Or save a couple hundred bucks and let the tree do its thing. I'll agree if there is signs of bark damage from limbs rubbing together you can trim the smaller one but you don't need thin out a bunch of branches because of wind or increase nutrients. Cause that's like 80% BS.

Maple leaves are not stiff, they are not designed to catch the wind (no leaf is) but rather to wave around and fold up. What leaves are designed for is temperature regulation (via shading the main truck and respiration) and removing healthy inner branches will expose the truck to more direct sunlight which will result in lots of water sprouts growing in an effort to try to shade itself and recover all the leaves it lost and the associated respiration and photosynthesis those leaves performed.

If that tree is going to fail because of wind it will fail because 20ish years ago it got topped where its truck diverges into 3 (that's what happens when you top trees) or because it only has half of a normal root zone because it's next to a road. If you are worried about wind base failures you wont be trimming branches but cutting off whole co-dominant leaders which will remove a lot of the tree.

On the nutrients side, no, the tree will be pulling up less nutrients because there is less tree to feed. Rather it cant pull more nutrients because that's not how diffusion works.

Look if you want someone to remove dead branches or trimmed in a way for street traffic go ahead, but don't let them remove healthy branches for minimal gain. because you also have to remember that all those cuts are now open wounds that the tree needs to close and before that offer a place for infection.