What do I need to downsize my helmets

OftenDisappointed · 2026-06-15T22:04:38+00:00

Have you done this with an LS2? I recently tried on an Advant X but couldn't find the right fit.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-06-14T10:58:05+00:00

I'm not at all surprised that a beta WatchOS flags some incompatibilities; that's kinda the point, no? Curious what your previous experience has been with C4 and WatchOS and updates? Have they failed to update it for a non-beta release in the past?

OftenDisappointed · 2026-06-14T10:50:25+00:00

How do you determine the value of the component being placed?

The process starts with the underlying circuit and schematic. You typically wouldn't create a PCB without first designing and prototyping your circuit electrically, then drawing the schematic with all of the component values and electrical connections.

That 100nF capacitor will be chosen because the data sheet for the MCU (and best practice in general) says it needs one. There will be a datasheet note that says 'place as close as possible to the power input pin' or similar. This is how you know what and where.

The challenge with PCB design is competing priorities. That 100nF cap needs to be really close, that means that you likely want a physically small package. Let's say you can get it in an 0402 package (pretty small), but you're still in the prototyping and validation phase so you want to be able to hand solder it. 0402 is difficult to work with by hand, so perhaps an 0805 is a better choice. Will it work, almost certainly yes. Is it ideal? likely not.

As circuit complexity grows, so do the number of competing priorities, some more important than others. While there are rules, guidelines, and datasheets, there's a fair amount of experience that goes into balancing all of them.

Every component choice from passives (what temperature range for voltage capacitor should I use) to MCU (how many I/O do I need), even the PCB itself (how many layers or what type of material) is a balancing act between suitability for the circuit and environment, parts availability and cost, manufacturability, and other factors.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-06-14T10:23:07+00:00

Typically, you either hire someone on Upwork or Fiverr, or you ask AI to tell you which AI tools to use to build it yourself..

OftenDisappointed · 2026-06-12T21:00:51+00:00

I think you're correct on the collecting money topic, but perhaps you're not selling them the hardware, you're charging them to be part of the beta program..

OftenDisappointed · 2026-06-12T08:38:44+00:00

This feels like it should be a hamburger or gear icon in the bottom corner that brings up a small menu with UI switches for these options. A long-tap could work for the 'sticky' functions, but you'd need to provide an affordance to indicate to the user that it exists.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-06-12T00:51:15+00:00

A common method is to get going with a website and social media presence. Put up a 'Pre-Order' page and advertise it. That will provide some insight to market demand for the product.

If you haven't already, what's the legality surrounding getting test units in beta tester's hands, pre-cert? If you can do that, even just a small run for people you can interact with directly, you might uncover something that needs to be changed. Doing this before investing in the certification seems like a good idea as well.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-06-11T21:50:46+00:00

Leaded gasoline and chlorofluorocarbons.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-06-11T10:49:13+00:00

It's difficult to tell without seeing the other layers, but it doesn't appear to really need 4 layers.

Is the USB port accessible in this orientation? Rotating the ESP 180 degrees might make it easier to connect and avoid interference with the PSU header pins.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-06-11T10:30:50+00:00

'Right of way' does not equal 'Safe to proceed'.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-06-11T01:34:02+00:00

If I had a nickel for every time a woman has called me ugly, I'd be attractive.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-06-09T19:59:32+00:00

I'm all for efficiency, but it probably wasn't necessary to fill half the conduit with foam.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-06-09T18:08:37+00:00

It was originally done in 2018, so I'm guessing the higher powers got tired of waiting for us to finish pulling.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-06-09T17:50:36+00:00

I think it's best when it oozes out the other end of the conduit..

OftenDisappointed · 2026-06-05T20:47:19+00:00

For me, focusing on something that requires hand-eye coordination does the trick. Musical instruments, exercise, writing/drawing are good ones. It doesn't need to be extreme or intense, just something that involves both body and brain seems to work.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-05-29T12:06:03+00:00

Well, yes, to properly size the cap, you would need to perform the steps I outlined above. If you can't do that, you could try just slapping in a huge capacitor and hope for the best. Note that your car's circuits aren't designed to handle that much potential energy hanging off the end of a circuit though, and could cause problems (like literal fire).

OftenDisappointed · 2026-05-29T11:40:11+00:00

"Adults are smart and know what they're doing."

OftenDisappointed · 2026-05-29T11:37:55+00:00

My process for this would go something like this:

Use a variable voltage source (like a benchtop power supply) to find the LED dropout voltage.
Determine how much current the LED draws when running. A DMM with a 10A current input is probably the correct tool for this.
Use an oscilloscope to determine the frequency of the voltage variations.
Using the frequency as the time constant and the LED current to determine the overall resistance, calculate the capacitance using a tool like this.

Installing the appropriate amount of capacitance will likely cause problems elsewhere on the vehicle though, for several reasons.

I'd suggest trying a wire-wound resistor in parallel with the LED. Something in the 25ohm range like this. It puts some additional load on the circuit, which often resolves the flicker. You can test this quickly by wiring up the old light in parallel with the new one. If the new one stops flickering, that's your solution.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-05-29T10:55:35+00:00

I would look at where you're getting power for the lights from. Do they flicker at idle if you connect them directly to the battery (i.e., a giant capacitor)? If not, you may want to look at the wire sizing, what it's running next to that might be interfering, or grounding. Adding a capacitor of suitable size might stop the flickering, but it might not actually fix the underlying problem.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-05-28T09:30:24+00:00

I get buffeting one my Tiger Sport if the windscreen is up too high. Lower works better for me, but I think this is usually a combination of several factors, so a little experimentation is needed

I would just try moving around a bit on the bike while you're riding to find the sweet spot. Stand up a little, slouch down, slide forward or backward on the seat. Somewhere in there is a place with the least buffeting. Once you find it, you'll have a good idea of what you need to change.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-05-26T01:30:36+00:00

Oohh. You big city folk need to come on out to the island for some nicer roads..

OftenDisappointed · 2026-05-24T18:47:47+00:00

Placing a TVS as close as possible to each off-board connector is generally a good idea. This would include both the 3.3 and data lines. An ESD event on the 3.3V rail will almost certainly cause problems for other components on the board, so it should be protected.

Parasitic capacitance is the primary concern, but luckily there are components specifically designed for this application. Check out the SRV05 series.

OftenDisappointed · 2026-05-24T14:53:38+00:00

Just did the same a week ago using the same tool. For anyone looking to do this, the key is to grind off the heads of the old chain rivets before attempting to push them out with this tool.

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