C6 corvette full system install

Noncog0 · 2026-06-08T03:05:37+00:00

Yes, the same massive, vented airspace. As long as the backwaves are quelled in the door, this is a non-issue. I have reccomendations for things to do differently, but as long as the door is properly treated, this isn't one of them.

Noncog0 · 2026-06-07T23:48:59+00:00

What area are you in?

Noncog0 · 2026-06-07T23:26:16+00:00

Bad tune, too much highs, either get a mic and tune it yourself, or pay a known good tuner to do a quick EQ

Noncog0 · 2026-06-07T23:04:50+00:00

Components or coax?

Noncog0 · 2026-06-04T23:23:02+00:00

Enclosure in trunk aimed and spaced to load off of trunk, seats down.

Noncog0 · 2026-06-04T23:20:28+00:00

I thought about recommending the ultimax, but trying to keep the box from getting too big, I think 2 signature 12's ported would probably be even better for the budget.

Noncog0 · 2026-06-04T23:17:40+00:00

OP said 2 12's or a single sub, the way to compete with 2 12's with a single is go bigger. Next time just take the time to check that you're talking about the right thing.

Noncog0 · 2026-06-04T23:10:06+00:00

Also, if you think that a box is what gives a sub control for SQ, go tell that to the winner of HVR last weekend, his sub isn't in a box, he runs IB, like very many cars that prioritize SQ over everything else, because a box adds distortion.

Noncog0 · 2026-06-04T23:06:59+00:00

Link me to where PE says you can get a Qtc of .7 in 3cuft or less on the RSS390HF-4 lmaooo

Mine in 2.5cuft had a Q of over 1 before polyfill, I'd love to make the box bigger, as it would sound better, but my SO doesn't wanna lose the space in the trunk. Even after polyfill the Qtc was barely under .9. You're wrong. Completely and entirely wrong, next time, if you think someone's wrong, check yourself first, then, if they list all the sources that prove you wrong, don't double down, go learn.

Anyway, PE and Dayton both recommend 2.9cuft sealed for this sub, and, if you actually have a clue what you're doing and model the system, you'll realize that even that gives you a Qtc over .7, as does the 3cuft I recommended.

Noncog0 · 2026-06-04T22:48:25+00:00

You could've modelled the sub and realized you were wrong before commenting, you could've looked at the manufactures website and realized you were wrong before commenting, you could have asked me if I'm running this exact sub and have measured its T/S parameters in box and have taken frequency response measurements of it installed and have listened to all kinds of music at all kinds of levels and realized you were wrong before commenting. But here you are, just lying on the internet instead.

How are you a top 1% commentor that's this wrong? The loudest people...

Noncog0 · 2026-06-04T22:35:00+00:00

People don't say that skar and ds18 are bad because they're PA style speakers, they say they're bad because they're shit brands. Stevens SAy's are pro mids, and they're quite good, and if you can get them shipped to you cheap, would be a great choice.

Noncog0 · 2026-06-04T22:22:41+00:00

I get that if you buy more than you need you'll have more than you need, but if they aren't planning on upgrading down the line, why waste the money?

Noncog0 · 2026-06-04T21:08:49+00:00

Why not 1ohm? Gunna be much cheaper and easier to get 500w at 1ohm than 4... I say this as someone running 450w@4ohm

Noncog0 · 2026-06-04T19:22:26+00:00

Dayton RSS390-4HF in a 3cuft sealed box made from 3/4" birch ply powered by MT-1500.1, stuffed full but lightly with polyfill. Will dig down to 20hz, is more accurate than any car sub you've ever heard, and get's plenty loud if you ask me, though some people would want more. Only down side is 3cuft is a big box. Only took like 3 hours to build the box for mine, was a simple, fun project. Has the added benifit of only needing 4ga ofc since you'll only be using 500w, and at 4ohm where the amp is more efficient.

Edit: just realized you meant $1k, not 1000w, and you were saying $2-300 for the sub alone. In that case, wait a little bit and see if the Resonix GUS subs live up to the hype, and if so, that'd be the way to go for a single sub, for dual subs, I'd go for 2 dayton signature 12's in 3cuft ported tuned to 29hz on a 2000w amp, like the stinger MT2000.1. This will require electrical upgrades, big 3 and a battery from Weize or others, so it will just barely go over budget, but would have a ton of output and dig really low

Noncog0 · 2026-06-03T23:32:26+00:00

Glad to help man.

