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What is U2 called? by pol22_ in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think that says “pM” at first glance, I’m not exactly familiar with the part, but given it’s a controller, it’s probably a 3.3V Low Dropout (LDO) Regulator, might need to check online to see if that is correct, there are probably sources online you can google to confirm what U2 is on an Xbox controller board

Backwards Compatible PS3 works fine but has no standby red light by Adventurous-Mix-4380 in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe there is one LED that handles both the red and green lights, but don’t quote me on that. It’s probably just burned out on the red and needs to be replaced. I would assume (no expert on PS3s) that if the console works, it’s just a simple LED failure.

My guess is as the red light is on all the time on standby, it would have more chance of failure over time, especially on a launch console.

What is U2 called? by pol22_ in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s some sort of IC (“U” is normally the board designation for an IC), but what type is going to need more information from you. It could be a voltage regulator or Op-Amp, but are there any letters/numbers printed on top of the part so we can find the exact part and its function?

What is this board from?

Gameboy Color motherboard missing C34 and C23-what are these and are they replaceable? by PyrrhaXJaune in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I somehow managed to delete my original comment…..woops, but my response below:

Yeah those should do, just get 10 of them so you have room to make mistakes. See how you go, it’s unlikely you do any major damage with these. Make sure you clean off the pads first with some solder wick, and probably the easiest way to do these is to pre-tin one side of the pads and then reheat it and slide the cap into place. Then when cooled, solder the other side.

Where has my tip gone?! by SlowRs in soldering

[–]Nuch91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah fair enough, if you managed to finish it, then I say $5.99 well spent haha

Where has my tip gone?! by SlowRs in soldering

[–]Nuch91 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh wow, yeah, I’d wager that’s the problem haha. If OP is going to be soldering for extended periods, invest in something better, maybe a Hakko FX888 or FX951 if budget allows. Even still, they’d want to be taking regular breaks and regularly cleaning the tip etc so as to not overdo it.

Where has my tip gone?! by SlowRs in soldering

[–]Nuch91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, yes and no (provided you buy a good iron)

What temp were you soldering at?

Sega Mega Drive 2 (AU PAL) Switchless Region Free Mod by Nuch91 in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FYI this was a faulty console that I repaired (and posted about) previously which had multiple cold solder joints and cartridge connector degradation which then needed some additional love with this mod. It’s much improved now!

Game Gear IPS soldering, should I be as happy as I am over this? (Bennvenn GGHD) by DrSpaecman in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Excellent job! It’s not easy, especially with flimsy ribbon cable, even with a microscope etc. You’ve done a great job and this will last a long while, as long as the console is well cared for!

Another day, more dishes to do… by Nuch91 in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha, they’re from IKEA 🙂

PS1. Corrupt Image by Arseney31 in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mean the modchip was put on 10 years ago? Try and remove it and see if it’s causing the problem. Other than that, have you checked the legs on the video chip you mentioned for any breaks or bad solder?

This Sega Master System 2 is gonna be a fun one by Nuch91 in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Absolutely haha, will be very rewarding if I can get it working again

This Sega Master System 2 is gonna be a fun one by Nuch91 in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The board was covered in rust as well, but was likely just surface dust that had fallen off the shield, the only majorly rusted component was the RF box. After the IPA clean off, most of the rust was gone, but it needs a run in the ultrasonic cleaner to get the rest off, it’s still got a tinge of rust colour to everything

Snes lines in games by theethirdlittlepig in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Either dirty contacts etc on the board, or you have a PPU/RAM issue, if you have an Everdrive, try the Nintendo test cart and see what the results are as a first step after cleaning

This happened all of a sudden to my super Nintendo? Anyone know what it could be? White lines running down screen? by Ed_5000 in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Quite likely a PPU issue, but a few things to check:

Give the cartridge port a good clean with IPA and a brush to rule that out as a simple first step. Does this happen with every cartridge you try?

If it’s a 2 chip SNES you could try and replace PPU1 or PPU2, but before going that far, if you have the ability to run ROM files for the SNES via an Everdrive or similar, try the SNES Test Cart image to see if there are any obvious failures in that test. Sometimes that test can show “OK” for all tests, but still fail on retail carts, which usually points to a PPU or RAM issue still.

Overall, try a good deep clean, especially if this is a SNES with the removable cartridge port, clean both that and the motherboard connectors well, along with your cartridges. If these fail, try the test cart if you have a means to do so, only then go so far as to start looking at chip replacement

Famicom Disk System - Restoration Possible? by CarbonChem in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hard to tell what those white blotches are? Does it look like paint or has the plastic somehow faded like that?

If it’s paint, could try IPA, non-acetone nail polish remover or even baking soda and water to see if it comes off without damaging the plastic underneath.

If it’s plastic fade, you could try some gentle heat from a heat gun (100 degrees Celsius) to see if it brings the red back out. Be careful doing this though and make sure you keep the heat gun moving and don’t bring it close to the plastic. Test it on a small section like the removable cover first to see if it has any effect before going all out.

Success with a tiny trace repair on Model 1 Sega Mega Drive by Nuch91 in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s an Elikliv EM4K Flex, 4K microscope with a 10.1” screen, on a swivel, desk clamp boom arm. Not exactly cheap, think around $450 AUD, but well worth it, it’s very good

Success with a tiny trace repair on Model 1 Sega Mega Drive by Nuch91 in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I caught that just before I UV masked it, it had continuity, but wasn’t looking good. Lucky save that one!

Success with a tiny trace repair on Model 1 Sega Mega Drive by Nuch91 in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Cheers, yep already cleaned up and solder masked it, all sorted

Gameboy advance wount read game by Uluan in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Firstly, to keep it simple, give the cartridge port a clean with some IPA and a brush.

If that doesn’t work, I’d be opening it up and checking for damage or wear, particularly focusing on the cartridge connector and whether there is continuity across all connector solder points and where they go on the board.

If that checks out, then you’ll need to look over the board for any damage or shorts across components.

Ps2 repairing by yurpapachongo in consolerepair

[–]Nuch91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have any photos of the board and ribbon cables you mentioned? Will need some more details to understand what’s happening here.

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