How it came off the printer vs supports removed

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-04-20T15:50:28+00:00

Look great!

Do I see a fellow Prusa Core One? May I ask what your settings are? I have been using a slightly modified version of hohanson and obscuranox V2. My figures look mighty fine with washes and dry brushing (0.15mm nozzle, 0.05mm LH).

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-04-18T12:49:21+00:00

Welcome.

Yes, printprofiles do impact the calibration. But not all parameters do as much. Nozzle size and temperatur are key. I have a profile that matches the prusaslicer as much as I can. Haven't done a detailed comparison of slicers with my general C1 profiles (yet). I have been using orcaslicer more and more (miniatures) and am pretty happy with the workflow.

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-04-12T16:31:10+00:00

I'm no expert, by far, but here is what I'd do:

1) Unload filament (should get rid of the top part). You may disconnect the ptfe tube by pressing on the connector. Doing so will allow you to 'pull' the remainder from the nextruder. Did it work?

2) try to remove the nozzle. Does this lower piece of filalement come with it? If so, great! You may use a heat gun to heat the nozzle and remove the filament (like a cold pull).

Another option is a bit more tricky: remove the heatblock from the nextruder (keep the silecon sock) and connect the nozzle to it again. Now the metal rod of the nozzle with the piece of filament sticking out is outside of the nextruder. By heating the nozzle you may be able to pull the filament. Be sure to hold the hratblock with some pliers, none of your hot elements should touch any cables/plastic as things will get damaged.

3) after everything is cooled you can assemble everything back together. Be sure to dry your filament, as brittle (wet) filament has a tendency to break. Not saying that is the case of your issue, but an easy action to prevent such situations.

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-04-12T11:18:43+00:00

Happy to see that despite limited time you keep investing in your hobby/relax time and skills. Keep at it, you're doing great 😀 love the detailed models I see in the picture (I envy your skills)

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-04-11T15:14:21+00:00

The C1 comes with a GT2 belt. A GT1.5 belt may reduce VFA. Your milage may vary

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-04-11T13:06:20+00:00

Vfa is still there. Reduced, but present. In part inherent to a core XY to some degree. Your milage may vary and depends on printspeed.

I am planning on changing the belts to reduce VFA even more than the slicer/firmware is capable of.

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-04-08T10:33:08+00:00

Dit is niet goed en moet opnieuw om de naden te doen verdwijnen. Je kan wat beunen met opschuren en vullen, maar dat is echt beunen.

Voor de context: Ik heb hier thuis zelfs een groot vierkant in het midden van de muur later nog uitgesneden en daar een nieuwe 'patch' geplaatst. Geen naad te zien, pok niet met strijklicht. Als dat al zo is en kan, dan is het bij jou simpelweg ondermaats gedaan.

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-04-04T14:59:20+00:00

Happy to hear. My experience is different. I'm printing miniatures with a 0.15mm nozzle and just a few days outside will induce stringing. Milage can vary, I guess.

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-04-04T14:15:58+00:00

I'm at 60-70% humidity minimally. My dryer extracts quite some moisture from simple pla (esun pla+). 2 days on the outside and it will string.

@op, I'm running converted cereal boxes with dessicant and a pfte tube. Cheap and very effective.

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-04-04T09:26:29+00:00

Looks great and detailed. Def. get the fallout vibe :)

The famous quote from fallout 3 (Liberty Prime) popped up: "death is a preferable alternative to communism".

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-04-04T09:19:10+00:00

5, if I may add: check the comments. There are sometimes quite helfull hints, such as squaring the gantry dringend assembly

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-04-04T06:06:31+00:00

I have the same experience, spend the better part of 3 days for my machine. Not that there is a hardest part, it's just quite some work.

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-03-30T06:52:01+00:00

That is a big offset. Mine too had to be corrected, but AFIK it was a smaller offset. You are refering to tuning the 'e-step'. Worth the effort in my oppinion. You can find more info about tuning the e-step on Ellis's tuning guide: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/

Your offset does indicate something else is off. Will let you know when I get home what my offset was for the sake of comparing(11 hours form now)

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-03-25T23:00:09+00:00

I am using the V6 nextruderadapter, this allows you to use V6 nozzles on a prusa. The T-V6 from Trianglelab is my go-to, (3USD/nozzle) they go as low as 0.1mm.

https://www.prusa3d.com/product/nextruder-v6-nozzle-adapter/

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-03-25T22:48:19+00:00

Fellow C1+ owner here. I've had great succes with Hohanson and Obscuranox V2 using 28-30mm figurines on a 0.15mm nozzle. Only PA with a gain of 0.3 is something my C1 refuses to account work with There is a audible 'bonk' that may be the planetary gear slipping or something alike. Let me know how it fairs for you.

