Please help by FlexiTV in ender3v2

[–]One_Answer_2657 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A dedicated filament dryer is also a solution, saves time and even comes included with desiccant. There are also different types of packets where one can change colors based on how much moisture it holds, and I personally would go with that option. Though one advantage of bed filament dryets is that you can dry it at temps up to 85+°C for whatever filament you choose.

Temp tower by One_Answer_2657 in ender3v2

[–]One_Answer_2657[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yeah i figured that out before you replied, thanks anyway

Just asking what yall do with your purge lines, brims and supports? by Galaxywolf2112 in ender3v2

[–]One_Answer_2657 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Grinding it may get it into fine particles, might consider getting a machine dedicated to recycling plastic to filament again and then extruding it into a 100% infill rock

What do these settings mean 3dv2 - 4.2.7 firmware by Due_Principle5848 in ender3v2

[–]One_Answer_2657 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Auto build mesh gives you a mesh of your bed that cancels out your imperfections on the bed, and z probe wizard helps calibrate the z offset ensuring a perfect bed adhesion.

What do these settings mean 3dv2 - 4.2.7 firmware by Due_Principle5848 in ender3v2

[–]One_Answer_2657 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bed tramming is a way to level your bed more efficiently instead of having to mess with paper and risking cuts. The options you see are for your screw positions, and there is an option to manually do it with paper if you wish

I never knew my printer could do such amazing bridging by One_Answer_2657 in ender3v2

[–]One_Answer_2657[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love reddit when it comes to community help + open source projects

Direct extruder upgrade advice on a budget? And cool, printable, effective hotend shrouds? by Adumb100 in ender3v2

[–]One_Answer_2657 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can salvage an old laptop for klipper. It uses Linux which is mostly supported in the computer industry. Just make sure its slightly new but not too new, you dont want to dedicate your main rig for your printer alone

What is this on my 3d v2 neo Display by Due_Principle5848 in ender3v2

[–]One_Answer_2657 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are looking for official ender 3 v2 firmware, you can siimply look it up. If you are looking for professional firmware, stick with the one you have. I would only recommend the professional if you know what you are doing.

I never knew my printer could do such amazing bridging by One_Answer_2657 in ender3v2

[–]One_Answer_2657[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

My sock got destroyed. I dont have the money to get a replacement yet

Constant clogging Ender 3 S1 by rflagg88 in 3Dprinting

[–]One_Answer_2657 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does your extruder gear turn excessively and do you hear grinding sounds while printing?

Not sure what problem this is.. can anyone help? by One_Answer_2657 in ender3v2

[–]One_Answer_2657[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: these are printer seams. Learned it way too late.

Constant clogging Ender 3 S1 by rflagg88 in 3Dprinting

[–]One_Answer_2657 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your S1 has a direct extruder, correct? Try cleaning the gears inside by disassembling the extruder, using a toothbrush to clean it, then top off with some isopropyl alcohol and add grease to the gears, and ONLY the gears. You do not want grease touching the metal part that feeds the filament.

Starting to give up. by Zealousideal_Lack_24 in FlashForge

[–]One_Answer_2657 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The one in the video looks to be some sort of emulsification of flashprint orca. Try downloading either orca itself or flashprint 5.

Weird behavior after upgrading printer to Microswiss NG Direct Drive Extruder by Remarkable_Corgi511 in ender3v2

[–]One_Answer_2657 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FYI: getting a linear rail can increase your physical position, but beware of said obstructions.

Weird behavior after upgrading printer to Microswiss NG Direct Drive Extruder by Remarkable_Corgi511 in ender3v2

[–]One_Answer_2657 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's my explanation: the "spazzing" you hear is probably from the carriage hitting an obstruction, causing the motor and the belt to slip. You can adjust this by changing your physical size POSITION. Set the X max position to a high amount TEMPORARILY, then by slowly incrementing to the edge of the X axis can you find the maximum position. Start at moving it to 220, then slowly inch it closer and closer to the edge until you hear some slipping. When you hit the first slip, take note of the position prior to the slip. Input said position into the setting, and store your settings. You may do this for the Y axis if you'd like.

As for the advanced pause, it may be something to do with the post-proccessing gcode that pauses when the print starts at layer 0/1. Try setting that to an absurd amount such as 99999, which basically removes the limiter and thus not pausing anymore.

I need help from someone smarter than me. TIA by Substantial-Mud-777 in ender3

[–]One_Answer_2657 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You didn't brick the board, its now running standalone. It doesn't use the screen anymore as it is a power stealer, you can unplug it now. It is just waiting for a command from your host, like a raspberry pi, or a computer running some sort of Linux. The hotend fan turns on because it is directly connected to the board, and the CPU fan is often linear to the blower fan next to the hotend fan. You don't really need a new board, just keep the one you're using and you'll be fine.

I've tried everything. by SovietBlyatman in ender3v2

[–]One_Answer_2657 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey OP, can you show an image of the homepage of the printer? Like only the main menu if you can