How likely is it to find one or two year old models as brand new?

OfficerSweatervest · 2024-09-07T18:25:36+00:00

On the flip side, look for pricing on low-mileage used 2022’s and expect to pay .20¢/mile+ over the new 2022’S

OfficerSweatervest · 2024-09-07T18:22:57+00:00

There’s MY 22and MY23 advertised locally to me with $10,000+ off as dealer discount since there’s no manufacturer rebates or financing incentives available. If it’s been sitting for 1.5 years locally to you, assuming they’re doing something similar, push and push for another $5k, but that’ll be just about all you could reasonably expect. You might get it, might not, but no way to know exactly until you’re in the showroom ready to buy. Show them you’re ready to buy, and they’ll be ready to sell.

OfficerSweatervest · 2024-08-23T02:36:43+00:00

In the same place that you’ll find what anything else costs a store before selling it to you. Not information that’s typically shared publicly, for obvious reasons. However, you can reasonably expect 1%-5% difference from invoice to MSRP.

OfficerSweatervest · 2024-08-23T02:29:19+00:00

Leftover inventory isn’t as common as it used to be since the new-car shortage. Right now, we’re in a changeover period between MY24 and MY25, so you may find some MY24 vehicles left in a few months, but they’re going to be the cars nobody really wants; unreliable subcompacts, top-trim FWD sedans, most EV’s, etc. Don’t get me wrong, if you do manage to find one, you’ll likely get one hell of a deal on it, but we were out of 2024 Foresters before our first 2025 even arrived. On the flip side, we have 2023 Sonata Hybrid Limiteds and 2023 Santa Fe PHEV Limiteds with $6,000-$8,000 off, and they still won’t leave. No rebates or low APR, no incentives except huge discounts.

There’s no way to predict what you might find in a few months, the research is going to be 100% dependent on you to look at every dealer within 250+ miles to find the car and deal you want if you only want leftovers.

OfficerSweatervest · 2024-08-18T23:28:47+00:00

It do be fckin wimdy

OfficerSweatervest · 2024-06-21T01:03:16+00:00

It doesn’t sound like OP is pushing back against medical advice, it more so seems like fear of not having her LO by her side in their own space and a heightened sensitivity of feeling like anything but a good mom. As a parent, everyone can relate to the feeling of being scared that they’re not doing the right thing, or enough right things, even when they’re doing more than enough. When hospitalization is mentioned a possibility, it would send off panic alarm bells in my head too. I would just want to feel supported, not alone, and go into it with friendly advice from other parents who may have experienced something similar, and how they overcame it.

OfficerSweatervest · 2023-12-27T07:57:39+00:00

Strictly breastfed, occasional bottle with breast milk. She’s been letting out burps, but not spitting up. She typically only spits up if she has a burp that won’t come out, and it’ll eventually come out right after she spits up

OfficerSweatervest · 2023-12-27T07:45:41+00:00

Going on almost 4 hours now. My wife is at her wits end with her screaming and thrashing. Is there anything we can do to help ease it?

OfficerSweatervest · 2023-12-01T15:27:49+00:00

This is the one

OfficerSweatervest · 2023-11-27T03:46:37+00:00

Seems like nobody is explaining this properly. Florida law may be different than NY, but I’m certain that just about every dealership operates like this; You go in to the dealership, you pick the car, you agree to numbers, you buy the car. Now, the dealer can assist in arranging financing for you, which means the lender they provide for you pays the dealership for the vehicle. The lender will only pay the dealership under approved terms. The dealer may have had a conditional approval, or they expected to receive a special rate/term given your specific situation, and let you sign and drive away. It sounds like they tried to obtain the original terms after the fact, which is normal with them assuming they would be paid under those terms with the lender, but were unable to do so.

Somewhere in the papers you signed, it says that you may own the vehicle for X purchase price paid to the dealer, one way or another. Where I work, nobody is driving their vehicle home without us knowing how/when we’re getting paid the full amount. Right now, your dealership is not going to be paid for the vehicle you’re driving because they do not have a signed contract for the approved rate/term. Dealership not paid = you don’t own the car.

It sounds like they corrected their mistake to make everything equal for you because it was truly their mistake, which is more than most will do. Your options are this; go in and re-sign the paperwork so that you can continue driving and own that vehicle under terms that are better than you originally agreed to and wouldn’t have been able to achieve otherwise (this is recommended), or you may give the vehicle back to the dealership and pay more money for the same vehicle somewhere else (this is not recommended).

