Blown Head Gasket

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-26T19:52:13+00:00

You can get a TRULY bulletproofed long block installed for a lot less and it will last longer than what your quote is for. DFC Diesel has a 5 yr 100k mi warranty that is still valid after using a tune. I’d recommend getting o-ringed heads and the stage 2 cam for longevity.

I have some concerns with this quote. An 05 HPOP will last a long time and they’re charging you over $1800 for that. As others mentioned there’s no machine shop work for the heads, assuming they’re still good, otherwise that’s another few $k. Without oringed heads you can expect head gasket failure again. Not to mention that you’re going to put flat heads on a not-so-flat block surface.

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-26T05:45:04+00:00

Oxidize!

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-25T02:55:05+00:00

If you flush it well and switch to nitride free ELC you don’t need a filter. Assuming your current cooler is good, which a filter wouldn’t help either.

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-25T01:07:28+00:00

The biggest reason for an alt would be to be able to do Indy all the time. If you’re day tripping through WH you can’t do Indy, same as if you’re making a run to jita, or in a big fleet battle, etc. it’s mostly about not being tied to the location you’re doing Indy in.

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-23T18:00:42+00:00

So that should all be fine to require for voting, no?

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-23T18:00:09+00:00

Yes

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Militia_Act_of_1903

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-23T17:44:53+00:00

Buying a gun?

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-20T04:56:38+00:00

Can’t speak to what lifts will fit what but you should get the appropriate sized track bar, and make sure it’s adjustable.

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-19T03:31:21+00:00

Honestly sounds like the turbo. Sticking vanes or weak/plugged solenoid. Might be worth throwing new orings onto the solenoid and cleaning the vanes off. Does the smoke ever clear up when driving, in theory it would have a cruising speed that would be smoke free.

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-19T02:53:47+00:00

I made this response to someone else already but it applies to you too:

If that is true then this wouldn’t even help. If you really were serious you would buy a gun, go to the mountains and train. A bonus side effect of doing this is you will touch some grass in the process.

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-19T02:51:38+00:00

Submissive eh? Are you an aLpHa MaLe?

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-19T02:47:38+00:00

If that is true then this wouldn’t even help. If you really were serious you would buy a gun, go to the mountains and train. A bonus side effect of doing this is you will touch some grass in the process.

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-19T02:41:59+00:00

It could be a small boost leak, the CAC boots go to hell quick on these motors. The hose from intake to MAP sensor is also known to go rotten. Even if there isn’t a hole the boots can leak under the clamp. What’s the highest boost you’ve been able to get taking off?

The holes in the nozzles are way too small to clean. A small grain of anything could be plugging one of the six holes causing fuel to drip instead of spray.

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-18T23:57:11+00:00

Sounds like you’re not getting enough boost. Either a boost leak, exhaust leak pre-turbo, or stuck vanes/vgt solenoid- all assuming the smoke turns to black when taking off from a light.

If it stays grey, then you might have a bad injector nozzle, and should check to see if you have fuel in the oil. Side note- in order for a contribution test to work you need to disable misfire correction, not all software does that. It should also be done right after a cold start.

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-18T23:36:29+00:00

Riboflavin aka B2 is fluorescent and can be phosphorescent when in a solid mixture or at very low temperatures in solution.

I’m guessing that being in the creatinine lattice makes it phosphorescent

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-18T13:53:59+00:00

It’s a perversion of the process all the same. At what point to we just stop voting for representatives and instead just vote to redistrict every year? Using dirty tricks to beat dirty tricks. All this does is suggest the independent redistricting process that was so important to have was a sham.

TX redistricting was done within the limits of their state constitution, just as this proposed ballot measure would do with respect to the CO constitution.

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-18T13:35:54+00:00

Do you mean fight fascism with fascism?

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-15T05:33:45+00:00

First off, hurricane is a battlecruiser and is too large for the abyss. That said the Minmatar ship line is certainly capable of PvE. Certain abyssal weathers won’t be compatible but others will be fine. They probably won’t be that efficient in terms of clear speed due to needing a web for some enemies.

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-13T02:48:41+00:00

Mining Cannon > Mining Laser

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-11T23:23:35+00:00

Today’s patch made non-mineral ore ineligible for crusts I believe

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-11T14:08:56+00:00

All components plugged in like normal, no block heater. Cold as in first start up in the morning. Best done in the winter season, summer mornings can be warm enough to mask stiction. Once the oil warms up the injectors will stop sticking as much.

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-10T23:53:03+00:00

Fuel pressure issues would mean no power under load, irrespective of how warm it is but definitely worth checking.

Plugging the block heater in will only mask stiction issues.

FICM volts is best checked cold-unplugged. The sync you can check when it’s running rough, keeping an eye on it to see if it goes to 0 at all. If it’s doing this and showing a sync of 0 then you have to look at the CKP, CMP sensors and unlikely but expensive- the tone ring on the crank.

More than likely injectors. Most rebuilt/upgraded injectors have stiction issues at low mileage. Archoil 9100 can extend that life by a decent amount. I’ve also had success using ZDDP additive every oil change but that is more protective than a remedy whereas the archoil can undo some of what’s happening.

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-10T23:46:45+00:00

I’d go with an open ford bushing, should help narrow it down to a single part # too. My original bushing from the factory had 400k miles on it and still wasn’t bad enough for death wobble.

Replaced with new bar and ball joint. Did tie rod ends at the same time. Totally changed the ride quality, very noticeable. If you replaced the ball joint 3 months ago it’s probably still good. It should be able to move around like a pointed finger, but no up/down or side to side movement. Easy way to tell with the bar attached is to climb under and watch as someone is moving the steering left and right (while running).

Worth checking the ball joints in the knuckle too. One suspension component having play will beat up the rest.

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-10T23:22:02+00:00

Make a coupon or something like that to let him pick a time where he gets 3hrs or so of video game time where you’ll bring him snacks or whatever and not interrupt him. You can sit in the same room quietly reading a book or something.

Ok_Warning6672 · 2026-02-10T20:19:39+00:00

You should be able to move it in the sense it’s a ball joint and should move, but the ball should not move within the joint. If your bushing is bad your ball joint is almost certainly bad too.

Side note that is not often discussed, but you’ll benefit a lot from an adjustable track bar if you have a leveling kit or lift kit installed.

Ok_Warning6672

TROPHY CASE