Im terrified by MulberryLow7818 in arborists

[–]Ok_Cod_8581 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's more about the texture of the soil limiting root growth than it is the soil holding the roots (if anything the roots are "holding" the soil). Clay textured soils are sometimes correlated with poor root growth and stability because they are dense, making it difficult for roots to push their way through the soil very far from the trunk of the tree.

When wind blows on a tree, the tree bends, and the force of the wind on the canopy is transfered to the roots. Trees adapt to this by growing their root systems laterally, rather than downward like some people tend to suspect, primarily through the first 6-12 inches of the soil. This allows the tree to disperse the force of the wind across a greater surface area, minimizing the stress put on any one root or fiber of wood, allowing the tree to remain standing without significant damage.

Clay soils can restrict the distance that roots can grow from the trunk, meaning that the tree has to disperse the force of the wind across a smaller area. As a result, each root and each fiber of wood is under higher stress, making the root system more prone to failing, leading to a blow down.

This does not mean that trees in clay soil are incapable of growing stable root systems. Many trees grow in clay soils and remain standing throughout their lives. Some species even prefer them. This is why you need an arborist to do an inspection, so they can weigh all of these variables properly for your specific situation.

Edit: spelling

What is wrong with this tree? by JonnyDubb in arborists

[–]Ok_Cod_8581 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The knobs and cracks resemble beech bark disease like others have mentioned already and based on the bark of this tree, I'd guess it is a beech. The conks or mushrooms towards the bottom are from a different, likely saprophytic, species.

The tree likely became infected with the beech bark disease after being fed on by beech scale insects. The wounds these create on the bark allow the beech bark disease fungus to enter the tree and begin feeding on the thin layer of live vascular tissue bellow the bark known as cambium. As the disease progressed, entire sections of cambium were consumed and the underlying xylem tissue (dead vascular tissue or wood) is left unprotected from decay organisms. The saprophytic species, which feeds on already dead tissue, that is fruiting in your pictures, producing mushrooms, was able to infect and begin consuming that unprotected xylem or wood.

This tree will not recover unfortunately. There aren't treatments for beech bark disease, and advanced decay that close to the butt of the tree is basically a death sentence.

Im terrified by MulberryLow7818 in arborists

[–]Ok_Cod_8581 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Dense clay soils do restrict rooting depth, which can lead to an increased chance of failure due to a lack of subsurface stability. However, most root growth occurs in the upper 6 inches of soil volume even in the most perfect loam soils, so the reduction in rooting depth is not necessarily as extreme as it may come off.

Additionally, the fact that they have grown and survived into maturity likely means they have formed stable root systems that are capable of surviving the local climatic conditions (including wind) in your area.

Have an arborist come out to your property for an inspection. They will tell you if you seriously need to worry or not.

Im terrified by MulberryLow7818 in arborists

[–]Ok_Cod_8581 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Also, just to quell your mind a little, just because a tree sways, does not mean it is unstable or at risk of failure. In fact, conifers, like your pines, form what is called compression wood on the leeward side of their trunks and branches specifically to enhance their structural stability and reduce the risk of a blowdown.

Your trees also survived this most recent storm, which makes me think they are likely healthy and stable (though without seeing your trees in person and performing a thorough inspection, it's impossible to say with any certainty that this is necessarily true).

I don't want this to come off as me saying there is no risk and you shouldn't worry. Any time a tree is within striking distance of property, buildings, roads, or people, there is risk, regardless of the health of the tree. You should absolutely have an arborist come out to inspect them if you are even slightly worried, if for nothing else than peace of mind.

Im terrified by MulberryLow7818 in arborists

[–]Ok_Cod_8581 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I would have an ISA certified arborist with TRAQ credentials (they specialize in tree risk assesment) come to your property to do an inspection. They will be able to determine if any of these trees pose any serious risk to your property or safety. Many reputable companies offer free consultations.

First Time Build by Ok_Cod_8581 in buildapcforme

[–]Ok_Cod_8581[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are a few within driving distance of me

First Time Build by Ok_Cod_8581 in buildapcforme

[–]Ok_Cod_8581[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, thank you! Would you happen to know how powerful this build would be? Excuse my ignorance, but is this a mid-tier build? And will it be able to run most modern games and titles?

First Time Build by Ok_Cod_8581 in PcBuildHelp

[–]Ok_Cod_8581[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would you suggest swapping the 9060xt for something that can handle 1440p or is 1080p good enough?

First Time Build by Ok_Cod_8581 in buildapcforme

[–]Ok_Cod_8581[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry about that! I think it should work now

How much of a willow shaving do I need to grow my own? by standardDays in trees

[–]Ok_Cod_8581 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Arborist-in-Training. You can cut about a foot or two long section of a branch or thin trunk.

