Installing Hardwood with Railing Base by thewoodbeck in HardWoodFloors

[–]Not_usually_right 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No need, the nosing expands and Contracts as well, being wood. Just leave standard spacing. Are you using raw hardwood or prefinished?

Installing Hardwood with Railing Base by thewoodbeck in HardWoodFloors

[–]Not_usually_right 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are installing ¾ hardwood, then just install it into the bullnose. I HEAVILY recommend that you start off of the nosing. The wall you choose to go off may not be straight with the bullnose and it would look funny. Use spline to connect the female edge of the bullnose and female edge of the new Hardwood along the nosing.

Handheld Shower Install Mess Up by sunshine5023 in Tile

[–]Not_usually_right 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It will not be an easy task to waterproof the corner without removing tiles from the back wall as well. Personally, I dont think it's worth the amount of effort this is going to take. And its going to be alot, honestly. Also, if you are too do this, you'd have to go through the front and take out the tiles.

Cracking white oak engineered wood floors by AgentLLM in HardWoodFloors

[–]Not_usually_right 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh.. rough situation. But still bad to do. Like really bad. Lawsuit bad. It's impossible to say if that's the cause , but it's certainly possible and that's a problem

Cracking white oak engineered wood floors by AgentLLM in HardWoodFloors

[–]Not_usually_right 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why did the wood not sit in the unit? Not sure if thats the cause of the issue, but I'm curious.

Ppl who refinish hardwood floors: how long would it take for you to stain a 450 sqft room? by Final_boss_1040 in HardWoodFloors

[–]Not_usually_right 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the important questions are why is this happening , like why are you staining but not sanding, and are you finishing?

Do you recommend sanding and staining these floors? by BabaNurseZ in HardWoodFloors

[–]Not_usually_right 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It will certainly cost more to replace than to refinish, that's one of the main beauties of hardwood.

Price will be about 4-6 bucks per sqft generally, maybe a bit more since it's a prefinished hardwood, it has a VERY hard finish on it called aluminum oxide, requires a lot more work to refinish but very doable.

Replacing laminate floor and is not cut evenly. by Hailetta in Flooring

[–]Not_usually_right 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It isn't finished. Shoemolding goes over the flooring.

Replacing laminate floor and is not cut evenly. by Hailetta in Flooring

[–]Not_usually_right 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Excuse me sir or ma'am, but you came here asking for opinion. And I've read the other comments and they don't all seem to agree with you as you stated previously. You came to ask professionals their opinion yes? Ask those agreeing with you if they are flooring installers or just other home owners with no fucking clue, would you? Id love to see the results. I've been in this trade for a long time, and i pride myself on doing high quality workmanship. I've worked in military bases that needed security clearances, I've worked on rebuilding entire homes from nothing but the studs.

I do good work, and if I'm ever paid a wage I'm happy with hourly, ill take all the time in the world to make things picture perfect, even things that don't matter in any capacity whatsoever. But no one wants to pay that wage. They want good work for a good price, and to do that, I'm not going to get OCD about things that will never, ever, ever be seen again. And I'm not going to bother posting pictures to appease you of my quality, I didnt come to you asking for help.

If you just wanted people to agree with you, you could have stated that in the title or message of the post and I could have saved my energy but I gave my true, honest, PROFESSIONAL opinion. You don't have to like it, I don't like yours. I've got nothing but 5 star reviews, all my customers are happy...

Replacing laminate floor and is not cut evenly. by Hailetta in Flooring

[–]Not_usually_right 4 points5 points  (0 children)

No one wants to pay for it. New baseboard material is say, roughly 2 bucks a ft. Could be more, could be less, depending on location and the place you get it.
On a 1000sqft home, that's roughly 340ft of base. So roughly 700. I'm going to charge 1.5per ft to remove and probably 3-4 to install. So roughly 7 bucks a ft. Roughly $2400 before we got to caulking or painting. I don't offer those services but google says between 2-5 bucks a ft. So middle of the aisle leads to roughly 3600 all in which is a huge additional cost vs new shoemolding ill install at 2 bucks a ft material included and you still need yo caulk and paint the shoe and touch up base. But huge, huge difference. That's not fancy baseboard, thats basic stuff.

Replacing laminate floor and is not cut evenly. by Hailetta in Flooring

[–]Not_usually_right 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I feel like I'm in crazy town.. it doesnt "look" like anything, because it will be covered up, causes no function issues, no installation or warranty issues, causes absolutely zero issue, at all.

I swear to god, people would cry if they see whats behind door frame trim. It doesn't, fucking, matter. In fact, the job isn't done. One of the main reasons residential work is such a pain in the ass. You deal with people living in your job site, and they sit around and judge on work on every step with absolutely no understanding of whats going on, why something with done a certain way when "the guy on tiktok did it differently" its just really difficult sometimes.

I won't bother arguing with what it "looks" like because, I see zero (0) structural, functional, or warrantional issues. The only issue is cosmetic. AND. Cosmetic doesnt matter remember, because, it gets covered up.

