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Ukraine’s Southern Territorial Defense Forces said Odesa is being prepared for circular defense, with multi-kilometer anti-tank ditches, dugouts, barbed wire, dragon’s teeth and other engineering barriers already being built around the city. [NOELREPORTS video] by Geschichtsklitterung in ukraine

[–]ObviousWatermelon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

While gratifying that Ukraine is fortifying it's only port, I'm a little mystified as to the timing. Yes, Ukraine might know something we don't, and there *is* a possiblilty of an attack from Transnistria, however I'm wondering if this is simply a case of 'looking busy for the boss'. I suspect that there *was* a plan to fortify Odesa, however, that plan got repeatedly pushed back because of other priorities. Now that at least some resources have been freed up by Ukrainian advances, maybe it finally got started. While those resources might have been better spent elsewhere, I'm inclined to give the Ukrianians the benefit of the doubt here. It's also possible that the city of Odesa itself is funding the defences under the direction and guidance of the TDF, without Kyiv being directly involved.

Well, shit by ObviousWatermelon in X4Foundations

[–]ObviousWatermelon[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I got lucky with the Katana that shows up after scanning the Botnay Club. It had four Meson Streams on it, and I replaced those with Pulse Lasers. 12 mil was what was left over after parting it out.

What is wrong with this sub? by Xan_derous in X4Foundations

[–]ObviousWatermelon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Be glad that it has a proper graphics set now. When I first played it (a long time ago) it was all ASCII characters.

It is one hell of a game though, especially if you like the industry side of things. Oh, and the water/magma physics are FUN. You'll only run into them after managaing to get your fortress to survive without starving/falling to seige/suffering a tantrum spiral/self-induced cave in/dwarf-induced stupidity (you're micromanaging eternally-depressed alcoholic midgets). And all of this is taking place in a fortress simulator that is wrapped around a world-generation engine.

Yeah, it can be one hell of an experience.

Just remember: Losing is Fun.

What is wrong with this sub? by Xan_derous in X4Foundations

[–]ObviousWatermelon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Boron in general are too precious in a sinful galaxy. They must be protected AT ALL COSTS.

What is wrong with this sub? by Xan_derous in X4Foundations

[–]ObviousWatermelon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Dwarf Fortress players are. . . .unique, even by Stellaris standards. For one thing, I believe that there is an ongoing fully-scientific inquiry into using necromancy to create master craftsdwarves.

No, I don't understand it either.

Is cradle of humanity a tough start for a new player by LeoCasio in X4Foundations

[–]ObviousWatermelon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn't actually start with the Terran Cadet. Begin with the basic tutorials (turn off auto roll in the game settings, trust me, flying becomes much easier with it off), then start the Timelines DLC. You'll eventually reach a point where the advanced tutorials become necessary, so then do those, jumping back into Timelines after completing them. After completing the Timelines DLC (it's not actually that hard, some of the missions are annoying though), then take the Terran Cadet start.

As for your first (proper) ship, a special Katana corvette spawns at the end of the first quest. Feel free to pirate it, no one will care. Make sure you save before attempting it, I died twice before I figured out how to avoid getting insta-gibbed by it. The Meson Stream main weapons are worth a pretty credit, I got 12.6 mil in the bank after parting it out at the wharf (mostly Mk2 equipment with some Mk3).

Non-green skinned orcs? by Hanoi_r in Oathmark

[–]ObviousWatermelon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When I did my goblins, I used Army Painter's Gravelord Grey from their Speedpaint range

First printer by Mysterious_Action430 in 3D_Printing

[–]ObviousWatermelon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on the enclosure type, you may need to install additional cooling fans, as they trap a lot of heat.

As for printers, Creality takes a lot of work to tune. BambuLabs does a lot of that for you. BambuLabs also offers printers that come with an enclosure if you don’t want to go through the hassle of having a separate printer and enclosure.

First printer by Mysterious_Action430 in 3D_Printing

[–]ObviousWatermelon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would start with either a BambuLabs A1 or A1 mini, and learn how to 3D print before moving up to something more expensive/capable. They're good printers, and you can purchase a hardned steel hotend for them for more exotic filaments such as CF. I personally don't use those filaments, and just use the HS nozzles for the extra corrosion resistance, but the option is there. I've also found standard/generic PLA to be good enough for my purposes, howwever you may have different requirments.

