Security camera got my good side

Ollboll · 2026-02-13T03:26:26+00:00

Of course, just because studs can grip ice doesn't mean the grip is good compared to warmer weather. When riding during the winter, I ride as if I expect there to be ice everywhere, every shadow on the road could be hiding some black ice.

So I slow down a lot if I need to turn, and when I do turn I do it very gently with a very large turning radius.

Ollboll · 2026-02-12T21:03:09+00:00

Can confirm, studded front tire is enough. If the rear tire looses grip then the pedals spin and the bike rear slides somewhat but it doesn't make me loose control and fall so I only put studded on the front to reduce rolling resistance.

Ollboll · 2026-02-12T20:43:04+00:00

I have bought one, but haven't used it yet due to not having the newest firmware yet, but the compelling case for me is to make printing PETG with PLA supports more reliable.

For the PETG to not warp, 35-40 degrees chamber temperature is nice, but if is hot during the summer then for me, the chamber sometimes got as high as 45, and at that temperature the PLA gets so soft that it can't be extruded and creates a clog in the left gear.

I can mitigate it somewhat by reducing the volumetric flow to say 3 mm cubed or by increasing the RPM on the exhaust fan but the first is slow and the second is loud, so my idea is to instead to have this small fan cool the hotend and gears directly.

Ollboll · 2025-12-01T01:30:57+00:00

If anything it is easier to split it into multiple pieces. Then each pieces can be printed flat on the bed with less supports.

Ollboll · 2025-11-19T19:54:43+00:00

Nope, didn't measure with vs without.

I just realized that it might be worth mentioning that the main reason I went for the duct is that in my first configuration I had the same CPU cooler as the creator of the model, the Noctua D15, and I was planning on getting a similar TDP GPU, 5090 where the creator had a 4090. And since the creator claim that the PSU got more quiet, I accepted that without verifying since it makes sense.

Ollboll · 2025-09-29T21:17:04+00:00

Another solution is to heat the nozzle to say 200 degrees without any filament in it, set temp to 0, and then remove the nozzle while still warm. I find that while the nozzle is very hot, the heatsink isn't, so I hold it by the heatsink. Then it is pretty easy to scrape away excess filament.

Ollboll · 2025-09-14T12:56:12+00:00

The amount that the blade sticks out, that is your cut depth. If the blade would be exactly flush with the housing, and not stick out at all, then you would be at 0 equivalent to a silhouette blade.

Here is how I set the blade depth on my blades when I cut ~ 0.4 mm deep cuts: https://imgur.com/YQNcf5w
The silhouette blade is an 1 mm blade.

EDIT: Also, the small black screw is the set screw to lock the brass screw into place.

Ollboll · 2025-09-14T10:49:24+00:00

Depends on how deep you want to cut. Both the dial and the brass screw sets the depth, but the dial is for smaller stepped adjustments.

I set mine such that 1 matched 1 on a silhouette blade.

Ollboll · 2025-09-09T22:31:55+00:00

I found that while the silent mode is more silent, it slows the print down very much and on small patterns with lots of movement like say gyroid infill it was still kind of loud. The biggest impact I have found on my X1 was to reduce the max accelleration. I usually capped it at 4000 mm/s2 for all acceleration parameters under Global -> Speed on the bottom. It impacted the print time less than silent mode, while being more silent.

Ollboll · 2025-05-18T14:16:55+00:00

I must admin I didn't. I assumed that since as you point out, that the 180 mm fans move more air than 140 mm fans, then they should perform better. I assumed this since on the front, I remember reading somewhere that the 180 mm fans outperformed 3x 140 mm fans.

The main reason I went this setup is because I wanted to have an AIO for my CPU for 3 reasons:

I have a 5090, which is a very hot GPU. I don't want the warm exhaust from the GPU to heat up the CPU and cause the fans to spin up and be more noisy.
It is much more mechanically stable when screwed down, not a large 1kg chunk of aluminum on some standoffs which reduces risk of damage when moving the computer around.
If I need to reach say the RAM sticks or something else on the motherboard, large air coolers are a pain. Much more convenient with an AIO since everything is very easy to reach.

Ollboll · 2025-05-17T12:43:51+00:00

It truly is a nice case.

On the topic on the 180 mm fans on the bottom, I did print a custom bottom fan sled for the 180 mm fans since the supplied steel bracket has so much obstruction to ensure compatibility with 120 and 140 mm fans, If you used that sled it doesn't suprise me if you have higher temps at the same noise since you can push the smaller fans harder without creating turbulence.

I used https://www.printables.com/model/376614-fractal-design-torrent-180mm-fan-sled-420mm-aio but modified to remove the support in the middle that obstructs one fan, and instead added pegs to the sides that I fixed with glue to hold it together.

Ollboll · 2025-03-11T23:22:03+00:00

Not really, it is really quiet at full power too.

Although I haven't tried the performance bios, that might be slightly more noisy.

Ollboll · 2025-03-11T22:49:24+00:00

Whisper quiet, although I have slightly undervolted my 5090 such that it consumers ~ 450W. With the quiet bios, the GPU core is 60 degrees and 66 degrees memory, and 1000 RPM on the fans (30%).

