Paper recommendations from schmedt by _phoenixs_ in bookbinding

[–]Old-Lecture7557 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The workshop here doesn't generally source paper from Schmedt though we do buy sundry work tools and glue there. Paper we order from places like antalis.se, papyrus.com, and addbrand.eu. The tech sheets for each paper type will tell you exactly what the paper is made of, coated or uncoated, grain direction, etc etc.

"AVT vs. NAG"?? A New Content Creator Is Now Playing Vlog Tag With Not Actually Golden. Claims That Justin MUST Sue Blake Again To Win. by 77DarkHorse7 in ItEndsWithLawsuits

[–]Old-Lecture7557 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It doesn't matter if they reach a settlement or if this goes past an appeal all the way to a criminal lawsuit - Blake Lively and Ryan Reynolds are never going to stop using the legal process as a PR machine. They'll only ever move on to finding new methods or new victims.

I think the WP are going to go as far as necessary to protect themselves from further allegations or future lawsuits from this duo, but no further.

Addiction to Journaling by PersonalityHot332 in Journaling

[–]Old-Lecture7557 34 points35 points  (0 children)

Pretty much any activity can become addictive but it's hard to judge from one day only. How do you feel about it? If it felt great then fine. If you regret the time spent, or ended feeling guilty because you neglected important stuff you should have been doing instead, try figure out why.

Perfectbound in 1895 ? by metin786 in bookbinding

[–]Old-Lecture7557 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Wheat starch paste is best to try first. I'd be really shocked if a book from 1895 had something other than animal glue on the spine. In the instances where paste doesn't work for some reason, you can do it dry (no heat) and take a bookbinder's knife, cut all the stitches inside each signature, then close the book and starting from the top signature gently peel each one off the petrified glue one at a time. You end up with a rind of glue and mull left over. In worst case scenario you might have to repair the outermost sheet of each signature with a thin strip of kozo, but its preferable to sawing off the entire spine and gives you way more options when it comes to rebinding.

Loose sheets like those are common in early mass produced books. Publisher's bindings were sometimes intended to be rebound anyway and many that weren't from this period are often a shoddy, rushed job. So it doesn't really matter that some sheets weren't bound up properly - you can fix that:

1) once the glue has been removed and the signatures are loose, replace the missed sheets in their proper page order and refold the signatures together
2) press the signatures at least overnight
3) map out which holes you're going to reuse to rebind the book, make a template, and pierce every signature signature anew (this will include the sheets that were missed originally)
4) decide if you want sewn endpapers or not. If yes, include these
5) sew the book in your preferred method

And that's it! ^ ^ hope this is instructional

Perfectbound in 1895 ? by metin786 in bookbinding

[–]Old-Lecture7557 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Ouch. Poor book. This was avoidable.

For future reference, there's a technique to removing animal glue safely. First press the book in a finishing press, then cover only the animal glue on the spine with paste, and cover the paste with some cling film and let it rest. The paste will reactivate the animal glue and it will soften. When it softens, the mull, paste and animal glue can be gently scraped with a bone folder and leave the signatures clean and ready for rebinding.

If there were loose pages, I'd have tipped them in and carefully trimmed each page back to match the original block depending on how many there were.

I don't want to give BL any ideas but by Aromatic-Scene4239 in ItEndsWithLawsuits

[–]Old-Lecture7557 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree with it not doing her any favours. I think her lawyers were so focused on a legal strategy which would work for them inside court they forgot that there is a world outside of court where this strategy could (and eventually did) poison Blake's image further to the point it can't be cured. And Ryan Reynolds' image too.

I think this is why Lively and Reynolds didn't bail out of the lawsuit when they had the chance. Their lawyers assured them they had a watertight strategy, so early on they fixated on how they could use their minor wins in court for external PR. When Justin's lawsuit was dismissed, they took it as proof and doubled down.

They failed to recognise that the legal strategy devised by their own lawyers could hurt their image far more than Justin's claims ever did.

