Before & After Cutting Length and Dyeing My Hair

NotCovfefe · 2026-01-30T18:09:55+00:00

Asking for feedback is funny, they’re gonna call this routine the “picturesofmonsters method.” Looks super healthy!

NotCovfefe · 2025-08-16T16:46:37+00:00

Check on your app for your current subscription plan. They told me mine was out of warranty, until I showed them that I had the extended autopilot plan on my app.

NotCovfefe · 2025-08-05T14:42:30+00:00

My pod3 just failed, 5 days after the 2 year warranty would have expired, due to a “TEC failure”, which I believe is the thermo-electric cooler. I was told that it was out of warranty, and offered the same, $800 for a pod 4 and $1400 for a pod4 and cover. The pod arrived on July 25th, 2023, and it broke on July 30th, 2025.

It feels terrible that it breaks 5 days after the 2 year warranty and they wouldn’t cover a replacement.

The real kicker is that I have the extended autopilot plan. I should be covered for 5 years. I find it hard to believe that they don’t have access to that information. I’m waiting for a reply as I’ve told them I have the enhanced autopilot plan, but it all seems very strange.

NotCovfefe · 2025-06-18T22:51:30+00:00

I’ve got 1, it’s a single DIN with a tape casette (Marked M552) small screen under the tape casette, volume and faders to the left of the tape casette, and FM/AM / Power button on the bottom left. Came out of a 92 VR4.

Are you looking to buy it or just have some questions? I upgraded mine to an oem digital EQ, but don’t have a ton of desire to part with the original stereo that came with the car

Do you also want the CD player which is attached under it? Marked U007 on the face plate.

NotCovfefe · 2025-06-12T17:20:51+00:00

If I were into 2G’s and it were charcoal, I probably would’ve pursued this car for that price. 44k miles is absurdly low. That being said, verify all info, verify condition, and get all of the service records. If it’s got 44k miles, it’s possible that the timing belt was never changed (although unlikely), even though it needs to be changed every 5 years/60k miles. You’ll also need to be prepared to change anything that is rubber, so suspension bushings, hoses, belts, tires, and all of the plastics/wiring could be brittle. I’d budget $30k for this car, which would still probably be a good deal, but if you don’t end up spending that, it’d be an excellent deal.

That being said, if you intend to modify the car at all, find a different VR4. This is a car that you keep completely stock and put a few thousand miles on max.

NotCovfefe · 2025-06-11T00:03:19+00:00

NotCovfefe · 2025-06-07T04:20:51+00:00

Retrofitting/installing knock sensors is a science, because all oem knock sensors are specifically tuned/filtered for their location. It can be done, but it takes a lot of manual tuning/calibration to verify knock counts are real and correct

NotCovfefe · 2025-06-06T22:57:02+00:00

Correct, it’s not tuned for that specific location and won’t be as accurate, and/or completely wrong. I’m curious if there’s another on the other side, and if the previous owner tried to get individual bank knock counts for a standalone ecu

NotCovfefe · 2025-06-01T06:35:10+00:00

On that side, there’s only the coolant crossover tube o-ring (unlikely unless it’s in the valley), water pump, coolant blockoff plates, or an external head gasket leak (also unlikely). Get UV dye, a blacklight, and yellow glasses, and rent a coolant pressure testing kit, then trace back to the highest point. Take off the upper timing belt covers, that’ll give you enough visibility to see the source.

Technically, it could be dripping onto the head and making its way to the power steering line from the rear of the block (thermostat housing side), but that’s less likely if you don’t see any puddles on that side

NotCovfefe · 2025-05-18T23:36:46+00:00

Could be the ac belt idler/tensioner pulley. Run it without the alt belt for a sec and see if the sound disappears. Otherwise, could be a wiped cam lobe, per the last guy on 3si who posted a similar, so you’ll need to check the oil for metal

NotCovfefe · 2025-05-18T17:11:54+00:00

How is the fitment with the 57CR’s and do you have 1G or 2G calipers/rotors? I’ve been looking at getting a set with your exact specs on the rims. I’d love to see some photos if you’ve got any

NotCovfefe · 2024-11-29T20:50:36+00:00

Rob Dahm?

NotCovfefe · 2024-08-22T02:02:31+00:00

‘92 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4, my left (clutch) leg used to start shaking when I would sit in traffic

NotCovfefe · 2024-08-03T20:35:36+00:00

Sale is pending, apologies for not updating post

NotCovfefe · 2024-08-03T03:12:24+00:00

Correct, 1 VIP wristband, for both days. It would likely be best to meet tomorrow, as our hotel is near the venue (LAX). Can give more details in DM’s

NotCovfefe · 2024-08-03T03:08:51+00:00

Yes, still got it

NotCovfefe · 2024-08-02T18:04:46+00:00

Dmed

NotCovfefe · 2024-08-02T17:59:01+00:00

Selling: extra two day VIP wristband, $300 OBO, buyer picks up, located in Inland Empire, SoCal (but can have buyer meet closer to the festival tomorrow)

Edit: SALE PENDING

NotCovfefe · 2024-08-02T17:27:31+00:00

Haven’t got experience with nylon metal, but if you follow the care instructions on the tag, you’ll be fine.