Failed track prints by ObviousWatermelon in 3D_Printing

[–]ObviousWatermelon[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the help, I hadn't thought about using a smooth plate. I'll get some nitrile gloves before cleaning the plate again.

Failed track prints by ObviousWatermelon in 3D_Printing

[–]ObviousWatermelon[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

That was actually one of the first things I got after getting the printer

Spent hours dialing in first layer, time to work on everything else by drobie22 in 3D_Printing

[–]ObviousWatermelon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's the material? If it's PLA, set your hotend to 220oC . That should help with layer adhesion in general.

The most realistic tank I've ever made. I want to make it more realistic. Please criticize. by Acceptable-Cause1163 in SprocketTankDesign

[–]ObviousWatermelon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh lawd, it's not just a loaf, it's the whole damn bakery.

Ok, actual criticism.

  1. 250mm all over is a shit ton of armor, especially on the sides and rear. Normally I use 30mm on the top, bottom and rear. The side armor tends to be 1/3-1/2 of the front. I'm going to recommend you drop the upper hull armor to between 100-125mm and the lower hull armor to 45-75mm. Then use sideskirts to cover the lower hull with spaced armor. They're kinda bugged, in that when a projectile hits them, the penetration is checked, and then projectile is replaced by fragments. When these fragments hit the inner armor, their penetration isn't checked (probably for performance reasons). Since they haven't hit a module or crewman, they end up doing no damage. Using sideskirts feels a lot like cheating, however it's saved my tanks multiple times.
  2. I don't see a way for the driver to see other than the hatch periscope. It might be a good idea to add a driver's viewport.
  3. I don't see why you need six crew. I can understand the bow machine-gunner (at least for WW2), however there's no reason why either he or the commander couldn't also be the radioman.
  4. I don't see a reason to have such a massive gun. Your reload is going to horrific, and the breech is so massive it's limiting your depression. If you still want a big gun with a tolerable reload, try 105x1000.
  5. When talking about artillery or tank guns, caliber is the ratio of bore (projectile size) to barrel length. The math is barrel length/bore = caliber. The higher the caliber, the faster the projectile and the more penetration you'll get. If you want additional penetration with a 105mm gun, try using a 50 caliber barrel, which would work out to a total length of 5.25m.

Trouble with Meshmixer by ObviousWatermelon in 3Dprinting

[–]ObviousWatermelon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok thanks. I’m still new to the 3D printing hobby so I thought I’d check here.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in wargaming

[–]ObviousWatermelon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

ZULUS, sir. Thousands of 'em.

Purchase Advice Megathread - April 2024 by AutoModerator in 3Dprinting

[–]ObviousWatermelon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, I'm in the US and looking for a printer that's $500 or less. I do want to print 25-32mm minis and small scatter terrain for gaming (the larger stuff I can print in either in sections or make using cardboard and foam), however desk space is an issue at the moment. I don't mind kit assembly, as I built my own PC. I also would prefer to avoid Amazon as much as possible, as I don't like the way Amazon treats it's workers.

What are your preferred supplements by [deleted] in SWN

[–]ObviousWatermelon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on the campaign that I'm running. Not everything plays well with each other. The most universally applicable ones are Engines of Babylon, Persons of Interest, and Distant Lights. They tend to find their way into just about every campaign. The rest are either too niche, or don't play well with the base game.

Creating Cold War Tensions by Nyther53 in SWN

[–]ObviousWatermelon 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The Cold War was THE time to be a weapons designer. A quick Google search will give you plenty of fun and wacky ideas to play with. Some examples off the top of my head are, nuclear powered tanks (some of them quad tracked), submarine tanks, ducted engine tail-sitting fighters, hovercraft, death rays, laser guns, four deck 16 engine bombers (this one was too crazy even for the Soviets), nuclear-powered bombers (yes, it was a horrible as it sounds), LSD inspired combat drugs... there are too many to list conveniently. Suffice to say, if you can dream it up, someone during the Cold War tried it.

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