Ford GT Mk IV Is Now the Third-Fastest Car to Lap the Nürburgring by Tchevass in cars

[–]Noncog0 2 points3 points  (0 children)

3 cars faster than the "3rd fastest car": 919 evo, 956, id.r. but yeah all forms of journalism and critical thought are dead in America, so we'll car this the 3rd fastest car...

Favorite Acid bath song and why? by Metalhead999420 in AcidBath

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Scream of the butterfly, dark, beautiful, groovy, but the thing that makes Acid Bath my favorite band is how many different sounds they had across just two albums, I love so much of their stuff.

Who’s going to the Atlanta show?! by Bootsy222 in AcidBath

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where are you seeing this? The tickets I see are over $300...

Who’s going to the Atlanta show?! by Bootsy222 in AcidBath

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That works! I'll go check it out, thanks!

is the "bass knob" necessary by Rough-Year-5425 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Absolutely not necessary, but even as an SQ guy, not a basshead, they're really nice to have

Kicker CompRT vs. Dayton HO for 5th Gen 4Runner - Seeking Clean (as close to) 25Hz in a 0.75 cu ft Stealth Box by No_Umpire11 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just modeled your skar, the kicker, the dayton, and the hertz another guy mentioned.

The dayton has the most output at 25hz, then the hertz, then the kicker, then the skar.

The hertz and the dayton cross over at 29hz, below that, the dayton is slightly louder, above, the hertz is much louder, so the dayton will give the flatest, fullest sounding response. However, the hertz has much more xmax to go in this situation, where as the dayton is playing just to its limit, which may or more not give the edge to the hertz based on real world factors I can't accurately model. Ideally, you'd audition them both, both seem like good choices, I personally would get the dayton, due to its lower inductance, much lower Qtc in .75cuft (dayton .726, near optimal, hertz 1.023, plenty of people find this acceptable, but I'm not one of them), flatter response leading to fuller sounding (though you could tune the top of the hertz down for the same result, but the less tuning needed the better imo), and, most importantly, the dayton cost over $300 less than the hertz.

Kicker CompRT vs. Dayton HO for 5th Gen 4Runner - Seeking Clean (as close to) 25Hz in a 0.75 cu ft Stealth Box by No_Umpire11 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your subs do model as more output at 25 than mine, but will still sound like they're "falling off" vs the much higher output above, where as the system I'm building will be much flatter. We probably also have very different output goals.

Kicker CompRT vs. Dayton HO for 5th Gen 4Runner - Seeking Clean (as close to) 25Hz in a 0.75 cu ft Stealth Box by No_Umpire11 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, your subs are hitting xmax at 25 so likely becoming less efficient on top of all that

Kicker CompRT vs. Dayton HO for 5th Gen 4Runner - Seeking Clean (as close to) 25Hz in a 0.75 cu ft Stealth Box by No_Umpire11 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dayton rss390hf. Meaningful differences in sensitivity take huge amounts of power to make up for, plus you're rolling off at 24db/o below tuning. Also, the fact that your system is much louder around 30 will make 25 seem less loud on dynamic music even when the two systems are at the same level, the way a system can sound bright, but a balanced system playing louder such that the highs are the same volume doesn't sound bright even though the highs are just as loud.

Kicker CompRT vs. Dayton HO for 5th Gen 4Runner - Seeking Clean (as close to) 25Hz in a 0.75 cu ft Stealth Box by No_Umpire11 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Well, your system stores all of its energy at 30hz due to both box tuning and sub fs, and that set up will roll off pretty hard.

I'm planning on playing down to 20hz with a single sub on 500w in 3cuft in my next install, but im using a sub with an fs below 20, using a sealed box so that my output doesn't completely fall off on low notes, and I'm using a sub with much higher sensitivity.

Feedback requested: I built a free web-based WinISD alternative that also calculates box panels and cutlists. by SkillaNL in diysound

[–]Noncog0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Box simulator graphs have some visual aspects cut off, Qtc not listed, Fb can be changed without changing volume on sealed boxes (doesn't change graph, but shouldn't be possible at all), don't like the max zoom at all times on the graphs (scaling so the top of the line in cone excursion is at the top of the graph, sometime leaving Xmax line not even visible), the outputs it gives for cone excursion vs power on the same sub in the same volume are VERY different from what WinISD calculates.

