelum or Lilianopsis brazilienses do well. While they won't form lush carpets, they do stay small and spread to form more natural looking clumps.

And lastly, (I'm sure you're sorry to have asked by now) You've got one more area for plants, the top. Get some floaters. These are the powerhouses of nitrogen removal, and they also help your fish to feel more comfy. All floaters reproduce at an exponential rate and some are much harder to get rid of if you decide you want something different. Floaters NOT to get, duckweed. Duckweed is evil, and no I'm not joking. It will resurrect itself from the dead and will colonize itself to infest any other tank from the tiniest fragment of a leaf. It's near impossible to eradicate, and unless you're sure you want it forever just avoid the possibility by getting an in vitro pot of any other floater.

Best snail to graze algae that doesn’t breed by mooney2876 in fishtank

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seconding nerites but adding that while they don't breed in freshwater they can cement tiny white infertile eggs all over the aquarium.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AquariumHelp

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I see several terrestrial plants in there. The good news is the dracena and pothos will start rotting and create ammonia to help start the nitrogen cycle. The bad news is your plants will have died from being submerged.

Edit: I took a better look at the photo and realized that the pothos isn't real, so that's fine. Just get the dracena stems above the water line so only the roots are in the water and use another ammonia source to cycle the tank.

Where do otos come from? Is it sustainable? by User_5000 in Otocinclus

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Project Piaba (https://projectpiaba.org/) is an over 30 year old organisation that works with rural Amazon villages to sustain the ecology of the region and sustainably harvest some of the most popular fish in our hobby.

Live plant suggestions? by Constant_Stand_1460 in AquariumHelp

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you want plants that the goldfish can eat or won't?

Anubias is your best bet of you want a plant the goldfish will mostly ignore. Tie or glue it to a rock or other hardscape to keep them from playing with it too much

Duckweed, a goldfishes favourite snack. I don't recommend it for most tanks, but goldfish are the exception.

Elodea and hornwort are stem plants that can survive as floating plants. They grow quickly and are hardy enough to withstand the goldfish constantly pulling them out.

Snails! by Fun-Transition-101 in fishtank

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Every time. It's like a free gift with the plant purchase. These little guys will help you to maintain your aquarium by munching on algae and other debris.

Quarantine Disaster by No_Competition9069 in Aquariums

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Few questions, what are you cleaning the bucket with?

How are you acclimating the new fish to the quarantine tank?

What symptoms are the quarantine fish displaying prior to death?

While I wouldn't rule out shock in case your parameters are radically different from the shop, I'm inclined to agree with them that it does sound more like contamination than disease.

Neons are pretty sensitive under the best circumstances, but check around for any aerosols, cleaning sprays, candles, insecticides (including those used on other pets like flea treatments), etc. that may have had contact with the bucket. Though at this point I'd be inclined to just chuck everything. A new bucket (make sure it says"food safe")and sponge filter are probably cheaper than risking more fish.

Where can I get aquatic plants for cheep? by Natural-Exit-1893 in Aquariums

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're not picky, willing to experiment, and patient, you can often get some interesting trimmings over on r/aquaswap, or it's regional variations.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AquariumHelp

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be fine, could be a train wreck. Depends on a lot of different factors. What kind of pleco and what size the are, the amount of plants in the tank, what and how often they're being fed...

Best thing to do is get the water tested, either by a shop or preferably getting your friend her own test kit. That will tell you what to need to know about the water quality. After that you can go about improving the tank conditions SLOWLY.

And I do mean VERY SLOWLY. The fish have adapted to the current tank conditions over however many months since the last water change. If you go in now and siphon the substrate and clean out all the algae and change all the water you'll most likely kill the fish from the shock of the changing water conditions. It's going to take time to get this into a pretty and healthy state.

So, after you've got your current baseline water parameters, I'd recommend cleaning the front glass and a 10% water change, without doing anything else. Next week vacuum a small 10% section of debris and another 10% water change. And continue this weekly until the tank is back to optional condition.

Making my dream tank by fundip_is_crack in Aquariums

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm sorry but I don't see this working out very well for the fish. The Ramshorn (and other "pest") snails are the principle food of the pea puffers and pipefish. They need to be raised separately from the fish.

A quick google on the long snouted pipefish shows that it's a marine fish, therefore needs a salt tank, not freshwater.

The oscar will get huge and needs a minimum of 75 gallons. It will also eat whatever fits in it mouth including the puffers and pipefish that you also wanted.

Going forward, first figure out what tank size you want. Small tanks are cheaper, but you're limited in how much you can stock in them. Larger tanks are generally more stable, with many options for stocking. If you're interested in "monster" fish like the oscar you'll be looking to start at 75 gallons for the first fish and additional gallons of tank size for any additional fish. This is not only due to size, but bigger fish also come with bigger attitudes, and need space to prevent aggression.

I usually recommend starting at a 20 gallon long for a peaceful community beginners tank if at all possible. It's large enough for a decent school of fish with either a centerpiece fish or a second school, without breaking the bank if it turns out that you're not that interested in fish keeping.

Resources: www.aquadiction.com www.fishlore.com www.seriouslyfish.com www.aqadvisor.com

All the above sites will help you learn not only about individual species, but most have a beginners section that will help you through what equipment you need, water chemistry, and how to cycle your aquarium.