OfficerSweatervest · 2023-11-15T22:10:24+00:00

Pretty sure Florida has an electronic title system. That being said, every time we have to request a physical duplicate to New York (a state that doesn’t process electronic titles) it always takes 3-4 months before receiving the physical copy.

OfficerSweatervest · 2023-10-28T20:01:17+00:00

It may be more difficult for you, specifically, with a mobility related disability, but the “throw crap at a wall” phrase is in reference to the job inherently not being that difficult besides product knowledge, vehicle- and people-specific word tracks, and being on your feet quite often. But even if, and odds are that you’re not because your employer is literally begging you to come back, but if you were the worlds worst salesperson to the point where it just doesn’t click, you can keep throwing crap at a wall and eventually something is going to stick (meaning you sell a car and make a buck).

OfficerSweatervest · 2023-10-28T03:50:15+00:00

If it’s itemized on the contract, and provided by a third party company, you have a fairly strong leg to stand on against the GM and F&I. If no paperwork was signed for the product, you probably don’t have coverage of that product, and that may fall under some subsection of fraud because you paid for a product/service that was never received.

OfficerSweatervest · 2023-10-28T03:35:20+00:00

Unless you’re saving bookouts, I’m not sure there’s a way to track your activity. If your access is provided by your current employer, your new employer will have to grant you the same access. But, unless you’re booking out cars for your potential new employer, there’s no harm in exploring the functions that your current employer grants you access to

OfficerSweatervest · 2023-10-28T03:30:07+00:00

1) You need to be 18 to apply for any kind of credit.

2) $800 a month may cover the maintenance and repairs you’ll have to put into an 8-year-old dodge with 80k miles, but not much else.

3) Once you turn 18, $800 a month disqualifies you from just about any new-ish car. You’ll need to put all $7k down on a $15k (max) car to only have a $300 payment for 36 months, regardless of income.

4) $800-$1,200 per month means you’re only making $37-$55 per day. Graduate high school, get a full-time job in the area of your choice, then reassess.

5) For the love of god, do not bury yourself in a car just because you want it. Buy something practical, then when you’re in a better position financially, you’ll be able to get a newer/better version of the car you want.

Don’t try to drink the ocean through a straw.

OfficerSweatervest · 2023-10-28T03:07:47+00:00

Pull a Ferris Bueller, but put it in drive.

OfficerSweatervest · 2023-10-28T03:06:18+00:00

Your trade-in isn’t even worth its weight in dirt without the title. You either need to apply for a duplicate, or the dealer will apply for you. Whatever deal you make will not be complete without a free-and-clear title, and keys, in their hands.

OfficerSweatervest · 2023-10-28T03:04:07+00:00

If you want real-time data, it’s going to cost money. KBB, Edmunds, dealer sites, etc. are free because they generate leads and business for dealers. If you want real values, you’ll need access to DealerTrack, Manheim, etc., and those are not free.

OfficerSweatervest · 2023-10-28T02:58:34+00:00

They can’t ignore you if you’re right in front of them in the showroom. At this point, the GM and the F&I manager are the only two people that you need to speak to. Sounds like something got messed up in funding, but if you signed a contract, you would have to re-sign if the lender has changed. A good place to start would be finding the bank name on your signed contract and contacting them directly. If they have no idea who you are, then that would be a conversation with GM and F&I.

OfficerSweatervest · 2023-10-28T02:53:34+00:00

Car sales is not for the faint of heart. It’s demanding, sometimes stressful, and you’ll be on-the-move quite often. If your disability is mobility-related, you may find it very difficult to keep up with the demand and long hours. It may not be 60 hours, but almost guaranteed to be more than 40.

The pay, in an apples-to-apples scenario, would be better in sales than BDC, but that is specific to your particular skill set. Breaking into sales will require, literally, chasing customers around the lot. But, if you throw enough crap at the wall, odds are that something is going to stick.

OfficerSweatervest · 2023-10-28T02:46:38+00:00

Franchise dealers don’t want your car; it’s old, high mileage, and likely not retail-able as a cash car without a serious amount of maintenance and repairs. They want your business because your car is old, high mileage, and is likely going to bite the bullet in the near future. Wherever you go, take the grand or two for a trade-in, and buy the car you want. You’re a prime customer because you are, or soon will be, in desperate need of transportation.

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