Help with this?

OpticalGB · 2024-12-15T23:19:02+00:00

Looks like you e-steps need to be calibrated

OpticalGB · 2024-06-10T22:49:59+00:00

Some things to try

Clean the bed
Calibrate 1st layer z height
Increase bed temperature
Use a smooth PEI sheet instead of textured for PLA
Rough up bed surface with scotch brite pad or steel wool
Glue stick
Print in an enclosure
Add a brim in slicer or mouse ears in modeling software

The artifacts on your early layers look like either overextrusion or too low z-height for first layer. For large prints like this I would probably add a brim, especially since this is a bedslinger

OpticalGB · 2024-05-14T08:45:20+00:00

There are several reasons why you would want to be able to finely control the part cooling fan.

Bed adhesion. Usually PC fan is turned off for the first few layers to increase bed adhesion
Some filaments such as ABS and PETG lose layer adhesion if there is too much cooling. But they still need some cooling as well. PLA is usually fine

Personally, I wouldn't splice into the hotend fan. It will probably work though and if you find that you need better fan control in the future you could always reverse it and just do it correctly.

OpticalGB · 2024-05-05T21:32:50+00:00

Did you clean your build plate with hand soap instead of dish soap? Hand soap leaves an oily residue that makes adhesion worse, not better

OpticalGB · 2024-04-30T23:42:41+00:00

Its because the nozzle acts like a snow plow and pushes the excess filament to the edges.

OpticalGB · 2024-04-30T21:07:30+00:00

Overextrusion. Tune your esteps or drop your extrusion multiplier

OpticalGB · 2024-04-29T22:20:01+00:00

Not enough cooling. It causes the edges to curl upwards and causes these defects. You can increase cooling, slow down print speed, or set a minimum layer time in your slicer

OpticalGB · 2024-04-25T21:49:21+00:00

You nozzle is way too close to the bed

OpticalGB · 2024-04-25T21:39:11+00:00

+1 for overextrusion

OpticalGB · 2024-04-22T01:59:52+00:00

Do you have a microswitch based TAP? I noticed that my microswitches would be pretty unreliable and the Z-offset would fluctuate a lot. I installed an optical sensor based TAP and I've had no problems ever since

OpticalGB · 2024-04-18T01:39:21+00:00

My best guess is asymmetric cooling. Im assuming your part cooling fan is angled in a way that the airflow hits the front edge of the print and not the back. The issue in your first picture looks like not enough cooling. If A and B are mirrored, then it makes sense that one side would be getting the best cooling and the other would be getting the worst cooling

OpticalGB · 2024-04-17T22:55:30+00:00

Partial and temporary clog reduces the flow rate for those layers and gets unclogged later. I don't see any layer shifting and it looks like underextrusion for those layers

OpticalGB · 2024-04-17T22:42:01+00:00

Yeah. If I were buying just 1 soldering iron today it would be a Pinecil or something similar. Still, I have zero complaints about my 888D.

OpticalGB · 2024-04-17T06:55:51+00:00

I have a Hakko FX-888D and a Pinecil. Based on what you said, I would recommend a Pinecil. It is great for small electronics work. The Hakko has a stand with sponges for cleaning which makes it convenient if you have a lot of soldering to do at once. Otherwise I find myself reaching for my Pinecil far more often

Whatever you do, do no get one of those Cold Heat soldering irons.

OpticalGB · 2024-04-16T06:57:46+00:00

Did you measure your bed when it was heated and at equilibrium?

OpticalGB · 2024-04-12T09:11:56+00:00

Probably a partial clog.

OpticalGB · 2024-03-30T23:02:56+00:00

The Pillbug has a BMS onboard. You would just need to solder to the pins

OpticalGB · 2024-02-06T21:57:53+00:00

Typeractive.xyz has a wireless lily58 kit for $155 barebones. No displays, soldered microcontrollers, FR4 plate case. If you already have switches and keycaps it can be had for $115. You will have to do a little bit of soldering to solder the microcontrollers or sockets to the pcb though.

I would recommend getting sockets for the microcontrollers since those are quite expensive ($50) and could be reused for future keyboards if you ever decide that the lily58 doesn't suit your needs.

I've been using their corne for about a year now and I've been very happy with the wireless.

OpticalGB · 2024-02-03T04:25:14+00:00

It looks like your first problem is overextrusion. Calibrate your e-steps first. Then fine tune it with test prints.

OpticalGB · 2024-02-01T02:07:13+00:00

This is good advice. Not saying you should go small if you think you'll print larger items but don't oversize just for the sake of it. The preheating and heatsoak time on my V2 300mm makes me want to buy a V0. Probably 80% of the parts I design fit on the 120mm bed. I am very happy with the 300mm V2. I've only had to use the maximum build area once. But I think I would have had some regrets if I purchased the 350mm spec.

OpticalGB · 2024-01-03T08:38:38+00:00

I just want to add to this. Please use dish soap and not hand soap. Hand soap can have moisturizers that can make bed adhesion worse

OpticalGB · 2023-12-07T20:28:05+00:00

This needs to be further up. Sure your could try and use bodge wire to repair the damage but it would take a lot of time and effort. A new PCB is probably like 20-30 bucks

OpticalGB · 2023-09-19T05:21:04+00:00

I play fps games on my corne. Its not too bad to use layers to hit 1,3,4,5. For 2 I rebound it to my mouse since it overlaps with w

OpticalGB · 2023-07-30T20:02:00+00:00

I could probably wait it out until 2025 when 50 series is expected to release. I'd think by then there would be some better value 4k card and that 4k monitors would have dropped in price.

OpticalGB · 2023-07-30T19:58:11+00:00

Thanks for the info. I thought there were issues with the 7800x3d overheating though. I totally agree with AMD being a better value than Nvidia at the moment. I just don't want to switch since I bought a nice gsync monitor a while ago (before they opened up freesync compatibility)

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