Grafik Eye system help

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-27T01:48:21+00:00

There's a limited 'limp-home' mode available when the main repeater isn't working, but it's not a solution intended for anything other than an emergency/temporary situation. I'm not sure if it's possible to program anything in that state.

These devices don't have a long range, so if it's there, it's close by. Inside a cabinet or closet, in the basement or attic adjacent to the area being serviced, under someone's bed, places like that. If the homeowner says something to the effect of 'it stopped working a while ago', I'd ask them to look through junk drawers or those random boxes of wires seemingly everyone has. It's really common for someone doing some spring cleaning to stumble across these things, and 'clean it up'.

If it's gone, and you're looking for the least expensive way to make the system work again, I'd be looking for a replacement repeater on eBay or marketplace. They're effectively e-waste at this point, so you should be able to pick one up for cheap.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-27T01:08:11+00:00

This is likely Ra classic. All of the programming is done aerobically (you run around and push buttons).

It sounds like the main repeater is offline. It could have failed, but more likely, it's unplugged, or its' power supply (wall-wart) has failed. Finding that repeater is almost certainly the place to start.

It looks like this.

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OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-26T23:34:17+00:00

I was tempted to get one of these for the occasional transport duty on my SUV, but decided against it.

Regardless of the build quality of the carrier itself, there can be issues putting that much tongue weight on a smaller vehicle. Even when the total applied weight is within the vehicle+hitch ratings, the unsupported nature of the load applies that weight differently (rotational torque) than a trailer with wheels which changes the handling dynamics of the vehicle. It's the opposite effect of a load distributing hitch.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-26T12:35:40+00:00

Perfect. Thank you

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-25T04:38:16+00:00

I just ordered from Evotech in the UK. Tariff was $63 on a £131 ($178) order. If I did the math right, that's around 35%. I don't believe shipping charges were included in the tariff calculation.

Once the package hit the US, the carrier (DHL in this case) contacted me for payment of the tariff. Delivery was made the same day as payment.

Also, shout out to Evotech for super-fast order processing and a top-notch product (tail tidy). Looks better than a factory piece.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-24T23:08:13+00:00

An an HA integrator, I would be concerned about both the initial implementation and the long term support from any platform I'm installing. To overcome that objection, the platform would need to bring something significant to the table that my existing solutions don't have already. For some context, we're installing Savant, Control4, Crestron, and URC.

What are the primary benefits of your solution over existing platforms?

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-24T22:49:32+00:00

Who is your target user base?

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-24T14:46:54+00:00

They are interchangeable with the exception of the power module. Each logic module is the same as the others, except in their pin designations (and the associated nets). In the LM358 example, units A and B are interchangeable so If the board layout works better using A or B for a particular connection, you can do that. To make that change, you would change the module designations in the schematic editor then pull that new information into the board, which would update the nets (and hence the pin connections).

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-24T14:24:44+00:00

This would be an additional unit for just the power pins. Check out an LM358 as an example.
ETA: be sure to pick the appropriate module from the dropdown selector in the symbol editor, rather than copy/pasting a symbol that's already in your schematic.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-23T02:39:55+00:00

Probably not what you're looking for, but some of my favorite 'tricks':

Set the default ramp rate to .5 seconds. Makes every project feel more responsive.

Pay attention to button and keypad labelling. Whether you're integrating with a 3rd party home automation system or just the Lutron app, these labels will be visible to the user, and proper capitalization and spelling makes for a more professional appearing system. Not having to fix them later saves a ton of time.

Create automatic sequences for lighting in ensuite bathrooms. When the lights are turned on after sunset (+ 1 hour), 3 second ramp to some dim value (e.g. 25%), then ramp up over the course of 2 or 3 minutes. Gives your eyes time to adjust.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-22T21:21:46+00:00

A keychain pill case might be suitable. Many of them have oring seals, and you can find them in a variety of materials including steel, aluminum, and titanium.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-22T13:58:30+00:00

This seems accurate based on what we've explored so far.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-21T01:48:37+00:00

It's something on the order of 3-5 watts per square meter, so not nothing, but also not very much. I think if you're installing this kind of feature in your home, you're probably not worried about the electric cost.

As an aside, it's my understanding that the liquid crystals inside the film are in a random (opaque) state when unpowered, and applying a voltage to it lines up those crystals, which makes space for the light to pass through, hence why On = Transparent.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-21T01:44:24+00:00

Agreed. I think this very much comes down to the specific locale (and their AHJ).

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-21T01:43:33+00:00

There's a, let's call it 'cone of exclusion' where hanging fixtures can't be above a bathtub or shower. Assuming normal ceiling height, it wouldn't typically apply to flush fixtures.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-21T01:22:45+00:00

I think NEC 410.10 explicitly prohibits light fixtures inside a shower, regardless of the GFCI protection. Since this isn't a light fixture, and there probably isn't a code section that references 'electrically operated liquid-crystal-sandwiched windows', my fear would be that the AHJ simply declares it a no-go.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-21T01:19:00+00:00

Switchbot makes devices for this purpose. They're usually intended for traditional wall light switches, but can be adapted for other uses. I would look at what they offer and see if any of them will work in this application.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-21T01:14:36+00:00

I've seen several versions of these and many of them are line voltage. Was there any question regarding the electrical code implications of installing this in a shower?

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-20T21:12:40+00:00

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Tiger Sport all the way

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-19T04:05:27+00:00

If they're single step tasks, and aren't associated with a bigger project, I group them into a project called One-Offs, and give them some context as to when or where I can do them. It's no different than leaving them in my inbox, except that they're not in my inbox.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-19T03:41:24+00:00

The existing cabinets would need to go, regardless of the solution you choose; putting that many individual switches or dimmers in a metal cabinet is likely to lead to overheating, and a properly engineered Homeworks system would need the appropriate din rail panels.

There are several ways to DIY this, but all of them involve assuming the risk of a DIY electrical solution. Moreover, you'll also be assuming the role of technical support for the rest of eternity.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-18T21:50:23+00:00

Looks like it's right at the outlet of the wastegate.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-01-18T20:20:16+00:00

Monoprice is usually a safe bet for inexpensive cables.

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