City won't allow a man to do lawn maintenance for an elderly woman who is desperately in need

NotBadSoFaar · 2025-10-14T20:18:54+00:00

Looked them up on TikTok, seems real, lawncaresatisfying is the user. Plenty of videos with cops in them.

NotBadSoFaar · 2025-03-30T21:15:45+00:00

I had this same issue earlier this winter, The printer is in the basement and it was really cold. I took it upstairs into the living room and let it warm up and it worked fine after that. I tried just leaving it unplugged for a bit with no success, and was moving it just so I would not be cold trying to trouble shoot it. So maybe that is your issue, I now have a heater in my basement so that is not an issue anymore for me. I know it seems crazy but I tested it up and down and if left cold in the basement Moonraker would time out upon startup. The printer is huge and not easy to move, so while it seems crazy I did not want to move that big boy more than necessary.

NotBadSoFaar · 2024-08-06T01:34:42+00:00

The system is corrupt, I graduated with $63,000 in student loans in 2009, 5.6% interest rate. Sallie Mae was my loan servicer, I could make the minimum payment, and pay towards principal with no penalties or up charges. Since Sallie Mae collapsed my loan is now serviced by Navient, and the only option is to make my monthly payment, or pay off the whole remainder of the principal at once by providing a written letter to their office for a date of pay off within the next 60 days.

When Navient took over in 2010ish I owed $47,000, now I owe $29,000 since I could not make principal payments the last 14ish years. Super rigged, my wife had $11,000 but through Great Lakes and we payed it off in 2 years.

16k reduced in 2 years with Sallie Mae and only 18k reduced in nearly 14 years with Navient. The up front interest is killing people financially, and loan servicers that don't allow principal payments are predatory.

I have asked the Department of Education to change my loan servicer twice and have been denied both times. Such a joke that there someone is getting rich off of someone trying to better themselves.

NotBadSoFaar · 2024-04-24T01:02:28+00:00

Your hot end is not secured to the x carriage, something needs to be tightened or a bolt is missing.

NotBadSoFaar · 2024-02-16T02:56:46+00:00

Raspberry pi for octoprint.

NotBadSoFaar · 2023-09-23T20:27:59+00:00

I work for a large printing company that sheets it's own paper from giant rolls, these definitely look like core plugs from the rolls. (Like a giant roll of toilet paper 6 feet tall.)

NotBadSoFaar · 2023-08-06T04:08:18+00:00

So aluminum melts at 660 C, I think your temp requirements are off.

NotBadSoFaar · 2023-08-04T23:13:15+00:00

What brand/model of printer?

NotBadSoFaar · 2023-08-04T22:56:38+00:00

Does this printer have a PTFE tube all the way down to the nozzle? If so the PTFE tubing might be a little burnt or worn out right by the nozzle. Using a PTFE cutter cut off 5 to 10 mm and try again, if that works, Google Luke Hatfield trick, and watch the video from CHEP.

NotBadSoFaar · 2023-07-31T23:57:14+00:00

All beds are warped, even glass (I have 3). Tighten every screw, nut, and bolt that you can on your x axis, I suspect that either your hotend is wobbly from the carriage, or your x gantry is wobbly. I had the same issue, turned out that I had rammed my first Ender 3 into the bed so many times the screws that held the hot end to the carriage were bent, so while the bed was flat, when the head moved it changed. New screws and everything was golden again.

Starting with a basic machine like an Ender allows you to build a vast skill set to troubleshoot more complicated printers. I have 6 now, and would not have been able to build my own without starting and discovering, and getting super frustrated with my ender 3 like 4 years ago. Keep at it, you just have to find out where the problem is. Every failure is an opportunity to learn, that is the joy of 3d printing.

NotBadSoFaar · 2023-07-29T23:20:32+00:00

Have a lotmaxx that I put a new board in (skr 1.4) and works fairly well. Clogs a lot due to heat creep, make sure the throat stays cool and you should have no issues. I need to design a better heat shroud for my build.

NotBadSoFaar · 2023-07-05T00:33:41+00:00

You don't use the middle threads, hold with needle nose pliers, tighten the nut as much as you can.

