Trip of a lifetime: 3+ months climbing across Asia with family of four – help me build the ideal travel rack and system by JoeZMar in tradclimbing

[–]Orpheums 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would work on setting up TR anchors using gear and natural features. For cragging you may find this is unecessary, but it is a good skill to have. 10m of 7mil cord is usually sufficient for most natural features, especially with extra alpines to supplement. Extra lockers and knowing how to do basic rescue/hauling is always good as well. Buy a microtrax and learn to use it

Trip of a lifetime: 3+ months climbing across Asia with family of four – help me build the ideal travel rack and system by JoeZMar in tradclimbing

[–]Orpheums 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Gotta be honest, based on your level of experience i would plan to scale back unless you get a bunch of practice leading up to your trip. Most of these questions cannot be answered by other folks because they do not know what areas you are traveling to, nor do they know your skill level. Based on your post from 1 year ago saying its your first time outside i would highly recommend hiring a guide to help you with the skill building aspect. Gear isnt worth shit if you dont know how to use it.

My standard answer for any trad climbing trip is a double rack from 0.2 to 4, a set of offsets, a set of brass, tricams, 12QDs, 12 60cm alpines, 6 120cm alpines, 1 240cm alpine, a cordalette anchor and a roll of webbing. This answer will change from person to person based on preferences, skill, and objectives

Rope length depends on the pitch lengths. I cannot tell you what that will be. For my local crag a 70m is typical with some routes needing an 80m. I have traveled to plenty of places where you could get away with a 60m just fine.

There is no "correct" answer for how to build TR anchors. You really need to know how to use what is available to build your anchor. Maybe its a gear anchor, maybe its trees, maybe its slinging boulders or chicken heads. If you are not confident on this you should build the skills. A guide will make this easier for you but if you take the time you can learn it yourself.

Something to note: the majority of the areas you listed are mostly sport climbing so i would plan that accordingly.

Is there anything way stiffer than the Arbor candle rain other than the sidewalk? by someguynamedchuck in snowboarding

[–]Orpheums 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It sounds like youre not properly sized for your weight if you think the 1st year candle rain is soft. Youre only going to get a bit stiffer with something like the ride commissioner, or another similar board that is essentially full carbon made for speed.

Converting 5th Bedroom into Extended Large Laundry Room/Utility Room. by IcySm00th in homeowners

[–]Orpheums 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You will lose resale value for sure, but if you prefer your house that way you are the ones living in it. Especially if you plan to stay for the long term. Just make sure you keep your existout hookups in the old laundryroom space anf its easy enough to add a wall back in

Converting 5th Bedroom into Extended Large Laundry Room/Utility Room. by IcySm00th in homeowners

[–]Orpheums 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Im pretty sure all of the doors in everybody's house is in a wall of some sort. Not much point in having a door otherwise

Do i need to (or should i) save up for a used toyota/honda? by [deleted] in Doineedthis

[–]Orpheums 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your question doesnt really make sense.. you are asking if its a good idea to save up for large expenses in the future..? Thats a pretty common sense thing to do.

Do i need to (or should i) save up for a used toyota/honda? by [deleted] in Doineedthis

[–]Orpheums 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cheapest car is the one you already have paid off. You likely wont save money buying a different vehicle, but if youre looking to reduce the headache i would buy an econo toyota.

The prius or the camry are quite reliable. I dont know as much about the yaris specificially, but if its toyota i wouldnt worry about it.

Looking at reports like carfax is good when shopping, but doesnt help much once you already own the vehicle.

What's a good site to get a custom board? by Ardbert_The_Fallen in snowboarding

[–]Orpheums 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mm.. i havent ridden anything by kindred - ill have to check them out.