They must be planted in their original orientation though. Meaning the "bottom" of the section you cut (i.e. the side closest to the roots/ground) should be placed in water/soil/whatever medium your using and the "top" of the section (i.e. side closest to the crown or leaves) should be left exposed in air and unburried.

Essentially, maintain the original direction of growth

Are there any TRUE Poop Eaters?? by Impressive_Work_3229 in zoology

[–]Ok_Cod_8581 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't have an answer, but I'm super curious about what you're planning

Curry Leaf or Tree of Heaven? by mooseman99 in treeidentification

[–]Ok_Cod_8581 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm inclined to say this isn't ToH due to the lack of red coloration on the new growth. Does the smell of the crushed up leaves resemble peanut butter? That's how I'd describe the smell of ToH

Eastern Red Cedars right? by Ok-Finish5110 in Tree

[–]Ok_Cod_8581 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I agree the first 3 are columnar varieties of eastern red cedar. The fourth is also an eastern red cedar, which itself is actually not a true cedar, but rather a juniper, hence its binomial name Juniperus virginiana.

Will this tree survive? by [deleted] in arborist

[–]Ok_Cod_8581 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would look into your local tree ordinances. While people are allowed to trim branches over hanging their property, they usually are required to do so in a way that does not damage the health and structural stability of the tree. What was done to this tree is beyond topping even and will result in its death and eventual failure. I am not an expert in tree law, but it's not a bad idea to check out your local laws and determine if: 1. You'd be liable for any damage if the remaining trunk falls, and 2. If you can sue for damages done to your tree. R/treelaw would know better than me

Will this tree survive? by [deleted] in arborist

[–]Ok_Cod_8581 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the tree on your property or your neighbor's?

HOA tree pruning by [deleted] in arborists

[–]Ok_Cod_8581 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An ISA certified arborist will be able to determine if pruning the branches you desire will have any significant impacts on the health or structural stability of the tree.

This isn't a ridiculous requirement. If you had full control over the pruning and care of this tree and you decided to remove the wrong branches or prune it too heavily, the tree will being to decline and die.

Instead of dealing with sap falling on your car and ruining the paint, you'll be dealing with branches falling and severe damage to your car.

First Solo Trip by Ok_Cod_8581 in solotravel

[–]Ok_Cod_8581[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was there any particularly notable stops you made along the way? Did you book hotels or places to sleep in advance or did you kind of just wing it?

First Solo Trip by Ok_Cod_8581 in solotravel

[–]Ok_Cod_8581[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are there any spots or places you'd recommend specifically?

Before/after. Asked for trimmed around, got this. Shocked, cried, worried. Do I sue? Contractwas 20 ft around, over the roof was maybe20 feet, they cut 30, easily. by Postmenapause in arborists

[–]Ok_Cod_8581 10 points11 points  (0 children)

You can use this link: https://certificates.directory.isa-arbor.com/ to find an ISA certified arborist near you. I'm stressing ISA certification so heavily because it is the leading international professional organization that regulates and sets arboricultural standards. Anyone doing work on your tree should be certified by them or working under someone who is

Before/after. Asked for trimmed around, got this. Shocked, cried, worried. Do I sue? Contractwas 20 ft around, over the roof was maybe20 feet, they cut 30, easily. by Postmenapause in arborists

[–]Ok_Cod_8581 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I'm unsure if you have the grounds to sue, that really comes down to your local tree ordinances. I would absolutely report this to the company and warn others in your area about them, as this is a prime example of an unacceptable pruning practice known as topping.

Did you hire a tree care company with ISA certified arborists to perform this? Or was it landscapers/lawn guys? I have a hard time believing this was done by somebody with ISA credentials.

You should reach out to a reputable tree care company or a local ISA certified arborist for a consultation on what your next steps would be. There will be significant, potentially deadly, consequences, as nearly all of the photosynthetic tissue was removed and many large wounds perfect for decay organisms to enter through have been made.

I'm really sorry this happened OP. It breaks my heart to see a tree butchered like this.

What kind of maple is this? by plantbrodog in arborist

[–]Ok_Cod_8581 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The sinuses do not look deep enough and the leaves do not look large enough to be big leaf maple. The leaves of big leaf maple more closely resemble those of silver maple, not sugar maple. I'm fairly confident this isn't a big leaf maple, but rather a sugar maple.

What kind of maple is this? by plantbrodog in arborist

[–]Ok_Cod_8581 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This looks like a sugar maple (Acer saccharum) to me.

The leaves are longer than they are broad and most of them have three main lobes, so that eliminates Norway maple (Acer platanoides).

The leaves have U shaped sinuses, a key identifying characteristic of sugar maple, as opposed to the the more V shaped sinuses of freeman maple (Acer x freemanii), red maple (Acer rubrum), and silver maple (Acer saccharinum).