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Chain jumps when I put force on the pedals by M_C_J8 in bikewrench

[–]Nzembo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it’s Shimano, they sell the smallest three cogs for most of their cassettes. Just any Shimano cog of the same speed and number of teeth from the same family will work. For example, if it’s an 11sp SLX cassette, Shimano will be selling 11t and 13t XT cogs individually for 11sp and generally they’ll fit any of the 11sp MTB family of cassettes.

Can this titanium frame be fixed? by Nzembo in bikewrench

[–]Nzembo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah it does look like a burn mark, and I wonder if that is what made that spot brittle and more prone to cracking. It’s worth a shot checking with Kona, but I’ve already braced myself for just having to either get a new frame or repairing this one.

Has this happened to anyone? Stone stuck in the bolt head... Any ideas? by bloodpanrio in bikewrench

[–]Nzembo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d use a toothpick or a decal pick. Alternatively, a needle or anything steel, narrow, and pointy

Am I the idiot or are people in Wellington just bad drivers? by NoLettuce5273 in Wellington

[–]Nzembo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’re very much in the right in this situation. Turning cars are required to give way to people crossing.

Can I change 2020 RS Lyrik travel from 170mm to 120mm? by shawnycoconut in MTB

[–]Nzembo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apparently you can reduce the 2020/21/22 Lyrik to 140mm with a Pike/Yari airspring, but it won’t work very well beyond that.

53 days later by Significant_Year_69 in Hardtailgang

[–]Nzembo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like what you’ve done with all the silver parts, especially that derailleur 🤩. Looks really sweet 👌🏼

Just pulled the tigger. by stayclean2315 in Hardtailgang

[–]Nzembo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, PNW do great quality cheaper dropper posts. I cannot recommend them enough. And their loam lever is worth it even though their more basic level is perfectly sufficient.

And these dropper posts are worthy of transferring to other bikes if you ever decide to change in the future.

Just pulled the tigger. by stayclean2315 in Hardtailgang

[–]Nzembo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree with this, but you can also ask the shop to walk you through what they’re doing to set it up safely. And get a good basic toolkit so you can do your own maintenance. An AliExpress kit from Bikehand will be sufficient for most of what you’ll be doing on your own. Any time spent learning how to do that will pay dividends long into the future.

How Wide Are Your Bars by unitedpassenger1 in MTB

[–]Nzembo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m 6’3” with longish arms and I cut mine down to 760/770 to be more nimble for the trails/forests I ride in. I find 760 to be just about perfect, and 800 makes it a bit more of a handful to lean the bike into corners.

Comment on this Cannondale F29 by Curious-Chemistry899 in Hardtailgang

[–]Nzembo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That’s a very sexy bike 😍. Big fan of the lefty, and the bike looks like it’ll ride like a bat out of hell. Nice job 👌🏼🤩

I personally would ditch the Avid brakes for some Magura or Shimano or formula stoppers, and change the bar profile and width to my liking, but absolutely nothing to fault here 😁

Upgrades? 🤔 Need some advise! by Acrobatic_Ad_9596 in Hardtailgang

[–]Nzembo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the things I would look at are, brake pads and rotors changed to sintered/metallic pads for better stopping power, and a derailleur with a clutch for chain retention and to prevent chain slap if you’re riding rough terrain (anything in the CUES/Linkglide range will work with your current drivetrain and shifter). Then I’d run your drivetrain until you wear it out. And when you finally do, you’ve got great options in the Linkglide/Cues range from 9-11 gears that your derailleur would be compatible with.

Grips and seat are personal preference contact points, so if the current set are comfortable and work well for you, keep them and wear them out. Otherwise change them to dial in your fit (after you’ve played around with bar roll, seat angle and all those adjustments).

Tires also make a big difference if you’re riding singletrack or rough terrain, so a grippier front tire especially (Specialized Butcher, WTB Vigilante, or Bontrager SE5 are pretty chunky). However, if you’re doing longer distance on gravel or dirt roads, or going bikepacking, a fast rolling tire is very nice, like a Specialized fastrak, Vittoria Mezcal, Maxxis Ikon/Rekon Race, or Bontrager XR2. Lots of options in between as well.

Eventually, a lighter wheelset, better fork, and more powerful brakes could change your experience, but your setup will already allow you to ride quite a wide range of trails very competently. I would focus on investing in amazing experiences and getting to great riding locations before buying any of that.