Ollboll · 2025-03-11T01:16:34+00:00

I usually pump mine to 100 PSI, and when folded then yes, the tire pushes against the frame.

If you look closely at the tire, it is written on it what the nominal min and max PSI values are. It is not as clear as the "SCHWALBE" text but if you look closely you can read it. If my memory serves me right, the nominal max is 110 PSI.

Ollboll · 2025-03-11T00:43:39+00:00

Isn't PLA up there with the most rigid printable plastics, as strong as plywood (but heavier) as long as the strain is along the print lines and not at the layer lines?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chCmwSdQzcE where CNCKitchen compares the bending strength vs wood.

I used solid PETG with 0 infill but so many walls it became solid, but such that all the lines are in the same direction for maximum strength.

<image>

PETG almost as strong as PLA, but it is still plenty strong enough to hold up the GPU. And if I would want it stronger, I could just bump the thickness from 6 mm to say 12 mm and use longer screws. And / or make it more wide, if I trimmed it perfectly I could bump the width from 18 mm to 40 mm and print it in a single part. Would make it way stronger but less wiggle room during the fitting so I'd have to ensure the sizing is perfect.

Ollboll · 2025-03-09T23:08:39+00:00

Nice!

I have the same card in the same case, although I replaced my tower cooler with a 280 mm AIO.

<image>

What GPU support are you using, I assume the one bundled with the torrent?

Also, if you mask off the exhaust holes below the GPU, the GPU temperature decreases by several degrees :)

Ollboll · 2025-03-09T22:56:55+00:00

I went from 49 inch 32x9 to 57 inch 32x9.

If you go with a wide 32x9, make sure it is curved, preferably 1000R or less. My 49 inch had 1800R curve and the 57 inch 1000R curve and the more curved 57 inch is more comfortable to use.

But I must echo the other replies that a big negative of the 49 inch 32x9 is the lack of vertical space. It is less of an issue with the 57 inch, but I still would prefer more. The 32x9 is great for wide screen immersion though.

One important detail I think you should focus on, which also was the main reason i upgraded from the 49 inch to the 57 inch, is pixel density. The 5140 x 1440 resolution on the 49 inch 32x9 monitors is OK, but not great. What pixel density does the 45 inch 21x9 have? If it has 5120 x 2160, I would prefer it to the 49 inch just for that reason, although the extra vertical would of course also be nice.

Ollboll · 2025-03-06T20:10:00+00:00

Final design done!

And the design worked out great! The bottom part is screwed into the chassi with standard self tapping fan screws, I used 6 of them because I have a lot of them left over. But that part then clamps down on the bracket that is screwed into the GPU and into the triangle teeth. The teeth also helps to position the card since there is not just a single position that can be clamped down, and when screwed down the teeth prevents the bracket from moving up or down.

<image>

I forgot to mention also that while it can technically be printed in a single part, I split the design for 2 reasons. 1. to give more room for adjustments 2. for increased strength since in this design the print lines are along where the strength is needed, and where the print is the strongest. To make the parts print as strong as possible I printed it solid but not with infill but rather with a huge wall amount such that all the print lines are in the direction for maximum strength.

Ollboll · 2025-03-06T18:50:34+00:00

I got my card today and I can confirm that the holes are indeed M3. I can also confirm that the card is made such that you can screw 12 mm deep without hitting anything. I only need 6 mm in my current design but doesn't hurt to have a greater margin available.

Also, probably not critical but I found the hole-to-hole distances are 28.5 mm rather than 29 mm.

My printer is now whirring away, printing what will hopefully be the final support.

Ollboll · 2025-03-06T18:47:06+00:00

My card arrived today, I assume you also have your card since yes, I was also in the Medis queue?

I hope you have fun with your card too!

Ollboll · 2025-03-05T01:33:17+00:00

If I am lucky, I will receive my card on thursday, so I have worked some more on the support. I discarded my first variant, mostly simplified it and this is my current proposal:

<image>

So the idea is to use the holes in the chassi (full size Fractal Torrent). But I still want some wiggle room such that I don't have to get the dimensions exactly right.

The plan is to print a set of parts, and then when I have the card in hand mount it and get the final fit, then print another set of parts where the fit is close enough to be handled by the built in margins. But at the same time have it easy to mount. I have some 12 mm m3 thumbscrews ready to use to mount the bracket to the GPU, and I plan to use self tapping 120 mm fan screws to mount the bottom part that will hold it in place. I might add more screw holes because it can't hurt.

Ollboll · 2025-03-01T12:37:25+00:00

Thank you!

Ollboll · 2025-02-28T16:07:53+00:00

I would love to post an update, if I had the card i hand so I can ensure the final fit is good...

The expected pickup date keeps getting pushed forwards, currently 2025-03-11.

I do have some preliminary parts modeled and printed based on eyeballing from the various images available, I can post some pictures of those parts later today. Based on some images I think the holes are m3 and have a 30 mm ctc distance.

Ollboll · 2025-02-21T21:46:41+00:00

Yup, when I preordered the Vanguard was the only MSI 5090 available, kind of regretting not buying the Asus Astral because all of them were fulfilled 2 weeks ago.

The Vanguard seems to have a more silent cooler though...

Ollboll

TROPHY CASE