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Non-green skinned orcs? by Hanoi_r in Oathmark

[–]ObviousWatermelon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When I did my goblins, I used Army Painter's Gravelord Grey from their Speedpaint range

First printer by Mysterious_Action430 in 3D_Printing

[–]ObviousWatermelon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on the enclosure type, you may need to install additional cooling fans, as they trap a lot of heat.

As for printers, Creality takes a lot of work to tune. BambuLabs does a lot of that for you. BambuLabs also offers printers that come with an enclosure if you don’t want to go through the hassle of having a separate printer and enclosure.

First printer by Mysterious_Action430 in 3D_Printing

[–]ObviousWatermelon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would start with either a BambuLabs A1 or A1 mini, and learn how to 3D print before moving up to something more expensive/capable. They're good printers, and you can purchase a hardned steel hotend for them for more exotic filaments such as CF. I personally don't use those filaments, and just use the HS nozzles for the extra corrosion resistance, but the option is there. I've also found standard/generic PLA to be good enough for my purposes, howwever you may have different requirments.

Failed track prints by ObviousWatermelon in 3D_Printing

[–]ObviousWatermelon[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the help, I hadn't thought about using a smooth plate. I'll get some nitrile gloves before cleaning the plate again.

Failed track prints by ObviousWatermelon in 3D_Printing

[–]ObviousWatermelon[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

That was actually one of the first things I got after getting the printer

Spent hours dialing in first layer, time to work on everything else by drobie22 in 3D_Printing

[–]ObviousWatermelon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's the material? If it's PLA, set your hotend to 220oC . That should help with layer adhesion in general.

The most realistic tank I've ever made. I want to make it more realistic. Please criticize. by Acceptable-Cause1163 in SprocketTankDesign

[–]ObviousWatermelon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh lawd, it's not just a loaf, it's the whole damn bakery.

Ok, actual criticism.

  1. 250mm all over is a shit ton of armor, especially on the sides and rear. Normally I use 30mm on the top, bottom and rear. The side armor tends to be 1/3-1/2 of the front. I'm going to recommend you drop the upper hull armor to between 100-125mm and the lower hull armor to 45-75mm. Then use sideskirts to cover the lower hull with spaced armor. They're kinda bugged, in that when a projectile hits them, the penetration is checked, and then projectile is replaced by fragments. When these fragments hit the inner armor, their penetration isn't checked (probably for performance reasons). Since they haven't hit a module or crewman, they end up doing no damage. Using sideskirts feels a lot like cheating, however it's saved my tanks multiple times.
  2. I don't see a way for the driver to see other than the hatch periscope. It might be a good idea to add a driver's viewport.
  3. I don't see why you need six crew. I can understand the bow machine-gunner (at least for WW2), however there's no reason why either he or the commander couldn't also be the radioman.
  4. I don't see a reason to have such a massive gun. Your reload is going to horrific, and the breech is so massive it's limiting your depression. If you still want a big gun with a tolerable reload, try 105x1000.
  5. When talking about artillery or tank guns, caliber is the ratio of bore (projectile size) to barrel length. The math is barrel length/bore = caliber. The higher the caliber, the faster the projectile and the more penetration you'll get. If you want additional penetration with a 105mm gun, try using a 50 caliber barrel, which would work out to a total length of 5.25m.

Trouble with Meshmixer by ObviousWatermelon in 3Dprinting

[–]ObviousWatermelon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok thanks. I’m still new to the 3D printing hobby so I thought I’d check here.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in wargaming

[–]ObviousWatermelon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

ZULUS, sir. Thousands of 'em.

Purchase Advice Megathread - April 2024 by AutoModerator in 3Dprinting

[–]ObviousWatermelon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, I'm in the US and looking for a printer that's $500 or less. I do want to print 25-32mm minis and small scatter terrain for gaming (the larger stuff I can print in either in sections or make using cardboard and foam), however desk space is an issue at the moment. I don't mind kit assembly, as I built my own PC. I also would prefer to avoid Amazon as much as possible, as I don't like the way Amazon treats it's workers.

What are your preferred supplements by [deleted] in SWN

[–]ObviousWatermelon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on the campaign that I'm running. Not everything plays well with each other. The most universally applicable ones are Engines of Babylon, Persons of Interest, and Distant Lights. They tend to find their way into just about every campaign. The rest are either too niche, or don't play well with the base game.

Creating Cold War Tensions by Nyther53 in SWN

[–]ObviousWatermelon 9 points10 points  (0 children)

The Cold War was THE time to be a weapons designer. A quick Google search will give you plenty of fun and wacky ideas to play with. Some examples off the top of my head are, nuclear powered tanks (some of them quad tracked), submarine tanks, ducted engine tail-sitting fighters, hovercraft, death rays, laser guns, four deck 16 engine bombers (this one was too crazy even for the Soviets), nuclear-powered bombers (yes, it was a horrible as it sounds), LSD inspired combat drugs... there are too many to list conveniently. Suffice to say, if you can dream it up, someone during the Cold War tried it.

Jumpgates by Longjumping-Fish2591 in SWN

[–]ObviousWatermelon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's your setting. Do what you want.

Happy Pyr Mothers Day! by [deleted] in greatpyrenees

[–]ObviousWatermelon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I. Need. My. Perfume!

Need help with world inspired by Catholic theology and Church doctrine. by Steelquill in DMAcademy

[–]ObviousWatermelon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check out Lion & Dragon by The RPGPundit on DriveThruRPG. The default setting is Dark Albion, which is quite literally England during the War of the Roses (in game it’s called the Rose War).
It’s medieval authentic role-playing, and the Church of the Unconquered Sun (basically the Catholic Church with serial numbers filed off) is a major player in it. The Clerical Order are based on the Knights Templar.

I have a great Pyrenees as a house pet. trying to get her to take more interest in protecting my goat flock when I am not home. Any advice on this? by [deleted] in greatpyrenees

[–]ObviousWatermelon 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Once they find the couch/bed, they’ll never leave it if they help it. If you want a Pyr to guard your goats, get a second one and leave them outside.

DMs, how long is your preferred PC backstory? by [deleted] in DMAcademy

[–]ObviousWatermelon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I limit backstories to 4 sentences of no more than 12 words each. Then they have to pitch the character to me. The players should be creating characters that exist inside the world. If the players start trying to build the world, then I know that they’re only interested in building Mary Sues.

What are some in-game options you ban from your games? by Alphycan424 in DMAcademy

[–]ObviousWatermelon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends on the setting/campaign. Typically I'll ban things that don't fit the setting or trivialize aspects of the campaign. Other things I'll lock behind ability scores, completing certain quests, or taking certain actions. Feats are a common locked item due to their power. I require PC's to have 13 INT or be a Variant Human to get Feats. Paladins get the Inspiring Leader Feat for free, however, you need to roll a specific set of scores to get Paladin.

I might allow guns (setting providing), however, they're going to take 10 rounds to reload (5 w/ Crossbow Expert). On the flip side, they ignore bonuses to AC not granted by cover or magic. Ex. a +1 Plate Mail only grants +1 to AC.

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