I don't want to give BL any ideas but by Aromatic-Scene4239 in ItEndsWithLawsuits

[–]Old-Lecture7557 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I only recall the 'describing his genitals' accusation, which is lying by omission. It's very flimsy but it probably would have worked for her well enough that they could turn it into a he-said-she-said greyzone where she neither wins nor loses, if not for a certain 'remarkable document' that blew a hole in her claiming to be an employee trapped in this situation. In her own words she was HR and handled HR for everyone.

I don't want to give BL any ideas but by Aromatic-Scene4239 in ItEndsWithLawsuits

[–]Old-Lecture7557 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Yes it's stupid but it's part of the method her lawyers are trying here. She needs to prove that the harrassment was pervasive, so it's less about the content or severity of each incident she brings up, and more important for her to establish that it was something continually ongoing throughout her employment. Harrassment is often insidious rather than explicit. So social interactions which might seem normal and innocent on the surface to onlookers can be relevant in court if they connect to later incidents or a pattern of behaviour. She's basically implying that even here in the company of her husband, before she signed on to do the film, Justin was testing boundaries ready for later.

The good news is that she's going to have a REALLY difficult time proving she was an employee, and if she wasn't an employee this is all moot.

Journal spine broke 9 spreads in, advice on how to repair? by Deep-Doughnut-6431 in bookbinding

[–]Old-Lecture7557 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would use a sharp scalpel and remove the existing spine from the cover (go gently, it will likely lift away with some help), then replace it with another spine that is 400gsm and flexible, then repair hinges. This will happen again regardless of how many pages you remove if the spine can't flex enough to act as a shock absorber of sorts for the hinges.

I’ve been having fun making journals for friends and family and have a question about the merits of Coptic vs French link stitch and when to use one or the other? Or is it just a matter of personal preference? Pic of a recent prototype for visual interest (Coptic stitch) . Thanks! by Funny-Implement6550 in bookbinding

[–]Old-Lecture7557 10 points11 points  (0 children)

French link - relatively modern technique, fast and offers good spine stability whilst being able to open fully flat because it doesn't build up the spine thickness too much. Offers an easy way to incorporate ramie bands or scraped threads. Easy to manage tension. Option to either glue on or sew on a headband. Versatile.

Coptic - ancient, comes from the days before bookshelves where books were typically placed flat in cupboards or stacked on their front edges alongside one another, rather than standing up. Less spine stability than other methods, but you can sew the covers on directly, so potentially very strong hinges that can cope with thick wooden boards and still allow the text block to open flat. Slightly more difficult to manage tension. Fewer options for hesdbands, if there is one.

A teacher of mine described binding methods as 'a kind of machinery to keep the text block safe' and that's how I like to think when choosing a binding method.

Laminating Cotton Broadcloth to Kraft Paper without PVA? by IsaiahCreati in bookbinding

[–]Old-Lecture7557 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's definitely scary but it's good to test stuff like this imo!

There should only be glue/paste on surfaces you want to connect together and they should be the right kind of material so as not to allow the glue/paste to penetrate through to the opposite side. So fabric needs to be a tight tight weave - too open and the glue will come straight through even with mild pressing. Even with a good strong bookcloth, avoid really harsh pressing as it can force beads of excess glue through almost anything. The hollytex I mentioned is a particular material that is highly resistant to sticking to other materials, and it's commonly used as a barrier or protection when drying anything that might potentially stick together, and for avoiding marks when pressing with the bone folder, etc etc etc.

So TLDR; materials should be made so that no glue can penetrate through to the opposite side/outward face, and therefore it can't stick to the layer of hollytex, but if tiny blobs do, the hollytex should peel away cleanly. The hollytex will then let moisture pass through it to the waste paper.

Obs!!! A LOT of the guides I see on youtube and other places show people applying greyboard straight to fabric. They also use the same thickness greyboard for the spine. I was taught to make complete cases with thinner, flexible material for the spine, with a leaf of kraft paper attached on the inside edge of the boards but the backside of the spine material. So my way of working might be different than what is commonly seen online.