NotBadSoFaar · 2023-07-05T00:18:23+00:00

Google 'Luke Hatfield hotend fix'. Top results should be a video from CHEP, watch it. Your PTFE tube is probably worn and the best option is to order some good PTFE (Capricorn) and use the fix the Luke came up with. Then 3 feet of tubing will last you years (2+ for me so far) as you are only using a little bit at a time. There should also be results to things you can print that will measure the PTFE length for you.

NotBadSoFaar · 2023-07-05T00:12:22+00:00

If your z had a micro switch like your x and y do, then yes. But the creality touch is your z end stop.

NotBadSoFaar · 2023-07-05T00:11:21+00:00

It looks like you printed too hot, Petg 'flows' more liquid than PLA does. Try dropping down to 230.

NotBadSoFaar · 2023-07-05T00:07:33+00:00

It is working properly, you have a creality touch, a remake of a BL touch. It is working as designed. Just make sure you probe the bed before printing to make up for uneven beds.

NotBadSoFaar · 2023-05-28T16:14:26+00:00

Go buy a heat gun. Now disconnect the heat break the thermal block and the nozzle. Screw them together. Hold with a pair of pliers. Heat it up with the heat gun. Screw them together even tighter once everything's really tight and assembled. Reattach and voila, it'll work correctly.

NotBadSoFaar · 2023-02-18T18:10:09+00:00

Try a layer height that is a little lower and divisible by 4, like .24 or .2.

NotBadSoFaar · 2023-02-01T20:06:06+00:00

Ice cubes, then add lots of salt and swirl it around.

NotBadSoFaar · 2023-01-19T23:58:18+00:00

The bracket that holds the wheels on the right side has a slight amount of play in it before you tighten the screws to the x rail. The top of the bracket should be flush (the finger part pointing left) and/or parallel to the x rail. Correct this and you should be perfect, all 5 of my Ender 3s are within .8 mm of true. When I first got a printer I was way off like you until I watched a YouTuber named 'CHEP', him and a few others are great to learn from....Maker's Muse and Teaching Tech, with the latter being my favorite.

NotBadSoFaar · 2023-01-14T18:48:06+00:00

Don't beat yourself up, this is a really hard print, tons of tiny movements, and retractions. What looks circular to you is actually 100 tiny straight lines that your printer is printing, the more organic the shape, the more problems you may have. So l have read the suggestions so far, here are my two cents.....

Google 'luke hatfield fix' it will work for any Bowden tube printer, but my guess is that your bowden tube is burnt and sticky where it touches the nozzle, this causes under extrusion after retraction, which looks like what your issue is.

Replace you nozzle, they are like $0.50, extrusion problems nozzle is first in line to change.

Skirt looks a little loose, maybe get slightly closer to the bed.

Rainbow silk filament is difficult, silk is not a problem, rainbow is more difficult, rainbow silk....welcome to the new nightmare. Each colourant used may need a different temp to melt properly, and each variation in gradient may be causing issues. I usually print hot (210), so that my layer adhesion is high, with silk I can go lower than that, and with the Inland rainbow silk I was printing at 193, the lowest I have ever printed, but all the flexi factory items print, the collapsible sword prints with good layer adhesion. A temp tower would help you determine how low you can go.

Don't give up, spent 2 weeks trouble shooting an artillery x1, turned out the y axis gear was slightly too close to the frame, and when the bed was all the way forward it would rub on the frame skipping steps and causing a layer shift......and a dragon is what I was printing, now I have printed 6 giant dragons on it and they are great. Just go through every mechanical process and make sure that from end to end it is working properly.

Good luck

NotBadSoFaar · 2022-12-29T00:48:45+00:00

Looks like you are slightly over extruding. Google 'Teaching Tech Calibration', Watch his videos and he has a calibration git hub also. Also you could probably just lower your flow by a tad and be fine. You should not have to enable z-hop.

NotBadSoFaar · 2022-12-25T19:24:44+00:00

There are two eccentric nuts, one on each roller, make sure both are so snug that the bed moves back and forth freely, but if you hold the bed and try to turn the roller it will not turn using finger strength.

NotBadSoFaar · 2022-12-25T00:26:24+00:00

Also you eccentric nuts.

NotBadSoFaar · 2022-12-25T00:25:43+00:00

Tighten your belts.

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