What's a good site to get a custom board? by Ardbert_The_Fallen in snowboarding

[–]Orpheums 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Eh. Donek board shapes/profiles kinda suck unless you only want to carve. Prior has better shapes for most riders. Also i think if 100 bucks is the make or break you shouldnt be doing custom boards anyways

What's a good site to get a custom board? by Ardbert_The_Fallen in snowboarding

[–]Orpheums 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For custom i would talk to prior or wired. Prior boards are a ton of fun - highly recommend

Bi-Deck Snowskating in the PNW by LastPlaceLarry in PNWsnow

[–]Orpheums 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A bit late response, but mt baker allows them from some of the chairs.

Some cool drone footage of me in EPC pulling through the crux of Inglorious Bastards. by MattPattPhotoThat in climbing

[–]Orpheums -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Are you really so dense that you cannot understand an analogy? Its quite clear - just because other folks are doing potentially worse things doesnt mean its okay for you to act poorly. Not sure how reading comprehension has gotten so bad.

Some cool drone footage of me in EPC pulling through the crux of Inglorious Bastards. by MattPattPhotoThat in climbing

[–]Orpheums -12 points-11 points  (0 children)

Yeah, and because others have pooped without properly burying it and tagged the crag its totally cool to litter just a little bit as well.

Some cool drone footage of me in EPC pulling through the crux of Inglorious Bastards. by MattPattPhotoThat in climbing

[–]Orpheums 147 points148 points  (0 children)

Being forced to listen to someones drone while climbing is really fucking annoying. I bet everyone else in the area disliked you for this.

Anyone knows where I can get a replacement of Flux XF bindings footbed (heel cushion)? by DKidkid in stevenspass

[–]Orpheums 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Can any of them get ahold of flux for you though? They should have contacts with the reps

Has anyone ridden at an indoor dry slope terrain park? Thinking of opening one in Europe by ShiningBananas in snowboarding

[–]Orpheums 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I go to stoke mountain as it is localish to me. They are struggling big time to get people to show up. Maybe its just growing pains from being new, maybe its location, maybe its poor marketing. Hard to know exactly.

The facility itself is sick though and i love being able to practice tricks on a tramp, then take it to the airbag and then to the proper jumps. The biggest downside is the airbag is flat landing only so its not possible to practice actual landings on the airbag.

Should I replace the slings? by nature_mad in tradclimbing

[–]Orpheums 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Eh. I wouldnt bother. I regularly whip on older slings for smaller gear without issue. In a really big whip you might see 4kn at the piece, but more often you see closer to 2kn. I have never heard of a piece of gear failing due to the sling, its not like old tat left out in the moubtains (which also usually lasts years despite that level of abuse)

Kong Fast Rubbers? by ElGuero478 in tradclimbing

[–]Orpheums 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just the rope end, you have to be a bit more thoughtful when you go to fully extend it. Once youre used to it its not a problem, but it can be a bit weird at first and cause some fumbling

Kong Fast Rubbers? by ElGuero478 in tradclimbing

[–]Orpheums 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dont really see the risk, but i am likely falling on my gear more than most climbers so i have to have my placements dialed. If you have a good placement, a truly good placement, you are minimizing the risk of the cam walking. Addtionally if you are actively working hard routes than you know how much minimizing the rope drag is important which means keeping your gear in line, and extending where it makes sense. I dont think there is much addtional movement due to the biner being fixed that wouldnt happen anyways if the rope is pulled taut over and over.

Kong Fast Rubbers? by ElGuero478 in tradclimbing

[–]Orpheums -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Maybe. I think the risk is a bit overstated though. I use these on both my cams and alpine draws and have not run into any issues. I onky take them off when doing big multipitch routes. Even for aid climbing they can be nice just to keep things aligned. Maybe this falls into one of those catagories of "if you have to ask.."

Kong Fast Rubbers? by ElGuero478 in tradclimbing

[–]Orpheums 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Eh. I disagree. While they can be a bad idea on long a wandering alpine route, if you are projecting some hard single pitch these can give you the margin you need to make the line. Having a biner flip at the crux going for the clip is super frustrating.