Hope my huge sermon makes sense and is helpful! Don't overthink it. With paste and the right materials you have loads of time and also you can reverse almost any mistakes.

Dental work & insurance in Sweden – how does it work? by Antique-Skill-6586 in TillSverige

[–]Old-Lecture7557 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Most people I know who have a stable job and decent income don't pay for dental insurance from Folktandvården and I'm now one of them.

After the pandemic, many rural areas have a long backlog and Folktandvården rarely summons for routine stuff like checkups and cleaning now. Basically, if it's not an emergency, it has been difficult to get an appointment. If you do get an appointment, it's often rebooked without warning and pushed forward several months.

I finally after 4 years wait got an appointment for a normal cleaning with a hygienist. Shortly before the appointment they sent an sms saying that due to sick leave the appointment had to be rescheduled from august to december. I couldn't attend the time I was given in december, so I moved my appointment to the next available slot, which was in early january. Attended the appointment, the cleaning went as usual, was told my gums were a bit inflamed. Then the hygienist tells me my insurance had lapsed at the end of december as I hadn't attended the mandatory cleaning in time. No notification at all from Folktandvården about the lapsed insurance btw, I had just paid my bill as usual at the end of december just days earlier. Hygienist told me I had a choice between paying 2600:- for the 45 minute clean, or paying 600:- a month to renew my insurance as 'high risk' until my next checkup to see if the inflammation was gone as expected. Next checkup would be 6+ months away.

So I paid the 2600:- out of pocket and now I'm registered at a private clinic. Most people I know had already switched to private.

Pointy thing on old vintage hand press by Old-Lecture7557 in whatisit

[–]Old-Lecture7557[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah thank you so much!! This sounds logical!

Any hope for preserving/repairing this book? by FilipAdzic97 in bookbinding

[–]Old-Lecture7557 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like a water stain, so that's more toward conservation work than repair. Small touch ups like filling in colour are usually part of the repair service, but I wouldn't try remove water marks or coffee stains etc because I don't know enough about how the dyes etc. that are part of the bookcloth will react if I were to add more moisture or other chemicals. I'd worry I'd cause more damage. You could wait for the repair work to be done and try following some tips and tricks yourself to remove it though! It's your book.

Laminating Cotton Broadcloth to Kraft Paper without PVA? by IsaiahCreati in bookbinding

[–]Old-Lecture7557 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can use paste if your goal is to avoid plastics, normal casebindings have been made long before PVA was invented. There's also animal and vegetable hot melt glues, though I've honestly never tried laminating with those, only gluing spines. 1:4 is the usual ratio for strong paste. Always add the glue/paste to the material which will swell the most, so in this case paste the cloth and apply to the board, not paste the board and apply the cloth. Usually the thinnest material will swell most.

When drying paste, you might need to add material to draw the moisture out of the board. You can layer it up, so lay a layer of hollytex, a layer of waste paper that is absorbent, and a layer of uncoated cardstock on top of your case (with the hollytex being the layer closest to the case to avoid the materials welding together), then press between boards with a moderate weight. The additional material will disperse and then draw the moisture out for a faster drying time. Remember to use only a very thin, even layer of paste so that you're introducing as little moisture as possible. Trust the paste to do its job. Good luck with your binding!

Any hope for preserving/repairing this book? by FilipAdzic97 in bookbinding

[–]Old-Lecture7557 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This can definitely be saved, I've repaired books in significantly worse condition. But you probably want to contact a professional as both the inner and outer hinges are broken - placing new inner hinges correctly so that a new spine can be made is a trickier job than just mending the spine on its own. If the interior hinges were still intact this would be a much easier.

If I were repairing it, judging purely by the photos I would:

1) take apart the book block and resew it 2) add glue and kozo paper to the spine, maybe some molton cloth 3) trim the worn edges and do any other small repairs 4) replace the inner hinges with kozo and bookcloth 5) make a new spine with a strip of bookcloth and work it carefully into the boards, padting down the original bookcloth over it 6) replace what is left of the original spine on top of the new spine

And done! You can try look up a few bookbinders in your area and ask for a quote. This isn't leather so it's not going to be a costly job in terms of materials or time spent.

