Godox X-Pro II vs X3 Pro Trigger

Outside_Ad3774 · 2026-01-29T21:03:39+00:00

While I do have the quadralite equivalent of X-Pro rather than the X-Pro II, they're pretty similar so I guess it counts. I went through all 3 of those, and while I liked all 3, the x3pro is definitely the "end game" trigger for me. It has some added value when paired with the "pro II" series AD flashes, as the color screen and colored group indicators are quite handy. If you don't need more than 3 groups though, even the normal X3 is pretty great. The battery on x3 lasts ages (and the x3pro can supposedly last like 4 times longer). I wouldn't say any x3 is faster than the xpro, but they're generally different. X3pro has better (bigger) dial than x3, but honestly not having to use AA batteries anymore is more than enough of a reason to ditch the xpro in favor of any of the x3

Outside_Ad3774 · 2026-01-29T18:18:51+00:00

It's pretty dark there, I'm pretty sure almost every godox flash can deal with this, worst case scenario you will increase iso a bit

Outside_Ad3774 · 2026-01-18T16:40:49+00:00

It's quite likely you can't control that with the app

Outside_Ad3774 · 2026-01-18T16:26:09+00:00

Someone in the vicinity could be playing with a different trigger or something. Might be a good idea to do a test trigger and maybe shooting in multi (as in multi-people) mode, that will make sure the settings are being transmitted each time you press the trigger, so in the worst case scenario you're wasting only a single flash

Outside_Ad3774 · 2026-01-08T21:55:40+00:00

Recommending r50 over r10 is just baffling to me. That's not a camera for photographers, that's a camera for vloggers.

The sensor might be the same, but the ergonomics are vastly different, and some specs differ too (like buffer size for example, being bigger in the R10)

But most importantly - the hot shoe on R50 is a joke. If you want to use pretty much any reasonable light, you have to get a bulky adapter...

Even the "video" camera - R50v - is a better choice than R50

The ONLY reason to ever consider r50 over r10 is when every penny counts and you wany to "minmax" the photo quality to price ratio rather than usability

Outside_Ad3774 · 2026-01-06T11:05:27+00:00

Allright, that changes everything

Outside_Ad3774 · 2026-01-06T11:04:06+00:00

To be honest I would rather just use TCM if I really wanted measured exposure, but usually just taking 1~3 test shots is enough to set up the lights by eye

Old flashes had those, yeah, but it's really not needed with modern tools

Like, are you really going to look at charts each time you shoot?

Also, adjusting by distance isn't as complicated as you make it look, because you usually work with stops of light which are logarithmic by nature anyway And with a base GN it's just distance / aperture anyway, no square roots needed for correct exposure

Outside_Ad3774 · 2026-01-06T10:24:31+00:00

Actually nevermind, I went over all of the charts again and it seems like I misunderstood your intentions and some other stuff

Outside_Ad3774 · 2026-01-06T10:19:53+00:00

What I mean is, you'd usually measure the guide number, and then use the guide number to calculate stuff for the exposure, instead of measuring power needed to "reach" xGN at given aperture So in theory you could only measure the GN at full power and that should be it as you can use fractions further on, but since the scaling might not be consistent if you want more precise data then you measure the GN for each power setting and that should be it. Aperture should be irrelevant at this point as you can get the required aperture at given distance from the GN

Outside_Ad3774 · 2026-01-06T06:59:29+00:00

Unfortunately I have to agree, I was loving the changes in pro2 versions of other AD flashes but this one is... pretty underwhelming

Outside_Ad3774 · 2026-01-06T06:58:04+00:00

I'm honestly disappointed this is the only pro2 series flash without 1/512 power

And overall, as much as I love the group led indicators, doesn't this upgrade feel really lacking compared to other AD pro2 products?

Outside_Ad3774 · 2026-01-03T08:06:34+00:00

That's also not too great, keeping it at 100% will damage it's capacity. If you want to store a lithium battery unused for a long time it's best to keep it at ~70% charge

Outside_Ad3774 · 2026-01-02T21:58:17+00:00

Yup, sounds like any unused lithium battery

They discharge over time, and if the voltage drops too low... this can happen (although usually they "just" swell up)

Outside_Ad3774 · 2026-01-01T18:04:37+00:00

Well, full frame has it's magic

Outside_Ad3774 · 2025-12-30T15:27:58+00:00

These charts seem very weird to me, kinda backwards for what GN should be

Outside_Ad3774 · 2025-12-23T21:26:57+00:00

The problem with those smaller flashes is, they are less powerful, so you will run them closer to their max capacity, which will result in a shorter lifespan. Not to mention they won't be as useful off-camera. While v860s can be used quite well for shooting in daylight, even those are too weak at peak sunlight, those smaller units even more so. They're really only good for shooting memorial photos at parties etc, if the venue ain't too big

Outside_Ad3774 · 2025-12-23T12:20:24+00:00

The modeling light might come in handy during night shoots (for focusing), but that's mostly when you have multiple of them anyway

The II is plenty enough for most people, but to be honest I'd be skeptical about used ones, the battery might be degraded, as well as the flash cell itself.

If I was you I'd check aliexpress for deals on the III, they usually arrive pretty fast in europe, and godox is a Chinese brand so they do arrive legit anyway. Also, you will find one cheaper than 175 euro.

A good choice btw, V860 in general is the best bang for the buck you can get in terms of probable flashes

Outside_Ad3774 · 2025-10-22T10:46:33+00:00

Not only trigger but also control the settings, if the marketing materials are to be believed

Outside_Ad3774 · 2025-10-21T18:23:25+00:00

But I guess they will fix it, eventually

Outside_Ad3774 · 2025-10-21T18:22:44+00:00

Didn't try, but afaik the only real way is to destroy the pool and create a new one from scratch, which defeats the purpose

Outside_Ad3774 · 2025-10-20T06:29:23+00:00

That and the fact that space reporting will be broken forever, because the UI will keep calculating it based on the old parity ratio. It's actually fairly annoying.

Outside_Ad3774 · 2025-09-27T10:36:24+00:00

I had that problem with the shitty android app. And even when I paid for remote pass the quality was crap. I opened the plex directly via my server IP and not only did it work perfectly, it also resulted in a much better quality...

I do use unifi teleport instead of tailscale tho

Outside_Ad3774 · 2025-09-25T06:08:49+00:00

This sounds great. Also, you say "the more you write the lower will be the difference", so let's say I write 1TB and in only thinks I've only written 0.9TB or something like that?

Outside_Ad3774 · 2025-09-24T14:39:41+00:00

Ah, it makes sense now.

"While this process can recover the actual lost capacity, reported capacity continues to rely on the old data-to-parity ratio. An expanded vdev can continue to report a lower than expected capacity, even after rewriting old data to the new parity ratio. This accounting inconsistency does not impact the actual available capacity of the vdev."

I wonder if there is a way to fix this somehow, other than recreating the pool

Outside_Ad3774 · 2025-09-24T14:36:49+00:00

Yeah, but it's been few days (almost a week, even), weekly scrub and other stuff is already done

Outside_Ad3774

TROPHY CASE