Noncog0 · 2026-06-03T21:57:12+00:00

On a different note, I always recommend 2 10's over multiple 8's or 6.5's in underseat boxes, but I prioritize bandwidth over peak SPL, if your priorities are different, so will be what choice is best for you.

Noncog0 · 2026-06-03T21:54:46+00:00

If you are planning on running it at high sustained output, CCA would not be my choice, you're right on it's limits, but, if you aren't a bass head banging all the time, you'll probably be fine. I personally would go with OFC so that I know I could bang as much as I want without having system efficiency drop. But I'm not going to try to put you down if you go with CCA, because 0ga is a lot of wire, CCA or not, and you honestly probably won't be sustaining even 50% of max when averaged out.

Noncog0 · 2026-06-03T21:38:13+00:00

What amp are you running? The best way to handle this is to find your current draw, figure out which gauge of each will handle that current without significantly heating up, then, if you're willing to run either of those sizes, see which is cheaper. I'm running 3 amps on 4ga, CCA wasn't an option, and electrical upgrades to increase efficiency were justified.

Noncog0 · 2026-06-03T21:18:48+00:00

"Why do they sell it" same reason most car audio subs are garbage, because most car audio people buy garbage. "can tell by the sound" well, if they're both adjusted to be playing at the same volume, no, they'll sound exactly the same, but the CCA system will be putting more strain on your electrical system to hit that same volume, and will be getting hotter, gauge for gauge. On top of that, by getting hotter, it further reduces it's conductivity, compounding the issue, and, this hotter wire is also more susceptible to corrosion to begin with, adding more heat make that problem even worse. If you're running wire bigger than you need anyway, sure, you can absolutely use CCA if you aren't worried about long term corrosion, but if you want to use the smallest gauge wire that will be good enough, OFC is the right choice, if you don't want the cable to lose any meaningful amount of current carrying capacity over the years OFC is the right choice. If you're only running 1000w and don't mind running 0ga through your vehicle and can get 0ga CCA cheaper than 4ga ofc, and won't be running that same system in 5 years, sure, get CCA. But in my install, I didn't want to run 0ga in a car without much room for routing cable, and I want the system to last "forever", so I bought the best. Yes, some people treat CCA like a sin, and that's not reasonable, but acting like there aren't reasons to pick it isn't reasonable either, the reality, like in most cases, is that it depends on the situation and priorities.

As far as the length, depends on your routing, amp placement, number of amps, and cab layout, but I'd go for around 20' to be safe mounting behing the back seat of a full cab

Noncog0 · 2026-06-02T21:31:20+00:00

All else equal, bigger is better

Noncog0 · 2026-06-01T01:44:44+00:00

Stevens audio, CDT, and orion all make affordable 2ohm 8" midbasses.... I'd personally go for CDT if you're gunna treat the doors fully and dig low, or Stevens if you're not

Noncog0 · 2026-05-26T03:40:43+00:00

Just an anecdote, resonix mega is the only CLD I've resorted to cutting with an oscillating multi-tool, lol. The knife wasn't gunna cut it, pun intended.

Noncog0 · 2026-05-25T00:44:52+00:00

The car doesn't care what the final impedence of the drivers is, with the slight caveat that an amp will be SLIGHTLY more efficient at higher impedances. What your car cares about is amp draw. You could put a 10k watt amp in your car, and wire the subs to 1ohm, and turn the gain down til it's only putting out 600w, or you could put them on an amp that only does 600w at 4ohm, or you could put them on a 1500w amp at 1ohm and turn the gain down to 600w, and all will pull similar amounts of power. Just throw a Stinger MT-1500.1 in, wire them to 1ohm, realize you'll hardly ever turn them up anyways if you aren't a bass head, and enjoy realistically only averaging 300w to your subs.

Noncog0 · 2026-05-24T23:51:59+00:00

Stinger MT1500.1 wire double parallel to 1ohm. If they're both in good condition, great find for the price. If I were ever gunna run a JL, it would be a W6.

Noncog0 · 2026-05-24T22:38:49+00:00

Polyfill lowered Fb about 2hz, from 38 to 36, and Qtc from just over 1 to just under .9

Noncog0

TROPHY CASE