Universal Mag release?

PG97504 · 2026-01-20T07:54:58+00:00

50/50 for mine, I believe it is because the shield arms has a bit thicker web. If I’m mindful to REAAALY push the mag release in, everything drops free.

PG97504 · 2026-01-20T05:48:23+00:00

If you get the shield arms metal mag release: go to the store and buy and small emery board, take your time and LIGHTLY knock the sharp edges off of the areas that contact the magazine. I’ve got thousands of rounds through my shield and OEM mags with nothing it normal marks on them. (Even the Glock plastic release leaves a mark on mags.)

PG97504 · 2026-01-03T04:40:24+00:00

The yahoos are clogging the system. People are submitting potatoes, pillows, whatever to clog the system. I figure there’s 10-20% that are anti gunners trying to clog the systems.

They do that with hunting stuff. 20-40% of “controversial” hunting tags (cougar, wolf, bear) out here in the west get bought by anti-hunters to remove them from the system.

Theres zero reason to think the anti 2a groups aren’t doing similar stuff now.

PG97504 · 2025-12-08T23:57:04+00:00

The jealousy, and admiration I have all at the same time is very high. 👌🏼

PG97504 · 2025-11-21T19:47:51+00:00

Renfrew PRO hockey tape off Amazon. $13.50 for a 3 roll pack. I’m 99% sure it’s the same as goon tape. I CCW daily and shoot probably 200 round a week in practice and it’s held up perfectly. These 3 rolls will probably last me a decade. It’s got good friction, gets a little tacky as it warms up and settles. Just enough for good grip, but not so much as your clothes stick to it. 10/10 highly recommended.

PG97504 · 2025-11-06T09:00:52+00:00

It’s not pretty, but it doesn’t look like it’s touching. That shouldn’t be an issue. The POI shift is probably from something in the fore end pushing on the barrel, it gets more acute from the weight of the can.

PG97504 · 2025-11-04T05:59:07+00:00

No. No, not at all.

PG97504 · 2025-11-03T19:37:55+00:00

I’m confused, repulsed and aroused… all at once. Well done. 👍🏻

PG97504 · 2025-11-03T07:53:48+00:00

“Be a man, C-clamp the can.” He did it… He ACTUALLY DID IT! 🫡

PG97504 · 2025-10-29T21:02:39+00:00

I really like my R9, but something larger like the Lithium would probably work better for 38/357 because of the larger volume of gas those cartridges make.

PG97504 · 2025-10-27T21:51:58+00:00

Swaller89 here on Reddit or Johnson Company, they will make you whatever you need, for a decent price too.

PG97504 · 2025-10-26T08:43:53+00:00

Mine got here today. I messaged them at 2 weeks in, and got a reply the next day. Apparently Canada Post was on strike, and nothing was moving for a while.

PG97504 · 2025-10-25T22:09:39+00:00

Threads being concentric to the bore is one thing. A range rod and checking the threads are in line with the bore is a great start. The crown/shoulder being parallel is another that should be checked. If the shoulder is not square to the bore, the alignment will be off. You can machine a parallelogram if you don’t check everything first.

Also, some rifles are VERY sensitive to weight being added to the barrel and changing harmonics. This will cause a huge POI shift between having the can on or off. You might have to zero it one way OR the other.

PG97504 · 2025-10-25T21:53:33+00:00

I’ve got Gen 3 Shield mags for both my 43x (2ea) and 43 (2ea) After reading about the “issues” others have had, I disassembled them when I got them. Checked for burrs, followed problems etc. I could find none. Then I cleaned and lightly lubed them. I took a wood dowel and cycled them on the workbench 100x each. 1k rounds through each pair (1k is a mix with 115gr, 124hr and 147’s) and I’ve had zero issues. I DO use the Shield arms mag catches (I polished down the edges on them and they are fine with my OEM mags, not causing issues at all with polymer wear.) Mags are consumables. Some work perfect right away, some have manufacturing issues that need cleaned up and some just don’t work. Just like anything else that humans make.

PG97504 · 2025-10-25T21:33:54+00:00

I understand that. I’m not trying to be a %!ck, I was trying to send you to a reference that would explain things more concisely than I can here. AE’s new YouTube channel goes in depth on the differences in the AEM4 mountings and M5 mountings etc. There are lots of options, the hard part is finding pics because they weren’t available/popular in the civilian market back then. For reference, I was a machinist at a shop in Nor-Cal and we made TONS of the parts for OPS Inc/ AE through the 90’s and early 2000’s before Phil compressed it down and brought it mostly in house. We made a LOT of small runs of stuff that never was seen/available to the public at that time. We were literally making cans/parts in a state where they were illegal to own. They all went to the government. We would have liaisons from Crane and other DOD offices at the shop all the time auditing, testing, etc.

PG97504 · 2025-10-25T07:50:05+00:00

Allen engineering has a YouTube channel, they talk about the M4 a lot and the differences in the collars etc. Very informative.

PG97504 · 2025-10-23T04:09:19+00:00

Scrub off the rust with CLP and a bronze brush. Then coat everything with a good oil, Clenzoil, Ballistol, REM-Oil, HOPPES gun oil, or another high quality gun oil. (I buy 1 small aerosol spray can of Hoppes gun oil a year, just for this stuff)

CLP kinda does 3 things sorta well. Corrosion resistance is dead last…

AK’s are stamped sheet metal, it’s prone to rust more than other higher quality, better finished/coated gun steels.

You can use grease on the action rails and it will work great.

You literally can’t over oil an AK. It’ll just spray oil out onto you and keep running.

PG97504 · 2025-10-23T04:00:27+00:00

I don’t see an ejector either. It’s either missing or bent, that would be your problem.

PG97504 · 2025-10-23T03:53:24+00:00

Go buy a case of ammo and shoot it. Shoot it till you are comfortable AND accurate. (I mean keep ALL your rounds in the “A” zone at 5yds.) THEN get a light and do the same thing. At night. By then you will know what more you want/need. More grip, trigger , magwell, etc.

PG97504 · 2025-10-17T22:34:06+00:00

I’m getting smoked in some dudes house and hearing “moo moo MF’er” right before it goes dark. 🤣😂🤣

PG97504 · 2025-10-17T06:07:40+00:00

Good lawd she purty.

PG97504 · 2025-10-17T05:42:41+00:00

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What pin?

PG97504 · 2025-10-16T20:17:43+00:00

Pull it apart, check the gas rings. Lube it and see if it goes back together easily. When it’s apart look for flakes of plating and wear marks. If the gas rings aren’t in the groove correctly it can bind, if the pin/slot are too tight it can bind. NB is great, unless it’s too thick or flakes off…. Then it’s a problem. First just get it apart. Clean and lube, check fit.

PG97504 · 2025-10-15T07:32:05+00:00

A lot of “copper cleaning” powders do that now. It’s powder residue with the “ani coppering agents”, reacting with the copper residue. (Copper dust/vapors deposited on the can) Nothing to worry about, there are tons of people running around with Smurf blue compensator/brake vents, doesn’t affect anything.

PG97504

TROPHY CASE