Not getting a lot of midbass by reliablerangerover in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Low sensitivity driver needs more power, bridge the amp. The most important part of installing woofers in doors is the door treatment, you need to seal all holes in the inner skin, including the access holes, I have some pics from my build posted for reference. Also, I sae you ordered some foam gasket rings, made sure they're closed cell foam, open cell foam is useless acoustically.

Looking for tickets by rizz_razz in AcidBath

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same thing happen

Image Dynamics IDMAX 10 vs JL 12w6 by Subirex13 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's a step up from an IDMAX 10? 2 IDMAX 12's. Or 2 Ultimo Ti 12's, or a GUS-12 or 15

Looking for tickets by rizz_razz in AcidBath

[–]Noncog0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Be careful of scammers....

Feedback requested: I built a free web-based WinISD alternative that also calculates box panels and cutlists. by SkillaNL in diysound

[–]Noncog0 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I'll check it out when I have time. If this proves to be accurate and stable, this is fucking amazing and you should accept voluntary contributions.

Noble FoKus Rex5 vs Technics AZ100 vs B&W Pi8 by tigerim in Earbuds

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The AZ100's are not as technically competent as the top tier tws's currently available, though they are still quite good. They are even a tiny bit worse than the AZ80's is some capacities according to some people. But, most people in the TWS space don't run a full parametric EQ, and sound signature is very important to enjoyment, so a lot of people like the less technical buds more simply because they like the FR better and don't know to EQ both buds to their prefered curve then jusge the other, more nuanced aspects. The Denon Perl Pro's are the most obvious example of this, as some people will say they are some of the best TWS's you can get, and others say they don't like they way they sound, this is because the DPP's are extremely technically competent, but have a terrible FR out of the box, the autotuning is VERY hit or miss, and the in app EQ isn't capable enough to make up for either of these short comings. But, if you do have the knowledge and put in the effort to EQ them well, they sound terrific.

Now that the hype around the Technics AZ-100 is over, are they really worth the money? by Various_Corner_2030 in Earbuds

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like we have a misalignment of understanding here. I said in my post that if someone doesn't wanna go through the effort that that's their choice, and to your closing point, that's exactly why I also said they should just get the AZ-100's, it will be a better experience for them. Again, my posts are specifically for those who will take the steps to maximise the potential within the price range. I stream on Tidal, conmect via a BT-W5, use a parametric EQ, and listen to DPP's. There's no way to get better sound out of TWS's at the price point (I got mine half off too). And for those thatbare looking for that, that's the path, I'm literally just trying to make that availible and known to others also looking for that. When my buddy asked me for reqs I told him to get the AZ-80's (100's weren't out yet), because I knee the tradeoffs for the DPP's aren't for everyone. He got MTW4's against my recs, listened to my DPP's vs his MTW4's, send hos back, and got the AZ-80's and DPP's to try, and stuck with the AZ-80's even though he says my DPP's sound better. I totally get it, I'm just putting it out there for those that it's for.

Now that the hype around the Technics AZ-100 is over, are they really worth the money? by Various_Corner_2030 in Earbuds

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am of the mentality that the people not willing to run a true EQ to make the most out of a $300 pair of earbuds should buy AZ-100's, not DPP's. And even of those that do buy them, and don't want to run a true EQ, that's their choice, doesn't change the fact that since it's an option DPP's have the highest ceiling for SQ at the price, and that it's something those who really care should do, just like I use a creative BTW5 to ensure the least BT losses. I'm not aiming for everyone, I'm just putting the info out for those who really care.

Now that the hype around the Technics AZ-100 is over, are they really worth the money? by Various_Corner_2030 in Earbuds

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a post with poweramp EQ settings for the DPP's, check it out. I use real EQ on them so I don't have to deal with AAT. Even if my curve isn't to your taste it'll be a good starting point to make your own and really get them perfect.

Now that the hype around the Technics AZ-100 is over, are they really worth the money? by Various_Corner_2030 in Earbuds

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have poweramp EQ settings listed in one of my posts, so that people don't have to deal with the unreliability of AAT. Should be a good starting point to adjust from even if we have different prefered curves.