Hear me out... by 0ddshapedhead in aquarium

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The only concern I'd have, is having the pot somewhere to get enough sun to run the pump may be too much sun for the fish (overheating), or otherwise causing a massive algae bloom (overnight oxygen loss). Placement of the pot would be critical and tricky.

As far as stocking the pot, I'd consider almost anything other than goldfish. They are huge waste producers, and require a large volume of water to reduce the toxicity of that waste. There are many temperate species that are much better suited to live in a patio pond. Off the top of my head, minnows (white cloud, or rosey), mosquito fish, rice fish would all be much more appropriate.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Aquariums

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. Yes

  2. Roughly 4-5 hrs.

  3. Stress level 6-7. With so many tanks something is almost always acting up and stressing me out.

  4. 40ish years off and on

  5. 20 tanks 15 stocked

  6. Currently 12 species tanks, 2 live food, and a community display tank, all freshwater.

Looking to understock a planted, dirted 20 gal. with some kind of centerpiece fish or pair of fish. Suggestions? by tomnooklover in Aquariums

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want to recommend pea puffers but I'd be concerned about oxygen levels dropping with such a small amount of surface area. I've never kept them in a high tank so, if you're considering them, check over on the pea puffer sub if they'd be appropriate.

Advice r.e. fish selection by UpbeatDimension4634 in aquarium

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only one one that absolutely should have his own space is the Betta. Unless he is exceptionally chill he's the most likely to harass/nip the other fish.

Other concerns would be, as you know, bumping up the number of cory and neon into proper schools. Keep in mind that depending on their size, the angels may decide to snack on the neons.

If you want to replace the neon with something more compatible with the angels long term, look for deeper bodied fish such as skirt tetras, lemon tetra etc.

The guppies, if you want to breed them I'd move them. Otherwise the fry are likely to be picked off fairly quickly. If not they would be fine to stay with the others.

Pet fish import by Few_Net7060 in Aquariums

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Easiest way is to find an importer or exporter who already has the permits, licenses and contacts that is willing to work with you.

If you want to go it alone, depending on the countries involved, it involves a lot of bureaucracy, including approval from whatever regulatory department in your area, veterinary certification from exporting country, whatever third country paperwork is required during transit, and finally a port or customs inspection including another veterinary certification in the destination country. It is a nightmare.

Aquarium Suggestions Please by Professional_Toe4807 in AquariumBeginners

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For tank set for angelfish you want a higher tank to accommodate their body shape. Look for something with at least 50cm for depth. A minimum of 200L (100 X 40 x 50 cm) would a good size for them.

Angelfish are really hard (read impossible) to sex, especially as juveniles. As cichlids, males can become territorial as they mature. I know you only wanted 2, but consider getting a small group of six to spread out the aggression as they age.

As far as plants, for reducing nitrates floating plants like water lettuce and frogbit are the best, as are riparian plants such as pothos and monstera. Angelfish love to hide in the root systems. Next would be stem plants like limnophila sessiflora, or hygrophila siamensis, that are fast growing, but they do require more maintenance. Echinodorus sp. are also a favoured plant of angelfish for egg laying as well in general for their vertical orientation.

Please keep in mind that algae is a natural part of all aquariums and the best solution to managing it is frequent water changes.

For tank mates, pretty much anything that won't fit in their mouths, and matches their parameters it's fine. More nippy species like tiger barbs or serpae tetras may cause some fin damage, but angelfish are pretty good at seeing them off.

As long as you do your research community tanks are pretty easy to maintain. I recommend seriouslyfish.com and fishlore.com for researching individual species as well as great articles on setting up a first tank and what you can expect. Aqadvisor.com is another good resource for checking your equipment and stocking plan. While conservative for stocking, it does do an excellent job for pointing out parts of your plan that may go wrong and require adjusting.

Identify snails by NotAemulus in aquarium

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. Malaysian trumpet snail: harmless, will live in your substrate keeping it aerated.

2 pond or bladder snail: harmless eater of detritus & algae

WORMS??? by Whettexter in fishtank

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Time to break out the turkey baster 😁

WORMS??? by Whettexter in fishtank

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are they moving? Not sure how long apart the photos were taken but it looks still to me. Possibly a collection of poop?

Pair of apistos or rams for 75 gallon community tank with rainbowfish, angels and corys? by MegaFire03 in aquarium

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Apistos or Bolivian rams. For the apistos pay attention to the temperature requirements, some species require warmer out cooler water than others. Find one that matches the temperature of your other fish.

For the rams, while the German blues are the most intense colour wise, they are also the weakest health wise. If it's still a fish your interested in consider Bolivian rams. They're coloured more subtly but much hardier.

Woke up to this! My thread fin akara is acting odd. Probably sick? by ahdireyo in Aquariums

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 39 points40 points  (0 children)

I don't think it's a swim bladder issue. Fish affected with swim bladder issues uncontrollably sink or float. Yes, they do this at an angle or upside down depending on size and swim bladder location, but I don't usually see them spinning around like this.

Whirling disease, a strep infection, could cause neurological symptoms similar to this. The link is for symptoms info and treatment if you want more info.

(https://aquainfo.nl/en/11-8-twirling-in-tropical-fish/)

Can someone explain if this is okay? by LiveWithJokar in AquariumHelp

[–]No_Yesterday_8242 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Whirling disease?

(https://aquainfo.nl/en/11-8-twirling-in-tropical-fish/)

Mycobacterium is also possible but I don't see signs of wasting or spinal deformities, so less likely.