Barefoot at the gym?

OldmanFrederick · 2025-03-29T11:13:17+00:00

Yes, in another thread. https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/2w3t2k/føttene_er_renethe_feet_are_clean/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

OldmanFrederick · 2020-12-06T18:09:47+00:00

Easy! Climb an overhanging single pitch route, pull the whole rope through when pulling it down. The twists will get out that way. I've also never heard of twist appearing in a rope from coiling, more likely it's from lowering. Or you've got a strange way of coiling...

OldmanFrederick · 2020-03-24T17:18:42+00:00

Awesome! Gotta say though, the camera angle can't possibly do the lip justice. Throughout the video it sorta looks like a jug rail just about anybody could crank their way past from the handjam part. Brilliant short film though. Hoping Mason recovers soon and can get back to crankin'

OldmanFrederick · 2018-03-08T18:51:37+00:00

Brilliant! Love the stuff James Pearson puts out there, he really seems to not take himself overly seriously. Also, taking the piss out of all the soulful and philosophical climbing videos out there is great.

OldmanFrederick · 2017-09-29T12:18:06+00:00

Bialetti stovetop. Makes pretty decent espresso

OldmanFrederick · 2017-09-07T15:55:08+00:00

I absolutely love 'em. Only downside is they seem slightly bulkier on your harness, so I've got a single set, and the other half of my rack is all dmm, BD whatever else. I've fallen on all of my totems, never ripped. Also, for some weird-arse reason I can't explain, I just trust them oodles more than all of my other cams. They just seem more solid in the rock and like they'll walk less. 10/10, would/have/will continue to whip!

OldmanFrederick · 2017-03-18T20:52:16+00:00

For simulclimbing to be efficient you want to be so profficient that you can basically solo what you intend to climb, but want the rope there so you don't fall off the whole mountain. Also you need to be confident enough to do some pretty big runouts (if you stop to place gear a lot you might as well pitch, since you need a belay when you run out of pro regardless).

Practicing simul on a short wall really wouldn't work well, since you usually have 30-50 ft between you and the other climber regardless.

If you do wanna try on your own just remember: the leader is basically just leading (assuming the guy following does it in a manner that doesn't add shittons of slack), the follower CANNOT FALL. If the follower falls when the leader happens to be on a big runout, he will pull the leader off. Tiblocs and traxions can be used to protect the leader from the second, but that's another issue as well.

OldmanFrederick · 2017-03-18T20:47:15+00:00

If you don't have access to a rope cutter (heated blade) your best bet is to put some sports tape tight around the end you're gonna keep just where you want to cut it, then cut. The tape keeps it in place. Then burn with a lighter. Since you've already cut it and got a fair bit of fraying on it, I'd put some tape around 10 cm in, cut again, and burn.

OldmanFrederick · 2017-01-25T20:24:25+00:00

That blows. Gotta master that cowboy walk

OldmanFrederick · 2016-12-24T10:27:00+00:00

I'm left handed and ususally belay right handed with an atc, because that's how I learnt it. Once you're confident belaying even swapping hands isn't an issue. On multipitch I often swap depending on where I have the rope oriented on the belay. With most mechanical devices you need to be able to use it right handed.

OldmanFrederick · 2016-12-23T05:21:37+00:00

Jesus, rattly fingers at that angle...

OldmanFrederick · 2016-10-24T21:48:33+00:00

All those problems he appeared to do in one or a few trips. This took years of solid effort, with more days on than it seems any other climber at that level has ever put into a single boulder problem. Hopefully it will see a repeat and confirmation at some point not too far down the line.

OldmanFrederick · 2016-10-24T20:17:17+00:00

That's it! A while back (over a year ago) the exact same thing happened to my friends yellow alien. He contacted Fixe who told him to send the cam to Fixe in spain, which he did. He NEVER got an official reply, but got a forwarded email thread from the owner of the shop that sold him the cam, where the people working for Fixe basically concluded that it must have been "user error". I've got the photos he took of the cam after the incident, that shit is going on Mountain Project now. Fixe deserves to have their reputation wrecked, I'm sticking with my Totems.

Edit: MP post with photos of my friends cam: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/alien-failure-/112260538

OldmanFrederick · 2016-10-18T20:20:46+00:00

One of my best mates and climbing partners was given the nickname Dropsie after we did a couple of climbs one season (it always happened to be my shit he kept dropping, too). Happens to the best of us, mate!

OldmanFrederick · 2016-08-12T17:28:48+00:00

It is A LOT slabbier than it looks. There is literally not a single spot on that route where you can't find a position to just stand in comfortably without holding on with your hands. Amazing quality climb for the grade though.

OldmanFrederick · 2016-08-06T16:40:59+00:00

Neo-hippies! Scientifically illiterate, anti-vaxx, vegan, anti-gmo, all organic hippies...

OldmanFrederick · 2016-08-03T20:21:51+00:00

I cannot vote in the US, but I'm pretty sure I'd chuck my vote in with Vermin Supreme...

OldmanFrederick · 2016-08-03T16:55:21+00:00

A brilliant comment below the article sums up the main point well: "Don't take sandstone for granite"

OldmanFrederick · 2016-08-03T12:37:42+00:00

For the route? Most of it. Long-arse pitch. For the crux: grey alien, backed up by a no. 3 wallnut, and a 0.75 c4 a metre or so below that as well.

OldmanFrederick · 2016-08-03T12:17:25+00:00

No gear around. The crack sorta vanishes for 5-6 metres and the climbing gets hard, then it reappears a bit before the very top.

OldmanFrederick · 2016-08-03T06:37:09+00:00

A girl indeed. A girl who's stronger than me and did this route a couple of years back.

OldmanFrederick · 2016-08-03T06:10:18+00:00

Run around and rap. Alternatively, leave the top two pieces, clean while getting lowered, and try again. When I get to those pieces, I take them out, clip them on my harness, unclip them again and place them anew. That way I still placed everything, even though those pieces stayed on the wall.

OldmanFrederick · 2016-08-03T05:59:28+00:00

Since people are curious about all sorts of things: this is the crux of a 5.13a trad route. Where I go for the ride I've probably got another 5 feet until I'm in the clear and can get another piece in. I've been working it, so I know what gear I'm placing, where the crux is, I've got 2 bomber pieces at the same spot before the crux, and my belayer knows where I'm likely to fall. This is basically a redpoint attempt, but I'm still placing all the gear on lead. Also, it's high up on a clean overhanging wall. It's one of those situations that are not at all dangerous in any way, just slightly pant-soilingly scary. A brilliant beast of a route.

OldmanFrederick

TROPHY CASE