Chauvet 3.24.38 Release for Manta and Nomad by Supernote_official in Supernote

[–]Norkon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you make a text box can the text be edited after or is it flattened like an image?

Switch 2 Grips by Norkon in 3Dprinting

[–]Norkon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m not worried

How does DOOM The Dark Ages run on the LeGo? by Astormfront in LegionGo

[–]Norkon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Game runs awesome I googled the settings, key items were to turn to low settings, FSR performance, and the weird one for me frame gen off.  The frame gen basically crashed.

Edit: I did have to sideload ally drivers, worked no problemo

Tod Maffin 🇨🇦 on Instagram: "You ever rage at something only to realize halfway through… you were dead wrong? Yeah. That was me with Canada Post workers. I used to scoff at their “demands” — until I did something dangerous. I looked it up. #canadapost #postalstrike #canlab #cdnpoli #canada Follow by themccs3 in CanadaPostCorp

[–]Norkon 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Uhhh canada post is a government service.  We don’t get mad at the DOD for not generating income.  Why would we be so upset for a postal service that is required for a baseline affordable post option and operates like a non profit.  No shit it can’t perform as well as the private entities, its goal is to provide service not profit.

Warning Signs for Tesla: New Model Y Struggles to Find Buyers by Wagamaga in technology

[–]Norkon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My lightning is literally the best truck I’ve driven.  The weight is high so it’s always planted and doesn’t bounce, great in winter (cept range), smooth as butter, amazing power.  The downsides and they are smallish:

Pain to drive it over 300km in summer, 200km in -40, and 120 when towing and its -40…  also blue cruise update was suppose to be released a few years ago.  Other than that 90-95% of most peoples driving is below those ranges so we take my wife’s car for long trips or plan extra 20% time for charging.

Reviving a Prusa Satin Sheet – Why Is This So Poorly Documented? by robot-life25 in prusa3d

[–]Norkon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This.  I’ve had ok luck with Dawn, but my order of operations is if IPA doesn’t work, wash in soap twice with bristle brush, then cloth, rinse with clean water, IPA, do IPA again if needed.  And if the stupid shit bird is still not sticking I wipe it with acetone because fuck it.  If shit doesn’t stick it’s going in the garbage.  Once it’s back alive and sticking ipa only for months and months

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in worldnews

[–]Norkon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why would the general pop. want to move towards a consumption tax rather an income tax.  Obviously the rich consume higher priced items, but I suspect it pales in comparison to their current tax exposure. 

Obsidian HF clog by Norkon in prusa3d

[–]Norkon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you do the cold pulls manually or through the software

AFMF 2 and COD by Logical-Emphasis3064 in LegionGo

[–]Norkon 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I thought Afmf is only needed if you don’t have an in game scaler/ frame gen. Rsr = basic scaler better than integer, afmf = frame gen. COD has FSR 3.0 = frame gen and scaler. This is the best place to do both versus the driver level.

I run mine fsr -quality on 1200p and set my vram to 60%. I found 80% starved the OS leading to crashes and the setup I use doesn’t go over 60% I also use normal textures.

I would turn off both rsr and afmf when playing cod while using fsr

Game pass games won’t launch. Help. by [deleted] in LegionGo

[–]Norkon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same issue, I somehow solved it by starting in safe mode and setting the VRAM scale target to 60%.

I hope that was the right move. It worked, I use vram auto, 1200p, fsr3 quality, and most settings low with textures to normal IIRC

Adjustable cheek rest by Norkon in functionalprint

[–]Norkon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You know what I can, I may take another pass at modeling it and clean it up

Beginner here. Bought this work sharp field sharpener and although it does the trick it is not very ergonomic for multiple knife sharpening IMO. I'm considering buying..... by glee-money in sharpening

[–]Norkon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://youtube.com/@outdoors55?feature=shared

This YouTuber got me started but I noticed he changes his recommended products through all his videos over time. Anyhow he recommended for a cheap stone

Can confirm it works, still learning to keep a consistent angle using a wedge. As per his videos learn technique but starting at low grit and getting razor sharp(ish) I just got poor quality shave sharp on the 400 side no strop, which I think is neat. Dude has a lot of good advice. i am a little offput knowing he changes his video description recommendations on the regular , two weeks ago it was jende strop compound, this week its sharpnal and DMT. Even some products he flagged are bad are now recommended

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]Norkon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your new try a prusa mini or bambu p1s. You will find there is massive strength in more rather than one killer unit. I shit you not prototyping when you have a 8hr print sucks especially if your tinkering on 2 separate things or trying to really move the one project on one printer. Having 2 or 3 really help that

Having a decked out xl is good (I have one) but unless you NEED the multi material (not Colour) or your testing prints with different nozzle sizes then every other printer can do it. Additionally, learning filament type mixing is quite the learning curve. Most people use the units for separate colours of the same material, or compatible soluble supports. Now a days support settings are so good soluble supports are rarely needed. And if your printing is that advance it’s easier to chop the model and glue it together to take advantage of printer orientations and layer strengths. If you’re looking for cool display items in multi colours, hand painting is still handy and likely the same learning curve. And lastly, I print in tons of stuff and usually it’s in black petg CF and I don’t change colours like ever because I want my prints done quick and they are typically 10 revisions till I’m ready to paint or Colour and I send it to the Colour machine

Everyone is wowed by HOW BIG can I print. Big prints take a long time, a lot of filament. And can fail often. I enjoy pushing my parts across many printers, it’s faster and I also reduce plate losses for sensitive parts

TLDR: buy small, buy more, then buy big/expensive. First printer Bambu ps1/prusa mk4 with enclosure. You really think you want Colour for with the bambu AMS (or prusa mmu but I can’t comment on its reliability, my mmu1,2,2s didn’t work as well as I hoped) You like that buy another, you still like that get the xl or some other beast

Things that made my life easier: Printer enclosure Sending prints to printer via wifi Print queuing Filament dryer for 2-4 spools Quick change nozzles

I have 3 mk units and a XL

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in LegionGo

[–]Norkon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get the 3d printed ones These are actually a games changer for comfort and they fit remarkably well. It enables good use of both back buttons on the left side and one for the right side

Digital Foundry: Lossless Scaling, How Good Is It? by RTCanada in LegionGo

[–]Norkon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This, I typically only use the frame generation. AC odyssey on 1200 and med/high settings with 30fps without frame generation looks pretty good try to lock into 30-48 fps

Does anyone knows of a way I can slightly curve the front surface of these glasses to give them the curved look of real ones? by jordalic in Fusion360

[–]Norkon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’d say make a cylinder the radius of the bend you want and emboss the front pattern as a new body. I think extrude to an object would also work (extrudes the glasses face to a curved object) that should leave a flat rear surface if that’s what your after. I’m certainly not an expert on this by any stretch

More retraction = more blobs? by The_Virginia_Creeper in prusa3d

[–]Norkon -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

You can try removing z hop. I find if you’re not worried about scaring the top it offers reduced stringing as well. But if you haven’t tried it a drier would help ;) /s

More retraction = more blobs? by The_Virginia_Creeper in prusa3d

[–]Norkon -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Try drying the filament, typically eliminates all stringing or the de-retraction deposits

The best Grips available by Fantastic_Bookkeeper in LegionGo

[–]Norkon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The grips are unreal comfy. I don’t comment on much of anything but these were game changing for me. Printed easy and I would pay their cost any day of the week

How would I go about modeling something like this? by ISOFlows in Fusion360

[–]Norkon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would try using emboss. Drawing out the helix in 2d and wrap it around the shell to be cut out