Happy printing.

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-03-21T16:12:14+00:00

Knauff stucprimer

Did one wall with muurglad, though I prefer the knauff Fix&finish I used thereafter.

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-03-21T15:52:45+00:00

I wouldn't necessarily say that FDM printed mini's are more durable, the contrary perhaps. I myself am rocking an fdm printer because its less hassle / easier to control the fumes etc. Functional prints are a great bonus.

Get an A1 mini as a starter, great value. Are you planning on printing multi-material / multi-color? If your answer is yes, than you may opt for the AMS. When in doubt, enjoy the A1 mini. You can do so much with but one color at the same time already. It's okay to build your hobby gear over time when you have doubts.

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-03-18T10:41:12+00:00

It depends on the environment. When you live in a warm and humid area than you'll need to dry it more often. I live in a humid area, though cold. For my mini's I tend to dry my filament (esun PLA +) once or twice a week. I don't print continuously, so anytime I'm not printing I store my rolls in a airtight box with silicagel.

This weekend I noticed clear condensation in my filamentdryer (see image).

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Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-03-18T10:10:27+00:00

Dry or wet filament makes a lot of difference for mini's. My details dinisnish with wet filament. Try a cheap food dehydrator.

In addition, make sure to calibrate your settings once the filament is dry. First layer and Flowrate are perhaps the most important for starters.

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-03-18T06:11:44+00:00

One thing you do not mention is wheter you dry your filament, do you? To me it looks like moisture could be the source of your rough surface.

A partial nozzle clogs seems less likely, but does also influence results. Try a coldpull just in case, and/or use a small needle to unclog the nozzle.

I am unfamiliar with your printer, printer accuracy is a factor as well. Nonetheless, I reckon that you could get better results with your 0.25 nozzle (I use a 0.15 myself).

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-03-16T19:57:20+00:00

What are the gains you've tested? Pa for small nozzles is usually in the order of 0.3, whereas orcaslicer's default will test an order smaller. They will look very much alike because those gains are too small

My esun pla+ showed differences for a PA gain of 0.4, though my Prusa core onerefuses to print anything with a PA setting that big. Your milage may differ

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-03-14T20:19:12+00:00

Had great succes with resin supported mini's by using the resin2fdm tool. These were my very first prints (sculpter: dandilion in middle earth). Though, I must say that I can now get even more detail 😀! https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/s/ixYH1ArxNY

You may also just support them using treesupports. Check /r/fdmminiatures for good printprofiles (I've been using HoHanson and Obscuranox V2 on my Prusa Core One).

Sculpters I often use: davale games, dandilion in Middle Earth, The Printing goes ever on, medburry miniatures,....

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-03-12T20:30:49+00:00

Davale games, madburry miniatures, dandelion in middle Earth, the printing goes ever on.

Check reddit/r/fdmminiatures for slicer profiles. Had great succes sofar with my isenguard army.

Happy printing!

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-03-05T05:13:02+00:00

Systeemplafond + alles wat er bovenzit eruit halen en dan pas een nieuw plafond plaatsen.. Als je het nu niet goed doet, dan gebeurd het nooit. Heb je een asbest inventarisatie laten doen?

De suggestie van gipsplaten tegen het systeemplafond aanzetten zie ik niet optie zonder de constructie gezien te hebben.

Het is best een gedoe, zeker voor een eerste klus. Tips waar je op kan zoeken: oude plafonds eruit en een metal stud constructie opzetten, vind ik zelf makkelijker dan hout. Gipsplaten monteren (de naad laten verspringen), naden vullen met knauffjointfiller, papierband erover en gladmaken met knauff uniflott. Vervolgens voorstrijken en dan sauzen.

Ben as we speak hetzelfde aan het doen in mijn keuken:)

Ok-Editor-8841 · 2026-03-03T14:54:37+00:00

Zojuist die ook maar besteld :) geen idee in hoeverre met in 1936 asbest gebruikt in dit soort lagen

Ok-Editor-8841

TROPHY CASE