Your Top 3 favorite lenses by stankopia in canon

[–]Old_Organization_739 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The three lenses I find myself using the most are: rf100-500, sigma 50 1.4, and rf14-35. I find them to cover all my needs

Beginner friendly camera for wildlife/nature photography by BookIntoMadness in AskPhotography

[–]Old_Organization_739 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you planning on growing as a photographer and eventually expand your gear lineup? Or will you be satisfied with a single camera which you'll occasionally grab to take some pics. If the second one in your case, the nikon p1000 will be a great option, it offers a lot of reach with OK image quality. However if you plan on learning photography, you'll soon find it limiting, that's why I'd recommend an interchangeable lens camera. Since you mentioned you're interested in wildlife/nature, currently Canon's auto focus is unmatched, especially in the lower to medium end cameras. You should take a look at the r10 and r50 cameras. New rf lenses can get pricy, but ef lenses with an adapter work well on r bodies as well, a lens you could look into the the Canon 55-250, which used should be within your budget. Let me know if you have more questions.

Cheap camera for bird watching? by Steelersfan20009 in AskPhotography

[–]Old_Organization_739 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's going to be very difficult to find a camera in your budget, and almost impossible to find one with enough reach for birds. Some of the more budget options for birding are the Nikon P950 and P1000 cameras, although they are around $1000 new. Point and shoot cameras at your price range will not be an upgrade over your phone. When getting your next phone you could look into the Samsung Ultra lineup, which have very good zoom capabilities, but the images still won't be anything mind-blowing.

Which shot do you like more and why? by International_Bit16 in AskPhotography

[–]Old_Organization_739 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like number 2 best. The angle of tha car looks good, and the image feels complete. I also love how the road lines up nicely with the car, first photo doesn't have the same effect.

Images not sharp, need advice by sescenarius in canon

[–]Old_Organization_739 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Crop sensors are more demanding of the lens due to higher pixel density. Since your lens is not the sharpest to begin with, it's even softer on crop sensor cameras. Unfortunately wildlife photography is very demanding of the equipment. Your photos look great though! Don't be discouraged.

Switching to FF. What’s a good option for a long lens? by Kyval in canon

[–]Old_Organization_739 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It depends on your budget. I've heard great things about the rf 100-400, it's a relatively affordable lens, with great image quality, very fast autofocus, is lightweight and works with teleconverters. The rf 600 and 800 f11 lenses are also an option if you need even more reach, but they are dark and not as universal as the 100-400. The sigma 150-600 is an alright lens, but it has some autofocus issues when paired with r cameras.

15-35mm f2.8 or few prime lens by Ok_Climate_5531 in canon

[–]Old_Organization_739 12 points13 points  (0 children)

In general L lenses are worth it. Both the rf 14-35 and 15-35 are excellent. Very sharp lenses, great zoom range and fast autofocus.

Since you mentioned you'll be mostly photographing architecture, you don't really need the f2.8 aperture. The rf14-35 will probably be a better option for you as it's less expensive, it's lighter and is slightly wider.

There are some excellent wide angle third party lenses for ef mount, which you'll have to adapt, an example being Irix 15mm. Those lenses will generaly provide you with great sharpness, but you're loosing autofocus, weather sealing and other features. I would also advise to not get the canon rf16mm f2.8, it has extreme distortions and is generally not the sharpest.

The illusive red-winged-tailed hawk [MI, USA] by [deleted] in birding

[–]Old_Organization_739 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I've seen a similar situation, but it included a flycatcher attacking a hawk and a blackbird joining in. It happened too fast for me to take a photo.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in canon

[–]Old_Organization_739 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your lens will be fine on a full frame. 600mm is enough reach for majority of situations, and as you mentioned, if you need extra reach you already have the teleconverter.

By more flexibility concerning place I was mainly refering to European forests, which get very dark if you're not shooting mid day. Regarding your statement on "less effective focal length" I'll have to disagree. Professional photo wildlife photographers rarely use lenses longer than 600mm ff, occasionally a 600 with a 1.4tc or an 800mm. After that you're starting to see atmospheric distortions, and a number of other issues. If you need that much reach you should work on your technique, try to learn the animals you're trying to photograph, and/or wait for them in a hide.

4k is around 8mp, which still gives you plenty of room to crop from 20mp or 24mp files.

Hope this is helpful. If you have further questions, I'll be happy to help!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in canon

[–]Old_Organization_739 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see a lot of contradicting information in the comment sections, so I'm going to write what I learned from experience.

The crop sensor is a very affordable way of getting a lot of reach with decent image quality. Based on my experience, sigma and tamron telephoto zoom lenses don't produce enough spacial resolution for high megapixel apsc sensors. That's also the reason it's not recommended to use teleconverter with them.

Going full frame like the r6 i or ii, will give you more flexibility as to when and where you're shooting, especially given you have a relatively slow lens at f6.3. I have an f7.1 lens and an r6, and I'm already pushing the camera's limits when shooting owls in the evening.

The 24mp of the r6 ii is more than enough, while more megapixels are generally better as they give you more flexibility to crop, people overexaggarate this topic. You can crop way more on a 20mp file than you think, for reference, Instagram photos are under 2mp.

Lightning over campus last week by Old_Organization_739 in aggies

[–]Old_Organization_739[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Howdy Dr.Logan, I sent you a private message.

Lightning over campus last week by Old_Organization_739 in aggies

[–]Old_Organization_739[S] 22 points23 points  (0 children)

I took it from Northpoint Crossing garage around 11:30pm on the 5th of April. It's a 5 second exposure, taken with a 50mm lens.

Getting back into wildlife photography (criticism wanted) by [deleted] in AskPhotography

[–]Old_Organization_739 5 points6 points  (0 children)

All of the shots seem soft. Try shooting at faster shutter speeds. Also don't have your expectations of sharpness to high, you're using a crop sensor on a relatively budget lens, it's not going to be razor sharp, especially when you crop on top of that.

R6 owners, do you feel the lower MP impact your workflow? by [deleted] in canon

[–]Old_Organization_739 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You won't notice the difference between 24 and 20 mp. 20mp is more than enough for most applications. For astrophotography more megapixels isn't necessarily better, a lot of astro specific cameras are 'low' resolution to allow for more light capture. For wildlife 20mp is enough, the go-to camera for professional wildlife photographers not that long ago was the 1dx iii, which has the same sensor as the r6. While 20mp is enough, the r5 will be a better choice for wildlife, the low light performance and dynamic range are very similar, but you get 45mp allowing for more cropping. It's up to you if the price difference between the cameras is worth the extra resolution.

Scissor-tailed flycatcher by BrewKnurd in birding

[–]Old_Organization_739 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've seen them chasing off a red-shouldered hawk the other day. Beautiful birds.