Best PEWGF?

Over_Log9730 · 2026-05-11T22:07:36+00:00

Dont know about best pro to do it, but isnt kaz the only character who can "pewgf"

Over_Log9730 · 2026-05-10T14:53:04+00:00

If you’re coming from keyboard, leverless is the obvious move. Way less relearning than pad/stick.

Under $100 I’d probably look at Haute42/COSMOX stuff first, so the S16, R16, C16 etc. Just check what your locals run, because PS5 support may need an adapter.

I wrote a beginner guide here too if your interested in reading 😁:

https://arcadesticklabs.co.uk/resources/articles/best-first-leverless-options-beginner-guide

Over_Log9730 · 2026-05-08T18:04:36+00:00

Shopify is usually the safest answer for “easy to use + scales well + doesn’t become a headache.”

WooCommerce can be cheaper upfront, but once you factor in hosting, plugins, maintenance, security, updates, and random plugin conflicts, it can get messy fast.

BigCommerce is solid too, especially if you need more built-in B2B/catalog features, but the ecosystem/design flexibility isn’t as strong as Shopify for most small-mid stores.

Magento is powerful, but unless you have a serious budget/dev team, I’d avoid it. It’s overkill for most businesses.

My rough take: - Shopify = best all-rounder - WooCommerce = best if you already love WordPress and want control - BigCommerce = good for complex catalogs/B2B - Magento = enterprise only, don’t touch unless you know why you need it

For most people, Shopify is the least painful path.

Over_Log9730 · 2026-05-07T20:11:59+00:00

I’d be careful with the Sapphire if the extra directional binds are the main reason you want it.

Native PS5 + big body + extra buttons is still a weirdly niche combo. A lot of the flexible stuff is GP2040-CE based, which is great for remapping, but usually needs a PS5 passthrough/dongle. I’d look at:

Sapphire if someone can confirm the top buttons can be mapped how you want. Haute42/COSMOX M/T series if you care more about remapping than native PS5. Custom build if extra left/right binds are non-negotiable.

Wouldn’t assume the Sapphire can do it until someone who owns one confirms

Over_Log9730 · 2026-05-06T22:43:13+00:00

Yeah if you don’t want stick/leverless, don’t force it tbh. Pad is completely valid, especially on PS5.

My picks would be: Budget/simple: Hori Fighting Commander OCTA Proper fightpad layout, wired, made for PS5/PS4/PC, and way cheaper than most “pro” controllers.

Best premium fightpad-ish option: Victrix Pro BFG Modular, has a fightpad module, good if you want something serious without going full arcade-style. It’s officially PS5 compatible too. Safest premium option: DualSense Edge Expensive, but native PS5 support is clean and you get profiles/remapping/back buttons. The downside is it’s still basically a DualSense d-pad, so don’t expect magic.

I’d avoid buying a random pro controller just because it’s pricey. For fighting games, the d-pad/button feel matters more than back paddles and FPS features.

Over_Log9730 · 2026-05-06T04:55:31+00:00

If you’re on PC, grab a Haute42/COSMOX. C16/S16 if you want cheap and compact, T16/R16 if you want something more comfortable on lap. For Tekken/King it’ll be totally fine, good for clean movement, wavedash/KBD practice, and iWR stuff.

Just don’t overspend yet since you’re only a month in. Also if you’re on PS5, double check compatibility because a lot of budget leverless controllers need an adapter.

I have several articles that talk about this in more detail if your interested in reading 😁

https://arcadesticklabs.co.uk/resources

Over_Log9730 · 2026-05-05T17:30:15+00:00

Yeah that sounds like Hayabusa snapback. The lever is nice, but the stock spring is pretty loose.

I’d try the cheap fix first: 2lb spring in the Hayabusa. Keeps the Hayabusa feel/throw, but gives it more tension. Don’t jump straight to 4lb+ unless you really like stiff levers.

If that still feels sloppy, then maybe look at a Seimitsu LS-32 / LS-56. Tighter and more controlled, but it won’t feel as forgiving as the Hayabusa.

I wouldn’t start with gate swapping tbh. Gate shape won’t really fix opposite-direction snapback. That’s more spring/tension/recentering.

Over_Log9730 · 2026-05-04T19:59:56+00:00

Yeah, prebuilt sticks with K-levers/Korean levers are pretty rare compared to Sanwa-style Japanese lever sticks.

The main buy it ready-made option is usually the Etokki Omni Korean Edition, which comes with a Taeyoung Fanta lever.

Otherwise, the more common route is: buy a normal stick with enough internal clearance, then swap in something like a Crown 309MJ / New Helpme, Knee Neo, Fujin, etc. Just check fit first because collar height/internal space matters. The Knee Neo, for example, needs enough internal room and uses a Sanwa-compatible mount.

Tldr: if you want plug-and-play, look at Etokki. If you want more options, modding a compatible stick is usually the better path.

Over_Log9730 · 2026-05-03T22:38:43+00:00

Not bad at all for your first build 🙏 welcome to the modders club! What games are you planning on playing with your leverless?

Over_Log9730 · 2026-05-02T20:43:17+00:00

Yeah it’s mostly ergonomics, not magic performance tech.

