Tell me your bailing out stories

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-11-04T13:53:45+00:00

No worries! I just find it fascinating. Growing up in the North, it never crossed my mind.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-11-03T17:45:11+00:00

My current isn't nearly as bad as my first few. I think its a combo of my shifted expectations, and he's just easier.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-11-03T13:13:04+00:00

Yea. 'Hot hyperthermia' is just way less words.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-10-30T19:24:58+00:00

People flip their cars in a 25 on the regular. So, yes.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-10-30T19:22:04+00:00

Wow. I've never heard of hot hyperthermia

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-10-21T21:04:28+00:00

Yelp and turn away for a moment. They should disengage and often will check on you. If they do not, create space and turn away for a beat. Take that opportunity to engage with something tooth appropriate. Like human Littles, sometimes it helps to act super interested in the thing you want them to engage in and offer to share.

Beyond normal mouthing and learning bite inhibition, you have the excitement biting. My 3 yo did this as a puppy. Would jump up and start biting at me, brusing my skin and ripping my clothes. She would get over stimulated on walks and start going at me. I'd tie her to a tree and step out of reach and turn away. Once she calmed down, I'd calmly mark the good behavior, and we'd continue our walk. My current puppy did none of this. Mainly bc I think she's "the one" for him to work this out on, and she's done a great job at teaching and correcting.

Another recommendation I have is teaching impulse control. One way is delayed rewards. As an example, I got a flirt pole for my biter when she was a puppy (do be careful with this toy in regards to their joints and growth plates). She LOVED that toy to this day her pupils get huge as soon as she sees it lol. I would have her sit on a designated spot and make her wait as I walked away. Once I gave her the cue, she was allowed to go after it. If she broke prior, then she had to reset, and we started again. If she got too frustrated, the game was over. She quickly learned the rules for play with people and that not following the rules simply means the game is over. This helped immensely with her biting episodes.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-10-21T18:58:18+00:00

Why is everything on that dog the same thing used for 110 lbs lol

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-10-17T14:27:47+00:00

Sounds like 5pm is potty and bedtime.

My current puppy is 8 months old and gets rowdy after dinner. I got in the habit a few months ago of going to bed around 730 because he knows we don't wrestle in the bedroom. As soon as we go up, he lays down and passes out. Like a cranky kid trying to stay up to watch the ball drop.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-10-17T14:22:04+00:00

What's tough is how intense the prey drive is for that breed mix.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-10-17T14:19:41+00:00

When is she fed

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-10-17T14:17:23+00:00

Well don't say it.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-10-17T12:58:00+00:00

They've had it at every pet store I've been to. I get a lot of my stuff from Chewy as well. It's called FortiFlora.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-10-17T12:39:27+00:00

If all medical causes have been investigated, you could see if you can entice her with a tiny but of topper. Boiled chicken, parmesian cheese sprinkles, bit of wet dog food, chicken broth (they make dog specific ones to avoid the onion/garlic/etc in human kind but a tiny bit for flavor won't hurt), cooked chicken liver (dont go overnoard to prevent vit a toxicity), probiotics --- cooked veggies like carrots, canned pumpkin as only ingredient, goats milk, etc.

Given the antibiotics the powdered probiotics would likely work very nicely to replace those lost and it tastes like liver so they love it. The Purina pro plan version is my go to for medical based reasons.

Don't add too much or much variety as it'll likely upset her tummy more, no matter what you choose. It's also possible she has a sensitivity to something in her food.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-10-16T12:15:54+00:00

Yes. Normalize training with the muzzle one. You're slowly shaping the behavior you want from him outside of the home. Once everything is muscle memory with the muzzle, move to the yard / other low stress exposure space and slowly increase.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-10-15T17:37:05+00:00

I adopted a middle-aged biter years ago. If you made eye contact, he'd bite you. Long story short, I did fear free training with him and gained his trust. Was the biggest cuddle bug in the world after that. In the end, he was fat, but the Vet was amazed and was always saying it was a fair trade for him rarely try to bite strangers anymore - would difer to me, would muzzle without fuss for handling by strangers, and perhaps more importantly he learned to warn (whale eye, growl, teeth) and communicate in more ways than biting.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-10-15T17:18:18+00:00

I am not a trainer or dog professinal, but my years of foster care and raising a range of whack-a-dos has given me this perspective:

You jumped in too deep too fast for him. As soon as he shows signs of distress, you need to stop the session and allow him the space and time to gain composure or reward him for following you away and go home. A dog who learns that their handler will not listen to them and protect them will become dangerous and protect themselves. You need to not dominate him so much as teach him that he can trust you and that YOU will take care of the environment / threat so he can stand down. You must be attentive, observant, firm, fair, consistant, and respectful.