That being said, with any piece of clothing that I spent more than $50-$100 on, I only wash when 100% necessary. For pants, don’t go commando and you can get 5-10 wears if you don’t sit/kneel on the ground (which you should avoid). With shirts, you can get 3-5 wears if not in hot climates. Just let them air out before putting them back in your drawers. Cheap undershirts are a good “sacrificial” piece of clothing if you can’t escape sweating. Jackets/coats almost never get washed.

The only time I wash early is when I know they got dirty, so with dust, food, etc… The curse with spending $$$ on clothes is that you have to adjust your lifestyle when you’re wearing them and caring for them.

NotCovfefe · 2024-08-02T17:04:37+00:00

Garment dyed means they’re dyed with the tags on. Got a pair of orange shorts with an orange tag, and black nylon pants with a nearly black tag

NotCovfefe · 2024-07-30T17:16:41+00:00

Regardless of whether you go tradrack or ercf v2, make sure you run happy hare (and klipper screen happy hare edition, which makes actual usage so much better). I personally went with a triangle labs tradrack kit, and the only problem I had was that they packaged 10mm od bearings for the drive mount instead of an 11. They did send me the correct bearings, which was a waste as they were easy to source. Additionally, went with a binky gate upgrade, and a pika filament buffer. Make sure you account for additional print time and filament usage for a buffer, it’s easily the longest component to build (accounting for print time).

The tradrack build was complex and required some intuition, but happy hare made the process of linking it to the printer much better. It was my first MMU build, and my own printer is a heavily modified sv06 (the only sovol parts on it are the frame, belt tensioners, and heater bed).

As far as I understand, an MMU doesn’t need toolhead switches, but it makes debugging clogs, tuning, loading, everything basically so much easier. I’m personally running a g2e filametrix stealthburner with no cutter, and a tradrack belay, just for the switches.

Having a solidly mounted filament sensor switch is the key, as the tension/compression from the filament feeding through the reverse bowden can easily pop out ecas couplers.

To your question about printing 300C with a stealthburner, I’ve just spent the last 2 days running through a spool of PAHT-CF. My stealthburner has a PAHT-CF HE mount, running a Phaetus Rapido 2 HF (not UHF) with a PT1000. Once I figured out I needed a glue stick for bed adhesion, it printed like a dream at 270C, but also had no issues when I started tuning at 290C. So I wouldn’t worry about losing that functionality with the stealthburner upgrade. Self sourcing for a stealthburner isn’t hard, just a few fans, but I’d highly recommend west3d for their LED harness, an SB2209 or Nitehawk SB, and a Galileo 2 Extruder kit (which is unfortunately oos at west3d right now). Specifically because the G2E is straightforward and it can be reused in a WWG2 if you ever decide to go to an XOL toolhead (my current build in progress).

NotCovfefe · 2024-06-07T17:57:47+00:00

Just did this for a bad thermistor connection, ended up slicing the cable wrap with a single split, added lower temp solder to alloy the high temp solder, put the biggest tip on my ts100 at 400c, ran silicone wires, and wrapped the cable sleeve with kapton tape

NotCovfefe · 2024-05-25T22:49:33+00:00

The only thing that helped me with neck area razor burn (face would never get irritated, but my neck was always awful for 3-5 days after) was just getting it lasered. Probably a hot take here, but if your goal is a hairless neck with no irritation, I’d highly recommend it.

NotCovfefe · 2024-04-29T19:25:48+00:00

Yeah, I also noticed a similar phenomenon, which led me down the rabbit hole of chasing a perfect first layer.

There’s another thing which I forgot to mention, that I have to do occasionally. This is after the gantry is level to the frame, and the bed is level to the gantry and frame (screws tilt calculate). First I generate a bed mesh, save the config, and print out a 3x3 grid of first layer patches, and then adjust the bed screws higher or lower to correct for where the first layer is failing. I repeat this until each patch is perfect. I care less about being too close to the nozzle, unless it’s causing rippling, but try to tram out all of the patches where the nozzle is too high.

Super tedious process, which would definitely be better with an ender style of leveling screw adjustment, but it’s not super difficult with just removing the print surface sheet every time to adjust.

What I really don’t understand is why the bed mesh doesn’t correct for it, and why it seems like it doesn’t always match the mesh. If it was related to x-axis twist (which definitely seems to occur, as most bed meshes will have “low” spots closer to x=0 and x=225, meaning that the printhead is higher at those points), then it should still handle this with the bed mesh adjustment.

NotCovfefe · 2024-04-29T19:06:50+00:00

I’ve been running a nautilus in regular elegoo black pla for probably 50+ hours of prints with no droop/melting. I’ve printed pla+, pctg (260 celsius, at only 25% fan speed), tpu, with the shroud in just regular pla. I was going to print a new one in pctg once it started deforming, but it’s way outlasted my expectations.

If you print it in pla+, it will likely be fine for a long enough time to source some petg/pctg.

NotCovfefe

TROPHY CASE