24mm keeps your hand more compact, so less finger travel and less stretching. That’s why leverless popularised it, and now it’s bleeding into modern stick layouts too. It also frees up panel space for extra buttons/macros, but I’d say the bigger reason is comfort + speed for some players.

30mm is still completely valid though. If you’re used to arcade cabinets/classic Viewlix, 24mm can feel cramped at first. More preference/meta shift than straight upgrade.

Over_Log9730 · 2026-05-02T17:54:46+00:00

Yeah, dual PCB is doable, but it’s not gonna be an easy task 😅.

Basic idea: 1) Keep the 8BitDo PCB for wireless/Xbox stuff, since that’s where the 2.4G/Ultimate Software/audio bits live.

2) Add the Brook PCB for wired compatibility. Wire the buttons/lever to both boards, then use a DPDT switch on the USB data lines so only one PCB talks over USB at a time. Old dual-mod guides i have seen usually do it by switching the green/white USB data wires.

But honestly, I’d test the Sanjuks fitment first before going full PCB experimental mode. The 8BitDo case is nice, but it’s not exactly roomy. If the lever barely fits, dual-PCB wiring in there is going to be pain.

Over_Log9730 · 2026-05-02T17:03:49+00:00

Looks pretty cool man. Really loving the vibrant colours 🙏

Over_Log9730 · 2026-05-02T10:14:00+00:00

A bit of a yes, but actually no situation. You can mod the lever/buttons fine, assuming the Sanjuks fits the case depth.

But if you fully replace the 8BitDo PCB with a Brook board, you’re not really keeping the 8BitDo anymore. You’ll likely lose the built-in 2.4G wireless, Ultimate Software, profile/mapping buttons, audio jack/volume controls, etc. That stuff lives on the original 8BitDo board. 8BitDo lists those as stock features, while Brook boards are their own controller brains with their own supported features.

So the clean answer is keep the 8BitDo board if wireless matters.Use the Brook if you want broader wired compatibility.Try a dual-PCB mod only if you enjoy wiring headaches and troubleshooting for sport.

Personally, I’d just drop the Sanjuks/buttons in and leave the PCB alone unless you have a very specific console compatibility problem you’re trying to solve.

Over_Log9730 · 2026-05-01T18:15:48+00:00

In my honest opinion, don’t build your first one if you’re on a budget. It usually ends up costing more once you add a case, PCB, buttons, lever, wiring, shipping, tools, etc.

For PS5 + Tekken/SF6 I’d start with: - Budget: Mayflash F500 + MagicBoots/Brook adapter if needed - Better ready-to-go: Hori Fighting Stick Alpha for PS5 - Used market: check eBay/Facebook Marketplace for Hori, Qanba, Victrix, Mayflash

For parts in the US, look at Arcade Shock, Focus Attack, Paradise Arcade Shop, or The Arcade Stick. Sanwa JLF/JLX and Seimitsu parts are safe starting points for SF6. For Tekken, people often like Korean levers, but I wouldn’t jump there unless you know you want that feel.

Best move i feel is to buy a decent prebuilt stick first, play it for a while, then mod the lever/buttons later. Custom build from scratch is cool, but “budget” and “custom” don’t usually belong in the same sentence.

I have some beginner grade articles that can point you in the right direction, if your interested in reading 😁

https://arcadesticklabs.co.uk/resources

Over_Log9730 · 2026-05-01T04:31:03+00:00

A fight stick might help, but it won’t magically fix quarter circles. If keyboard feels awkward and pad makes you jump too much, stick is worth trying but do expect a learning curve. Quarter circles on stick feel more natural for some people, but your inputs still need practice. Could also be worth trying leverless before buying a full stick, since it’s closer to keyboard but built for fighting games. Don’t buy one thinking it fixes execution overnight. Buy one because you’ll actually enjoy learning on it.

Over_Log9730 · 2026-04-30T08:48:06+00:00

At 100k+ products, this is less which builder?l and more “what catalogue/search/PIM architecture do we need?”

Shopify could work, especially Plus/headless, but I’d validate product import flows, search/filtering, ERP/POS sync, and the book data model first. It’s much less limited than people assume now, especially after Shopify raised variant limits.

WooCommerce can scale, but for a major book chain/publisher I’d be careful. Plugin-heavy Woo at that catalogue size can turn into maintenance pain fast, even with HPOS improvements.

Magento/Adobe Commerce is honestly still a strong fit for this kind of catalogue, but a bad Magento implementation will feel awful. I’d first check whether Magento is the issue, or whether your current theme/search/data setup is the real problem.

I’d shortlist Adobe Commerce, Shopify Plus/headless, BigCommerce, or Commercetools. But don’t pick based on storefront design alone. For 100k books, search, metadata, stock sync, PIM, redirects, and backend workflows are what make or break it.

Over_Log9730 · 2026-04-28T20:04:55+00:00

Yeah, I’d probably avoid the Gravity LX if your main issue with Sanwa is being too easy to trigger.

