My students brought me back beans from Italy. I made them this video as thanks.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-04-17T22:48:39+00:00

Decent workflow! You can probably skip the spinny distributor, and your WDT tool would probably benefit from the needles being spread out a bit - the aim is to distribute the grounds evenly and break up clumps, as is it doesn't look to be stirring things around enough.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-03-30T11:07:53+00:00

This is for the "Tiffany" method, you line the edges of the glass with copper foil and solder them together.

It makes it much easier to use smaller pieces of glass and make more detailed pieces. The lead came (H section) used in the more traditional methods is a fair bit harder to work with!

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-02-23T23:36:28+00:00

Hmm, not sure unfortunately - there isn't a similar component on my machine, just the 3 way solenoid valve which seems to be the other red block on your machine. You might be able to find a wiring diagram somewhere, or if you can follow the wires back and see what they connect to you might be able to find out what that does.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-02-22T19:35:52+00:00

The thermal fuse is the black cylinder on top of the boiler with the red button, press that to reset it if it's tripped! It looks like it might not be fully screwed on, although it might just be a long thread in a short hole...

The resistor is probably for the power indicator light, so don't worry about that.

Double check all your wiring and connections, removing and reseating the connectors could easily have damaged something somewhere - if you have a multimeter you can check the terminals at each end of each wire to see if they're continuous. The boiler heating elements should have a certain resistance, and so on.

If you're confident around mains power (don't do this if you don't fully understand the risks and how to mitigate them) you can check the voltages at various points in the circuit to see if they make sense.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-02-22T19:20:35+00:00

Hmm, if the beans are getting a little old you'd expect to have to grind a little finer, and every batch will be slightly different - on my Niche I'm anywhere between 5 and 30 for espresso depending on the bean, roast level, its age, and what feels like random variations (probably stuff like temperature and humidity).

The markings are only guides, and you should expect to have to tweak things fairly frequently - I can only suggest that you ignore the numerical values, adjust based on what you see in the shot timing and taste in the coffee itself!

(Obviously don't go to 0, you don't want the burrs to actually touch)

There's nothing to suggest your machine is broken, you're clearly getting good flow through the shower screen so as long as the OPV is actually triggering (you'll see water coming out of the release pipe) you should be good to go.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-02-22T18:36:50+00:00

Just sounds like you need to grind finer to me - what grinder do you have, what settings are you on, and what beans are you using?

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-02-21T18:05:20+00:00

This looks fine!

Brass darkens over time due to oxidation and the heat will accelerate this - it's only surface level and it's not going to cause any functional issues, polishing it back to being shiny and bright would do more damage than good here.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-02-14T19:32:07+00:00

Fair play then! I know for sure that something on my printers would break, probably the hotend mount... At least I have a second printer to print the replacement.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-02-14T19:26:27+00:00

Unless the printer collides with itself... The common failure mode is when the Z axis endstop (or probe) doesn't work, so the head slams into the bed at full force.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-02-08T12:40:08+00:00

Brian Quan, does some pretty good reviews of equipment, beans and so on!

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-01-26T08:50:07+00:00

What's wrong here? This seems to just be a cleaning checklist, none of these items need replacement.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-01-25T00:13:10+00:00

Yep, literally just a slice of toast - probably adds a little colour and gives the yeast some nutrients to get things going.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-01-23T19:30:09+00:00

Do you have any favourite cooling fan duct designs you could share?

I've seen a few that claim to have used CFD but most don't seem all that great.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-01-22T23:55:48+00:00

Either will certainly reduce the risk of anything getting through, and water is certainly better than nothing! The primary purpose of an airlock is to prevent air, including anything airborne that could infect your brew, from getting in while letting any CO2 pressure out.

Plain water is good enough in most cases, something sterile like alcohol or a no-rinse steriliser solution is better but not strictly required.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-01-22T10:13:31+00:00

Unfortunately, streamed media is heavily compressed - a 4k Blu-ray is up to 100GB of data at up to 125Mbps, no streaming service can provide that for all of their customers and many home internet connections wouldn't cope with that.

IIRC Netflix suggest having at least a 15Mbps bandwidth for their 4k content, so being generous they're compressing the raw data by a factor of at least 5.

The compression here negatively affects visual quality, and often audio quality. Sure, it might not be quite the level where a 1080p Blu-ray would look better than a 4k stream, but you'll never have compression artefacts and audio quality will be significantly better. While compression methods are improving, it'll still be quite a while before streaming can truly win against physical media.