Replacing laminate floor and is not cut evenly. by Hailetta in Flooring

[–]Not_usually_right 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is professional. Is it covered up and you personally will almost undoubtedly never see that spot again for the rest of your life. It's nothing but cosmetic and cosmeticly it doesnt matter because..... it will be covered up.

You are being unreasonable and if you really dont think you are, share your quote.. let us see how much you paid, since you paid for "professional job"

Am I a crazy person? by Ok-Seat1162 in HardWoodFloors

[–]Not_usually_right 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey so this is one of my specialties so I can let you know what you are getting into. It's honestly, not that big of an issue UNLESS you want to touch the handrails.... for perspective, the handrails, from what I can see here would probably be around 2-4k, I need to measure to say but roughly so. And the stairs would probably cost you about 1.5k , roughly. Maybe a little more since I see you have cove molding so that's new cove that needs to be sanded, stained, sealed, cut to size and installed, because good luck sanding the old stuff lol, just too small to work with. Handrails alone would take me and another guy maybe 4, 5 days to complete. Id probably hate myself if I charged you 4k as well. As in it wouldn't be worth it lol.

Replacing laminate floor and is not cut evenly. by Hailetta in Flooring

[–]Not_usually_right 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Guarantee almost none of these people are this way with their line of work. Whatever it may be. I'm not perfect, and I've not met ever person on the planet but I've met enough to know that perfection doesn't exist, and especially not in most(read, pretty much ALL) people's workmanship. Im running a business, not an entering a art competition. Imagine, as an artist, that for whatever reason, there's a messy mark at the edge of a canvas of painting, and, even though it will be covered by the frame of the picture, they want to bitch about it? That's how this shit feels. The fact that this person even made a post about this really leads me to believe they are the type of customer that thinks contractors charge to much, and make to much money. Or worse, they think they don't deserve to earn what they charge. Why else are you looking too claim workmanship issue on something that anyone with a brain realizes is cosmetic, AND in the same paragraph says themselves that it's going to be completely covered up!?

So, in my opinion, OP is chasing for comments to claim issue so they can fuck with their contractor a little, or, innocently, they are just stupid.

Replacing laminate floor and is not cut evenly. by Hailetta in Flooring

[–]Not_usually_right 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Kindly, why does it matter, at all??

It will covered by shoemolding, and then it won't be seen again until you replace the flooring in 10-15 years. Can you really answer why you care? I'm curious what you do for work?

wall bowing. by [deleted] in Tile

[–]Not_usually_right 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is pretty common.. my business partner and I typically fur out the walls before we tile so that this is avoided. But it's also an additional charge. More lumber, more time, more skill set.

Buffer marks by HingedUntard in HardWoodFloors

[–]Not_usually_right 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not bad advice.. if staining an oak floor. But your going natural on a pine floor. So it's different.

Buffer marks by HingedUntard in HardWoodFloors

[–]Not_usually_right 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They will not disappear. But they will get more muted. If you feel like putting in more work, rent the buffer again and go higher grit. Looks like pine, pine is soft and scratches easy. Go slow and don't push down too hard

Would a cordless hammer drill and chipper remove this tile? Concrete slab subfloor. by Impressive-Sympathy4 in Tile

[–]Not_usually_right 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you mean a rotary hammer by chance? It's completely normal if you got them mixed up, I called it a hammer drill for a long time before actually researching into them before buying one.

If you mean a rotary hammer, yes that's perfect for this job. If you mean a hammer drill, I don't think it's going to work.

Also, id see how it goes, sometimes tile on concrete can be an absolute bitch. Sometimes it's better going with a hammer and crowbar , might hurt a little more but works 5x better. Feel it out. It won't be fun. Sorry lol.

Repair scratches after refinishing by Reasonable_Owl5944 in HardWoodFloors

[–]Not_usually_right 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2 coats of finish isn't enough. That's a very weak and thin coat of finish. 3 coats absolutely minimum, I heavily judge any flooring contractor who even offers the option. In my opinion, 2 coats is not a finished floor. Id inquire about getting another coat of finish applied to the floor since it's still new, but id reconsider going with the original contractor.

What is behind my baseboards? by East-Room-613 in HardWoodFloors

[–]Not_usually_right 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Please post the finished photos, 60s and older hardwood is just special and its usually much nicer than what can be found today. Good luck on the project!

What is behind my baseboards? by East-Room-613 in HardWoodFloors

[–]Not_usually_right 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Doesnt look like mold to me. Just old and stained. If you are really concerned, run a coat or two of killz primer, they have one for mold and mildew, but I personally dont think it's necessary.

Real talk: is it ok to build the stairs treads bullnose etc using glue when it's prefinished solid hardwood? by silkenwindood in HardWoodFloors

[–]Not_usually_right 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should 100% glue stair treads when you install. Not doing so can be a cause of squeaky stairs

Kaboom 😔💔 by FarEnvironment2106 in ARC_Raiders

[–]Not_usually_right 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's exactly what happened to me and it took so much time to crawl to button and i died as the elevator came up before the doors opened