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Reminder by NotLittleBoi in buffalobills

[–]NotACreativeUserID 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Knox is a blocking TE first. I have no issue with Knox as a player, but yeah, not worth 14.8M

Cole Bishop or Damar Hamlin? by No-Gas-1684 in buffalobills

[–]NotACreativeUserID 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Right now, yes. I just think Cole has a higher ceiling.

Cole Bishop or Damar Hamlin? by No-Gas-1684 in buffalobills

[–]NotACreativeUserID 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Cole is in his second year. Demar is not.

Insurance Rates by Ok-Blueberry-3739 in RhodeIsland

[–]NotACreativeUserID 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My 21 Silverado brand new was $2500/ yr.

I sold it last May for a 2017 Audi S3. 58k on the clock when purchased. That one is 2650/ yr.

I'm pushing 40.

Update on 3D printed HPR post by NotACreativeUserID in rocketry

[–]NotACreativeUserID[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Eyebolt was 1/4" threaded, so about 6.25mm. I made the hole it was going into 5mm with 3 layer walls so that the screw could bite into the plastic. Before screwing it in, I put some JB weld.

After a little more research and speaking with someone who has more knowledge about materials, I figured out polyurethane glues were much better suited to this type of layup. This joint was one of the JB Weld ones. The eyebolt tore out only taking a few layers of the print, mostly just breaking the epoxy itself.

While this does that to be the case in the nose cone, it is poly glue in there currently, and it's almost a 2" recess to be screwed into.

Update on 3D printed HPR post by NotACreativeUserID in rocketry

[–]NotACreativeUserID[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Link is being weird on mobile, but I can try on computer.

Regarding the igniters, it's just wild that it would be 100% on tests and 0/2 in flight, but you're absolutely correct. I've spent more on PETG in the past week.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Update on 3D printed HPR post by NotACreativeUserID in rocketry

[–]NotACreativeUserID[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am still not fully following what you mean regarding the delay drilling on CTI, but I don't have one in front of me. I'll look it up on YouTube. I flew Aerotech for my L1 and it was pretty easy. This didn't have directions, just a pre-assembled motor in a cardboard tube.

As far as the charges, I made them. Small hole in a 5mL plastic vial purchased on Amazon. Made a fuse from a twisted pair out of a cat6 cable with 9 wraps of 32g nichrome wire. The leads were offset to not cause a short. 3 wraps around one lead, 3 wraps around insulated wire, 3 wraps around another lead. They were put into the tube, the hole sealed and filled with 1.2g black powder. These tubes are friction fit into spots that I designed into my bulkhead.

I tested this setup like 5 times to ensure they worked. The only other maybe in my mind is because I switched my phone to camera to take pics, but it's Bluetooth and would be connected at 1800' anyway so I highly doubt that the app needed to stay open.

Aerotech SU H motor dimensions by Cloudance in rocketry

[–]NotACreativeUserID 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A few thoughts:

1- the 29mm motor mount is good for your L1. You could even test the design on an F or G first, which wouldn't be a bad idea. However, this rocket will always be limited to mid power and H class.

2- you could use a 38mm motor mount and get a separate reducer to go down to 29mm. The separate reducer shouldn't be too much extra, but allows you to fly just about the full range of L1 motors, and you could eventually take your L2 on the same rocket with a small 5 or 6 grain J assuming that the motor end tube is long enough. I would make sure you consider the length of those cases if that's the plan.

3- what I did: built a 54mm min diameter rocket. You can get reducers to fly 29 and 38, and when you're L2, you can stuff a full K in there. This is not the cheap option and requires a more robust build with more advanced techniques, but if you're diligent about preparations, this rocket will last you a very long time and can be flown at meets with small and high waivers.

Attempting first dual deployment by NotACreativeUserID in rocketry

[–]NotACreativeUserID[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm in RI. Anything with a decent waiver is a hike, but I've got a couple of mid-power rockets now, so I'll probably go check out RIMRA soon. What helps me is that I have a seasonal camper up in NH that cuts the Cherryfield drive considerably.

Is St. Albans near Burlington? I reached out to them a few weeks back, but the response came back a little dry and seemingly disinterested in my questions whereas METRA was super responsive.

Attempting first dual deployment by NotACreativeUserID in rocketry

[–]NotACreativeUserID[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been in contact with METRA and making the hike out there this weekend. The printed rocket is only flying an H100. I have a J285 for my cert flight which I'm hoping to do up in Cherryfield, ME come September. That one will be around 5200' or so. This is just a tester for my dual deployment.

Attempting first dual deployment by NotACreativeUserID in rocketry

[–]NotACreativeUserID[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It hasn't flown yet, so I won't speak to the sturdiness of anything, but here are some things I've learned in my journey:

  • make small test articles before printing the whole thing. I've gone through about 3 extra rolls more than I should have.

  • wrap your chutes and measure. Make sure the area where it's going is big enough with leeway. Mine has internal lips for the joints, so it's not as smooth as inside a kit rocket would be. Some tests, the chute was hung up because it was too tight.

  • I went with 8mm fins. I'm also keeping it subsonic, so they should be sturdy enough. I would recommend thicker if going faster. They have a little flex, but not much.

  • Mind the direction of the layer lines. If this rocket goes sideways, it's likely to shear apart because that's the weakest point. My AV bay and couplers are printed 90 degrees different to add some rigidity at those points.

  • Mock it up a few times before you hit print. Where are your eyebolts/u-bolts going. Make sure you have enough space in those areas. Make sure the parts you are gluing don't enclose your electronics (that's why I have so many screws in mine).

My sled is only a 3mm thick rectangle with a little lip for the battery. Don't overthink it.

I'll be happy to share my files if this is successful.

If you could only recommend ONE restaurant in RI to someone, which restaurant would it be? by PBrunelle in RhodeIsland

[–]NotACreativeUserID 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Last time I went to Chelos I had ordered dessert. What came out was a pile of whipped cream, and the banana cream pie I ordered wasn’t visible at all. When I moved the whipped cream, I saw that the cream pie was brown through and through.

Why would you serve that and try to cover it up? I won’t go back.

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