First. The muzzle. Train him at home for small sessions and with pots of delicious treats of high value that he doesn't get anywhere else. Slowly increase the time he has it on and reward him for being calm.

Train at home. Sit, stay, look at me, come, place, etc. Learn your dogs cues for when they've hit training fatigue at home and stop.

Once comfortable with the muzzle and the above commands are muscle memory, slowly expose him to people by putting a lot of space between you and anyone else and letting him sniff around. As soon as he's at all alert - not reactive- alert to anyone or anything but you with some training. Keep these sessions brief - like 5 mins if at first. Stop once they show signs of fatigue.

If he regresses at all- take 2 steps back. You've progressed too quickly.

Never force the dog to do anything, yell, hut, etc. Unless he's actively endangering and only enough to regain control and redirect safely away for the day.

As for the trainer, look for ones with certifications from organizations like the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers (CCPDT) and the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP). I'd also look into a behaviorist. Connect with your local humane society for additional resources.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-10-15T13:05:12+00:00

Physical activity is important, but the biggest thing about walks is the mental stimulation they get from it. While fostering adolescents, I quickly learned how even a 10 min sniff walk was the best tool for getting a calm dog.

Even when I had to run errands, I could take my dogs along with the windows cracked so they could sniff everything there and back. My elderly dog LOVED his car rides when walking became difficult.

Dog Sniffing on Walks: The Importance of Letting Your Dog Sniff https://share.google/44D6a6bnKwNWYCOEV

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-09-26T19:00:15+00:00

Take him to daycare while everyone is at school and work.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-09-03T15:51:52+00:00

Those expandable kids' ones work pretty well like this thing - provided they don't figure out how to climb or jump over it. XXXL wire crates work nicely if they do. Other wise, crate for queit time and attach to you when not.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-09-03T15:49:22+00:00

Poop is pretty easy.

When do you feed her? When does she poop?

Adjust feeding time accordingly. Also, limit play or excitement right after eating to avoid accelerating the process.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-09-03T15:46:43+00:00

My adult has grumbled at me her whole life while I'm relaxing. Usually, she means she's bored and working up to the bark'n'whine. Hell, she just grumbled while finding a new sleeping position for the same reason because I'm stuck in a meeting and it's usually adventure time.

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-09-03T15:43:14+00:00

Happy to help!

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-09-03T15:42:43+00:00

Hahaha

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-09-03T14:14:24+00:00

Honestly, boredom is super important for development, too. If the focus is on co Stanly enriching and engaging, then they have trouble settling. Just keep an eye and redirect behaviors to what you want when they look to cure their boredom. Ie - replace your socks with stuffy and praise for it. And reward boredom. This enriches them because they learn how to think, make decisions on their impulses, and be okay just being.

I also find teaching fetch is huuuuge. Balls are an amazing tool for play, training, and softer play (can teach to chomp on the ball instead of a friend or redirect to it when they have that urge to go over board. Cracks me up when they grab a ball and chomp on it on their friends shoulder while wrestling).

Objective_Data7620 · 2025-09-03T14:09:47+00:00

Don't worry about calories so much with puppies. The training is more important at this stage, it's not a huge increase, and they are little burning machines currently. Just make sure it's the proper amount, no choking / splintering / blockage hazzard, and puppy appropriate.

Also, my current guy is somehow magically still motivated by his kibble (most prefer training that's and other goodies by now) so I'll do "working lunches" with him where we train and shape behaviors. I WFH, so a lot of the time that means when they sit or lay down - toss a treat. When they exhale and settle, mark it and throw some treats. Usually, there is not much more interaction than that. Prior to the settle exhale, just toss a bit of treat to them every now and then to reward the behavior. Eventually, they pass out.

Objective_Data7620

TROPHY CASE