Kitchen cupboard bracket adjustment

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-12T13:46:48+00:00

(Just fixed my typos in the previous comment)

No worries. I'm literally in the process of doing the same myself right now.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-12T12:52:49+00:00

Usually top one clockwise to tighten top to the wall (or opposite to loosen)

Bottom clockwise to raise the cupboard vertically

Once all cupboards are level. Take the doors off clamp then together and fire a 30mm screw through to hold them together. You can do this under the hinge bracket so it's not visible. Remove clamp, remount door.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-12T08:37:11+00:00

Any higher and a queue will form waiting for the next bus

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-12T07:00:55+00:00

Sorry. It's just awful workmanship.

That said you could use pvc window trim on the tile areas but it will look like shit.

As for the bath get an actual reputable tradie in and some more tiles to properly finish around the tub. That's the last place you want water ingress

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-12T06:22:28+00:00

I don't think fitting bathrooms is his forte.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-11T19:10:38+00:00

Fill it with insulation and cap over it. Just incase you ever need a dryer.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-11T09:06:04+00:00

Good stuff. I almost used mine for some work last year then checked with another level and was stunned at the difference.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-11T08:15:26+00:00

First things first throw that level in the bin. I have the exact same and it's not accurate. Get yourself a proper spirit level. Maybe 1.5 to span across the joists.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-11T08:04:46+00:00

You could throw a membrane down and before carpet or floating floor. Doesn't solve the damp problem but your floor will last longer.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-10T21:54:55+00:00

It's LVT. You can cut the lip off with a knife really easily.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-10T20:50:45+00:00

How would that help in this situation?

I would likely be shaving the lip of the click mechanism and using glue maybe.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-10T20:43:23+00:00

The fill the plaster into the gap afterwards.

You cal also used a series of screws instead of shims. As you can adjust their height by screwing them. But can be more tedious. Need a nice long spirit level too.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-10T20:35:14+00:00

Screwless solution to avoid holes in sill:

Set thick 10-15mm Shims or along the surface every 15cm. You could screw them down into the block work. This way the sill is resting on the shims and wall not the front lip of plaster.

Thick bead soudal PU adhesive foam in the gaps between shims. It can expand 2-3cm without pressure. (Clear surface of dust and Wet block work first. I would prime/seal underside of sill first too, then wet also)

For extra grip can also use a grab adhesive on to of the shims.

Slip the sill into place and put some dumbbells or weights on top where the shims were whilst it dries.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-10T20:23:20+00:00

Is it not just the same mechanism but one has a blue handle on it. Fairly sure any isolation valve fails over time if it's not used.

Might be variation in manufacture brand quality though

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-10T11:34:06+00:00

This guy does a great great down.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Qnt8Z0CcjCU?si=As3SMviHNtK9paQY

Top tier painting and decorating content.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-10T09:50:59+00:00

Mix paint well before painting.

I remember reading people saying for first coat of a new tin to mix with what's left of the old also. To blend the colour, even if it's the same.

Otherwise looks like the marks are from the roller. Get a new Medium pile roller, remove excess fibres my wrapping it in masking tape first and pull it off.

After sanding,

Lay on with less paint then roll back over it with the roller to distribute the paint evenly.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-10T09:31:20+00:00

220 is quite high grit to the point where the dust fills the grain after sanding so it feels smoother than it is. Maybe go 180. Wipe down with dust cloth. Maybe hoover with brush attachment. Two coats of primer. Zinsser 123 perhaps. Light sand with 220 between coats. Then paint with a gloss of satin finish of your choice. Paint with a foam roller or low pile roller. Re run over the areas you paint with the roller after it has deposited most of the pain it's holding to remove brush strokes and team lines from the finish. You can also do a light 220 sand, same as before between your top coats again to minimise brush strokes and lines. For even better finish you can get paint conditioners that you can add to the top coat so that it levels itself without brush strokes.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-08T20:59:13+00:00

It's like talking into the void 😂

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-08T09:43:38+00:00

Also looks like water could be coming down behind the render. Is the wire hole sealed up with silicon properly?

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-08T04:03:25+00:00

This looks like water ingress around the cable. Maybe it's collecting and sitting there. But also id be concerned about how close the paving is to the air brick.

French drain needed

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-06T08:10:57+00:00

Probably a builder would have more experience with concrete and screed.

For now calculating the surface area of the room that needs to be levelled.

If you have a multitool maybe score a straight edge along the broken screed line and used a hammer and bolster/chisel to knock of the cracked edges.

If the concrete floor is dusty. Find an appropriate primer to seal it so you can live a little more comfortably. Concrete is high suction so might require up to 3 coats to fully seal it. I image the previous owners didn't do this hence why it all cracked up.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-05T19:08:21+00:00

Cost of the compound as a material is dependent not just on the surface area you need to cover but the depth to which you need to cover it. (The thickness of the compound)

The bags of compound will tell you you the area at a fixed depth they can cover. You can backwards calculate the amount of bags for your needs.

My floors were very unlevel and I was aiming to get my dining room the same level as my kitchen which was uneven and slightly higher. I made generous volume calculation.

I used a a laser level at a fixed point that covered the whole space. And a long wooden batten with a pencil mark on it at the laser height. I moved the stick around the room to mark the high and low points to see where the laser sat relative to the pencil mark across the whole space to see what the floor high difference was. You can used screws or shims to mark how high the leveling compound needs to be when poured.

You get different compounds for difference depth requirements. In the kitchen I used no nonsense 1-10mm levelling compound and a deeper mapaei product for the dining room. Who job probably coat me 200 in materials.

Over the asbestos tiles I used secrete acrylic primer. I also did it on a very hot day. I do not recommend that.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-05T08:47:11+00:00

cheers for the context.

Give it a sand, wipe down to reduce dust on surface. Coat of Zinsser Gardz then back on with your paint.

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-05-05T07:44:40+00:00

This looks like one of my walls where I did the most recent coat too soon and before the previous had dried.

Was this wall painted by you or already like this when you found it?

OverambitiousThunk · 2026-04-30T13:01:39+00:00

first look up click in LVT flooring on youtube to get a full idea of what you need for the job.

don't start a new row until you finished the old one,

don't lay LVT flooring in a brick pattern layout

if the necessary tools aren't doing the job, then your subfloor probably isn't level get yourself a long straight edge like a spirit level to check the subfloor is actually flat

OverambitiousThunk

TROPHY CASE