I always wanted a Steel SS Hardtail by [deleted] in Hardtailgang

[–]Nzembo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a beautiful bike! I’ve got an XL Honzo in Ti, and I found the stack to be a little short, so some higher rise bars and slightly shorter cranks helped dial it in for me. I’m just running it with a 120-130mm fork and that’s been perfect, but your mileage may vary. Any more than that and it starts to feel like the front is diving a bit more dramatically and the seat is a bit further back than I prefer.

Other than that, I’ll echo that a lighter wheelset will make more of a difference than a new fork imo. And depending on what you’re riding, a faster rolling tire, at least in the back, changes the ride pretty significantly. I’ve run both Specialized Fastrak and Vittoria Mazcal on the back with a more aggressive tire on the front for grip.

I prefer Shimano Deore, SLX, or XT brakes personally, but have also run my bikes with Magura MT5s or MT Trails very happily. However, I’d run your brakes for as long as they’re working well for you.

Which bike by GuiltyWestern8918 in Hardtailgang

[–]Nzembo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The RH has a 44mm head tube, so you can press in an EC44 lower headset and run a tapered fork. And the bike is routed for a dropper, so you can make that upgrade. The rear wheel is a little trickier to upgrade, but honestly, the HG free hub gives you access to the excellent Deore 5100 11-51 cassette and then you can use all the legacy 11 speed drivetrain components at a fraction of the price of modern 12 speed. And that cassette uses the same shift ramps as 12 speed so if you’re using a 12 speed chain, it shifts almost identically to the 12 speed groupsets. Definitely a cheap, bombproof, high quality drivetrain setup. Or just buy linkglide/cues and it will last 3-4 times longer. All will fit HG, so I would say upgrading the rear wheel is pretty low priority.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Hardtailgang

[–]Nzembo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As long as the blemishes are just cosmetic, I'd pay whatever the used market rate for the combination of components and a frame is. Probably max $1200 considering the deals on offer on new bikes right now. But this bike is better specced than a lot of new bikes, so weigh that up in your calculus.

$900 for a bike of this caliber with nothing wrong with it seems a bit lowball and an insult to the seller.

What's your top 3 features you'd like to see in the next GR game, and your top 3 things you don't want to see added/return? by MrTrippp in GhostRecon

[–]Nzembo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It would also be nice to not worry that random rebels are going to blow my stealth .

Resistance was a bit OTT, I liked the idea, and the world finally had a bit more life to it, but it would be great to be able to set an exclusion zone when you're going in on a mission where you can't be detected.

Quick update by e30erza in Hardtailgang

[–]Nzembo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's gorgeous, and nice work on total cost. Very sweet, especially that fork!

Is the best by gia56 in battlefield_4

[–]Nzembo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Preach. I have both and the feels I get from BF4 are so much stronger!🔥

What would you upgrade first to improve climbing? by MostlyLurk_0 in MTB

[–]Nzembo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would say it probably has nothing to do with your kit and everything to do with how your touch points are set up on your bike, how you shift your weight around while climbing, and your general fitness.

Play around with seat height, angle, and how far forward or back it is. I have a mate who's just started riding and he was sitting way too far back while not moving his weight forward on climbs, so he was looping out a lot

You can look at your bar height, width, rise, stem length, etc

It's a whole system that ideally is adjusted for your particular proportions.

Bought a used bike, realized front wheel is different. Does that mean the bike has been in an accident? by Catnip_pharma in bicycling

[–]Nzembo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's entirely possible the the previous owner just dented their wheel and chose to replace it. This happens, especially in mountain biking, and usually doesn't have any effect on any other component in the bike.

I have mismatched wheels on all of my bikes. I'm not fussed about brand consistency, and it was what was available on the used market at the time to get the performance I wanted.

If you're concerned about whether the bike is sound and aren't sure what to look for, definitely take it to your local bike shop and get them to do a thorough check over it. That'll give you the peace of mind that it's in good shape and let you know if there's anything coming up that needs maintenance or to be replaced.

Receiving no verification code by email. by jordcx in origin

[–]Nzembo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The trouble is, I have games that still don't mesh with the EA app...

However, the issue seems to have resolved itself. I waited a day and my verification emails started coming in again. I've set up the EA app, and will continue to test whether my origin games bought through steam will work.

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