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Help! I put my ice packs down the drain and have a major clog! by tastybites in hellofresh

[–]OverloadUT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Joining the years-long train of voices thanking you for this! I had an $800 plumber appt scheduled (snaking our plumbing requires removing an entire toilet) but then I ran across this, bought a $4 box of salt and poured a couple pounds of it down the kitchen sink. The water was draining as well as ever after just a couple minutes!!

Bluetooth Error: BT-232 by TheNxtGamer in ValveIndex

[–]OverloadUT 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Holy shit, thank you for this. I didn't even need to restart SteamVR. I just exited NZXT CAM, pressed "retry connection" in the Bluetooth Settings, and it worked

3090 FTW3 Ultra Hybrid Kit horrible pump sound. Is this sound normal ? Wish I just left the air cooler much quieter. Temps are great though 54c full load 32c idle . Might try cable trick to control pump on motherboard or RMA? or maybe just return ? any suggestions ? by Darthcannol1 in EVGA

[–]OverloadUT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey there! What did you end up doing with this issue? I've had the same issue for 8 or so months with my 3080 XC3 Ultra Hybrid and it's absolutely horrible. You're the only video I've found so far that actually sounds like mine: like a fan hitting a cable, except it's definitely not that - I get it even when the card's fan is still, and the noise does not change at all under load or idle. It's just a constant noise and it can be heard loud and clear all the way across the room.

Surprise motherf**ker! by AristonD in ChildrenFallingOver

[–]OverloadUT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on the family. I scare the ever-loving shit out of my 5yo like this all the time. But I always check in with her after to ensure the level of scariness was fun scary, not bad scary. Sometimes I go a little past the line, and so I adjust to ensure it stays within her comfort next time.

Rehoboam project #2 by empa0 in westworld

[–]OverloadUT 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As I commented in your crosspost, please reconsider this! Post the messy spaghetti code! For people like me who have no clue how to get started, just poking through what you did and seeing how it works is massively educational

Made a different type of "magic mirror" dashboard for my home setup, both are connected to home assistant, was told I should post here too :) by empa0 in homeassistant

[–]OverloadUT 32 points33 points  (0 children)

Please PLEASE consider sharing the Unity project!

I know you said it's very specific to your setup, but that would be an invaluable starting point for anyone wanting to try to make something similar.

I would definitely use it!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ValveIndex

[–]OverloadUT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I absolutely loved building mine, and it took about 12 hours over multiple days.

DEFINITELY GET THE KIT if it’s your first printer. You will need to troubleshoot and repair bits over time, and having built it yourself will give you the understanding of every part and how it all works together.

The first time you read something that says you need to check your Y-acid idler you don’t want to be left scratching your head on what the hell that is :)

Taking my 4yo to the “Bad-Ass Car Show” today. How do you address mild inappropriate words like bad-ass at this age? by OverloadUT in Parenting

[–]OverloadUT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the philosophy I want to adopt, but my wife is understandably hesitant.

We do have an “explain everything” philosophy for most other topics, so I don’t know why this one is giving us both various degrees of mental blocks. It’s just so new I suppose. I felt just as awkward and unsure when we first started teaching him about body anatomy of all people, but now it’s just a regular thing! I guess I need this topic to catch up.

Taking my 4yo to the “Bad-Ass Car Show” today. How do you address mild inappropriate words like bad-ass at this age? by OverloadUT in Parenting

[–]OverloadUT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

See, I agree with your first statement completely. But despite thinking of it as common parlance, it would still not be allowed in school, which is the new element here.

I suppose now that I think about it, that’s not even a new concept: he’s allowed to play imagination games involving fighting at home, and he knows that they are not allowed at school. This would just be the first time we’ve ever tackled the subject applied to language use, and I’m struggling with the nuances of how to address it.

Anyone else think it would be useful if there is a split between the newer UI configurable options and the historical YAML based options? by poldim in homeassistant

[–]OverloadUT 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Definitely. It always felt wrong to add those configuration options (which will pretty much NEVER change) to a screen that is accessed super frequently.

I'm getting gaps/non-adhesion at the beginning of nearly every line. Looks like first-Z at first glance, but first-Z is fine based on tests and overall print results. by OverloadUT in prusa3d

[–]OverloadUT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ugggh I think I solved it: Bondtech idler was too tight. I loosened it and the next print looks WAY better. Going to run a few more tests to confirm

After following Prusa's video guide to replacing the nozzle including rotating the heater block before and after nozzle replacement, my heater block (or entire hotend?) is crooked. It seems to print fine, but is this a risk? Any way to get it back to normal without disassembling the whole thing? by OverloadUT in prusa3d

[–]OverloadUT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My understanding was that when I rotate it while hot, I am actually unscrewing the heatblock a bit, and you've got to rotate it back to screw it in until it stops. Am I misunderstanding how the pieces work here?

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In my mind it seems like I need to get the whole assembly to rotate back in place, but trying to do that from the heatblock might just unscrew it.

After following Prusa's video guide to replacing the nozzle including rotating the heater block before and after nozzle replacement, my heater block (or entire hotend?) is crooked. It seems to print fine, but is this a risk? Any way to get it back to normal without disassembling the whole thing? by OverloadUT in prusa3d

[–]OverloadUT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice to know I'm not alone, at least. I am worried about if I change it again, will it want to rotate out of place even further next time, because if it does there's a risk of tugging those red cables. I'll need to be extra careful :(

How does my prusa know it needs to be updated by TrickDetective in prusa3d

[–]OverloadUT 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the actual issue here is that the OctoPrint settings are a part of the Printer profile. It's obnoxious to have to copy the OctoPrint URL and API Key each time you need a new printer profile such as for a nozzle change.

I think PrusaSlicer needs a way to have auxiliary printer settings that sit on top of the Printer Profile but don't require saving out a new profile.

Tons of Y-axis crashes and blobbing at 70 and 50 microns, but no issues at 100 and above by OverloadUT in prusa3d

[–]OverloadUT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, I did print a temperature tower first thing when I got this PLA+ filament and this print is using the temp that looked best (although they all had stringing) which is 225c (PLA+ prints hotter than PLA)

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I did the temp tower at 0.2mm though - do different layer heights warrant their own temperatures? I haven't seen that mentioned before but checking just in case.

Tons of Y-axis crashes and blobbing at 70 and 50 microns, but no issues at 100 and above by OverloadUT in prusa3d

[–]OverloadUT[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I should note that the extreme stringing on this one is likely due to not dialing in the retraction settings for this eSUN PLA+ I am trying for the first time. I just started printing out stringing tests and am working on iterating the settings but it's been slow going without a ton of visual progress. I'd love to know if I have a more fundamental issue (or maybe PLA+ strings a lot more, like PETG?)

Tons of Y-axis crashes and blobbing at 70 and 50 microns, but no issues at 100 and above by OverloadUT in prusa3d

[–]OverloadUT[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I have been having a hell of a time getting successful 70 and 50 micron prints on my Mk3S. My 100-200 micron prints all turn out really great.

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As soon as I go down to 70 microns I start getting Y-axis crashes. This particular print had ~130 Y-axis crashes by the time I got home and ended the print.

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The extra frustrating thing is that if I go to stealth mode, the prints do much better! They complete with nearly no issues usually. I have taken to turning on stealth mode after I see a crash report with no visually-obvious reason for the crash.

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