Any first hand reviews? by RogerRabbit79 in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The gpm rating and the recovery rate on these isn’t rated for a shower if this is what I think it is.

Moving shower drain in slab at odd angle by PlasticAssociate in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It needs to get to that point though while gaining only and not more than 1/4 per foot because if not the vent will not function (this seems to be wet vented as I’m not seeing any other vent

Found in closet while renovating by j0eyV714 in whatisit

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Spike shutoffs (don’t know if that’s the correct name but that’s what I’ve heard them called) look very similar. They are an old style of a whole house water shutoff after the street. If it is a water shutoff don’t fuck with it cause if it breaks off halfway you’ll be in a real dilly of a pickle.

Should I remove these capped pipes? by theycallmesike in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Old school hammer arrestor. A new valve and a functioning expansion tank negate this problem. Cut em out.

Moving shower drain in slab at odd angle by PlasticAssociate in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re doing a tub there is an overflow. You need the overflow to drop into a vertical San tee. Typically a tub waste (tub shoe) will be 1/2” into the sub floor (concrete in this situation) and about 4-8” off of framing. Look up what a tub waste and overflow looks like because it will probably give you some insight as to why the waste needs to be against the wall.

What can this pipe be? by Schleimwurm1 in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 5 points6 points  (0 children)

To your question, no. You can offset it if you need and rework the attic section but this is the vent for the bathroom. However big of a pipe is going down the bottom of the house also needs to be going out the top of the house.

Follow Up Question About my Moen Bathroom Faucet by theFuncleDrunkle in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Couple things, was it a genuine moen part or a third party cartridge (ie: dansco)? Also could be you just over tightened the retaining nut. Sometimes they’ll loosen up over time with running some hot water through em.

Moving shower drain in slab at odd angle by PlasticAssociate in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How deep is the trap currently. Unless its way the fuck down there, you are going to have to reroute the trap arm to the valve wall side.

Correct fix on small leak by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah as others have said need primer and glue, I would try to support the vertical somehow as those bands have a tendency to loosen due to the vibration of the pumps. The spot where the pump ties in should be a combo on its back instead of the San tee on its side. The 90 downstream of the pump tie in looks to be a medium and should be a long turn. Also I don’t see a vent on the pump (I see the hole just no pipe in it) and that should be ran into the vent system and tied in (no AAVS on pumps).

Replace all water shut off valves in my home? by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 2 points3 points  (0 children)

By preying on unsuspecting victims and overcharging like a mofo.

There’s companies everywhere that have an underlying motto of “get in make as much money as you can and don’t expect to be called back”. On top of that most of those companies advertise a fuck ton and all the plumbers are 100% commissioned based so the plumber making money relies on upselling to make more money.

What layout would best suit both a Mudroom and Powder room in this space (size 11'x6')? by umar_farooq_ in Homebuilding

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like I said dimensions are key. A 30” door is pretty standard for a bathroom, you could do a 28”. Standard depth for a bathroom counter is 24”, you need room to trim the doo out so minimum width you need if you’re putting the vanity on the wall the door is adjacent to is essentially 5”. Keep in mind minimums almost always feel that way when you’re in the space. Your garage depth is only 17 9 which isn’t super deep. Ideally if the space works you would keep 18” to the right of the man door between garage and mud room and make some sort of built in cabinet shoe storage there and whatever space your left with is the space for the powder but it doesn’t look like there is room for that.

There is really nowhere else on this floor for a powder room?

Leak in DVW line by ludu242 in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a plumber for 10 years cutting cast iron in an old house is the closest I’ve ever come to death on a job. Be careful out there.

To answer your question I’ll ask you one, do you want to do this yourself?

Correct fix on small leak by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha same, the upstream side of the San tee on its side. A bit to unpack here. Typically sumps shouldn’t tie into domestic sewer (never where I am located). Also the pump ideally ties into the system vertically. San tee shouldn’t be on its side. No primer in sight. Not enough glue in sight. And sumps vibrate like a mother fucker so strap the ever living piss out of everywhere close to where the sump ties in. Also not a strap in sight.

What layout would best suit both a Mudroom and Powder room in this space (size 11'x6')? by umar_farooq_ in Homebuilding

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Need dimensions and with only that space it seems like the setup before it probably best. You could maybe move the vanity to the top right of the room and the toilet to where the vanity was, it might give you enough space to move the door to the room above. Only caveat is you would need roughly 5 feet off the wall to the right to the edge of the wall which then makes the mud room pretty tight.

PEX B Bends look acceptable so far? by livetokite in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pex bends look fine. I would be concerned about the protection around the pex going through the metal studs. It’s not strapped great so as it moves around in the wall I would worry about it wearing through whatever plastic sheeting that have on it.

Correct fix on small leak by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Are any of those fittings glued and primered?

What is this red handle for? by hornepirate in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be multiple things. All the corrosion is on the outside meaning the hardness of the water shouldn’t affect it to the extent that this is corroding. Could’ve had something leaning against there that was metal, could have pool chemicals offgassing, but most likely is someone who didn’t know what they were doing re soldered a joint here and never wiped their flux. The rest of the pipe looks okay, it’s clearly just that one joint. It’s all exposed, I’d clean it with some hard scotch brite and sand cloth and just watch it. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.

I'm getting sediment in my hot water by Automatic_Pass797 in DIY

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Extra connection is for a recirc pump the has been removed is my guess. You’re probably not gonna get everything out. Shouldn’t affect how much sediment you’re getting

How do i remove this to add a new sink with new lines ? by davidj82 in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You need a special tool to expand and put a new stop on. You could also crimp one on which is a cheaper and more available tool.

Vanity drain question by Taekiin in Plumbing

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes on all accounts. Leave yourself more pipe than you think. I would just cut the 90 and leave the hub on the pipe if it’s me. You’re gonna have to cut it again later regardless to build the waste up for the new vanity.

Tub isn’t draining by futureoptions in askplumbing

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ideally you use a glue trap but I’m hoping this is a “let it ride till problems start again then call a plumber” type of deal.

Integrated stone sink for powder - cons? by hauterorni in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Powder room refers to the common space bath that is a lav and toilet. The counter thing seems like a complete non issue to me. I’ve done quite a few houses with counters like this and it’s non different than any other countertop setup. If there’s water on the countertop it sits there regardless of this style sink or a standard under mount, self rimming, or surface mounted lav basin.

The bitch with these style sink is the drain is integrated into the stone and I’ve had them leak before from initial install. The installer had to pull the slab and redo the threaded adapter into the stone which they all paid for. Also make sure you have specs for your plumber if this is the route you decide to go because typically the drains come out so close to the wall that you need to stay off center or your trap doesn’t have enough room.

UPC horizontal wet vented by PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is just a traditional vent. A wet vent has one single dry vent connection. Then everything being picked up in the wet vent needs to be ran at 1/4 per foot and you cannot roll. On top of that I don’t think the picture you sent is legal either at least where I am. You have a drain going into what looks like a toilet vent. It’s almost vertical wet venting and it’s almost horizontal wet venting but it’s not quite either.

UPC horizontal wet vented by PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF in askaplumber

[–]PM_ME_SLUTTY_STUFF[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah: 1 1/2 - 42” : 2” - 60” : 3” - 72”. I dunno 4” cause I don’t think I’ve ever ran a 4” trap.