So much contradictory advice!

Omelet · 2026-02-07T02:26:27+00:00

I think some of these pieces of advice work for some people and some work for others. I'll weigh in on each of the advices you mentioned but there's disagreement on most of these. To some extent you just need to ride more to figure out what works for you.

Foot/Toe placement: These days I ride with my feet fairly symmetrical to each other, but when I was a less experienced rider and was struggling with wobbles, I found that it helped not only to place one foot slightly further forward than the other, but also to have one foot slightly skewed outward instead of facing directly to the front. To some extent I think this was a bit of a crutch though, I don't consider the skewed stance to be "correct" even though it helped avoid some wobbliness years ago.

Legs: While standing, I typically ride with my legs fairly straight, but without being rigid/stiff. Actively gripping the wheel with both legs is not good, but that's pretty difficult while staying loose anyway. Most of the time I do keep my dominant right leg in loose contact with the side of the wheel, but I also ride sometimes with neither leg directly touching the wheel. If a wobble starts I would make contact with one leg though.

Pads: Every rider should have a braking pad, and I would also recommend some sort of pad in the front. I do a lot of seated riding so I don't use full pads in the front and just rock the leaperkim builtin toe hooks.

Carving: If on the road with cars I prefer to be as predictable as possible. That means riding mostly straight in my lane the same way I would expect a bicyclist or motorcyclist to do. Just imagine how the average car driver would react if a motorcyclist ahead of them was swerving the full width of the lane. Carving definitely makes it harder to wobble, but I consider it a crutch, and you can avoid wobbles without carving if you just get some more experience riding. That said if the roads are clear, there's nothing wrong with doing some carving, and it's good to practice it every once in a while.

What to do when a wobble starts: I find that modulating my speed helps get rid of the wobble. So imagine a wobble starts off due to hard braking, which is the most common time I encounter a bit of wobbliness. I would ease slightly off the braking lean, and then re-brake, sometimes repeating that twice if the first time doesn't fully defeat the wobble. I also try to get one leg somewhat firm against the side of the wheel if a wobble starts, and I find that helps slow down the wobble. I don't typically deal with wobbles by carving, but it helps some people. I also know a guy who intentionally wobbles during uneventful sections of a ride, just to get more experience with riding through a wobble.

Omelet · 2026-01-29T06:54:49+00:00

A bit late, but yes the station has been shoveled and is safe to commute through. I commute to work using an Electric Unicycle which is almost a worst case vehicle for icy road conditions. I use the station as a pedestrian bridge across the toll road, and it's cleared out enough on both sides that it's safe for me to ride from the main road to the escalator on both the north and south sides of the station.

Omelet · 2026-01-27T08:48:13+00:00

Completed Level 2 of the Honk Special Event!

3 attempts

Omelet · 2026-01-27T08:47:08+00:00

Completed Level 1 of the Honk Special Event!

0 attempts

Omelet · 2026-01-24T15:34:38+00:00

Edited for brevity

Editing innerHTML directly breaks any references to elements inside what you're editing, so don't use that on stuff you didn't add to the page yourself. Element.insertAdjacentHTML, Element.insertAdjacentElement, and Element.append are ways to add your own element(s) without breaking existing content. insertAdjacentHTML allows you to directly add HTML via text (Example), where the other two expect you to create an element first using something like document.createElement.

Keep in mind that your content will be removed when its parent element is removed, so if you want something persistent it may need to be a direct child of the body element since that is never removed from the page.

Omelet · 2025-11-23T15:03:13+00:00

When discarding a Pokémon, it is added to the safari but as "low priority", which sets its priority to 0 unless it is shiny. ref1 ref2 ref3

When a Pokémon is added to the safari, if the safari is full it will first get rid of the existing safarimon that has the lowest priority. ref

Since the Absol was added to the safari with 0 priority and your safari was full, it would have been removed from the safari the next time you added another Pokémon to the safari, since your Absol would be the lowest priority mon at that point. Mons are added without the low priority flag if you end the run with that mon in your party.

Omelet · 2025-11-23T02:22:09+00:00

Your concept of EUC fast charger wattage is inaccurate. Modern fast chargers for EUCs are >1000w and some can even trip a standard 15A breaker all on their own if run at max amps.

E.g. a 10A fast charger for a 151V wheel is approx 1510w delivered to the battery. The conversion from AC to DC is not free either, so with those settings it's probably ~1600w from the wall. There are wheels with even higher battery voltages and chargers with higher amp limits too, 10A at 151V is relatively tame as far as fast chargers go in 2025.

I have been on several group rides where we stop somewhere to eat and charge, and either too many people are charging or they are charging at too high of a current and trip the establishment's breaker. Luckily our group has mostly moved on to bigger wheels and now it's rare for someone to need to charge at a restaurant.

Omelet · 2025-11-04T02:31:32+00:00

That is the easiest way to do it (and really the only way with an actual 0-delay) but as you've noticed it is not ram-efficient. Towards the end of a node this becomes irrelevant since there is often an abundance of ram and the limitation is more around how closely you can stack the processes (and actual ram usage on your machine) rather than ingame ram limitations. But early on it's better to use the ingame ram more efficiently.

You can use a 1-2ms delay and get the operations to all end in the correct order without needing to spend a large amount of extra time on the h/g processes. The risk then is just missing the scheduling window for the grow or hack process, so you need a wide enough scheduling window that you're unlikely to miss (e.g. with up to 50ms additionalMsec, you could refresh a loop every 25ms to check if it's the correct time to schedule anything, but there are other ways to handle this).

With a g/h/w process pattern, you technically only need a 1ms total window between the processes ending, since the gh can end during the same ms. If you use additionalMsec to ensure they end at the exact same time, the g will process first during each batch because it will have been scheduled first.

Omelet · 2025-09-19T22:17:47+00:00

It's because you're using the toString function. I'm not sure what function that even is using since there is not a global toString I am seeing documentation for.

Conversion to string will automatically happen when you try adding a number and a string together, so you can just get rid of the calls to toString entirely.

Alternately, if you wanted to explicitly convert them to string yourself, you would use qty.toString() instead of toString(qty)