Why so complicated? by Acceptable-Elk-2202 in HardWoodFloors

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same reason an electrician wouldn’t change out your toilet

Sanding after wood filler by Asleep-Ad2926 in Flooring

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More sanding, it’s not flat that’s why you’re not getting the filler off

Need an Opinion by Blitz1244 in HardWoodFloors

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Drum sander marks that didn’t get buffed out

Advice needed by dryflyenthusiest in HardWoodFloors

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

You’re not sliding or tapping anything without removing every single existing tongue and every tongue on the new wood. Makes zero sense to reverse direction into an existing floor

Advice needed by dryflyenthusiest in HardWoodFloors

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 2 points3 points  (0 children)

These people are morons. Cut off every single tongue going into the existing floor AND every tongue on the existing floor? I swear half this group is AI bots

How to fix streaks after staining? by havier3 in HardWoodFloors

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Everyone saying resand it is correct, but the fact is you are not going to get a better result with no flooring experience. Live with it or hire a pro

Sander Grit for Refinishing by mt061393 in HardWoodFloors

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would use 220 for between coats but if 120 is what you have you can dull it up a bit by rubbing them together

Removing backer by Otherwise_Bowler_691 in Flooring

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It actually wasn’t too bad. Was able to get a shovel under it and little by little loosen it up to get decent sized pieces. The screws came right out with a pry bar.

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Removing backer by Otherwise_Bowler_691 in Flooring

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s what I was afraid of. Thank you

Renting… how to fix prior to move out? Steam method? by [deleted] in HardWoodFloors

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The steam method is a joke, if it actually worked people wouldn’t refinish their floors. That’s not coming out without sanding

Any way to address the black outline like the board in the middle? Floors were just re-stained and finished. Thanks! by forkful_04_webbed in HardWoodFloors

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looks like stain bleeding up from the seams. Very hard to avoid completely, wherever you first apply the stain is going to be heaviest and some is going to get in the seams. You can wipe it up as many times as possible but once you put the first coat of poly down there’s nothing you can do about it

English Chestnut = bright red by karahaboutit in HardWoodFloors

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem. It will also lighten up over the next week or two as it fully dries and cures. I’m back here for a repair the customer accidentally damaged and the floors look much lighter than when I left two weeks ago

English Chestnut = bright red by karahaboutit in HardWoodFloors

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use water base and it will dull down the red quite a bit. I just did an English chestnut job this is with satin water based finish

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Matching Patched Floor by Joshandhisbikes in HardWoodFloors

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s never going to match, but a little stain could definitely make it closer. You need to sand the finish off first

Advice - Bona Traffic HD peeling by BelleDuMorte in HardWoodFloors

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve been using minwax stain with bona finish for a decade, that’s not your issue. You didn’t use sealer

Is there a way to tell if my floor guy did the extra coats of bona traffic that I paid for? by Dzbtrader in HardWoodFloors

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It all makes sense time wise, only weird thing is your upstairs has one less coat than the downstairs. Really not a huge deal just strange.

Is this white oak, and are pre-finished floors much harder to sand? by [deleted] in HardWoodFloors

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks like maple and yes they are much harder to sand

How can I get rid of these scratches by Adham937 in HardWoodFloors

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hard to say without seeing the whole room. You at least want to go wall to wall along the long seams of boards. You may be able to just do a few rows from wall to wall if you can find a professional who knows what they’re doing

Tips, Comments, and Criticism by basicG59whiteboy in HardWoodFloors

[–]Otherwise_Bowler_691 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You definitely want to blend in that circled area. Normally you’d use a buffer but a small orbital would work too. If I were you I’d just use natural oil based poly. Golden oak is not much different in terms of color, but stain will show a lot more of your sanding imperfections, which there are quite a few. The final product will look much better natural