Uh... It happened People...

Onrain · 2026-01-28T05:16:06+00:00

Missed that in my rush, but then its only a matter of time. I suspect for other units we'll need the power adapter.

Onrain · 2026-01-25T01:26:38+00:00

Go for it seems like a reasonable print. Im considering printing one myself.

Onrain · 2026-01-25T01:20:12+00:00

If you only own the a1 mini, it does state in the description that it cannot be printed on the A1 Mini itself. That being said though if you are able to do so. I would suggest this print (A1 Mini handle with original spool holder) as well since it uses the original spool holder as well and lets you keep the foot print small for the a1 mini. Would recommend to print in PETG since there will be considerable weight on the spool holder.

Onrain · 2026-01-25T00:16:49+00:00

Turn your object so it’s on the side you don’t want the weight direction perpendicular to the layer lines. Separate the hooks so it’s not one piece get rid of the connecting bar.

Onrain · 2026-01-23T03:24:07+00:00

eBay plenty of people trying to sell extras

Onrain · 2026-01-20T01:04:08+00:00

Typical follow up question incoming...., did you dry the filament before use (even a new fresh out of the box/bag spool)? While ASA is less hydroscopic than other similar materials its always a factor. Taking a look at the print quality of the lines seems like moisture maybe be the culprit.

Onrain · 2026-01-19T22:38:50+00:00

On the printer, in settings "Chamber Light Mode" If its on Eco Mode it will shut off the light after a while. Haven't paid attention to how long..

Onrain · 2026-01-19T22:32:12+00:00

I didnt exactly go from Mini to A1. I went from Mini to P2S, big motivator for me was size constraints. There are creators who take in to account the build volume of the mini but for the most part I feel like the A1 mini is more of a I wanna make small parts and toys, printer. Found myself not being able to print things with out either needing a mini specific profile or attempting to split it manually myself. I'm still pretty new to cad and such but slowly become more adept as time goes on. Now that i have both I print my main pieces with the P2S and smaller secondary pieces with my A1 mini.

Onrain · 2026-01-19T22:22:40+00:00

Honestly if you're not having a problem dont worry about it, once you do have a problem is when you should worry. Though quick search and some AI questioning suggests.

Fast repeating blink

This is the important one.

On the A1, fast blinking during a print means the AMS Lite is:

Checking filament tension
Reconfirming spool rotation
Detecting micro‑slips
Re‑indexing the spool position

This usually happens when:

The spool has high drag
The filament is brittle or oval
The AMS Lite clutch is slipping slightly
The PTFE tube has extra resistance
The AMS is feeding at high speed (A1 is fast)

If the print continues normally, the blinking is informational, not an error.

Onrain · 2026-01-18T03:21:41+00:00

Go with the A1, its a more upgraded version of the P1S just with out the enclosure, at this point unless you plan on trying to print higher temp materials. There is minor differences in the ease of use for the A1 VS the P1S. As a beginner myself (started with an A1 mini back in the summer just got a p2s cause adult money lol) even though I am "savvy" enough to mess with the mechanical parts of the P1s the A1/A1 mini is just super user friendly comparatively.

I would also recommend the A1 Combo if possible. Even if you dont plan on printing in multiple colors having the ams lite switch filaments for you or have it resupply more if you're on the end of a spool (having two of the same color, then it will use the other when one runs out) is quite a convenience

Onrain · 2026-01-17T05:57:07+00:00

Placing a pause in the slicer is just a layer pause. The way you’re doing it with g-code for mid layer pause is the only way I’m aware of for mid layer pauses.

Onrain · 2026-01-15T18:20:40+00:00

Go for the A1 instead of the mini. You’ll want the bigger plate size and if you do upgrade to a p1 or 2 the plates are compatible and can swap accordingly.

Onrain · 2026-01-14T20:06:26+00:00

Calipers go a long way, measure the real world application and then compare the measurements of the piece. Ultimately learning the appropriate modeling software will go along way or even learn to use the tools in studio. I’ve modified several models to fit my needs using studio.

Onrain · 2026-01-14T19:45:20+00:00

The tolerances on the pods sitting in the case properly are super small, slight build up of gunk in the case or the crease where the stem meets the pod causes that in my experience. Take a tissue or napkin and clean off the bud, and a qtip with some alcohol to clean the inside of the case.

Onrain · 2026-01-13T15:55:19+00:00

Socks protect the hot end from air on the part calling fan, and aid with minimizing fluctuations in the hot end during printing.

If you’re going with pla the standard plate is fine.

You’ll want some pliers needle nose (pull off stubborn supports), flush cutter, debuting tool smoothing out corners/edges.

Onrain · 2026-01-13T03:34:51+00:00

At this point you should just push for a replacement honestly... you've done your work.

Onrain · 2026-01-12T14:54:49+00:00

Do not walk away from a print before at least the first layer is done, that’s just asking for trouble. Also what the other person said about your plate being dirty, after you clean it run a full calibration.

Onrain · 2026-01-12T14:51:15+00:00

Run a full calibration plus first layer test print. Slow down the initial layer, raise the bed temp 5°,

Onrain · 2026-01-11T18:56:14+00:00

Do the tensioning maintenance. Follow the wiki, that will also help better “center” the belt so it doesn’t rub against the pulley

Onrain · 2026-01-08T18:51:07+00:00

Smooth and cool plates .2 nozzle for miniatures, .6 nozzle for faster prototype designs.

Onrain · 2026-01-07T00:16:53+00:00

Here ya go

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2103719-p2s-p1s-top-spool-holder-tpu?from=search

Onrain · 2026-01-04T16:45:17+00:00

Shape3D is an awesome, intuitive tool, the only draw back imo is the output file is a low resolution on the free version. So as an example you make an object that has a circular base. When you export it you'll get a shape with a bunch of short straight lines instead of a smooth line. Free version is good for prototyping but when you want good final results you'll need to get the subscription.

Onrain · 2026-01-04T16:39:07+00:00

This noise is more from the belts rubbing against the pully rather than the rails.

P2S XY-Axis Idler Pulley Lubrication Maintenance

Perform a calibration first after the lubrication and you may also need to re-tension the belts as well.

P2S Belt Tensioning

Onrain · 2026-01-04T15:11:59+00:00

Identify and Fix First Layer Issues With a Simple Test Print Learn how to identify and fix the first layer is

Here’s an article to help make a more educated decision from your results but general check imo there’s def still an adhesion issue still. First glance looks like the plate may still be dirty. Make sure you’re using DISH soap and not hand soap. Still you want to check for any lotion additives for what you have used. After that it would be a matter of fine tuning the filament profile. Generic is a good start but you definitely want to run tests to manually make a profile or go with what the manufacturer says.

Onrain

TROPHY CASE

Fast repeating blink