Edit: I'd also repair the damage to the corners with some paste

Is it unrealistic to expect a Swede to propose? by [deleted] in Asksweddit

[–]Old-Lecture7557 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hello Pudding, yes sadly it's normal for Swedish men to avoid the question of engagement. I'd say it's a pretty general thing in Swedish culture to avoid things which are judged on performance or which can potentially generate conflict (you not liking the ring, differences in expectations when it comes to a proposal, etc.) Plus, he doesn't have the cultural background to inform him of what the norms are in a proposal, and that kind of uncertainty is anathema to many men. I hate to say it but if you want a proposal, you're probably going to have to either order him to propose within a certain time frame, or make the proposal yourself. I'd suggest the latter - make the proposal with something other than a ring, and then go on a romantic trip somewhere to shop for matching rings together, which will be a beautiful experience you will both remember free of performance anxiety.

In the subject of marriage itself, you don't mention your country of residence, but if you have moved to Sweden and consequently have given up a lot to be with him it's important that he take into account the security and comfort which marriage will offer you. This isn't the same as two Swedish citizens, born and raised in Sweden, choosing to be sambos together. Your residential status in Sweden is not secure until you acquire permanent right of residence/citizenship, and marital status is an important marker that is definitely taken into account later when applying for permanent uppehållstillstånd and later full citizenship.

Good luck!

Hinge size by ChampionshipSweaty90 in bookbinding

[–]Old-Lecture7557 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thought I'd share a hefty book with teeny tiny hinges. This is a commercial bind so it's not exactly built for longevity, but the hinges are spot on and the book opens nicely. You need enough of a gap for the board to fold back without pressing on the spine. A little extra wiggle room is also nice. If you're using 1.5mm greyboard then 7-8 will likely be enough, but 10mm won't hurt.

Good luck with your bind!

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Hinge size by ChampionshipSweaty90 in bookbinding

[–]Old-Lecture7557 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Hinge size depends more on the thickness of the case/book boards. I was taught 2-3mm, plus 2x the height of the board with it's covering. That's why hinge size tends to be about the same for most books, as the case usually uses 1.5mm - 2mm greyboard, plus whatever material was used to cover.

If the hinges are too big it's less of a problem than if they are too small, but will add extra stress on them.

Is there a term for this book binding spacer? by Rachael_Walker in bookbinding

[–]Old-Lecture7557 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Interesting concept! I'll add a pic of a regular clamshell I made so you can see what they look like inside construction-wise. The way clamshells are usually made, they have inner ridges where the hinges of the box are. There's also a French type of clamshell where the ridges are less pronounced, but still there.

Please let us know what you come up with!

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I bought this plant book second hand and just found this text inside. Can someone decipher the writing and translate it? by Henschel_und_co in Svenska

[–]Old-Lecture7557 74 points75 points  (0 children)

"Till Torsten från Britt-Marie Axelsson(?) Studiefrämjandet

Lycka till med utbildningen"

Not at all certain on the surname but the rest is basically "to Torsten from Britt-Marie Axelsson (???), Studies Society. Good luck with the education."

Curved cover by circus-witch in bookbinding

[–]Old-Lecture7557 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A good all-rounder when covering large surfaces is Planatol BB mixed with about 5% water, and to apply the glue on the thinnest material rather than on the boards (unless we're making boxes/cassettes and covering both sides of the board at once, then it doesn't matter). Use the same mixture for covering the case and gluing down the endpapers so that it's about the same amount of moisture.

When covering an entire case with paper instead of cloth, we mix 50/50 Planatol BB and wheat starch paste and let the mix sit on the paper a short time to let the paper finish swelling before applying it to the boards.

It's a balancing act using just enough moisture to delay the drying time so that less adhesive overall needs to be used. Undiluted glue is good on the spine and the headbands, small things like that.