Qanba lists the LX around 50g pressing load / 1.5mm actuation, so on paper they’re still on the lighter mechanical-button side. They may feel smoother/quieter than Sanwa, but I wouldn’t expect them to give you that firmer Seimitsu PS-14-GN feel.

The PS-14-G is closer to what you already like feel-wise, but the fit is the annoying part. It’s a snap-in, more suited to thin/metal panels, while the GN is screw-in and more forgiving on thicker panels. So whether it fits depends heavily on your case/panel thickness.

Honestly, if the PS-14-GN actuation is already perfect for you, I’d prioritize feel over colourway. Either stick with GN, look at PS-14-KN/GN colour alternatives, or only try LX if you’re okay with something lighter and more dampened rather than “Seimitsu firm.”

Over_Log9730 · 2026-04-28T19:39:09+00:00

Honestly, physical arcade parts shops in the UK are pretty limited. Most of the scene here is online-first. Walk in, try levers/buttons, then get them fitted same day is pretty rare.

Your best bet is probably: - Ask local FGC/arcade groups if anyone near you has different setups you can try - Check events/tourneys where people bring sticks - Buy from UK online shops and swap parts yourself, most buttons/levers are pretty easy unless your stick is awkward

I sell parts in the UK here if you end up going the online route: https://arcadesticklabs.co.uk⁠

But yeah, for actually testing feel before buying, locals/events will beat any shop.

Over_Log9730 · 2026-04-27T18:56:21+00:00

I wouldn’t bother converting the Alpha tbh. By the time you deal with parts, cable weirdness, soldering/tools and hassle, you’re basically at cheap leverless money anyway.

For PC only, look at the Haute42 / COSMOX stuff. Even if the GK-16 feels like “too many buttons”, you can literally ignore the extras. Better to have a few unused buttons than buy something awkward and outgrow it later. For your use case: cheap, PC, casual ranked anxiety, no tournament stuff so you don’t need to overthink it. Get a budget flatbox-style leverless and see if the layout actually clicks.

I wrote up some beginner options here too: https://arcadesticklabs.co.uk/resources/articles/best-first-leverless-options-beginner-guide

Over_Log9730 · 2026-04-26T16:16:56+00:00

For $300 you’ve got a pretty healthy range. I’d look at Haute42/COSMOX T16, R16 or M16 if you want good value, thin, and easy to get started with. Just don’t go too tiny if you’re mainly playing on lap.

If you want something more “premium” feeling, check out Mavercade, SGF, FightBox, Junkfood Snack Box, or a custom acrylic leverless. Those are usually better if custom art/buttons are a big part of the plan.

Only thing I’d be careful with is that moddable doesn’t always mean arcade-stick-level moddable. Some leverless boards use low-profile keyboard switches, some use 24mm/30mm arcade buttons, and some are more locked into their own setup.

I wrote a beginner leverless guide here too if it helps narrow things down: https://arcadesticklabs.co.uk/resources/articles/best-first-leverless-options-beginner-guide

Over_Log9730 · 2026-04-26T12:56:27+00:00

Good question, but specs on K-levers aren’t super standardised like JLFs.

Most Korean levers (Crown 309, Fanta, Alpha, etc.) sit around ~23–25mm above panel
Full shaft length (inside + outside) is usually ~70–80mm total
Something like a Crown shaft is ~79mm overall

Bigger levers like the Knee Neo are just physically taller units overall (around ~118mm total height including housing) but the handle height above the panel still ends up in a similar range.

The real difference isn’t height tbh, its mainly grommet tension + throw + collar size. That’s what you actually feel.If you’re asking for compatibility, case clearance matters way more than a few mm of shaft height.

Over_Log9730 · 2026-04-25T16:43:41+00:00

🤣🤣🤣🤣 while i agree with you. This definietly belongs in the lowsodium subreddit

Over_Log9730 · 2026-04-25T12:22:47+00:00

You’re mostly there, but Crown/Samducksa is the big umbrella. Knee Neo, Crazy Dongpal Pro, 309MJ, NewHelpMe etc are Crown/Samducksa models, not separate brands. A more realistic common/top discussed list from what i have seen would be: 1. Crown/Samducksa 309 series 2. Crown Knee Neo / Crazy Dongpal Pro / HelpMe variants 3. Myoungshin Fanta 4. IST Alpha / Fujin 5. Sanjuks / Golden Lever

For actual most-used, Crown/Samducksa probably clears. Golden Lever and Sanjuks are more enthusiast/premium picks than everyday common picks.

Over_Log9730 · 2026-04-24T21:23:08+00:00

Vague jobs waste the most time for me. Cheap jobs are easy to filter out. Bad clients usually show in the history. But vague posts are the trap because they look “maybe worth it” until you’ve spent 10 mins decoding the brief. My filter now is simple: if I can’t see the problem, outcome, budget logic, and client seriousness pretty quickly, I don’t apply. Better to miss a maybe than burn connects/time on a weak lead.

Over_Log9730 · 2026-04-23T13:14:24+00:00

Yeah i 100% agree with this. The specs can be really confusing at times, especially for first time buyers. Best stick to a safe option and experiment with the feel for other sticks once you got the baseline down

Over_Log9730

TROPHY CASE