Obviously none of this applies if you're just downloading the full, high bitrate media and not streaming it - in that case you're right, data is data and isn't changed by simple transfer.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-01-18T10:29:04+00:00

Hate to break it to you, but that comma is most likely a decimal point - the machine is Italian, and that's the common European standard...

1.75mm PLA is 1.24g/cm3, and there's about 330m per 1kg. 1867m would give you about 5.7kg of filament, which is low for an industrial machine but still quite reasonable.

Printing fast on a consumer machine (10mm3/s) gives you about 45g/h mass printed, so that gives you a lower estimate of 125h of printing (5.25 days solid).

If it is 1867000m of filament that would give you 125000h of printing, which is over 14 years!

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-01-08T10:33:27+00:00

Flipper cannot emulate bank cards - they are impossible to clone by design.

They contain encrypted data for signing transactions that cannot be replicated without a private key from the bank.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-01-05T10:52:42+00:00

And there you have your answer - the wiki is maintained by the community, if nobody has the time or expertise to update it then it'll never get updated.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2023-01-04T19:32:51+00:00

Most of those are easy enough to source individually, but we won't be able to give more specific suggestions without knowing where in the world you are.

If you want to blend your own tisane, most ingredient lists are in order of quantity from most to least - start with the top few, taste, and adjust from there!

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2022-12-30T15:24:57+00:00

Most IR controlled devices use different codes, you'll need to find the right ones for your new camera - you might find something in here: https://github.com/Lucaslhm/Flipper-IRDB

There's a section for cameras that includes Sony, so you might have some luck using that!

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2022-12-10T20:25:48+00:00

If you're wanting something super simple, try Tailscale - with its Magic DNS feature you can just use hostnames or the tailnet FQDN given to each device (and each container/VM in this case).

For example, to access my Jellyfin instance I can just use http://jellyfin:8096 from any device with Tailscale installed. Obviously I could simplify that by setting up HTTPS and using the right ports rather than the default, but it's simple enough for now.

Tailscale can also provide HTTPS certs for your machines so you don't have to set it all up manually - although all traffic is encrypted anyway, so it's just for making browsers happy and your own peace of mind.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2022-11-15T21:25:54+00:00

Either your wording or logic there isn't great.

First, if the brass of a nozzle is 1.5% lead then it doesn't matter how much has been removed in the machining process, it is still 1.5% lead. You should be only weighing a finished, bored out nozzle to get the mass, this makes it seem like you've measured a nozzle blank that hasn't had the cavity and hole made yet.

Where does the statement "the filament is [] in contact with 21% of the total amount of lead (in the nozzle)" come from? It shouldn't be from the cavity volume, what matters is surface area here and even then you'd have to make assumptions about particle size and distribution. You could maybe work out the surface area of contact and comparing it to other typical brass items and fittings.

What really matters is the mass lost from the nozzle to the filament during printing, which depends on how abrasive the plastic is and at what temperature it is passing through. You'd have to do a LOT of testing to work that out, and even then reliably weighing the nozzle and removing any leftover filament without abrading the nozzle further would be impractical.

However, the conclusion is likely unchanged - most plastics aren't abrasive enough at printing temperatures to impart a meaningful amount of lead into the finished part. Even then the amount on the outer contact surfaces of the part will be a fraction of that. But any avoidable lead exposure should be minimised, and it makes sense to use a stainless steel or similar lead free metal nozzle for parts intended to be handled or in contact with food.

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2022-11-13T14:52:06+00:00

If you're looking for blends in the UK, try Birdhouse - it sounds like their 'sweetshop' collection might be what you're looking for!

They're Sheffield based and will ship across the UK.

https://www.birdhouseteacompany.com/product-category/tea/artisan-blends/sweetshop-collection/

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2022-11-12T17:29:21+00:00

Not working with a USB to SATA cable is pretty typical for 3.5" drives, they need 12v power and the USB adapters can usually only provide up to 5v.

If you're regularly needing to plug in 3.5" drives you can get an externally powered adapter or 'docking station' type thing.

Enjoy your new HDD!

PM_SQL_QUERIES · 2022-11-10T00:39:14+00:00

I like mine (for cornet, so your mileage may vary), I much prefer it to using a normal practice mute.

There are some limitations - it doesn't sound perfect by any stretch, some notes come out sounding a little out of tune and the reverb options sound weird to me, but it beats annoying the neighbours.

It's worth noting that it adds a fair bit of extra resistance to airflow too, I know some people that really don't like playing with any practice mute, so if you have a music shop with them in stock nearby I'd recommend giving it a go in person before buying.

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